[Tambohamilton]

Not much to say about the 330d really. It being FI, the exhaust makes less difference. A decent remap on a completely stock engine will take you from 230hp to 300hp, approximately. That can be done with the DPF still functional. Above that you can go a bit further by adding a hybrid turbo, and I think it's at that level that the DPF needs to be removed (plenty remove it sooner, or even at stock power, but it's not necessary). The stock exhaust manifold is pretty nasty and can be replaced for a couple of extra ponies, but no major gains there either. I haven't seen any mention of modifying the exhaust behind the DPF at all, but people do it eventually. There's only a small box on the stock exhaust between the DPF and the rear muffler.

As for altering the exhaust for sound, I've never paid significant attention to that. I don't think we need to worry much about drone on the highway; 80mph is 2000rpm on a 6mt. And too much exhaust just results in tractor sounds eventually.

[Peter Morrin]

Tam, I am going to take my diesel questions over to your build page if you are still monitoring it.

What year is your wagon? Is it auto or manual? Is it RWD or xi. Is the diesel engine an M57 or N57?

Form your thread, you advised that the diesel engine was approximately equal in weight to the turbo 6 in the 335. Is the back of the wagon any heavier than the diesel sedan? Is the engine the only thing that makes the diesel heavier than the petrol equivalent?

I have a 328 sedan (salon) and I am trying to correlate comments from your build with Biginboca who has the 328 coupe. I can find total weight differences between cars, but not axle weight differences.

Peter

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

Tam, I am going to take my diesel questions over to your build page if you are still monitoring it.

What year is your wagon? Is it auto or manual? Is it RWD or xi. Is the diesel engine an M57 or N57?

Form your thread, you advised that the diesel engine was approximately equal in weight to the turbo 6 in the 335. Is the back of the wagon any heavier than the diesel sedan? Is the engine the only thing that makes the diesel heavier than the petrol equivalent?

I have a 328 sedan (salon) and I am trying to correlate comments from your build with Biginboca who has the 328 coupe. I can find total weight differences between cars, but not axle weight differences.

Peter

Sure, ask this over there

[bimmermech123]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

I sent a PM to Biginboca and received this response. I am posting it back to his thread for the benefit of all.

From Biginboca:

Yes slotting the strut mounts is perfectly safe and in my opinion advisable to do because it’s easy and free. I slotted mine about 1/4” (6mm) and gained about 1/2 degree of camber. The reason why I used the Dinan plates with the slot is I wanted extreme camber for track use. So you can stack different mods to get more camber, like I also made the slots larger by opening them a second time to about 1/2” total larger than oem size (~13mm) which allows about 1* camber gain. So with 1/2” slot, Dinan camber plates, M3 arms, and a f80 spindle I was able to get to -3.5 front camber without using adjustable camber plates.

The Dinan plates add 0.7* camber and they will make the fender gap approx 6mm higher (their top plate is about 6mm thick). And then 1/4” (6mm) of added a lot is approx 0.5* camber gain also. So if you do both you can expect about -1.2* on top of whatever camber you are running now.



I do have a question:
What is the limiting factor in how far in one can push the strut bearing to increase negative camber? Using conventional springs, I would have thought it was the spring contacting the inside face of the shock tower sheet metal. If this is the case, I am not sure what the Dinan (or fixed camber plates such as made by Tambohamilton) would do for you that slotting the tops of the strut tower would not.

Peter

I have a question in regards to slotting the strut towers for increased negative camber, what tool did you use to oval out the holes? A drill? A dremel? I saw the picture of the slotted holes on the first page of the thread and it's hard to tell.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by bimmermech123

I have a question in regards to slotting the strut towers for increased negative camber, what tool did you use to oval out the holes? A drill? A dremel? I saw the picture of the slotted holes on the first page of the thread and it's hard to tell.

Yep I used a dremel with a carbide cutting tool. Worked like a charm!

[72GMC]

Originally Posted by rothwem

Any thoughts about paint matching the hood and trunk? I feel like it would make the car look more complete.

Don't do it man, leave it just the way it is!
It's a perfect balance of tasteful, with a hint of badass.

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by 72GMC

Don't do it man, leave it just the way it is!
It's a perfect balance of tasteful, with a hint of badass.

Agree to disagree I guess, I'm a much bigger fan of flying under the radar. I like for modifications to mostly go unnoticed unless someone is an enthusiast and looks closely at the vehicle.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by rothwem

Agree to disagree I guess, I'm a much bigger fan of flying under the radar. I like for modifications to mostly go unnoticed unless someone is an enthusiast and looks closely at the vehicle.

I agree with this. That’s why I got a stock style carbon hood and a low profile carbon trunk. I was thinking I could paint them and have a pretty stock looking sleeper.

[335i54n]

no way thats gonna be a sleeper, if anything people gonna assume its an fbo 335i if anything

[Peter Morrin]

Ok, Since we are talking hoods, I have a question for the hot weather folks:

What is the current thinking on venting the hood behind the radiator to allow heated air to exhaust? It appears that the science is sound, although it would definintely not contribute to the sleepper look, and cutting into a carbon hood would require some guts.

I am wondering if hood vents would be a no-weight-gain solution to improved cooling. What I don't know is if there is an aerodynamic penalty on the highway at "Nevada" speeds.

Peter

[335i54n]

nope, unless the car and chassis were setup for that youre doing more harm than good. only time aftermarket hood vents work is if the chassis known to run hot, usually by cramming v8 or larger into a small engine bay.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by 335i54n

nope, unless the car and chassis were setup for that youre doing more harm than good. only time aftermarket hood vents work is if the chassis known to run hot, usually by cramming v8 or larger into a small engine bay.

I’m no engineer but I definitely agree with this. BMW spent a lot of time optimizing the aero on our cars, hence the weather stripping which mates the cowling to the hood and underbody panels.

By design these cars run hotter than what people seem to expect. It’s for fuel efficiency, not some unexpected cooling issue.

The radiator fan and cooling profiles work to keep the engines around 240-250*f. When people come from other platforms they seem to think that a larger radiator or cooling mods like high flow fan are needed. They aren’t needed, instead if you want to make the engine run cooler start with coding the radiator fans and water pump to run cooler.

Start with software that can make the difference not the hardware you’ll only be fighting the software. The only engine cooling mod I have done was add an oem N54 oil cooler and even with that I’m still running the oem oil thermostat and no software changes. I’ve not had any cooling issues with that set up even on the track (granted at sea level). At the end of a 20 mins session running 5500-7500rpms I’m seeing oil temps 260-265 tops and never had a limp mode.

[Peter Morrin]

Regarding monitoring engine temperature; What is everyone using? BMW in their wisdom chose to delete an engine temperature gauge from our E90 cluster.

I would be interested in monitoring water and oil temperature and would like a warning of loss of oil pressure.

Peter

[Tambohamilton]

I'm sure you'll get a warning if you lose oil pressure! You can use the hidden menu to see coolant temp, though it's annoying to set it every time

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

BMW in their wisdom chose to delete an engine temperature gauge from our E90 cluster.

The reason BMW deleted the gauge and/or substituted oil temp was once they installed electric water pump/thermostat which responds to engine temp needs (rather than running constantly) it resulted in very wide variations in temperature. This frightened owners who beat a path to their dealer to report something was wrong with their engine...when it wasn't.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

Regarding monitoring engine temperature; What is everyone using? BMW in their wisdom chose to delete an engine temperature gauge from our E90 cluster.

I would be interested in monitoring water and oil temperature and would like a warning of loss of oil pressure.

Peter

You can recode the fuel consumption gauge to read oil temperature instead. I set mine to match the l/100km labels (ie 0 = 0°C, 5 = 50°C, 10 = 100°C etc) which works nicely since the oil is close to 100°C at operating temperatures. I had no idea what I was doing but was able to follow the attached PDF and a couple threads on the topic.

You can enable the "secret menu" to show coolant temperatures, but it requires a lot of button pushing and you have to repeat it every drive: https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

My radiator fan is a little glitchy right now (code 2EFF) so I am using bimmer-tool app on my phone and a K+Dcan cable to monitor coolant temperature: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...hl=en_CA&gl=US

Note that the water pump operates in different modes to yield different coolant temperatures depending on the scenario:
• 112°C ECO mode (economy)
• 105°C Normal mode
• 95°C High mode
• 80°C High + mapped thermostat mode

Also worth knowing what temperatures are considered overheating. The car will start to reduce power at 117°C coolant or 148°C oil, then overheat at 125°C coolant or 158°C oil. See attached for more details.

[Biginboca]

Guy Fieri Great post there man! Appreciate you taking the time to compile all that info. Thank you!

[W37V]

Whats the mileage on your car now?

[Peter Morrin]

Alphonse,
I hope you were spared the worst of the recent storms. Has your racing season started up again with cooler weather? Any updates on the car?

[infinitenexus]

Hey, Biginboca,

since your home track closed, have you found a new one to frequent? Homestead, or maybe Sebring?

[aexlm]

aweosome build man! love it

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by W37V

Whats the mileage on your car now?

Hey, it’s been a while since I checked this thread. Cars at around 135k now.