[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Manny_World

Can someone make a sticky or chart for how to log, what everything stand for or mean, and what exactly you should be looking for? This would be great for noobs to logging like myself.

there is, rader1 just updated it before he got banned. there is a more current one somewhere else, but I can't post cause I am already partially banned. LOL

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

[EJ_3]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

there is, rader1 just updated it before he got banned. there is a more current one somewhere else, but I can't post cause I am already partially banned. LOL

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

[I3ossman]

Originally Posted by Fully_Bolted

No, expect 430 at the most. No offense to I3ossman, but his tuner is pumping out some outrageous numbers. I suspect that his dyno reads about 20whp more than a typical dynojet, which already read high as-is.

Originally Posted by Ænema

+1

It's not necessarily what numbers you make but what the gains are and how the car feels. Just my personal opinion but you shouldn't shooting for the moon on a stock car + e85. There is a reason bolt-ons are known as "supporting mods."

Originally Posted by enrita

+ 100, you need to be realistic...

It's a dynapack, the one that bolts directly to the hubs. They're actually extremely accurate dynos. The guy that tuned my car is just that good, it's not his dyno trust me. If any of you would like to speak to him and get an idea of his experience and knowledge with these cars(actually all cars) PM me and ill get you contact info. His 93 map got 425whp and 475 tq out of a FBO 135, no meth.

As far as how it feels, it's a monster and drives perfectly.. and ran a 9.3 60-130 with both of us and his comp in the car, after being on the dyno all day, and starting exactly from 60mph rather than the proper method from 40mph. There was too much traffic behind me to slow down enough 8.8-8.9s with just me and starting from 40. Its real guys

I'm not sure what we're arguing about here but I agree, supporting mods are 100% important and required. I was just making a point that e85/protune is by far the best bang for the buck mod you can do for these cars 100% without a doubt. These platforms are extremely potent and can produce amazing power with just e85, DCI, and protune. Would I recommend doing just a protune and no supporting mods and driving a bone stock car into the ground every day, NO. I still have to put the FMIC, charge pipe/bov and get a dual oil cooler kit on my car to get anywhere near its true potential, then we will put it back on the dyno and adjust accordingly.

[VNeBLOB42]

^^
From what I understand Dynapack's read slightly lower than DynoJets. Coming from a reputable member on here.

I just reached 415 on a DynoJet (S1+ E50) (CF STD), and feel that can even improve, granted the run itself didn't reach WOT till 4800, timing and boost didn't max out. And of course I didn't have PTF push the limits. I say there were another 10 -15 ponies I could have shown with my current set up.

So is it possible to read 430 with a Tune E50 335i with just DCI on a DynoJet? If you had the proper cooling (radiator and IC) during the Dyno and use Standard Correction Factor, perhaps. But I wouldn't consider it to be highly accurate. Between my Dyno Dynamics (CF SAE) and DynoJet (CF STD) I had nearly 50 whp difference. Same mods similar climate different Dyno's.

[Carl Morris]

I wanted to mention that I've also been pushing the car hard on stock hardware and E85:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748583

While I'm looking forward to getting the Helix FMIC installed, I think running hard for short bursts on stock hardware is fine. Not that many of us go out and run road courses or just full throttle for more than 10 seconds very often.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Carl Morris

I wanted to mention that I've also been pushing the car hard on stock hardware and E85:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748583

While I'm looking forward to getting the Helix FMIC installed, I think running hard for short bursts on stock hardware is fine. Not that many of us go out and run road courses or just full throttle for more than 10 seconds very often.

Nice,

we use a Very similar Dyno. well same name anyway.

[BMJ]

V4 maps

quick one for you all, for some reason my car is not in agreement with ST, the main thing is the delivery and gear changes. This on happens on the ST maps (doesn’t matter which one) occasionally. When going from about 70km to 50km the car changes gear with a rev trust, no jerk or roughness you see the rev serges a little into gear you can just feel it. On the LT maps never happens. also going up a slight hill at lowish speeds does the same thing.

any toughts?

[shaginwagon13]

Just wondering if someone could help me out with a couple questions. What is the difference between 'LT' and 'ST'? What is the difference between 'Drive' and 'Sport'?

Stage 0 - Stock Map

Stage 1 LT Aggressive
Stage 1 ST Aggressive

Stage 1 LT Drive
Stage 1 ST Drive

Stage 1 LT Sport
Stage 1 ST Sport

[Pseudo Nim]

LT = linear throttle
ST = stock throttle

I don't know the exact throttle curve, but the essential idea is whereas with LT you would press the pedal 20% and get 20% of throttle (think regular linear function), with ST it's curved towards the beginning (think a logarithmic curve). This is for cases where you want to have more predictable throttle control.

Sport is a little bit more aggressive than Drive, but marginally so.

[shaginwagon13]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

LT = linear throttle
ST = stock throttle

I don't know the exact throttle curve, but the essential idea is whereas with LT you would press the pedal 20% and get 20% of throttle (think regular linear function), with ST it's curved towards the beginning (think a logarithmic curve). This is for cases where you want to have more predictable throttle control.

Sport is a little bit more aggressive than Drive, but marginally so.

Thanks for the fast reply I appreciate it. I am waiting for new spark plugs to arrive this week so I can change them out because I got a misfire on the aggressive map last week. I changed to map 0 (stock) and tonight I was kind of bored and was going to try SPORT which is a little less than AGGRESSIVE but then I noticed the DRIVE option as well as was a little confused. Thanks for clarifying.

[Pseudo Nim]

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

Thanks for the fast reply I appreciate it. I am waiting for new spark plugs to arrive this week so I can change them out because I got a misfire on the aggressive map last week. I changed to map 0 (stock) and tonight I was kind of bored and was going to try SPORT which is a little less than AGGRESSIVE but then I noticed the DRIVE option as well as was a little confused. Thanks for clarifying.

Np. I think there's a bit too many options to be fair. It should be "stock", "some power", and "burn rubber" as far as I'm concerned.

[shaginwagon13]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

Np. I think there's a bit too many options to be fair. It should be "stock", "some power", and "burn rubber" as far as I'm concerned.

haha Agreed. I just got the COBB last week so I am still getting used to what everything means and how to work the unit. I drove around tonight with the 'Live Monitor' setting on the PSI of my turbos that was pretty neat lol


How can I find out what PSI Aggressive, Sport and Drive will be running at? Like I said I misfired last week on Aggressive so until the replacement spark plugs come in I can be running the boost set to the aggressive map.

[Pseudo Nim]

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

haha Agreed. I just got the COBB last week so I am still getting used to what everything means and how to work the unit. I drove around tonight with the 'Live Monitor' setting on the PSI of my turbos that was pretty neat lol


How can I find out what PSI Aggressive, Sport and Drive will be running at? Like I said I misfired last week on Aggressive so until the replacement spark plugs come in I can be running the boost set to the aggressive map.

Just do a few 3rd gear pulls at WOT and data log. Nothing bad will happen, and you'll know what psi you're running.

[shaginwagon13]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

Just do a few 3rd gear pulls at WOT and data log. Nothing bad will happen, and you'll know what psi you're running.

Should I go to all the way to Redline?

[Pseudo Nim]

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

Should I go to all the way to Redline?

You don't have to as long as you max out the boost. Generally you should be hitting max boost around ... ugh, I can't think off hand, but probably before 6,000 rpm if memory serves.

[shaginwagon13]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

You don't have to as long as you max out the boost. Generally you should be hitting max boost around ... ugh, I can't think off hand, but probably before 6,000 rpm if memory serves.

Perfect... again thanks for your help and fast replies. I am sure I will have more questions over the next couple of days so I will post them lol

[Pseudo Nim]

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

Perfect... again thanks for your help and fast replies. I am sure I will have more questions over the next couple of days so I will post them lol

np, enjoy the drugs.......er....... i mean the newfound power. lol.

[shaginwagon13]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

np, enjoy the drugs.......er....... i mean the newfound power. lol.

haha

[R3dnax]

After i installed the COBB i got the engine light in my dashboard and when i read the codes with the COBB it says ECU - P2A18. I have tried to clear it and it pops right back up, also reset the learning abilities but it did not help either. any suggestions? anyone know what this is?

[enrita]

Originally Posted by R3dnax

After i installed the COBB i got the engine light in my dashboard and when i read the codes with the COBB it says ECU - P2A18. I have tried to clear it and it pops right back up, also reset the learning abilities but it did not help either. any suggestions? anyone know what this is?

you can search for codes in the forum. you can select by post , this is what i found with a search
2A18:
2A18 DMTL diagnosis module tank leakage, heating: input signal

The 2A18 code is due your car not having the same emissions control systems as a USDM car. Is it causing a engine light on the dash?
Are you using latest firmware and maps?
Basically is emissions related to shouldnt affect anything.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

Should I go to all the way to Redline?

I go to 6400 rpm. here is a good read by rader1

I send this out quite a bit because its great read and it helps a lot of people who are just beginning to log with COBB. It should be a sticky, but I don't think it will happen.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

You don't have to as long as you max out the boost. Generally you should be hitting max boost around ... ugh, I can't think off hand, but probably before 6,000 rpm if memory serves.

If you are WOT on OTS, you should hit max boost (mid range) around 4k and it tapers down ~11 psi to redline. That how my boosts read anyway (AT). Depending on Sport or Aggressive your average peak numbers will vary.
S1 Sport +-14 ~ 11
S1 Agg +-15 ~ 11
S1+ Agg +-18 ~ 11

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

LT = linear throttle
ST = stock throttle

I don't know the exact throttle curve, but the essential idea is whereas with LT you would press the pedal 20% and get 20% of throttle (think regular linear function), with ST it's curved towards the beginning (think a logarithmic curve). This is for cases where you want to have more predictable throttle control.

Sport is a little bit more aggressive than Drive, but marginally so.

+1

ST you will feel with little ped pos. you get accelerated power

I use ST with OTS MAPs, On my Pro E-Tune I am using a Custom LT. There was too much power for me just on cruz mode with using a ST approach.