[McGee]

I didn't do inlets separate so it's tough to gauge the gain from those in particular but I can say with certainty my old tired turbos picked up good power from them. My car went from 410/440 to 462/530 with just the addition of down pipes and inlets and no tuning changes, to 480/550 after minor revisions along with significant drop in wgdc. We all know how big down pipes are on these cars, but they don't pick up near that power on their own. My turbos have 104k on them and have zero issue consistently hitting peak boost of 23lbs and hitting my target curve.

[McGee]

OP to answer your original question, no with those few mods and no ethanol 500bhp or 425rwhp just isn't reasonable. With an ethanol mix and full bolt on's then yes it's very attainable, add inlets and it's all but a sure thing.

And yes if you're doing inlets or down pipes and plan on doing the other at some point you may as well be the bullet and do them together. You have to remove the down pipes in order to install inlets so why save the time?

[savageN54]

If it helps at all, back when I was stock turbo, fbo+inlets running e50 on a stock lpfp, the virtual dyno put me a little over 470 awhp (and auto). I was targeting 22 psi and tapering to 17. My fuel pump was maxed out both hpfp and lpfp and I would peak 25 psi between shifts (probably what killed my turbos). But it's a damn good time, but like everyone else has said, fbo, inlets and a little e85 should net you close. You'll just be making your turbos.

[savageN54]

Also, I am now VTT Stage 2+ on an XI with automatic transmission, running 19 psi (low boost) on only 93 and I'm pegged at 500 awhp with 476 awtq.

[2007BMW335i]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Thanks for all the input. I guess I could throw inlets into the mix but they sound like a major effort to install. And it sounds like it would get me closer to the 500hp@ crank power. So any good recommendations on inlets? To relocate or keep stock location? Sounds like inlets would increase volume flow thereby increasing efficiencies on IC, and turbo and keeping boost on target for longer. Also are there issues with installment im reading nightmare stories where people are having a hard time with holding the inlets inplace and all the re routing of stuff.

Also not sure I understand something. If I don't plan to go with a E-mix why do I need to up upgrade LPFP. I didn't think you would run out of fuel on stock turbos.

So if the norm is 400whp or 460@crank what would this typically equate too at track on street tires for 1/4 mile runs. Is this a mid 12's low 13's or high 11's?

Mid 12's my 12.09 was at 440 whp on E50 with some racing gas mixed in. Ran 12.20 range with 420 whp. 2 wheel drive automatic. I have only been to the track twice with the cars, pretty sure I can drop that 2.03 60 foot time with a higher stall speed at the starting line.

[sduncan219]

Hello, If I am doing FBO's do I require 1 step colder plugs or 2?
Thanks

[335xirookie]

Originally Posted by sduncan219

Hello, If I am doing FBO's do I require 1 step colder plugs or 2?
Thanks

1 step colder will work up to 700+HP then go two step....

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by sduncan219

Hello, If I am doing FBO's do I require 1 step colder plugs or 2?
Thanks

I would keep the OEM 3-prongs for FBO. Colder plugs aren't really necessary/beneficial until you upgrade turbos.

[GEOS07335i]

I dont think I ever responded to my original thread.
Below is my dyno. But if you go down this route you do have to do your maintenance.

Maintenance done prior to any mods: VC Gasket was replaced, OFHG was replaced, a couple of water hoses were swelled up, new solenoids, new plugs one step colder, new coil packs, injector 12 programmed by yours truly, new vacuum lines, new battery. Walnut blast although I didn't really feel a noticeable difference afterword's. I also replaced oil, brake fluid, transfer case fluid, power steering fluid, radiator fluid all with OEM fluids, I did NOT replace transmission fluid.

I went with a package deal from ARM Motor Sports. It was cheap and good quality. Everything fit fine although the fitting on the FMIC was very snug it took me a while to get it to clip in. It was a PITA! I got the 7" FMIC,CP, DP, DCI, I went with an EBAY Tial (Fake) BOV. MHD Stage 2+ tune uploaded from my android phone. I made 377whp so if you take that and multiply by %20 you get 452 power at the crank. So I was off by 48hp. To be honest I was a bit disappointed in the numbers but not in the seat of the pants feel. All that hard work was well worth the effort. It really woke the car up. I should have stipulated at the beginning. 500hp is at the crank.

I also did the Vadar Solutions valve and a new charge pipe. But I dont consider these performance upgrades.

If I did the fuel pump upgrade and did 30% Emix with the MDH E30-Tune I'm almost positive I could hit 500hp at the crank.

I also did the Firmware mod to my auto transmission. This was a great free mod. Made car shift much crisper if that's such a thing.

[Silent9n54]

i cant believe that after all these years you still didnt figure out that you can run e30-e40 mixes on stock lpfp and make 440-460 whp = 500 crank.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by Silent11N54

i cant believe that after all these years you still didnt figure out that you can run e30-e40 mixes on stock lpfp and make 440-460 whp = 500 crank.

I tried it a couple of times and car didn't run right ran like crap so I gave up on it.

[_N54]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

I tried it a couple of times and car didn't run right ran like crap so I gave up on it.

Just get a $200 Walbro drop in fuel pump and run all the E you want

https://burgertuning.com/products/n5...-pump-upgrades

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by _N54

Just get a $200 Walbro drop in fuel pump and run all the E you want

https://burgertuning.com/products/n5...-pump-upgrades

Even with a 535 I don't think you can run Full E without Port Injection.

Most I would do with just a LPFP upgrade would be E50.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

I dont think I ever responded to my original thread.
Below is my dyno. But if you go down this route you do have to do your maintenance.

Maintenance done prior to any mods: VC Gasket was replaced, OFHG was replaced, a couple of water hoses were swelled up, new solenoids, new plugs one step colder, new coil packs, injector 12 programmed by yours truly, new vacuum lines, new battery. Walnut blast although I didn't really feel a noticeable difference afterword's. I also replaced oil, brake fluid, transfer case fluid, power steering fluid, radiator fluid all with OEM fluids, I did NOT replace transmission fluid.

I went with a package deal from ARM Motor Sports. It was cheap and good quality. Everything fit fine although the fitting on the FMIC was very snug it took me a while to get it to clip in. It was a PITA! I got the 7" FMIC,CP, DP, DCI, I went with an EBAY Tial (Fake) BOV. MHD Stage 2+ tune uploaded from my android phone. I made 377whp so if you take that and multiply by %20 you get 452 power at the crank. So I was off by 48hp. To be honest I was a bit disappointed in the numbers but not in the seat of the pants feel. All that hard work was well worth the effort. It really woke the car up. I should have stipulated at the beginning. 500hp is at the crank.

I also did the Vadar Solutions valve and a new charge pipe. But I dont consider these performance upgrades.

If I did the fuel pump upgrade and did 30% Emix with the MDH E30-Tune I'm almost positive I could hit 500hp at the crank.

I also did the Firmware mod to my auto transmission. This was a great free mod. Made car shift much crisper if that's such a thing.

20% is kind of a ridiculous drivetrain loss figure for RWD, but you also did your math wrong, so it kind of evens out. 15% is closer to reality, so the equation would be x*.85=377. Solving for x gives you 444hp. A 20% loss would give you 471hp at the crank. But alas, crank numbers are lame.

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

If I'm going to do downpipes would it make sense to do inlets at the same time. How much time would it save.

It is a lot easier to install the rear silicone inlet with the DP's off. I used some lubricant on the rear one to help it slide down between the engine and firewall. The stock rear inlet is tricky to remove. You have to cut it off to pull it out from the top. And yes it does allow the turbos to breathe better and therefore make more power.

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by feuer

Placibo effect, no? Post before and after logs and dyno sheets. Then we can revisit the subject.

You keep telling people to prove that inlets don't help. Do you have proof they don't?? Lots of before and after dyno results posted about this on several sites.

[_N54]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Even with a 535 I don't think you can run Full E without Port Injection.

Most I would do with just a LPFP upgrade would be E50.

Yup I would never run full E unless I had port with dual pumps. E60 max with a single fuel pump is all I would do.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by sduncan219

Hello, If I am doing FBO's do I require 1 step colder plugs or 2?
Thanks

You don't require 1 step or 2 step colder plugs if your going FBO only.

OEM Bosch 3 pronged plugs are good enough for FBO

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by feuer

Placibo effect, no? Post before and after logs and dyno sheets. Then we can revisit the subject.

lol, inlets allow more airflow and make it easier for Turbos to hit boost targets, you can see the stock one is crushed like a pancake with obvious restrictions to airflow. There have already been threads posted with before and after for Inlets and Outlets, inlets can gain 20-30whp and possibly more.

[Torgus]

I like this thread.

[Spyro235]

Originally Posted by Torgus

I like this thread.

Me too lol- I havent really been in the n54 scene for about 3 years, but now I find myself with another n54, and I can't wait to delve back into it. I wonder how far advanced V9 maps are from v8- I sold my last 335i a bit after v8 came out I believe. Going to order the wireless adapter so I can use it with protool too, and get busy.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by Spyro235

Me too lol- I havent really been in the n54 scene for about 3 years, but now I find myself with another n54, and I can't wait to delve back into it. I wonder how far advanced V9 maps are from v8- I sold my last 335i a bit after v8 came out I believe. Going to order the wireless adapter so I can use it with protool too, and get busy.

Personally I like the wired adapter for flashing. I just don't trust wireless but I am probably just paranoid. My luck the phone will connect to something stupid and brick my DME during flashing. It is a hassle for logging having a cable to a degree. I might permanently install a cable and have it all tucked away etc. Then just plug into the obd2 when needed.

Once you go past fbo I would get a custom tune they are relatively cheap all things considered. Like when you add inlets or outlets or run e mixes. It is not that the OTS maps are bad. But if you want to get the most out you need a custom tune and I do not believe any of the maps are designed for intakes and or outlets. It is also nice to run a tune for your specific mods and e85 mix if not full e85.

I should really get fuelly for my deleted 35d x5...