[neilvan]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I've been maintaining the site as-is to keep existing downloads available, but I haven't worked on anything new in a long time. I do have plans to refresh everything but it's not a priority at the moment.

Just curious do you mean stock tunes or custom tunes?

I was hoping to ask you for a performance 530i tune shortly But I also get the E60 is a very low number market and even both MSV70 is not a super easy swap over

[Reaktiv]

Originally Posted by neilvan

Your best shot is to order a tune thru bimmerlabs (won't be free) and you may as well get a performance one

tell me how to do it? i am ready to pay

[Virtual Factoid]

Hassmaschine & E92_William: So I did the 328i to 330i With MAF tune as I mentioned before. I ordered new DISA valves just because I didn't want to take apart the intake manifold anytime soon with a refurbished DISA failing on me. Even though I had new DISAs, I decided to test them with INPA. They both tested fine, I was able to fully open and fully close them with INPA commands. I tested them both one at a time connected to the DISA-2 connector only.

Here's what's concerning: when I tested directly by revving up the engine, it did nothing at all. It was fully open ALL the time all up to 5K rev band. When the heck is it supposed to close, even if partially? At this point it seems to be a placebo effect going into all the trouble to replace the manifold if it is going to stay at 100% open position. Isn't the 328 manifold with no DISA valves effectively the same as a 330 manifold with the value always open? What am I missing here? Or does all the magic happen on the DISA-1 connector only (which I did not test)?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Virtual Factoid

Hassmaschine & E92_William: So I did the 328i to 330i With MAF tune as I mentioned before. I ordered new DISA valves just because I didn't want to take apart the intake manifold anytime soon with a refurbished DISA failing on me. Even though I had new DISAs, I decided to test them with INPA. They both tested fine, I was able to fully open and fully close them with INPA commands. I tested them both one at a time connected to the DISA-2 connector only.

Here's what's concerning: when I tested directly by revving up the engine, it did nothing at all. It was fully open ALL the time all up to 5K rev band. When the heck is it supposed to close, even if partially? At this point it seems to be a placebo effect going into all the trouble to replace the manifold if it is going to stay at 100% open position. Isn't the 328 manifold with no DISA valves effectively the same as a 330 manifold with the value always open? What am I missing here? Or does all the magic happen on the DISA-1 connector only (which I did not test)?

1st stage - idling/lower engine speed range
At idle speed and in the lower engine speed range, the DISA actuator motors 1 and 2 are closed.
The intake air flows past the throttle valve into the resonance pipe. In the resonance pipe, the intake air mass splits. The air is fed via the collector pipe and resonating pipes into the individual cylinders. In this way, three cylinders are provided with a comparably high air mass.

2nd stage (Approx 3000 rpms) - medium engine speed range
In the medium engine speed range, DISA actuator motor 2 is opened.
In this case, it is assumed that the inlet valves of the first cylinder are just closing. The gas motion creates a pressure peak at the closing inlet valves. This pressure peak is passed on via the resonating and collector pipes to the in next cylinder in the firing order. This improves the filling of the next cylinder to be charged.

3rd stage (Approx 4300 rpms) - upper engine speed range
In the upper engine speed range, both DISA actuator motors are opened.
In this case, it is assumed that the inlet valves of the first cylinder are just closing. The gas motion creates a pressure peak in front of the closing inlet valves. The intake air mass is now fed via the resonating, overshoot and collector pipes.

[Virtual Factoid]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

1st stage - idling/lower engine speed range
At idle speed and in the lower engine speed range, the DISA actuator motors 1 and 2 are closed.
The intake air flows past the throttle valve into the resonance pipe. In the resonance pipe, the intake air mass splits. The air is fed via the collector pipe and resonating pipes into the individual cylinders. In this way, three cylinders are provided with a comparably high air mass.

2nd stage (Approx 3000 rpms) - medium engine speed range
In the medium engine speed range, DISA actuator motor 2 is opened.
In this case, it is assumed that the inlet valves of the first cylinder are just closing. The gas motion creates a pressure peak at the closing inlet valves. This pressure peak is passed on via the resonating and collector pipes to the in next cylinder in the firing order. This improves the filling of the next cylinder to be charged.

3rd stage (Approx 4300 rpms) - upper engine speed range
In the upper engine speed range, both DISA actuator motors are opened.
In this case, it is assumed that the inlet valves of the first cylinder are just closing. The gas motion creates a pressure peak in front of the closing inlet valves. The intake air mass is now fed via the resonating, overshoot and collector pipes.

Thanks for clarifying how it is supposed to function but that is not what I observed. Note that I can only speak about DISA-2 since I did not connect the DISA-1 connector to anything.

"1st stage - idling/lower engine speed range
At idle speed and in the lower engine speed range, the DISA actuator motors 1 and 2 are closed. "

--> my DISA-2 was open

"2nd stage (Approx 3000 rpms) - medium engine speed range
In the medium engine speed range, DISA actuator motor 2 is opened. "

--> my DISA-2 was open

"3rd stage (Approx 4300 rpms) - upper engine speed range
In the upper engine speed range, both DISA actuator motors are opened. "

--> my DISA-2 was open

-------------------

Bottom line, my DISA-2 was open since it never closed in the first place. It opened 100% as soon as I started the car and remained open throughout the rev band.

Perhaps both DISA valves need to be hooked up inside the intake manifold for the DME to send the right signals to both based on loopback data analysis? That's what I am leaning towards now.

[hassmaschine]

I'm not sure what the issue is, if there even is one. There's nothing to add in the wiring, the stock wiring works fine. The DISA settings haven't been changed. Perhaps a bad DISA valve?

I've never needed to do this test directly, and I'm not sure off the top of my head if it's strictly RPM dependent, but I don't think it is. Load should also have a role, and if you're free revving in neutral that's not the same as actually driving the car, putting the engine under load. and the behavior will be different.

[E92_William]

I've had no issues previously testing disa valves based on RPM. Maybe load has an effect but I haven't noticed it. It's almost guaranteed that I will always feel one disa open at 3500 and the other at 4300 while driving and same when testing with one hooked up to the cable and the car revving. Maybe that disa is bad indeed or you grabbed the connector for something else.

However don't condemn the valve itself so soon because I've noticed while testing valves that if I do the test of turning off the engine for it to open and turning it on for it to close shut, it won't do it if I disconnected it while the engine was running previously as it'll still have a stuck fault for it in the DME (which stops using both if one throws a code) it does it after a 2nd try though.

[Virtual Factoid]

Thanks to both hassmaschine and E92_William. You have some good points there about load and error codes which I did not think of earlier. I certainly had DISA error codes after I did the tune with the old manifold still on the engine. Next I will try by connecting the DISA valve to the DISA-2 connector and then clear the code for DISA-2. Maybe the results will be different when I rev up after that. I have very little reason to suspect my valves because they are brand new and I can get them to open and close on demand on INPA.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by Virtual Factoid

Thanks to both hassmaschine and E92_William. You have some good points there about load and error codes which I did not think of earlier. I certainly had DISA error codes after I did the tune with the old manifold still on the engine. Next I will try by connecting the DISA valve to the DISA-2 connector and then clear the code for DISA-2. Maybe the results will be different when I rev up after that. I have very little reason to suspect my valves because they are brand new and I can get them to open and close on demand on INPA.

If you can get the Disa valves to open and close with INPA without issues, just install them, tune it and go for a drive.

Don't worry about trying to watch them open and close while reviving your engine.

[88TAW]

Hi guys,

I'm out of options so I'm posting also here, hopeing to get a response hrom hassmaschine or rjahl .

I want to use this DIY to install a Bimmerlabs tune.

My issue is that I have an 130i 265ps version, and I don't have any SW options to install, wanted at least the Maffless and catless tune.

I also have other mods so I want to buy a custom tune, but I don't have any feedback from bimmerlabs site or private messages on this forum.

Do you guys can still deliver n52 tunes?

It's not urgent, the car runs great, but I need to find a solution.

I live in Eastern Europe and my 130iLE is the only one in my country...

Please help...

[Twix]

Keep getting errors. Cable is set to com1, latency is 1. Everything else is set up right but I keep getting errors.

Edit: got it. Zigged when I shoulda zagged. Used the wrong .bat file first

[Hotter]

Originally Posted by 88TAW

Hi guys,

I'm out of options so I'm posting also here, hopeing to get a response hrom hassmaschine or rjahl .

I want to use this DIY to install a Bimmerlabs tune.

My issue is that I have an 130i 265ps version, and I don't have any SW options to install, wanted at least the Maffless and catless tune.

I also have other mods so I want to buy a custom tune, but I don't have any feedback from bimmerlabs site or private messages on this forum.

Do you guys can still deliver n52 tunes?

It's not urgent, the car runs great, but I need to find a solution.

I live in Eastern Europe and my 130iLE is the only one in my country...

Please help...

I would be also interested in more "power/torque tune" if its possible with N52B30/GM1912. Also live in Eastern Europe and have 328i->330i tuned.

[Virtual Factoid]

Warning: slightly off-topic rant

So I took rjahl's advice and just decided to go for it. DIY and wrenching is a fun activity for me so I took a couple vacay days off for this. My family thinks I am nuts for doing that. I am in the middle of the job right now on my driveway. Took the intake manifold off. Two major pain points were: 1) disconnecting the breather hose connector behind the VCG and 2) unscrewing the right-side wiring harness-block metal plate connector at the bottom of the manifold. There's a good reason why there are no un-cut videos showing those 2 items in detail - because there's a lot of swearing going on and it is too time consuming for youtube.

On a forced break right now as the weather's turned on me. It started raining so I have to postpone the rest to tomorrow.

There's something that's bothering me that I am hoping the gurus here could clarify: when I removed the intake manifold, I also removed the bolts and the studs. Both are made of steel. I also replaced the starter after I removed the manifold (easy job when you have the manifold off). The starter bolts were both aluminum. "Galvanic corrosion" is given as the reason behind using Aluminum bolts since the engine block is a Magnesium-Aluminum alloy. So why is it that steel bolts are being used at some places then? I believe the bolts for OFHG are also steel. The Valve Cover screws are all aluminum but the intake bolts and studs that go into the same engine block are steel?

Is "galvanic corrosion" applicable only when it is convenient?

/rant

[PhaseP]

engine head aluminimum, steel bolt, corrosion minimum

N52 engine block magnesium jacketed, aluminimum bolt, corrosion minimum

2006 N52 valve cover is magnesium, aluminimum valve cover bolts

Post 2006 N52 valve cover plastic, steel valve cover bolts.

[hassmaschine]

the head is aluminum. so anything that attaches to it is steel.

OFH bolts are definitely aluminum. they thread into the block.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

the head is aluminum. so anything that attaches to it is steel.

OFH bolts are definitely aluminum. they thread into the block.

Yeah, those and the Head bolts feel so light you feel like you could just snap them in half with your hands.

[hassmaschine]

the head bolts are steel. if you mean the bolts on the front that seal the timing cover to the block, those are aluminum.

funny enough, it probably helps contribute to the lightness of the N52. All those bolts add up - probably a few lbs saved just using the lighter bolts.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

the head bolts are steel. if you mean the bolts on the front that seal the timing cover to the block, those are aluminum.

funny enough, it probably helps contribute to the lightness of the N52. All those bolts add up - probably a few lbs saved just using the lighter bolts.

I did actually mean the head bolts (4 pieces) vs the VC bolts -- maybe I gotta check my spares again. I know the oil pan bolt set was super light too; but I could of sworn I was questioning the rigidity of a few significant bolts.

[PhaseP]

Bolts that contact with magnesium are aluminum, to reduce corrosion chance.
N52 engine head is aluminum, anything bolts on to the head is steel bolt. (except 2006 N52 valve cover bolts are aluminum because the valve cover itself is magnesium)
N52 engine block has aluminum insert that is inside magnesium jacket; a composite design. Anything that directly bolts on to the aluminum insert will be steel bolt also. I suppose most head bolts directly bolt onto the aluminum insert part of the block. The ones that bolt on to the magnesium part, like the front timing chain cover area are aluminum bolts.

A picture from Google, you can tell where the aluminum insert is vs magnesium jacket from the color difference:


Bottom of the block, the bed plate I think what it is called, is also magnesium so the oil pan bolts are magnesium too. Starter bolts onto the magnesium part of the block so aluminum bolts.

More info:
https://f01.justanswer.com/kwiggins2...N52+Engine.pdf

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

I did actually mean the head bolts (4 pieces) vs the VC bolts -- maybe I gotta check my spares again. I know the oil pan bolt set was super light too; but I could of sworn I was questioning the rigidity of a few significant bolts.

those are the timing cover bolts. the actual head bolts are definitely steel!

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

those are the timing cover bolts. the actual head bolts are definitely steel!

I think we're on the same page, just different terminology:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...lt-11127529997
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-1-1-1-1-1-1-1
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1858851

[Biginboca]

Ok since you guys brought it up and this thread is totally derailed anyway I have a question…

I’m getting ready to install one of those crank hub seal guards. There are quite a few companies selling them now.

They all work the same way, undo the crank hub pulley and then bolt the guard over the crank hub seal using the bottom front 2 bolts below the crank hub. Shown here:



So some companies selling the guards are using aluminum bolts, some are using stainless bolts, and some using undisclosed (I assume steel) bolts. I ordered the ECS Tuning one which uses stainless bolts.

I did some reading and it said any of those would be ok in aluminum provided you are using a smaller steel part in a large aluminum part. (Like a single bolt into an aluminum block).

But is that area shown in the image above with the 2 screws aluminum or magnesium?