[Morpheus]

Originally Posted by themyst

If you superknocked, you WOULD throw a Glow Ignition code. They're ugly little buggers.

According to these guys I should be though, right? I run map 5 in the south! It's hot as hell here in the summer. I should be limping left and right.

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by ExpensiveTaste

So just a quick question to end the night. What is the hottest ambient temp you have logged the Cobb at so far?

65 degrees. I live in the north east. Friday it was 65, today I woke up to 8 inches of snow on the ground.

[Morpheus]

Originally Posted by Clap135

yea, if you do, then the last measure of safty failed and you damaged your engine. You want to rely on your last measure 100 percent of the time, go ahead.

so no code until engine damage occurs? hmm, that doesn't sound like a good design.

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by Morpheus

According to these guys I should be though, right? I run map 5 in the south! It's hot as hell here in the summer. I should be limping left and right.

Go do a couple 1/4 miles pulls, let me know what you find. Messing around for a gear or two is fine. So is not loading up on the dyno. Load the car up, you know the way terry loaded his car up that autotuned to 12.5 degrees on a fully bolted car, and is still droping ignition

[ExpensiveTaste]

Originally Posted by Clap135

65 degrees. I live in the north east. Friday it was 65, today I woke up to 8 inches of snow on the ground.

I'm in the northeast too, but we only got 6 today. Can you post the log in 65 degree weather, if you don't mind? Also, you're FBO, right?

[Shellacked135i]

10 day forecast doesnt break 43 around here. I dont foresee too many 65 degree logs posted from clap. Unless he did one the other day? Edit, woops nevermind!

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by ExpensiveTaste

I'm in the northeast too, but we only got 6 today. Can you post the log in 65 degree weather, if you don't mind? Also, you're FBO, right?

The log is on my work computer in the office. It is also not the traditional stage 1 log as I have been using maps with a little extra ump.

[ExpensiveTaste]

Originally Posted by Clap135

The log is on my work computer in the office. It is also not the traditional stage 1 log as I have been using maps with a little extra ump.

Unless what you're using uses the Stage 1 timing curve, it probably won't apply to the thread.

[Morpheus]

Originally Posted by themyst

If you superknocked, you WOULD throw a Glow Ignition code. They're ugly little buggers.

ah so it's the superknock I have to watch out for. No wonder I'm confused. Stock boost=knock is okay. BMW can't cover all the bases!
Increased boost=blow the engine, unless you have a 3 degree margin of safety.
Superknock=too late I'm screwed! Did I get it right this time?

Wow, I never thought of myself as "lucky". But it's been 2.5 years and no limps with a JB3. No codes with BT scanner. I should go buy a powerball ticket or something.

[Morpheus]

Originally Posted by Clap135

Go do a couple 1/4 miles pulls, let me know what you find. Messing around for a gear or two is fine. So is not loading up on the dyno. Load the car up, you know the way terry loaded his car up that autotuned to 12.5 degrees on a fully bolted car, and is still droping ignition

so maybe for my application I'm okay? I only have JB3, intake, and IC. Not really racing or doing any 1/4s.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Here is another set of logs from a FBO 91 octane customer testing map 5. His car is able to hold more boost without dropouts than BMS' 135i car is. Quite interesting to see the car to car and gas station to gas station variance. Just goes to show how important autotuning is.

Mike

[Forcefed3]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

Here is another set of logs from a FBO 91 octane customer testing map 5. His car is able to hold more boost without dropouts than BMS' 135i car is. Quite interesting to see the car to car and gas station to gas station variance. Just goes to show how important autotuning is.

Mike

If I am not mistaken that seems to be a great timing curve.

[STONEY_M5]

So it's safe to say Dinan is the safest tune on the market(not the best and not the cheapest) just the safest, since it remaps more parameters than just about all other tunes besides bmw performance of course???

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by gbreeE90

If I am not mistaken that seems to be a great timing curve.

There really is no such thing as a great timing curve. The curve has to match the boost, octane, conditions, etc. The OEM system hones in as perfect of a timing curve for each situation as it can. When you see drop outs happening all the time you know stability is dropping which is the first sign that you're over aggressive for your octane. As a best practice you want to shoot for minimal drop outs that are not DTC, shift, or throttle related. But those drop outs do not indicate serious knock or imminent danger as the haters here want you to believe. The truth is they can't figure out why their predictions of blown motors @ 15psi made starting back in 2007 have not panned out 10,000 tuned cars later.

Mike

[Joshboody]

That's a nice timing curve Mike on a fully bolted car with boost taper... and not sure if that's accurate IAT at 10deg C? But of course it will look good.

The interesting thing is that I can show multiple stock logs clearing defining what the stock tune is doing. why doesn't the other camp show many logs instead of 1 or 2 here and there. it would take an hour at the most to compile into a jpg file.

I'm sure the "other tuner" would post many back to back logs, and/or ask his customers to do the same... if he was getting indirectly attached like this. Cobb just a has a hand full of customers now... and already i've seen more "complete" logs.

[Bagelfast]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

There really is no such thing as a great timing curve. The curve has to match the boost, octane, conditions, etc. The OEM system hones in as perfect of a timing curve for each situation as it can. When you see drop outs happening all the time you know stability is dropping which is the first sign that you're over aggressive for your octane. As a best practice you want to shoot for minimal drop outs that are not DTC, shift, or throttle related. But those drop outs do not indicate serious knock or imminent danger as the haters here want you to believe. The truth is they can't figure out why their predictions of blown motors @ 15psi made starting back in 2007 have not panned out 10,000 tuned cars later.
Mike

This is what i am interested in aswell. They keep talking about this being bad and that being bad etc. but give no reason to why thousands of N54's havent blown up since JB1/2/3 came out.
I personally ran a JB3 since the very first day it came out to the latest 2.0 version on my 2007 coupe ( which i got just after they were first released) for almost 4 years, with over 35K+ miles i put on the car and still going till this day with my cousin in which i sold the car to. The car is running still STRONG and healthy and getting over 30mpg on the highway haha. I've put my coupe through hell and back, and did all types of driving, and the thing keeps going. And there is similar stories everywhere on the forum.

[Morpheus]

Mike can you find any logs of iS cars? Would be interesting to see.

[Morpheus]

Originally Posted by 1LUMI335

This is what i am interested in aswell. They keep talking about this being bad and that being bad etc. but give no reason to why thousands of N54's havent blown up since JB1/2/3 came out.
I personally ran a JB3 since the very first day it came out to the latest 2.0 version on my 2007 coupe ( which i got just after they were first released) for almost 4 years, with over 35K+ miles i put on the car and still going till this day with my cousin in which i sold the car to. The car is running still STRONG and healthy and getting over 30mpg on the highway haha. I've put my coupe through hell and back, and did all types of driving, and the thing keeps going. And there is similar stories everywhere on the forum.

LOL, yeah I started out with JB1! And didn't you read? Thousands HAVE blown up with JB3s, they just didn't post about it here so BMW would fix their cars under warranty.

[Morpheus]

Engine Block
The guys at Birds discovered that piston #5 was on its way to destruction. The piston had lost a chunk of material on the corner and the rings were badly worn. Oil had definitely been seeping past and there was also a tiny speck of plastic sitting on top of the piston crown (where that came from is anyone's guess!) The top of the piston was covered in specks of carbon and tiny bits of aluminium. The other cylinders looked ok in terms of piston wear, but the cylinder bores were all significantly scored, much more than would have been expected from a 50,000 mile engine (which is what mine has done)....The car has been running either a remap or Procede for about the same mileage as well (about three years)....

great thread BTW if you haven't seen it.

[AlterZgo]

My 2 cents... As people have already pointed out, there are many here who just refuse to learn and understand basic tuning principles.

I think the problem is, many of the younger posters on this forum grew up reading about overclocking and hacking computers and cell phones and iPods and whatnot. Difference is, you overclock a computer and until it starts freezing and all you have to do is back off the speed a bit and no harm no foul. You jailbreak your iPhone and if it gets a screwed up, you can always flash back to stock ROM and you're OK.

However, if you run a car - ANY car - with excessive amts of boost, timing, excessive lean A/F ratios, you can instantly grenade your motor to the tune of a $10K+ repair. This isn't something you can recover from by just turning the boost down to stock or running a less aggressive map. Once your motor is fried, that's it.

So, with this amt of risk involved, why would anyone still prefer to use a tune that solely relies on the stock engine's computer to control timing and boost at over 2x stock boost levels when they can purchase a tune that provides the proper timing and boost controls for just a small amount more?

Those who believe BMW engineers know everything about N54 motors and provide the perfect strategies for managing detonation in the stock DME, do you really believe BMW engineered these motors to run 16+ psi for sustained periods of time with the stock maps? Hell no! Look at how conservative they are with the 335is. They add extra oil coolers and they only allow overboost under pre-set conditions for 7 seconds and if it's too warm, it won't allow overboost and the timing is definitely reduced compared to a stock N54. All that for just 7 seconds of 14 psi overboost.

So, if you really think BMW engineers are so sharp (and they are), why the fuck would you want to run 16+ PSI sustained with the stock timing maps and rely solely on the stock DME to pull timing?

[Sniz]

Originally Posted by AlterZgo

My 2 cents... As people have already pointed out, there are many here who just refuse to learn and understand basic tuning principles.

I think the problem is, many of the younger posters on this forum grew up reading about overclocking and hacking computers and cell phones and iPods and whatnot. Difference is, you overclock a computer and until it starts freezing and all you have to do is back off the speed a bit and no harm no foul. You jailbreak your iPhone and if it gets a screwed up, you can always flash back to stock ROM and you're OK.

However, if you run a car - ANY car - with excessive amts of boost, timing, excessive lean A/F ratios, you can instantly grenade your motor to the tune of a $10K+ repair. This isn't something you can recover from by just turning the boost down to stock or running a less aggressive map. Once your motor is fried, that's it.

So, with this amt of risk involved, why would anyone still prefer to use a tune that solely relies on the stock engine's computer to control timing and boost at over 2x stock boost levels when they can purchase a tune that provides the proper timing and boost controls for just a small amount more?

Those who believe BMW engineers know everything about N54 motors and provide the perfect strategies for managing detonation in the stock DME, do you really believe BMW engineered these motors to run 16+ psi for sustained periods of time with the stock maps? Hell no! Look at how conservative they are with the 335is. They add extra oil coolers and they only allow overboost under pre-set conditions for 7 seconds and if it's too warm, it won't allow overboost and the timing is definitely reduced compared to a stock N54. All that for just 7 seconds of 14 psi overboost.

So, if you really think BMW engineers are so sharp (and they are), why the fuck would you want to run 16+ PSI sustained with the stock timing maps and rely solely on the stock DME to pull timing?

take your common sense elsewhere

its not welcome here where JB tunes are being worshipped.

[Black Gold]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

n. When you see drop outs happening all the time you know stability is dropping which is the first sign that you're over aggressive for your octane. As a best practice you want to shoot for minimal drop outs that are not DTC, shift, or throttle related.

Mike

and that ^^^^^ is what everyone has been posting for 35+ pages.

And the JBx tunes as of yet have no way to limit the occurance of these knock sensor related timing drops. BMW, procede, cobb, giac do by either lowering the max set ignition limits, CPS offseting. The jb does none of the above.

So by virtue of your own statements, the jb in it's current form is deficient because it is unable to limit these events as other tunes are able to do.