[thread killer]

the reason why people are saying that im assuming is because of their lack of mechanical know how.

[Cornhusker]

The more i learn about modding cars the more foolish/costly it seems to do so vs just buying a better machine in the first place, m3, gtr, etc.

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by Cornhusker

The more i learn about modding cars the more foolish/costly it seems to do so vs just buying a better machine in the first place, m3, gtr, etc.

That doesn't change anything when it comes to your halfshafts or your clutch(es)

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Sorry to hear you have so many problems lately, Dzenno. I know what that is like myself, too!

I'm also following this with much interest as I have the CM FX300 lying in my garage to be installed together with upgraded turbos. I hope it's only a one-off problem and not a more general quality issue.

In any case, fingers crossed you get it sorted out!

Alpina_B3_Lux

[dzenno]

Alpina, for starters FX300 is a different material (organic vs. ceramic) but if this ends up being a pressure plate issue than I'd hold off..

[thread killer]

Originally Posted by Cornhusker

The more i learn about modding cars the more foolish/costly it seems to do so vs just buying a better machine in the first place, m3, gtr, etc.

this statement completely contradicts the heart and soul of wanting to mod a vehicle in the first place. its a shame to think you want only stock. i think people who make comments like that dont "get it" or "understand" the desire to screw with things. to make it personal. to make it YOURS. stock is never good enough. cookie cutter is NOT what i like.

my turbo M3 is(and has been) a project, i assure you. everything, short of the 304 stainless 10g turbo manifold has been done by me. the complete engine build, the 4" 304 stainless exhaust, EVERYTHING has been touched by me, and me only. i have north of 10 grand in parts alone EASY invested in it; we wont even think what i have billed myself in labor

actually it should be running this week, minus the methanol.... the injector weld in bungs arent here.... (hopefully tuned by the end of the year???) as im stuck at the house tending for the wife after surgery (call me baby- ill be in the garage )......




the reason i do it? the facial expression of a person owning a 300,000 dollar ferrari or a litre bike on the freeway as you pull bus lengths on them.......

happens when you see them do and you realise WHY you do it, then its all worth it.



and if you havent pulled your clutch delay valve out, i would highly reccomend it.

[klipseracer]

Originally Posted by thread killer

this statement completely contradicts the heart and soul of wanting to mod a vehicle in the first place. its a shame to think you want only stock. i think people who make comments like that dont "get it" or "understand" the desire to screw with things. to make it personal. to make it YOURS. stock is never good enough. cookie cutter is NOT what i like.

my turbo M3 is(and has been) a project, i assure you. everything, short of the 304 stainless 10g turbo manifold has been done by me. the complete engine build, the 4" 304 stainless exhaust, EVERYTHING has been touched by me, and me only. i have north of 10 grand in parts alone EASY invested in it; we wont even think what i have billed myself in labor

actually it should be running this week, minus the methanol.... the injector weld in bungs arent here.... (hopefully tuned by the end of the year???) as im stuck at the house tending for the wife after surgery (call me baby- ill be in the garage )......




the reason i do it? the facial expression of a person owning a 300,000 dollar ferrari or a litre bike on the freeway as you pull bus lengths on them.......

happens when you see them do and you realise WHY you do it, then its all worth it.



and if you havent pulled your clutch delay valve out, i would highly reccomend it.

+1
I didn't read your whole comment so if you begin talking about being gay or anything like killing rabbits then I retract my rep point lol.

[Mr. 5]

I will say that cermaic material doesn't last as long as the organic but 4500k?
That's just ridiculous!

[boostd92]

FWIW, I had an FX400 in my 350whp MR2. It was the best clutch I've ever owned. It had ferrocious engagement, stood up to studderbox launches and liftless shifting, and was still daily drivable without shuddering.

It was miles better than the Spec puck clutch I had, and the Exedy puck clutch.

I think you have a defective unit as the FX400's will take a TON of abuse before they let go.

[thread killer]

when my FX800 twin disc eats it, or i break the transmission (either one is GOING to happen.... then again my driveshaft and half shafts will break too) ill be putting a 200r transmission in it..... then its gonna be REALLY fast

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Alpina, for starters FX300 is a different material (organic vs. ceramic) but if this ends up being a pressure plate issue than I'd hold off..

Yes, I know that. It's just that I haven't read that many reviews of customers with the CM clutches (for our cars), and as it seems my stock clutch is on the verge of going out, I'd like to know what the issue is in your case and whether it's possible that the same could happen to my FX300 as well.

Good luck to you!

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by thread killer

the reason why people are saying that im assuming is because of their lack of mechanical know how.

Since I have done a number of clutches myself, I did the twin disc clutch and light weight flywheel on this car, I think I have a little mechanical knowledge. No need to be rude.

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Dzenno, the FX400 is used on a ton of other platforms with huge success. It is one of the real go-to clutches out there.

The only reason I even said anything about possible a bad install is that thing reeks of slippage. Either the material was defective as you hint about or the clutch was not fully engaging creating the slipping. Either way, that clutch has seen some serious slipping. I wonder if it was slipping all along and you just didn't notice?

[Tiago@VRSF]

Doesn't look like it was installed incorrectly but it definitely looks there was some intense overheating. I'm guessing the 6 puck disc's friction material was defective.

I've seen this happen on another car but it was when a customer thought he was doing a burnout and ended up doing a clutch burnout for almost 15-20 seconds.

[dzenno]

Very possible that clutch was burnt out instead of a burnout or that it was slipping all along and I didn't notice...I'm thinking this was a pressure plate problem..

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Very possible that clutch was burnt out instead of a burnout or that it was slipping all along and I didn't notice...I'm thinking this was a pressure plate problem..

Pressure plate not fully dis-engaging or engaging the clutch?

[dzenno]

Right..one of those..letting it slightly slip but constantly..their PPs are reinforced SACHS units so maybe that work on mine went sideways

[thread killer]

Originally Posted by Former_Boosted_IS

Since I have done a number of clutches myself, I did the twin disc clutch and light weight flywheel on this car, I think I have a little mechanical knowledge. No need to be rude.

no, but this isnt a 1978 ford f150 with mechanical linkage that has to be adjusted for proper throw and engagement. there isnt anything you can "adjust" in a BMW clutch. granted, a OEM clutch as a SAC system, that you have to reset/hold when you remove and install one (without replacing it), but other than that, a new OEM clutch is preset with the "ninja star" and of course after market clutches dont have SAC systems......


it always makes me chuckle how BMW forums have such thin skinned people on them...lol

look, being conservative without exaggerating i probably have replaced north of 150 clutches on BMW's...... this ISNT a installer error, but either a pressure plate issue, the throwout bearing or clutch fork is binding not allowing pressure plate release (as an example of S85 SMG clutch issues), the material failed (but the steel says other wise) or the user abused the clutch.

basically held the clutch with half of my left foot to disengage and then held the brake with the other half and then slowly applied gas and let go of the clutch...managed to do a burnout and there was no issues and NO smell, just a quick 2-3 second burnout...

personally i could see how this clutch could get wasted the way the OP described how he does a burn out. hold brake, and slip clutch out in 2nd while applying gas? sorry..... i just drop the clutch and then grab some brake after the tires are spinning and let it do its thing.

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by thread killer

look, being conservative without exaggerating i probably have replaced north of 150 clutches on BMW's...... this ISNT a installer error, but either a pressure plate issue, the throwout bearing or clutch fork is binding not allowing pressure plate release (as an example of S85 SMG clutch issues), the material failed (but the steel says other wise) or the user abused the clutch.

Maybe I jumped the gun. Sorry for getting defensive.

I think you are probably right to be honest on your assessment. It certainly does point to a defect somewhere where the clutch was not fully engaging or disengaging.

[thread killer]

exactly. i dont think it was the actual clutch disc's fault. it looks like it put up a hell of a fight. the pressure plate, or hell i have seen when the pressure plate wasnt bolted down correctly/loose (ok THAT would be installer error, but that would be super rare for it to last that long without other issues showing up, like dragging clutch, or hard shifting)......

that or the geometry of the clutch fork isnt the same as the OEM pressure plate, causing the throwout bearing to stick on the nose peice of the transmission.

OP, i would strongly reccommend replacing the nose peice of the tranny. cheap part, and i always do it with my clutch repairs.

remember NO GREASE ON THE NOSE PEICE OR THROWOUT BEARING

[dzenno]

the nose piece? pilot bearing you mean?

First thing Luis from ClutchMasters mentioned after seeing photos was that they'd have to see the parts in person (I had to ship them down) and he says they'd look at the pressure plate..throwout bearing was also DONE

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by thread killer

exactly. i dont think it was the actual clutch disc's fault. it looks like it put up a hell of a fight. the pressure plate, or hell i have seen when the pressure plate wasnt bolted down correctly/loose (ok THAT would be installer error, but that would be super rare for it to last that long without other issues showing up, like dragging clutch, or hard shifting)......

that or the geometry of the clutch fork isnt the same as the OEM pressure plate, causing the throwout bearing to stick on the nose peice of the transmission.

OP, i would strongly reccommend replacing the nose peice of the tranny. cheap part, and i always do it with my clutch repairs.

remember NO GREASE ON THE NOSE PEICE OR THROWOUT BEARING

That is the only installer error I could conceivably see is the PP not bolted down properly too.

Remember CM does adjust the fulcrum point on the pressure plate and replaces the TOB/release lever. If there is a design issue, I would suspect it is possible it could be there? If the release lever was not correctly adjusted for the fulcrum point change, then it could mean the clutch would not fully engage or disengage with the pedal movement. I would think you would notice if it wasn't fully disengaging, but it is certainly possible that you would not know if it fully engaged.

Like you, I am amazed his clutch held up this long considering the unbelievable heat damage. I think it will you Dzenno's power level easily.