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UPDATED - Engine Swap - 335D Crankshaft Main Bearings and Bolts Question
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09-19-2018, 10:35 AM | #45 |
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12-06-2018, 10:00 PM | #46 | |
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My dealer just told me likely bearings are causing the noise I started hearing all of sudden about 3 weeks ago. However, they did not drop the oil pan to actually check. Only have 61k miles on my 2011 so I am incredibly disappointed. I don't know how this could happen. I'll be getting a second option though. Then will decide whether I want to go through the time and cost of replacing my engine. The work is beyond my ability. I might be able to do it but would probably take me months. |
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12-06-2018, 10:30 PM | #47 |
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Well if you even THINK the bearings could be bad...stop driving now. Once the crank has to be turned the MAIN bearings are expensive as hell. Just went through all that. Rod bearings are fairly cheap though.
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12-06-2018, 10:58 PM | #48 | |
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Did the dealer tell you whether they suspected the issue was rod bearings or crankshaft bearings? If its the rod bearings and they havent done too much damage, then its a pretty straight forward repair that shouldnt be too expensive (relatively speaking). If its the crankshaft bearings, thats more of an issue. If they scored the bearing end caps, your only solution for a reliable fix would be to replace the engine (crankshaft bearing end caps cant readily be bought separately, at least I couldn't find any). If its just the crankshaft that's scored, you could have it re-profiled and reinstalled. This would probably be on the expensive side though since its not an easy task to get it out. I wouldnt be surprised if getting the crankshaft out and re-profiled matched the cost of a replacement engine. |
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12-06-2018, 11:01 PM | #49 | |
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Soonerbilly, what happened to your engine and what did you end up doing to fix it? |
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12-06-2018, 11:34 PM | #50 | ||
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12-07-2018, 07:40 AM | #51 |
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Only one way to find out for sure, drop the subframe and oil pan to inspect the bearings. If you haven't stopped driving the car yet, you might want to reconsider. I'm looking forward to hearing what Soonerbilly went through with his issue. It seems he chose a different path than I did and I'm curious how the two compare in terms of cost.
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12-07-2018, 08:15 AM | #52 | |
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12-07-2018, 01:49 PM | #53 |
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To Mark M's previous point my car definitely sounds like a diesel but this is not the first, second, or even third time I've heard of a spun main bearing on this engine. When I was shopping some years back there was an M Sport at Enthusiast Auto Group that had the engine replaced by BMW under warranty at 30K some odd miles. So, how are y'all able to hear/tell a difference between spun main bearings and just normal, operating diesel sounds? I hear some knocking around a bit at start up but everything smooths out pretty quickly when she warms up a little bit
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12-07-2018, 01:58 PM | #54 | |
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If the bearing has failed, the sound it makes usually wouldn't go away, especially after the engine warms up (colder and thicker oil might mask some sounds a bad bearing is making). In my case, the only time I knew something was up was the sound the engine made at 3k rpm. It was a sound that was definitely off and different even for a diesel. That's also a reason why it was caught so late, I'm rarely outside of the car listening to the engine at that 3k rpm. It sounded fine when idling though. |
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12-07-2018, 05:17 PM | #55 | |
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12-07-2018, 07:34 PM | #56 |
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Mine was making intermittent knocking sounds. Was thinking it was an injector going out( hoping for the best ). It turned out to be a spun rod bearing ( #6 ). Pulled the motor, had the crank turned and ordered the oversized bearings. Rod bearings were right at 100 bucks. 150 to turn the crank. The oversized main bearings were 100, BUT the block side bearings had to be sourced from BMW because all 3 sets I bought aftermarket the oil holes didn't line up AT ALL. 6 halves plus the center thrust for about 230ish. All assorted seals and gaskets were about 450. So I'm right at about a grand for the rebuild. Still contemplating aftermarket Cams and valve springs from COLT/Whitbread performance. That would be another 900. If you have any other questions APEX feel free to ask.
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12-07-2018, 07:59 PM | #57 |
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12-07-2018, 08:08 PM | #58 | |
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You said "The oversized main bearings were 100, BUT the block side bearings had to be sourced from BMW because all 3 sets I bought aftermarket the oil holes didn't line up AT ALL". Are you talking about the bearing end caps or the actual bearing themselves for the block side? Who was the aftermarket manufacturer? Also, any ideas on what caused your rod bearing to spin? From what you are saying I gather that the bearing damaged the crankshaft and not the rod itself. |
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12-07-2018, 08:43 PM | #59 |
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Actual bearings themselves had to be purchased from BMW, took 3 weeks to get. The wrong holes were MAHLES Kolbenschmidts and Relictecs I believe. NO IDEA what caused the issue, and the intermittent part really had me chasing my ass for a while until I just decided to pull it and dive in. Rod was damaged and the crank was scored some as well. My buddy has the same car ( doing the deletes and stuff on his is what made me get one, nothing quite like the power to fuel mileage ratio ) and we had bought another motor for parts or I would have needed another rod.
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12-07-2018, 09:23 PM | #60 | |
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I did learn something interesting though. It seems that if the dealer has to ever replace a bearing on a customers engine, they will usually only do the ones that are faulty (unless the customer requests all of them to be done). We found that while there were some in stock in a few dealerships, they were in odd numbers and usually didnt have matching lower/upper bearings in the same quantities. Interesting to see that Mahle bearings didnt match up. I know they make some of the OEM parts for BMW (like the actual piston) and find it surprising you couldnt use them. |
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12-07-2018, 09:27 PM | #61 |
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I'd suggest finding a different means of transport. You run the risk of getting metal shavings in other components that really shouldnt see them. You may be able to get away with an approach like Soonerbillys if you dont do any more damage. If the shavings seize the oil pump or get get other components, you might be looking at a complete rebuild.
If you really cant stop driving it, formulate a plan ASAP on getting it diagnosed and fixed based on whats wrong. You're working on borrowed time otherwise.... |
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12-07-2018, 09:40 PM | #62 | |
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Will update after i hear back, no earlier than Monday I suspect. |
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12-07-2018, 10:21 PM | #63 | ||
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12-07-2018, 10:24 PM | #64 | |||
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12-08-2018, 09:07 AM | #66 |
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bearings, bolts, crankshaft, wear |
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