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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > UPDATED - Engine Swap - 335D Crankshaft Main Bearings and Bolts Question



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      01-16-2019, 11:15 PM   #89
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The 5000 does seem like a pretty good deal including the engine....good luck on the CAPS.....but I really feel like they are machined specific, esp seeing they cant be bought separate.
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      01-17-2019, 11:45 AM   #90
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Thanks. I'll send these over to my guy and see what he thinks.
Sounds good. Keep me posted on what you decide to do.
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      01-17-2019, 11:48 AM   #91
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Replied.
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      01-17-2019, 12:39 PM   #92
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Good News?
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      01-17-2019, 01:26 PM   #93
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Good News?
I'll be shipping him one end cap tomorrow. I really do hope it will resolve his issue.

It should also confirm whether swapping end caps is a feasible solution should someone else run into a similar situation. I'm skeptical it will work but really hoping for the best as I've been in that exact same situation.
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      01-17-2019, 01:27 PM   #94
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They are interchangeable according to the shop.

Do you have any pics?

Here's mine
Did the shop ever determine the root cause of the issue?
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      01-17-2019, 01:47 PM   #95
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They are interchangeable according to the shop.

Do you have any pics?

Here's mine
Did the shop ever determine the root cause of the issue?
Not really. The only possible explanation iv come across is low oil or driving hard after start up when the engine is cold.

Hard to say.
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      01-17-2019, 03:33 PM   #96
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Not really. The only possible explanation iv come across is low oil or driving hard after start up when the engine is cold.

Hard to say.
Unfortunately, this isn't the first. There appears to be a bad batch of bearings in some '11 335d...there have been a few incidents reported on the Facebook group
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      01-17-2019, 03:37 PM   #97
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Not really. The only possible explanation iv come across is low oil or driving hard after start up when the engine is cold.

Hard to say.
Unfortunately, this isn't the first. There appears to be a bad batch of bearings in some '11 335d...there have been a few incidents reported on the Facebook group
Which group is that? I'm not even on FB.

The other thing I was thinking is whether the failure is related to the timing chain? Apparently mine was stretched. I haven't seen it though.

I also wonder if the oil change intervals are too far apart, 10k miles. I always had mine changed on time and always at the dealer.

I wanna drive this fucking car through BMWs lobby.
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      01-17-2019, 04:28 PM   #98
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Unfortunately, this isn't the first. There appears to be a bad batch of bearings in some '11 335d...there have been a few incidents reported on the Facebook group
Any chance of somebody aggregating that info here with production dates of the cars with confirmed bad bearings?
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      01-17-2019, 05:23 PM   #99
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Which group is that? I'm not even on FB.

The other thing I was thinking is whether the failure is related to the timing chain? Apparently mine was stretched. I haven't seen it though.

I also wonder if the oil change intervals are too far apart, 10k miles. I always had mine changed on time and always at the dealer.

I wanna drive this fucking car through BMWs lobby.
I don't think it's the interval. I run 10K OCI on t6 and run oil analysis every other oil change. Never a concern around elevated metals...in fact below avg, suggesting I try a 12k OCI. I am just not comfortable going that long with all the soot in oil

It's the only reason I FB...North America BMW Diesel Owners Group

Last edited by dmanb2b; 01-17-2019 at 05:37 PM..
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      01-17-2019, 05:25 PM   #100
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Any chance of somebody aggregating that info here with production dates of the cars with confirmed bad bearings?
I had asked, but never got an answer. I can put up a post and see if we get any data. My '11 is a early build (5/10) so hoping it's not in same boat.
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      01-17-2019, 05:40 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pep423 View Post
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Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
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Originally Posted by Pep423 View Post
Not really. The only possible explanation iv come across is low oil or driving hard after start up when the engine is cold.

Hard to say.
Unfortunately, this isn't the first. There appears to be a bad batch of bearings in some '11 335d...there have been a few incidents reported on the Facebook group
Which group is that? I'm not even on FB.

The other thing I was thinking is whether the failure is related to the timing chain? Apparently mine was stretched. I haven't seen it though.

I also wonder if the oil change intervals are too far apart, 10k miles. I always had mine changed on time and always at the dealer.

I wanna drive this fucking car through BMWs lobby.
North American Diesel Owners Group on Facebook. Great for getting faster responses from people but horrible to search for any existing information unfortunately.
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      01-17-2019, 05:45 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pep423 View Post
Which group is that? I'm not even on FB.

The other thing I was thinking is whether the failure is related to the timing chain? Apparently mine was stretched. I haven't seen it though.

I also wonder if the oil change intervals are too far apart, 10k miles. I always had mine changed on time and always at the dealer.

I wanna drive this fucking car through BMWs lobby.
I don't think it's the interval. I run 10K OCI on t6 and run oil analysis every other oil change. Never a concern around elevated metals...in fact below avg, suggesting I try a 12k OCI. I am just not comfortable going that long with all the soot in oil

It's the only reason I FB...North America BMW Diesel Owners Group
It could potentially be the interval but that would largely also depend on things like any pre-existing issues and type of oil used. Not all oils are created equal.

Proper lubrication is key and can't be underestimated. Personally, I do my oil changes every 5k miles despite that my oil analysis reports suggested going up to 8k (never sent in a sample at 8k so I have no idea if I could stretch my OCI up to or past 10k).

Side note: anyone see Mobil 1's new commercials for their "annual protection" line? They are suggesting it's good for up to 30k miles IIRC. Not sure how they can make that claim for all vehicles but I'd never subject my car to an OCI that long....
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      01-18-2019, 01:56 PM   #103
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I once bought a Buick V6 with a bad harmonic balancer that destroyed the main bearings. You might want to look yours over closely. And I think when they make an engine, they bolt the unmachined main caps to the unmachined main saddles, torque them to spec, and then line bore for the main bearings. They number the caps so if it's ever disassembled the caps go back on the saddle it was machined with.
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      01-18-2019, 02:01 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bagman View Post
I once bought a Buick V6 with a bad harmonic balancer that destroyed the main bearings. You might want to look yours over closely. And I think when they make an engine, they bolt the unmachined main caps to the unmachined main saddles, torque them to spec, and then line bore for the main bearings. They number the caps so if it's ever disassembled the caps go back on the saddle it was machined with.
My harmonic balancer was replaced by the dealer after they thought that is what was making the noise in the first place. It doesn't look that bad to me. Iv seen much worse condition others have posted of their pulley.
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      01-18-2019, 02:39 PM   #105
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Its important to torque the bolts properly on the HB....they can cause a LOT of vibration....I can see how that could cause a lot of issues, esp to that end cap.
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      01-18-2019, 06:12 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pep423 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagman View Post
I once bought a Buick V6 with a bad harmonic balancer that destroyed the main bearings. You might want to look yours over closely. And I think when they make an engine, they bolt the unmachined main caps to the unmachined main saddles, torque them to spec, and then line bore for the main bearings. They number the caps so if it's ever disassembled the caps go back on the saddle it was machined with.
My harmonic balancer was replaced by the dealer after they thought that is what was making the noise in the first place. It doesn't look that bad to me. Iv seen much worse condition others have posted of their pulley.
Your harmonic balancer does indeed look good from the picture. Sometimes though looks can be deceiving. If it was defective in another way (aside from the well documented tearing), the it could have had an effect on the bearings. Replacing the balancer could have solved the root of the problem, but the damage was already done (assuming the balancer was the issue).
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      01-18-2019, 06:14 PM   #107
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Its important to torque the bolts properly on the HB....they can cause a LOT of vibration....I can see how that could cause a lot of issues, esp to that end cap.
Yeah, the issue he has is indeed with the first end cap (which is closest to the balancer). If any bearing were to wear out prematurely or spin from those vibrations, it would most likely be the first one.
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      01-18-2019, 06:16 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bagman View Post
I once bought a Buick V6 with a bad harmonic balancer that destroyed the main bearings. You might want to look yours over closely. And I think when they make an engine, they bolt the unmachined main caps to the unmachined main saddles, torque them to spec, and then line bore for the main bearings. They number the caps so if it's ever disassembled the caps go back on the saddle it was machined with.
That was my understanding of the end caps as well. These were indeed numbered on the reverse side. Still hoping OP has success with replacing his.
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      01-18-2019, 08:01 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexit4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagman View Post
I once bought a Buick V6 with a bad harmonic balancer that destroyed the main bearings. You might want to look yours over closely. And I think when they make an engine, they bolt the unmachined main caps to the unmachined main saddles, torque them to spec, and then line bore for the main bearings. They number the caps so if it's ever disassembled the caps go back on the saddle it was machined with.
That was my understanding of the end caps as well. These were indeed numbered on the reverse side. Still hoping OP has success with replacing his.
I'll probably find out by mid next week. Depends on when the main bearing gets in. Shop had to order from Germany.

Btw, your are the OP. Sorry for hijacking your thread
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      01-18-2019, 10:06 PM   #110
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I'll probably find out by mid next week. Depends on when the main bearing gets in. Shop had to order from Germany.

Btw, your are the OP. Sorry for hijacking your thread
Haha, indeed. Didnt even notice I typed that

Either way, I'm happy your chronicling your situation here. Should be great information for anyone who stumbles upon this thread in the future.
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