[atschmale]

Originally Posted by tc535i

There's a thread on "the other forum" about how a 4mm line makes a bov respond much more quickly, replacing the whole system sounds like a good idea imo

4mm ~ 5/32in seems to be factory fit. Appreciate the reference. It's nice to have a case study to justify performance benefits.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by Atschmale

Awesome. Hoping for some similar results this weekend.

So you used 4mm? I've been seeing 4mm and 3.5. How did yours fit? Not sure what difference 0.5mm makes in this setting.

It fit fine but 3.5 is the spec. I bought it out of convenience and availability, to be honest...not for any other reason.

[GaryR13G]

Registered for this forum just to reply to this thread. First of all, thanks for all the information. Couple questions.

My Car:
335i 2007 Manual 108k miles
DCI, Borla Cat-back, and just added a Cobb tune

Symptoms:
Before I put the tune on, it would throw a 30FF if I did an extended pull on the highway(15 seconds or so). Now that I've upped the boost, it seems to fail around 13PSI consistently. But it builds to 13 very quickly. Only getting code 30FF.


I replaced the lines from the brake booster line over the intake to the vacuum canisters on the passenger side. If I take one of these vacuum lines off and apply pressure to the system, should it hold the pressure? Right now it slowly leaks down as I apply pressure. I have silicone lines on order to do the rest of them, just waiting for it to arrive and wanted to know if there was a way to test if they are leaking while I wait.

Anything else obvious I should check? The brake booster holds vacuum for a few hours after I park, and the lines over the intake were really shitty.

Thanks again.

[optigrab]

Just purchased. Chose this because of the 500F rating the other hoses were 350F.

Not sure what temp the factory BMW hoses are rated for. I should be using a little hose this weekend i will report back

http://www.amazon.com/High-Performan.../dp/B009PYDZKY

[BrokenVert]

Hey I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to thank you guys for all of the information. I replaced my vac line a couple days ago and solved a lot of my wastegate and low boost issues.

You guys were right about this being tough with big hands! I had to remove the vac canisters, coolant expansion tank, and boost solenoids in order to reach the rear turbo and it took me a solid 45 minutes to deal with the front.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by GaryR13G

Symptoms:
Before I put the tune on, it would throw a 30FF if I did an extended pull on the highway(15 seconds or so). Now that I've upped the boost, it seems to fail around 13PSI consistently. But it builds to 13 very quickly. Only getting code 30FF.


I replaced the lines from the brake booster line over the intake to the vacuum canisters on the passenger side. If I take one of these vacuum lines off and apply pressure to the system, should it hold the pressure? Right now it slowly leaks down as I apply pressure. I have silicone lines on order to do the rest of them, just waiting for it to arrive and wanted to know if there was a way to test if they are leaking while I wait.

Anything else obvious I should check? The brake booster holds vacuum for a few hours after I park, and the lines over the intake were really shitty.

Thanks again.

I am having the same issue under load and high RPMs. All the accessible vacuum lines are new and I'm awaiting silicone for the wastegate actuators. If I remove the booster line immediately after turning the car off I hear it suck air in, if I wait 5 minutes it does not do anything. What is acceptable? Are all of the healthy cars holding vacuum for a couple hours?

[FL335]

Just replaced all of my lines with silicone tubing from

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com

Was able to access all except the front wastegate. I will need to do a little more part removal to access and be able to cut the existing line.

This is well worth the time and effort. The car runs smooth...night and day. 72k on it.

This first started off because my tuner was not able to get my car to hit target boost...suggested I start with vacuum lines and checking CP o-ring.

GL. Highly recommend anyone with 70k+ do this...drink beer while doing it too...makes it more fun.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by FL335

Just replaced all of my lines with silicone tubing from

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com

Was able to access all except the front wastegate. I will need to do a little more part removal to access and be able to cut the existing line.

This is well worth the time and effort. The car runs smooth...night and day. 72k on it.

This first started off because my tuner was not able to get my car to hit target boost...suggested I start with vacuum lines and checking CP o-ring.

GL. Highly recommend anyone with 70k+ do this...drink beer while doing it too...makes it more fun.

Just an FYI, your wastegate actuators are metal so you can yank that line. It should come off in one piece since its braided. That's how I did it. Getting it on is kinda tough with limited movement but it's possible.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

Just an FYI, your wastegate actuators are metal so you can yank that line. It should come off in one piece since its braided. That's how I did it. Getting it on is kinda tough with limited movement but it's possible.

Much thanks. The rear was doable but the front was still a little too "warm" I'll tackle the front tomorrow am....I really like the silicone lines. Highly recommend for all "higher" mileage cars. I did them all...right side too....

[TrollToll]

Definitely wait until it's totally cold. You knitted by now that the turbos retain heat for a while. It's interesting that the rear was easier. I was able to do the front, but my arm was too big to reach the rear so I had to describe to my girlfriend what needed to be done and she changed it.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

Definitely wait until it's totally cold. You knitted by now that the turbos retain heat for a while. It's interesting that the rear was easier. I was able to do the front, but my arm was too big to reach the rear so I had to describe to my girlfriend what needed to be done and she changed it.

The rear is easier to do with your left arm. Pull the coolant expansion tank and lay down on top of the motor.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

The rear is easier to do with your left arm. Pull the coolant expansion tank and lay down on top of the motor.

I was doing this on a 5 series, so maybe it's a little different.

[FL335]

I used my left hand on the rear. I was flying blind but was able to reach and cut it off using a small blade. The front, I am going to remove the vacuum canisters and yank it off...it could be tough but we'll see.

[tofu?]

Originally Posted by FL335

I used my left hand on the rear. I was flying blind but was able to reach and cut it off using a small blade. The front, I am going to remove the vacuum canisters and yank it off...it could be tough but we'll see.

see if you can get a little razor blade down there. you don't want to end up yanking it off and it tears, leaving a bit of rubber stuck on the nipple. then you have no leverage to pull the stuck pieces off.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by tofu?

see if you can get a little razor blade down there. you don't want to end up yanking it off and it tears, leaving a bit of rubber stuck on the nipple. then you have no leverage to pull the stuck pieces off.

I was able to get it off....getting the new line is another story....what a royal PIA. I beat up both of my hands doing it....

[mg4734]

Just got my blue Verocious lines. This stuff looks super thick... does it still fit in all of the clips that hold the line in place? Going to tackle the project this weekend.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by mg4734

Just got my blue Verocious lines. This stuff looks super thick... does it still fit in all of the clips that hold the line in place? Going to tackle the project this weekend.

I dont like that thickness, esp for my wastegates. There are some great 7mm od ones out there incl. from pelican by continental and on ebay, made in germany.

[chinko]

Any quality brand in Canada? Verocious is about 10$ for 10feet but charges 27$ shipping.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by chinko

Any quality brand in Canada? Verocious is about 10$ for 10feet but charges 27$ shipping.

Have you tried Amazon? I did this and it was enough for all except the diverter valves. I used $3 rubber for those since they are easily accessible and on the cooler side of the engine.

High Performance Silicone Vacuum Hose - 10 feet - .1375" ID (3.5mm) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PYDR6G..._q2xmwbEC65K7W

[e92days]

Originally Posted by chinko

Any quality brand in Canada? Verocious is about 10$ for 10feet but charges 27$ shipping.

IMO that isn't bad considering it was going to cost me $70 to order several feet of the braided tubing that runs to the DV's. My lines were brittle and broke when I took them off to check CP for leaks, they kept tearing before I could get them back on and now there's barely any tubing left.

My other problem is I still get WG rattle and get 30ff with Cobb installed so I think I might just replace all lines. I've never gotten 30ff when uninstalled unless it was right after uninstall and boost levels were still lowering. I had both turbos and WG replaced under warranty. Uninstalled the cobb AP for the repair and reinstalled and still getting 30ff. I figured I would just tell them it worked and try to fix it on my own so that's where I'm left. My warranty is expired now. boohoo

[chinko]

I'll probably go with the one from amazon as was mentionned by optigrab and Yournamehere90, comes to a total of 26$ shipped.
The verocious ones aren't really expensive, but doesn't make sense to pay 26$ shipping for a 10$ product. I just hope the amazon one with similar specs are as good. I'm replacing the vacuum lines especially the ones near the oil filter housing as I'm having the half engine malfunction at 5k rpm and they look rotted.

[FL335]

Originally Posted by e92days

IMO that isn't bad considering it was going to cost me $70 to order several feet of the braided tubing that runs to the DV's. My lines were brittle and broke when I took them off to check CP for leaks, they kept tearing before I could get them back on and now there's barely any tubing left.

My other problem is I still get WG rattle and get 30ff with Cobb installed so I think I might just replace all lines. I've never gotten 30ff when uninstalled unless it was right after uninstall and boost levels were still lowering. I had both turbos and WG replaced under warranty. Uninstalled the cobb AP for the repair and reinstalled and still getting 30ff. I figured I would just tell them it worked and try to fix it on my own so that's where I'm left. My warranty is expired now. boohoo

Have you pulled out and cleaned your Vanos Solenoids? I ended up replacing mine and all codes went away. Car runs great!