[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Scott B

Original post found here.

My 1M's powertrain is stock with exception of a Forge FMIC, and Cobb reflash (Stg1+FMIC LT Sport IKC0S 1M v402 + Linear Throttle). At Laguna, I run a mix of about 97+ octane to prevent detonation. What I'm experiencing after about the first lap of every session is some fluctuation in power delivery at full throttle. On the first lap, as on the street, power delivery is very predictable and linear with pedal input. I suspect something is getting hot and that the DME is throttling boost in response, but I'm not exactly sure -- that's what it feels like, anyway. Oil temps look about 260* on the gauge. Ambient temps were about 85* F.

Two things I should have tried that day:
1) Reflashing to a less aggressive map (although the one I'm running fits my level of mods)
2) Datalogged the DME

Any ideas what could be going on or what might be getting hot? As you can see in the video, it isn't really a problem per se, more of a slight imperfection that I can feel while driving. Thoughts welcome.

Tough to say, but its usually the oil that gets hot too quickly on n54s. Without a log im not sure if its possible to see why/if timing is being pulled out.

[E90Company]

Originally Posted by 335XI///M

For a daily driver do you think it's safe to run the Stg1+ Aggressive map on 91 Octane with about 3 Gal of E85 mixed in per tank, making about an E25 mix?

It seems to like the Sport flash with the extra E85 added in, for long term use do you think it would be okay to run the Aggressive map on the aforementioned mix?

What's the main difference between Sport and Aggressive maps?

You will be fine running agressive with that mix for sure. You can always log it to make sure the car is happy as well. Sport vs Agressive is slightly higher boost and timing targets.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Scott B

Original post found here.

My 1M's powertrain is stock with exception of a Forge FMIC, and Cobb reflash (Stg1+FMIC LT Sport IKC0S 1M v402 + Linear Throttle). At Laguna, I run a mix of about 97+ octane to prevent detonation. What I'm experiencing after about the first lap of every session is some fluctuation in power delivery at full throttle. On the first lap, as on the street, power delivery is very predictable and linear with pedal input. I suspect something is getting hot and that the DME is throttling boost in response, but I'm not exactly sure -- that's what it feels like, anyway. Oil temps look about 260* on the gauge. Ambient temps were about 85* F.

Two things I should have tried that day:
1) Reflashing to a less aggressive map (although the one I'm running fits my level of mods)
2) Datalogged the DME

Any ideas what could be going on or what might be getting hot? As you can see in the video, it isn't really a problem per se, more of a slight imperfection that I can feel while driving. Thoughts welcome.

More than likely it's the CATs that are working against you, at least at first. It doesn't take long on a road course for the CATs to get hot and kill your power. After that then oil/ECT temps are next on the list of suspects.

If you're serious about tracking the car then this problem will probably need to be addressed on a couple different fronts.

Talk to @Jake@ptf about a map specifically for road coursing the car and, if it is allowed by your sanctioning body, methanol injection. The chemical cooling effects meth injection offers is awesome.

Then look into running a better oil cooler setup than the stock unit. I know @MDORPHN has a really slick setup on his 1M and he probably is one of(if not THE) top track guys on the forums. So you may want to talk to him.

[Jonjt]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Tough to say, but its usually the oil that gets hot too quickly on n54s. Without a log im not sure if its possible to see why/if timing is being pulled out.

I've seen my N54 pull timing, presumably because of high IATs (ambient at 95 F or higher). The oil gets hotter but, stays just under 250 F. This is with street driving, though.

[Jake@MOTIV]

Thanks for the shout We have tuned a few track only n54's with stock and upgraded turbos. I got off teh dyno with one today actually. The car has never even been registered to drive on the street. it is strictly a track car. It's an 08 135i with a MASSIVE widebody and full custom cooling vents for front and rear brakes. The car is incredible looking.



We will be working with them on a few fun projects coming up and have joined up for the upcoming track seasons to keep his car running the way it should with full support of PTF Tunes for all of his events. His pump gas only (93oct) tune today made HUGE power under the curve on RB turbos

[skatenc123]

Originally Posted by Jake@PTF

Thanks for the shout We have tuned a few track only n54's with stock and upgraded turbos. I got off teh dyno with one today actually. The car has never even been registered to drive on the street. it is strictly a track car. It's an 08 135i with a MASSIVE widebody and full custom cooling vents for front and rear brakes. The car is incredible looking.



We will be working with them on a few fun projects coming up and have joined up for the upcoming track seasons to keep his car running the way it should with full support of PTF Tunes for all of his events. His pump gas only (93oct) tune today made HUGE power under the curve on RB turbos

Is this the one that national speed in Wilmington nc?

[Florida650iGC]

Originally Posted by E90Company

You will be fine running agressive with that mix for sure. You can always log it to make sure the car is happy as well. Sport vs Agressive is slightly higher boost and timing targets.

Thx, Major General! I'll give it a shot next week and throw up some logs. I've tried the Aggressive map once on that mix but it was also the only time I used the linear throttle and I hated it.

I think that may have biased my experience with the Aggressive map since the Sport ST map felt faster by comparison. Cant wait to give the Aggressive ST map a try and see if I can tell any difference.

[Jake@MOTIV]

Originally Posted by skatenc123

Is this the one that national speed in Wilmington nc?

This is that car but it was built at a different shop. The owner of the car used to work there

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Jonjt

I've seen my N54 pull timing, presumably because of high IATs (ambient at 95 F or higher). The oil gets hotter but, stays just under 250 F. This is with street driving, though.

charge temps will certainly do it esp. on pump gas.

[skatenc123]

Originally Posted by Jake@PTF

This is that car but it was built at a different shop. The owner of the car used to work there

I can't see the pics but as soon as I read wide body 135i I knew it had to be that one. Seen it in person. It's immaculate. I believe his name was bobby? Anyway there's a thread on it on importsnc with some cool pics.

[M3E46M]

Hey guys, just loaded Stage 2+ FMIC Agressive, and I do see timing pull from my initial pulls 2nd -3rd gear but the last pull i don't see any timing pull which was in 4th gear. Is it possible that the ECU didn't adopt yet on the initial pulls?

My mods are:
VRSF 3" Catless DPs - just installed
VRSF 5 in Front Mount Intercooler
K&N Drop In filter
Stock Exhaust
BMS Oil Catch Can
ER Charge Pipe with Stock Diverter Valves
Car is 2008 335i e92 Manual Trans


Here is the file from 2nd to 3rd gear pull WOT (with timing pull)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ha9b10s81s610kx/datalog3.csv

Here is the 4th gear pull (last pull which shows no timing pull)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kma9332feued2g2/datalog4.csv

Will do more runs but the car is so fast dont want to end up in jail so have to find a good straight. Just need your thoughts.

[Scott B]

Originally Posted by Ænema

More than likely it's the CATs that are working against you, at least at first. It doesn't take long on a road course for the CATs to get hot and kill your power. After that then oil/ECT temps are next on the list of suspects.

If you're serious about tracking the car then this problem will probably need to be addressed on a couple different fronts.

Talk to @Jake@ptf about a map specifically for road coursing the car and, if it is allowed by your sanctioning body, methanol injection. The chemical cooling effects meth injection offers is awesome.

Then look into running a better oil cooler setup than the stock unit. I know @MDORPHN has a really slick setup on his 1M and he probably is one of(if not THE) top track guys on the forums. So you may want to talk to him.

Thanks for the reply. Could you help me understand how hot cats kill power? Are they heating up the block, and therefore the oil? Would you expect power to begin fluctuating as I'm experiencing at 260* on the gauge?

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Scott B

Thanks for the reply. Could you help me understand how hot cats kill power? Are they heating up the block, and therefore the oil? Would you expect power to begin fluctuating as I'm experiencing at 260* on the gauge?

I didn't mean "catalytic converters" I meant "Charge Air Temps". The DME will begin reducing timing advance as charge air temps begin to climb.

[Scott B]

Originally Posted by Ænema

I didn't mean "catalytic converters" I meant "Charge Air Temps". The DME will begin reducing timing advance as charge air temps begin to climb.

That makes much more sense. Thanks.

[Florida650iGC]

Originally Posted by labedra

Hey guys, just loaded Stage 2+ FMIC Agressive, and I do see timing pull from my initial pulls 2nd -3rd gear but the last pull i don't see any timing pull which was in 4th gear. Is it possible that the ECU didn't adopt yet on the initial pulls?

My mods are:
VRSF 3" Catless DPs - just installed
VRSF 5 in Front Mount Intercooler
K&N Drop In filter
Stock Exhaust
BMS Oil Catch Can
ER Charge Pipe with Stock Diverter Valves
Car is 2008 335i e92 Manual Trans


Here is the file from 2nd to 3rd gear pull WOT (with timing pull)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ha9b10s81s610kx/datalog3.csv

Here is the 4th gear pull (last pull which shows no timing pull)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kma9332feued2g2/datalog4.csv

Will do more runs but the car is so fast dont want to end up in jail so have to find a good straight. Just need your thoughts.

LOL - This is why I cant post up any more logs till my Valentine 1 gets here!

Do a 3rd - 4th gear WOT pull, then when it shifts into 5th look at the speedo!!! I'm pretty sure the result of that would be the Beemer impounded and a trip to jail if busted at those speeds, or just hold down WOT and hope he never catches up (and you dont die trying to evade him in the process) lol

[Florida650iGC]

Originally Posted by Scott B

Thanks for the reply. Could you help me understand how hot cats kill power? Are they heating up the block, and therefore the oil? Would you expect power to begin fluctuating as I'm experiencing at 260* on the gauge?

I believe at 265* you'll hit limp mode, your teetering on the verge of limp mode and badly need an oil cooler (shitty for u the 07 didnt have one stock)

Mine oil temp always runs about 230* now with my Helix FMIC (Yes, the FMIC dropped my OIL temps about 10+ degrees) If I beat on it like hell it'll get up to maybe 245*, and this is with 100*+ Ambient air temps and the stock oil cooler.

My only cooling upgrade is the Helix, which by the way, I found the fitment of to be a POS and I would not buy it again for that reason. They should be ashamed for claiming it to be "direct fit, no cutting required" that statement is complete bu****it, and I couldn't even finish putting the shit in w/o going to the hardware store for fender washers, heavily modifying the mounting brackers with a drill/grinder, and trimming the hell out of the plastic in front of the intercooler to get it in. Oh yea, and the Hard J pipe was too long, and 90* bent hose was too long too. Literally the only part of the kit which didn't need modifying was the straight silicon hose, and it was 1/4" too short!

[litxus]

Not sure if the question was asked and I did search. Can you reset all service info with COBB? Like oil change, brakes etc...? It mentions that COBB reads ECU codes and can clear them, although did not find any about service info. Of course all service info can be reset manually, but just checking if COBB can do that too.

[enrita]

Originally Posted by litxus

Not sure if the question was asked and I did search. Can you reset all service info with COBB? Like oil change, brakes etc...? It mentions that COBB reads ECU codes and can clear them, although did not find any about service info. Of course all service info can be reset manually, but just checking if COBB can do that too.

no but you can do that directly through the car computer or bt cable or inpa

[E90Company]

Originally Posted by 335XI///M

I believe at 265* you'll hit limp mode, your teetering on the verge of limp mode and badly need an oil cooler (shitty for u the 07 didnt have one stock)

Mine oil temp always runs about 230* now with my Helix FMIC (Yes, the FMIC dropped my OIL temps about 10+ degrees) If I beat on it like hell it'll get up to maybe 245*, and this is with 100*+ Ambient air temps and the stock oil cooler.

My only cooling upgrade is the Helix, which by the way, I found the fitment of to be a POS and I would not buy it again for that reason. They should be ashamed for claiming it to be "direct fit, no cutting required" that statement is complete bu****it, and I couldn't even finish putting the shit in w/o going to the hardware store for fender washers, heavily modifying the mounting brackers with a drill/grinder, and trimming the hell out of the plastic in front of the intercooler to get it in. Oh yea, and the Hard J pipe was too long, and 90* bent hose was too long too. Literally the only part of the kit which didn't need modifying was the straight silicon hose, and it was 1/4" too short!

That sucks to hear. I have the Helix and 09+ pipe as well and didn't have any of those problems.

[acj75]

Depending on the type of driving I'm doing, I've been switching between stg 0 and stg 1 aggressive LT with no issues for a few months.

Yesterday, I switched to stg 1 aggressive LT and did a few 3rd gear pulls. Each time triggered a limp mode with reduced power and a p30ff boost leak code. I went out and did a couple pulls today, this time with logs.

I'm not experienced with interpreting logs, but I wanted to see what you guys think.

[Florida650iGC]

Originally Posted by E90Company

That sucks to hear. I have the Helix and 09+ pipe as well and didn't have any of those problems.

That's what I thought, especially after all the positive stuff i've heard on here.

Issues

1. No Washers were supplied in the "Kit" & the hole in the mounting tabs is so big the bolt goes right through without a 1.25" washer with only a 1/4" hole in the center.

2. The plastic in front of the intercooler prevents it from moving forward enough for the back to be flush with the radiator (only an issue I suppose is you intend to put the Rad fan back in LOL) In other words, quite to the contrary of Helix's claim to fame.... Cutting was/is required of the car... Really sux, because this was a main reason for going with Helix

3. After trimming the plastic, the intercooler still does not move forward enough to be flush with the radiator allowing the fan to fit back into place, cutting about 1/2" slot into the mounting tab was required to move the intercooler into the correct position.

4. The hard J pipe was literally 3" too long and would not fit at all. I had to bust out the hacksaw at 1am and cut that bitch to have any hope of driving to work in the AM.

5. The 90* Elbow was also too long, and was interfering with all the stuff in that area in general, the space there is at a premium, and this was unacceptable. Had to be trimmed also to fit in the given space.

6. This leaves only the straight silicone hose, which I was sure wouldn't be right by this point. So I took measurements to cut it to length, and it needed to be 6 1/4" long.... Too bad it was only 6". So I didnt have to cut it, but now my clamps have literally less than 1mm between the edge of the clamp and end of the hose because of it being 1/4" too short.

Long & Short of it - IMHO the fitment of the Helix FMIC is total shit and I wish I would have bought any other IC because of it. Namley COBB or HPF 5" maybe, all in all thought now that it's in my hacked up car it seems to be doing it's job pretty well....

Sorry for the rant but that whole indecent really irritated me... If anyone here needs a new FMIC I suggest you not get the Helix, unless fitment is of no concern to you.

[matty088]

Originally Posted by Jonjt

I've seen my N54 pull timing, presumably because of high IATs (ambient at 95 F or higher). The oil gets hotter but, stays just under 250 F. This is with street driving, though.

My Cobb will be here tomorrow. How do I know if my car is pulling timing? It is completely stock as it stands right now. What else should I look for in terms of the car running correctly. How will I know if I am getting misfires?

Tks.