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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Preping 335i for Track worthyness - IAT/Cooling
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08-05-2010, 11:10 PM | #67 |
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This is true as long as oil and coolant temperatures don't go above a certain level... After that, you start to lose 1 PSI of boost for every 10 - 15 degrees.
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08-06-2010, 01:53 AM | #69 |
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Hood vents will have a negligible effect.
Turbo blankets Coated headers wrapped or coated test pipes motul mocool or water wetter any aftermarket thermostats for n54? Wrapping the turbos and test pipes in my Z made a HUGE difference. |
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08-06-2010, 03:05 AM | #70 | |
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Doubling the oilcooler size (I have the VK oilcooler with Setrab core) only helps to a certain extend when the airflow is not increased. A lot of air will increase its performance. I have the power kit, the vk oilcooler and the ETS FMIC and I still have too high temps on the track. And I do not have even any engine tune! The DCT is partly to blame for this as well IMO, as this generates a lot of heat as well. 1st I will try the additional air flow with the 335Is intakes which should dramatically increase the flow to the oilcooler and to the 2nd watercooler (power kit) installed at the driver side. 2nd I will try the different coolant. 3th is to install a performance radiator. Only when I have the temps under control I start thinking in increasing power. |
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08-06-2010, 03:20 AM | #71 | |
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The other point he mentioned is a upgraded radiator due to the fact that the turbos are both water and oil cooled so that the upgrade of the OC only is not the optimal solution even so the water temps will not reach the limit for a limp mode. |
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08-06-2010, 06:56 AM | #72 |
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I have to say that as much as I love this car, it is not intended for track use. By the time we spend the $ with all the cooling and performance upgrades, we could have just bought an M3 and been done with it.
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08-06-2010, 07:09 AM | #73 |
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would not say it like that, 335 is still cheaper, also to run. For a dedicated trackcar you are right, but when doing 15k miles a year daily driving and 10 trackdays...
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08-06-2010, 01:40 PM | #74 |
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08-06-2010, 03:21 PM | #75 | |||||||
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It's been beaten to death on the forums, but no denying the 335 is lighter, better balance (weight distribution), more torque and thus quicker down low. In my book a better street car. On the track the M3 is great right out of the box, handles great (with camber plates) and will run laps all day without breaking a sweat. BMW really did hit each target well. I needed to tow the kart, so bought a 335, now have to live with this one issue, but overall I'm very happy with the car, and for me, my needs, my life, it's still the better fit than an M3.
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08-09-2010, 07:18 AM | #77 | |
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I was just informed that in Europe the dealers cannot (will not) provide these parts Would be good if somebody in the states tries this |
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08-09-2010, 07:18 AM | #78 | |
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I was just informed that in Europe the dealers cannot (will not) provide these parts Would be good if somebody in the states tries this To me the bumper looks like a standard Mtech bumper but without foglights. Would not know why this would not fit. |
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08-09-2010, 07:52 AM | #79 |
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You don't get my point. 115 Deg Celsius water temps are not "fine" although you don't get a limp mode. The target of the ECU with respect to the water temps is 90-95 degree Celsius under continuous full load!
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08-09-2010, 10:41 AM | #80 |
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UPDATE: although in Germany a BMW dealer said they could not deliver these parts, here in Switzerland it is no problem. They where a bit surprised as the parts where not listed in their catalog and that the parts had to come from Münich, but it was no problem to order. Will arrive in a week or so
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08-09-2010, 12:53 PM | #81 | |
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Theoretically, since water has a specific heat of 2x that of oil, given the same surface area and temperature differential(between the oil/water and the air), the amount of heat removed is twice that of an oil cooler. Since our turbos are probably whats causing most of the heat and are cooled by both water and oil, it means that cooling down just one of them will definately have an effect on the other. We just need to remove as much heat as possible from the system via water or oil. |
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08-09-2010, 04:43 PM | #82 | |
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08-09-2010, 04:56 PM | #83 | |
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As far as I know they've never fully solved the heat related limp issues on that car, but Ralph is so freakin' fast and it's pretty much the only car competing in HS that they don't need to push the entire race. |
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08-09-2010, 05:28 PM | #84 | |
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From heat exchanger theory, Heat flux (W, BTU/min) = U * A * dT(LM) U is the overall heat transfer coefficient for the heat exchanger determined by heat exchanger metal properties, fluid properties, velocities, etc., A is heat transfer area, and dT is the temperature difference (log mean) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Log_mea...ure_difference Specific heat only enters into the overall heat transfer coefficient. Water is a much better heat carrier due to its high specific heat. This means for a given heat duty, water will have a lower change in temperature than oil. This is good for heat exchange because the temperature difference is what drives the flow of heat. I agree, water is the better heat exchange medium. However, the effect is not nearly 2x. If you're trying to cool the oil the most direct method is an oil/air heat exchanger. Cooling the water/glycol will indirectly cool the oil by cooling the engine block but if oil temps are your problem cool the oil first.
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08-09-2010, 05:53 PM | #85 | |
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08-09-2010, 07:04 PM | #86 | |
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ECU high points for temp are 148C for oil and 117C for water. Above those respective temps, air conditioner and engine power are progressively reduced. Below those temps the engine is at full power. So although we both agree that 115 is high, the ECU considers 115 fine. In fact, at 90C on the highway the ECU considers the temp too cold, combustion too ineffecient, and reduces the electric water pump cycle in order to raise the temp. Both of my 335i's (both 2007 E90's, one 6AT, one 6MT) ran at or just over 100C as normal around town operating temp (when they were both stock). Any hard driving at all and they were easily up in the 105-110 range. These engines simply run hot. If you recall, they actually had to change the oil temp guage/graduation range on the first model years because they had the "middle" of the guage at a more typical 100 or 110, and people were concerned because they were always showing 10-20C over.
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Last edited by Ironring Racing; 08-09-2010 at 07:18 PM.. |
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08-09-2010, 07:13 PM | #87 | |
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Last edited by zsapphire7; 08-09-2010 at 07:28 PM.. |
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08-09-2010, 07:19 PM | #88 |
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One place is the BMW Engine Management .pdf at the top of this 335i forum.
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