[Lindgren87]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Sadly, there’s no update. Car is on the lift and the parts are here. I’ve been busy with the fam and this weekend we’re going out of town.

I also had to replace tires on the X5, installed rear camber arms and had it aligned. That ate into my car repair time.

It’ll get done soon. Sorry for the delay!

Ofc, gotta take care of the familie as well
Do you have a Dyno from before dismantling the engine ?
If no other upgrades has been carried out, it would be great to see the influence of the cam itself on the engine

[Viktorfrank]

I've just started taking my 330d apart. I'm going to change the timing chain, bigger intercooler, hybrid turbo and colt cams. Do you have any tips or tricks to make it less painful?

[335dsleeper]

I do have a recent dyno. I “think” the car was making a bit more power right before I took it apart though. We’ll be able to see power increase but it won’t be apples to apples.

Originally Posted by Lindgren87

Ofc, gotta take care of the familie as well
Do you have a Dyno from before dismantling the engine ?
If no other upgrades has been carried out, it would be great to see the influence of the cam itself on the engine

[Lindgren87]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I do have a recent dyno. I “think” the car was making a bit more power right before I took it apart though. We’ll be able to see power increase but it won’t be apples to apples.

Sounds great
Do you have a deadline for when you expect to have the car re-assembled again ?


// Steven, Denmark.

[335dsleeper]

I don’t have a deadline. I really need to get it done though.

Originally Posted by Lindgren87

Sounds great
Do you have a deadline for when you expect to have the car re-assembled again ?


// Steven, Denmark.

[Lindgren87]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I don’t have a deadline. I really need to get it done though.

Tell me about it.
I took my license plates of a few months ago to get the project going - still havent popped the hood

[335dsleeper]

Yea, tell me about it. Making some headway this weekend. I'll update tomorrow night.

Originally Posted by Lindgren87

Tell me about it.
I took my license plates of a few months ago to get the project going - still havent popped the hood

[335dsleeper]

The car is running... finally.

All new chains, tensioner, guides etc. car feels pretty incredible.

Unfortunately, I incorrectly installed the crank seal in the timing cover prior to mounting the timing cover on the engine. So, it’s leaking from the front seal.

It’ll be an easy fix once I’m able.

[Lindgren87]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

The car is running... finally.

All new chains, tensioner, guides etc. car feels pretty incredible.

Unfortunately, I incorrectly installed the crank seal in the timing cover prior to mounting the timing cover on the engine. So, it’s leaking from the front seal.

It’ll be an easy fix once I’m able.

Sweet, con'grats with the "finished project"

I will look forward to a (hopefully) dyno graph - mostly the torque figures to see if the camshaft have influence on the volumetric efficiency on stock cylinder head.

Usually the volumetric efficiency, and subsequently engine output drops rapidly after approx. 3000 RPM +/- on the M57 engines.

Is it a LCI model (286hp stock)?

What's the setup / mods of the engine ?

Thanks in advance.
Steven, Denmark.

[335dsleeper]

I hope to get on the dyno soon. I had back surgery today so, I’ll be a little slow for the next month or two.

It is an LCI but, I think the US model is still 265hp.

I have hybrid turbos, deletes, water injection, valve springs, cams etc.

Originally Posted by Lindgren87

Sweet, con'grats with the "finished project"

I will look forward to a (hopefully) dyno graph - mostly the torque figures to see if the camshaft have influence on the volumetric efficiency on stock cylinder head.

Usually the volumetric efficiency, and subsequently engine output drops rapidly after approx. 3000 RPM +/- on the M57 engines.

Is it a LCI model (286hp stock)?

What's the setup / mods of the engine ?

Thanks in advance.
Steven, Denmark.

[charlie fairmont]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I hope to get on the dyno soon. I had back surgery today so, I’ll be a little slow for the next month or two.

It is an LCI but, I think the US model is still 265hp.

I have hybrid turbos, deletes, water injection, valve springs, cams etc.

Good grief man, back surgery?! And didn't you start this thread with a bum wing? You're an animal. Be careful out there in the shop.

[TheBoar]

Glad to hear the car is running. Take care and rest up. We'll be waiting to hear of the improvements to yourself and the car.

[ASBSECU E93]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I hope to get on the dyno soon. I had back surgery today so, IÂ’ll be a little slow for the next month or two.

It is an LCI but, I think the US model is still 265hp.

I have hybrid turbos, deletes, water injection, valve springs, cams etc.

If you need me to come up and drive the car, you know....for science and stuff....

[Lindgren87]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I hope to get on the dyno soon. I had back surgery today so, I’ll be a little slow for the next month or two.

It is an LCI but, I think the US model is still 265hp.

I have hybrid turbos, deletes, water injection, valve springs, cams etc.

Sorry to hear about the back surgery - hope everything went well and you will be on your feet asap

Ok, didn't know about the US model. my guess is that it's only a software difference between the US & European model?.

Do you have any idea of which high pressure fuel pump that's mounted in your model ?
The LCI models here in Europe is only fitted with the CP3R70 compared to the PRE-LCI with a more powerfull CP3R90.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by Lindgren87

Sorry to hear about the back surgery - hope everything went well and you will be on your feet asap

Ok, didn't know about the US model. my guess is that it's only a software difference between the US & European model?.

Do you have any idea of which high pressure fuel pump that's mounted in your model ?
The LCI models here in Europe is only fitted with the CP3R70 compared to the PRE-LCI with a more powerfull CP3R90.

R70, a bunch here have done an R90 as an "upgrade"

[335dsleeper]

Yea, both elbows, left shoulder and now back.

I won’t be discharged until Thursday or Friday so, won’t be in the garage any time soon. Ha

Originally Posted by charlie fairmont

Good grief man, back surgery?! And didn't you start this thread with a bum wing? You're an animal. Be careful out there in the shop.

[335dsleeper]

Everything went great, thanks.

I run the R90 pump in my car.

Originally Posted by Lindgren87

Sorry to hear about the back surgery - hope everything went well and you will be on your feet asap

Ok, didn't know about the US model. my guess is that it's only a software difference between the US & European model?.

Do you have any idea of which high pressure fuel pump that's mounted in your model ?
The LCI models here in Europe is only fitted with the CP3R70 compared to the PRE-LCI with a more powerfull CP3R90.

[335dsleeper]

Here are a few cell pics.

I ended up replacing the oil pump chain, upper and lower timing chain, tensioners and guides, the 3 cam sprocket bolts, oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket and front seal. I have to redo the front seal and the tool and new seal arrived yesterday.

The plastic guides and plastic tensioner seemed fine. They weren't cracked or brittle. The mechanical tensioner also appears to be fine. The 3 chains were identical in size to the 165k mile chains. So, it does give me a little piece of mind but, I don't think I needed to change the items.

The cam install is straight forward. If you're simply swapping camshafts here are a few steps.

You should use the TDC pin. Not 100% needed but will help. You do not need the cam holder either. Timing is really quite simple.

Once you remove the valve cover, you need to put the engine at TDC in cylinder on on the compression stroke. You can slide the pin in the flywheel or confirm TDC with a punch/rod/dial indicator in cylinder 1 injector bore hole. Once you confirm TDC on the compression stroke you need to pin the mechanical tensioner. You will hold the crank with TDC pin or using another method. Once the crank is locked, you'll need to remove the plug to access the tensioner. You'll see a small bore, this is for the pin required to lock the tensioner. You can turn the exhaust camshaft using the hex portion and it will compress the tensioner enough to secure it with the pin. Once you do that, you can remove the two Allen head pins that hold the upper tensioner and guide in place.

The camshafts gears have timing dots on them. The timing marks need to be inline. Once you confirm TDC, look at the timing mark alignment and the position of cylinder 1 camshaft lobes before removing the timing sprocket and chain.

Remove the timing sprocket and the chain. You will need to turn the engine over to loosen the bottom bolt. Once you remove the bolt, put the engine back at TDC with cylinder 1 on compression stroke. When you remove the sprocket be careful to not let the chain fall into the timing cover. secure with a zip tie or bungee etc.

Loosen camshafts slowly. .5-1 turn per bolt at a time. Be very careful when removing the bolts. It's easy to snap the camshaft if you do not remove the bolts slowly and evenly. Once the cam caps are off, simply pull the camshafts.

Once the cams are removed turn the engine 45* BTDC and install the new camshafts. Slowly tighten the cam caps down while ensuring the timing marks are lined up. .5-1 turn per cap bolt at a time. The torque the cam caps based on BMW torque specs.

Once the cams are in place, put the cylinder 1 back at TDC. Install the cam sprocket and chain. Tighten the 2 of the 3 cam sprocket bolts. Reinstall guide pins and remove the pin from the timing chain tensioner. Re-confirm your timing marks and cam shaft lobes are the correct position. Turn the engine over by hand 2-3 times and reconfirm TDC cylinder 1 on the compression stroke and that your timing marks and cam lobes positions are correct. If everything is correct, install the the final cam sprocket bolt and torque all three to spec.

I hope this helps you guys. It's a pretty easy install. I recommend replacing the valve springs and valve seals while in there.

If you have questions, feel free to PM me.

[335dsleeper]

Quick update.

I was able to swap the crank seal out this afternoon. Once she was running, I took her for a good easy 60-65 mile drive. When I was closer to my house I started laying on it pretty good. I'm very please with the results. The car really feels great. I'll update when I have logs.

[TheBoar]

Thanks for the update. Glad the crank seal went easy for you.

[335dsleeper]

Me too! It’s always easier the 2nd time around.

Originally Posted by TheBoar

Thanks for the update. Glad the crank seal went easy for you.

[Lindgren87]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Chains guides, tensioners and gaskets arrived today. Hoping to get it running soon.

Where did you aquire the parts (homepage) ?
I'm about to do the same operation that you've done here (cams, and when the engine is opened, chains in the same operation)
I can't see if there's any sprokets in between in the package - usually it's a good idea to have sprockets changed together with the chain, if not, the chain will rapidly stretch to the same extend as the previous chain.
Luckily you wrote that the chains were more or less identical in length

Have you noticed any remarkable gain in performance in the upper RPM with the new cams ?

Steven - Denmark.