[j1gilles]

Originally Posted by cleex024

i dont see how you think its cheaper to replace plugs for $60 when its free to check the mosfets...plus i can pull out my ecu faster than you can pull plugs =).

ive already got the ecu out and it took me less than 3 minutes lol...ive done it a lot.

What is your build date? The mosfet issue only occurs with MSD80's as far as I know

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by j1gilles

What is your build date? The mosfet issue only occurs with MSD80's as far as I know

02/08 build so im not sure...hopefully it is just a mosfet issue.

so i tested all of the mosfets with a harbor freight multimeter on omega 200k setting and i put the negative on the back long strip of metal and the postive on the right side of the 3 strips coming out of the other end. i get a reading with all of them except injector 1...however none of them get a reading on the left strip that comes out of the mosfet.

i saw the video of a guy testing the mosfets and he gets a reading putting the negative and postive wires on any combination on the mosfet so im confused as to why i only get a reading with the negative on the backside with the positive touching the strips coming out the other end.

sorry i know its kind of confusing but i dont have too much time to take a picture and show you what i did so hopefully someone understands what im talking about and can comment...otherwise ill explain and take some pictures later of what im talking about.

Thanks for the help guys.

[j1gilles]

Originally Posted by cleex024

02/08 build so im not sure...hopefully it is just a mosfet issue.

so i tested all of the mosfets with a harbor freight multimeter on omega 200k setting and i put the negative on the back long strip of metal and the postive on the right side of the 3 strips coming out of the other end. i get a reading with all of them except injector 1...however none of them get a reading on the left strip that comes out of the mosfet.

i saw the video of a guy testing the mosfets and he gets a reading putting the negative and postive wires on any combination on the mosfet so im confused as to why i only get a reading with the negative on the backside with the positive touching the strips coming out the other end.

sorry i know its kind of confusing but i dont have too much time to take a picture and show you what i did so hopefully someone understands what im talking about and can comment...otherwise ill explain and take some pictures later of what im talking about.

Thanks for the help guys.

What does the label say on your ECU case?

[Focus]

Originally Posted by cleex024

02/08 build so im not sure...hopefully it is just a mosfet issue.

so i tested all of the mosfets with a harbor freight multimeter on omega 200k setting and i put the negative on the back long strip of metal and the postive on the right side of the 3 strips coming out of the other end. i get a reading with all of them except injector 1...however none of them get a reading on the left strip that comes out of the mosfet.

i saw the video of a guy testing the mosfets and he gets a reading putting the negative and postive wires on any combination on the mosfet so im confused as to why i only get a reading with the negative on the backside with the positive touching the strips coming out the other end.

sorry i know its kind of confusing but i dont have too much time to take a picture and show you what i did so hopefully someone understands what im talking about and can comment...otherwise ill explain and take some pictures later of what im talking about.

Thanks for the help guys.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=986168


Good luck sir.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by j1gilles

What does the label say on your ECU case?

well shit...it says msd80 lol...so is this going to keep happening even after i replace the mosfets?

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Focus

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=986168


Good luck sir.

sweet man...glad things worked out for you. so all you used was a hot air gun and not a hot air soldering gun? cause i do have a hot air gun but it would just end up blowing way too much hot air everywhere.

could you show me which mosfets you bought from digikey and which solder paste you used? i looked on youtube and seems like they used some paste where you put anyway you like and once melted it would just go right to the metal...very cool video lol.

still wonder if there would be any further issues down the road once replaced...you think the mosfets were bad/weak mosfets or is it something wrong with the dme itself...if thats the case i might just replace the dme altogether if its going to happen every so often.

[j1gilles]

Originally Posted by cleex024

well shit...it says msd80 lol...so is this going to keep happening even after i replace the mosfets?

Good! Now this thread all makes sense... So know you know you are probably on the right track. It may happen again but out of the 3 I have repaired none have reoccurred. After you get it all back together make sure you check those coils out... I tend to replace the bank of coils that correspond to the mosfets that are blown.

[V8bait]

30BA or 30BB when accompanied by misfire and O2 codes are usually the injector mosfets on MSD80 cars. Just replaced mine about a week ago, I did all 6. There was a recall due to a faulty batch of Mosfets for cars manufactured for a few month stent in late 2007, but they faulty mosfets most likely made their way into some early 2008 cars with the MSD80 as well. They are easy to test, just check for continuity in a few places, a couple will be different and those are the bad ones, but it's in your best interest to replace them all.

I also did plugs/coils at the same time when I was waiting on the hot air soldering station to arrive. It was actually a lot easier of a job than I expected. I was able to reuse the solder already on the board after desoldering the old chips, I only added solder to two of them.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by V8bait

30BA or 30BB when accompanied by misfire and O2 codes are usually the injector mosfets on MSD80 cars. Just replaced mine about a week ago, I did all 6. There was a recall due to a faulty batch of Mosfets for cars manufactured for a few month stent in late 2007, but they faulty mosfets most likely made their way into some early 2008 cars with the MSD80 as well. They are easy to test, just check for continuity in a few places, a couple will be different and those are the bad ones, but it's in your best interest to replace them all.

I also did plugs/coils at the same time when I was waiting on the hot air soldering station to arrive. It was actually a lot easier of a job than I expected. I was able to reuse the solder already on the board after desoldering the old chips, I only added solder to two of them.

So what solder did you use? The paste where you can just smear it all over where you going to hot air and it melts to the points you want?

[tjobeid]

no use actual solder wire from like radio shack and after you take off the old chips put some solder and melt it in to there old place, Than use the hot air gun to let it melt and place the new chips on them like the originals ones. Be careful with the heat gun let the surface area cool down after doing each one and cover up everything you are not changing with foil .

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by cleex024

well wow that sounds terrible...ive seen the post before but didnt think it would ever happen to me lol. does it happen to a lot of people?

Happens to a lot of manual '07s, didn't think it would ever happen to me either and boom! You may also need to replace that bank's plugs and/or injectors if they shorted.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Happens to a lot of manual '07s, didn't think it would ever happen to me either and boom! You may also need to replace that bank's plugs and/or injectors if they shorted.

did you fix the issue then check the injectors? i talked with a guy today that says i should probably check to see if anything else is shorted first because if they are then it might short the board again.

anyway how did you get it fixed?

[Jklad]

Well, I kind of damaged the Ecu trying to replace the mosfet. So I got hosed at the dealer for 6 new plugs, coils, and injectors, and a new dme. The dealer procedure is to first replace all injectors, then all cp/plugs, then finally dme.

Here, folks do the opposite - replace the dme, then replace any other parts that are damaged.

Ideally you may want to replace all plugs and coils in the bank that went bad, and possibly injectors.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Well, I kind of damaged the Ecu trying to replace the mosfet. So I got hosed at the dealer for 6 new plugs, coils, and injectors, and a new dme. The dealer procedure is to first replace all injectors, then all cp/plugs, then finally dme.

Here, folks do the opposite - replace the dme, then replace any other parts that are damaged.

Ideally you may want to replace all plugs and coils in the bank that went bad, and possibly injectors.

well i just ordered the mosfets and going to buy a butane heat gun from home depot...hopefully that works.

[AWTT335i]

Originally Posted by cleex024

well i just ordered the mosfets and going to buy a butane heat gun from home depot...hopefully that works.

I wouldn't go anywhere near a PCB with a butane heat gun, are you crazy? That's going to be a $2k mistake.

Buy a real rework station, I got mine off amazon (looks just like V8bait's) for around 70-80 bucks and it lets you set both the temperature and speed of the air blowing out.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by AWTT335i

I wouldn't go anywhere near a PCB with a butane heat gun, are you crazy? That's going to be a $2k mistake.

Buy a real rework station, I got mine off amazon (looks just like V8bait's) for around 70-80 bucks and it lets you set both the temperature and speed of the air blowing out.

Lol it's not the fire that hits the board lol...it's only heated that way...but anyway I'll test it on other throw away computer boards and if it works well then I do it lol.

By the way it is a butane solder/hot air gun

[Deep_Blue]

This exact thing happened to me last year.

How many miles are on your car? Since the DME is part of the emissions system, dealers have to warranty them to 80K by law.

My car was just a couple thousand miles over 80K. I got BMW to goodwill warranty me a brand new DME if i bought a new set of injectors and three new coil packs. It was still pricey, but the free DME made it much more palatable.

[V8bait]

No way in hell I was taking my weekend to return the car to stock, wait for an opening for service, wait for parts if they weren't in stock, and possibly pay the dealer (vs diy) for injectors/coils/plugs when all I needed was an $80 soldering rework station, $10 of mosfets, $15 of radio shack goodies, and a few beers.

And then another weekend putting mods back on.

I can make use of the heat gun and soldering station anyway for bs stuff and the next time my phones screen breaks, so all is well that ends well. Good luck OP.

[AWTT335i]

Originally Posted by V8bait

No way in hell I was taking my weekend to return the car to stock, wait for an opening for service, wait for parts if they weren't in stock, and possibly pay the dealer (vs diy) for injectors/coils/plugs when all I needed was an $80 soldering rework station, $10 of mosfets, $15 of radio shack goodies, and a few beers.

And then another weekend putting mods back on.

I can make use of the heat gun and soldering station anyway for bs stuff and the next time my phones screen breaks, so all is well that ends well. Good luck OP.

Lol, exactly my rationale.

[cleex024]

thanks everyone for the help...just finished and as long as you know how to solder its pretty easy. i had a little trouble with the soldering because didnt realize i needed to use flux...for those of you that know what flux is its a paste to basically make your solder stick to metal. i didnt know this and i tried reusing the solder that was already on here but wouldnt stick to save my life. so added a little flux and bam...sticks like a champ.

oh and by the way some people say they did it with 300-350F...well i needed more like 450F...and i blasted it for i would say a good 30 minutes removing and soldering the mosfets back on and i did not have a problem. also i did it multiple times without putting any kind of aluminum or heat sheild and didnt put a scratch on the board...for those of you that are worried about hurting your board...i dont think its possible with 450F...the boards are made of fiberglass. now i will say the only problem you could run into by putting that much heat for that long is that other parts my heat up and you might move them accidentally.

lastly always check your readings after you are done...my very last time i soldered everything back together i didnt have enough flux and solder on my injector 1 mosfet leg...it wasnt connected by like 1/4mm...almost impossible to see but there wasnt a connection there and i got misfires...took it all apart and found that one mosfet to be loose and soldered it back together and everything runs fine.

i did 6 pulls to about 100 in 3rd and 4th and no hiccups at all...anyone who has this problem its a pretty simple diy and im more than willing to help anyone thats local to me...im in nova now so hit me up if you need help.

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by cleex024

thanks everyone for the help...just finished and as long as you know how to solder its pretty easy. i had a little trouble with the soldering because didnt realize i needed to use flux...for those of you that know what flux is its a paste to basically make your solder stick to metal. i didnt know this and i tried reusing the solder that was already on here but wouldnt stick to save my life. so added a little flux and bam...sticks like a champ.

oh and by the way some people say they did it with 300-350F...well i needed more like 450F...and i blasted it for i would say a good 30 minutes removing and soldering the mosfets back on and i did not have a problem. also i did it multiple times without putting any kind of aluminum or heat sheild and didnt put a scratch on the board...for those of you that are worried about hurting your board...i dont think its possible with 450F...the boards are made of fiberglass. now i will say the only problem you could run into by putting that much heat for that long is that other parts my heat up and you might move them accidentally.

lastly always check your readings after you are done...my very last time i soldered everything back together i didnt have enough flux and solder on my injector 1 mosfet leg...it wasnt connected by like 1/4mm...almost impossible to see but there wasnt a connection there and i got misfires...took it all apart and found that one mosfet to be loose and soldered it back together and everything runs fine.

i did 6 pulls to about 100 in 3rd and 4th and no hiccups at all...anyone who has this problem its a pretty simple diy and im more than willing to help anyone thats local to me...im in nova now so hit me up if you need help.

Really happy you solved your issues man, good job.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

Really happy you solved your issues man, good job.

glad i did too...because it took me like 2 resolderings to get it right...each time seemed like i kept missing something but the final time i took my multimeter and tested everything 3 times before i put it back in lol...even though it only takes me like 3 minutes to pull everything apart