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Help, my car is continually throwing 'P2400' code
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07-25-2014, 01:24 PM | #24 |
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I'll have to get back under there and check it out. So pissed that I most likely spent unnecessary money on the pump. Also going to have Autozone check my codes and see if they match up or differ from what I get from my Torque app.
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07-29-2014, 02:09 PM | #25 |
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Dude at Autozone got the same code on his reader as I did, P2400. Checking in with a local indy shop (Banchwerks in Providence,RI) to see if they have the capability of performing a smoke test.
Also, going to check the wiring, as vapore0n suggests. In the meantime, I had sent an email to my SA at BMW of Warwick (Lauren, who is super helpful and rocks), asking about the code and whether or not she had any feedback (also asked about the injectors and whether or not there was a related recall, as I had read something similar in another thread) and this was her response: BMW doesn’t use “P” codes, so unfortunately I can’t cross reference that code number with the BMW fault codes that specify bulletins. The bulletin/recall for the injectors was released because the faulty injectors throw a check engine light due to misfire faults, it doesn’t specify that DMTL faults would be stored for the faulty injectors. Your car doesn’t have any open/pending recalls at the moment, and doesn’t actually fall into the production date for that recall, so it wouldn’t qualify for that repair. I can’t find any recalls pertaining to the evaporative system or DMTL system. I’m kind of at a loss. I guess if we had it here, we’d be checking all the connections and lines to make sure they’re all plugged in and connected. Maybe you’ve got a bad connection somewhere, or maybe you’ve got a legitimate leak somewhere? Smoke testing it will (hopefully/usually) show a leak. I’d check for rodent damage too….those suckers love to make nests on top of the gas tank (underneath the rear seat bottom) and love to chew wires…. Hope this helps, let me know how you make out.
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08-28-2014, 07:36 PM | #26 |
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I have the same code on my 335i. I removed the pump. All the connections looked good. No rubbed thru wires or cuts. The pump can not be taken apart. Someone on here said they removed theirs and opened it up and lubed it. Definetly not possible. Mines a 2007 and his is a 2006. So maybe thats why.
Immgoing to order a new bosch pump off ebay soon. Its about $70 shipped so not too bad. I just hope its the pump and not something else. |
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08-29-2014, 10:59 AM | #27 | |
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09-07-2014, 06:34 PM | #28 | |
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09-08-2014, 08:08 AM | #29 | |
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The cable going to the pump has 2-3 cables on it. Only one of mine was damaged. I just cut the affected areas. Solder them back together, electrical tape the cable and then wrap some more to protect the whole area against water. I also used a plastic cable protector (those things to keep cables neat and together) to protect the cables from rubbing themselves off again. The cable to the pump is just too short to be re-routed to prevent this problem. On my first picture, right above the red arrow, you can see the cable that goes to the pump, and where it got rubbed off. |
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09-08-2014, 10:14 AM | #30 | |
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Hoping the wire is the culprit. The carbon canister intake seemed pretty clean to me when I replaced the pump, so I think (ahem, hope) I'm good there. I'll keep you posted on how I make out. Just so I'm clear, repairing the wire and cleaning the canister intake addressed the SES light and code for you?
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09-08-2014, 10:18 AM | #31 | |
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I did replace the pump, since I had already bought it. But nothing would have worked if I hadn't fixed the cable going to it. After fixing it, I cleared the code before turning the car on (crank). Code hasnt come back ever since. |
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09-08-2014, 10:19 AM | #32 |
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Awesome. Yeah my pump is brand new, too. Hopefully this takes Care of it.
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09-11-2014, 11:24 AM | #33 |
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Monday night (yes, night), I got around to taking a closer look at the wires, as suggested by vapore0n. With my rejection sticker 60 day grace period about to expire, I couldn't afford to wait until the following day.
Excuse the crappy nightime, iPhone photos: Knowing I simply need a quick, temp fix (to get my sticker), I separated all the wires and cut out the bad section of the wire in question. Then stripped a small amount of good wire for each half: After twisting the wires together, I wrapped all the wires up in electric tape and zip tied them to the brake sensor wire to keep them from moving around in the interim: After driving to/from work on Tuesday and then putting another 40+ miles on the car on Wednesday, I kept checking for codes and the readiness of the cats/O2 sensor/evap system with my Torque app. No codes were thrown and no SES light, so I swung by the shop on my drive home yesterday afternoon and it passed. No more rejection sticker. Only drawback was that I ended up having to pay another $35 for the inspection, as my 60 day window had passed. By 60 days, I just assumed having had the first inspection on July 11th, I would have til Sept 11 to get a reinspection for free. But I forgot about the two 31 month days so the 60 day period actually ended Monday, I believe. Oh well, I got my sticker and all is good. Now, gotta have my buddy solder that wire for a permanent fix and then I'll tape them all up nice and securely and probably put something else around the wires in order to prevent them from ever getting frayed again. Still not sure what causes the fraying in the first place, but my goal is to never have it happen again. At least I know my DMTL pump will be good to go for probably the life of this car.
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10-23-2014, 09:45 AM | #34 |
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In case anyone was wondering, still no codes or SES light since addressing the wire. So that was clearly the culprit. A few weeks ago, as mentioned, a buddy of mine soldered the wire and we put some heat shrink tubing around the wire for extra protection. With all that, and a healthy layer of electrical tape, I don't see this issue ever rearing its head again.
On that note, anyone need a user but working DMTL pump?
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10-23-2014, 10:24 AM | #35 |
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Same here. Code hasnt come back in all these months.
The dealer was going to charge me $600 to fix the P2400. Something I fixed for free (minus the cost of the pump, which wasn't really needed) Given how multiple cars have come out with this problem (cable getting rubbed out), I would suggest everyone to take a look at behind the wheel, see if the cable is prone to getting rubbed out, and proactively fix it by protecting it. |
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10-23-2014, 10:56 AM | #37 | ||
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I'd still check the wires, just to be safe.
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10-29-2014, 10:33 PM | #38 |
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Wow - thank god I finally found this writeup guys. I have been hunting around with little luck till a few minutes ago. I'm pulling a 2402 evap signal high. Will be pulling the rear wheel off tomorrow night to check out the wires and see if it sorts me out. Appreciate the solid details and discussion.
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10-30-2014, 08:14 AM | #39 | |
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Good luck and keep us posted!
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10-30-2014, 11:32 AM | #41 | |
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In all seriousness, good luck and keep us posted.
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11-03-2014, 07:55 AM | #42 |
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2402 Evap Code
Pulled the pump and checked out all he wiring this weekend and no visible damage. Ordered up the replacement pump which was surprisingly reasonable... Will post something when I get it replaced to see if that sorts out life...
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11-03-2014, 08:44 AM | #43 |
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Another reason why I was't too upset at needlessly replacing the pump..it was fairly affordable. Hope that solves your issue.
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code, leak, p2400, pump, ses |
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