[S65Hunter]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Motor and tranny mounts. Left the oil pan/guibo/stupid rounded tranny fill plug alone. Just too tired to tackle those now.

How long did the motor mounts take you? I bought a motor support bar and plan on doing the motor mounts soon.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by AlpineE93

How long did the motor mounts take you? I bought a motor support bar and plan on doing the motor mounts soon.

Three hours just to check everything and do it right. Check this video out, as I thought it was probably the best one on this very topic. Really goes into the bare minimum that's effective/safe. I basically did it the way he prescribes under jack stands. I used the support bar, but you honestly may not need it...and if you do, remember to tighten the bar as you lift with the jack or your bar is gonna get lifted and go all over the place.

You can perceivably lift from the back of the oil pan (near the drain plug) which makes sense since that's exactly at the same spot as the mounts (so more direct lift in the right spots).

[S65Hunter]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Three hours just to check everything and do it right. Check this video out, as I thought it was probably the best one on this very topic. Really goes into the bare minimum that's effective/safe. I basically did it the way he prescribes under jack stands. I used the support bar, but you honestly may not need it...and if you do, remember to tighten the bar as you lift with the jack or your bar is gonna get lifted and go all over the place.

You can perceivably lift from the back of the oil pan (near the drain plug) which makes sense since that's exactly at the same spot as the mounts (so more direct lift in the right spots).

That video made it look wayyyy easier than the video I first watched. The one I watched uses the engine bar, and lowers the subframe and made it seem like a 6 hour job.

[3PedalJake]

Got all the bushings out of my low-miles Cali subframe. There are 11 in all, of 6 different part numbers. 2 front body mounts, 2 rear body mounts, 2 control arm bushings, 2 trailing arm bushings, 2 front differential bushings and 1 rear differential bushing. The body mounts and front diff bushings are getting replaced with M3 bushings, the rest gets new OEM Lemforders.

They were all fairly easy as this subframe is almost pristine with no rust, they really didn't need to be replaced except for the M3 upgrade and I had already bought the rest. All but the front body mounts could have been done with DIY hardware store threaded rods and pipe couplers and the like. The front body mount really needs the special tool, I read threads about ppl burning them out with torches and beating them with hammers and stuff, which is about your only options without this gizmo. The subframe only exposes a tiny sliver of the flange to give the receiver cup a place to push against. I got a tool from a ebay seller that has a ring with little notches cut to grab that area and push the bushing out. It was $60 and worth every penny. Now to get them cleaned up and press the new ones in,,,

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

If you ever come up here lmk! We can split a suite up in Telluride. There's a spot I just found out from a customer at work that's incredibly nice. Look up it up, 445 Depot

https://www.latitude38vacationrental...prospect-point

Looks nice I'm in

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by AlpineE93

That video made it look wayyyy easier than the video I first watched. The one I watched uses the engine bar, and lowers the subframe and made it seem like a 6 hour job.

VehicularDIY? Yeah, that guy is normally my go-to. But this one just makes sense and keeps all the nannys safe (or again, you can just add-one on for security). If it were a VAG with a plastic oil pan, it'd be different.

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by E92William

You're 3D printing the whole air box yourself?

Maybe.

There's just enough build plate area on my printer to print an enclosure for it.

I really just want to hear the induction noise of the euro intake with the lid off, just to see how good it sounds. The euro airbox can be run with the lid off as it doesn't impact the filter retention, unlike the USA spec box.

I may just begin by printing a housing to hold the filter so it seals and is secure, but have it open, and then later come back and design a box for it.

Once the part on the printer now is done ( a paddle shifter housing for a fsae car ) ill send a picture of the euro filter on the build plate.

Also, school classes are about to begin so I may end up MIA again once things get hectic, so we'll see if this materializes into anything.

Jon

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

Maybe.

There's just enough build plate area on my printer to print an enclosure for it.

I really just want to hear the induction noise of the euro intake with the lid off, just to see how good it sounds. The euro airbox can be run with the lid off as it doesn't impact the filter retention, unlike the USA spec box.

I may just begin by printing a housing to hold the filter so it seals and is secure, but have it open, and then later come back and design a box for it.

Once the part on the printer now is done ( a paddle shifter housing for a fsae car ) ill send a picture of the euro filter on the build plate.

Also, school classes are about to begin so I may end up MIA again once things get hectic, so we'll see if this materializes into anything.

Jon

Count me in as very curious about this...keep us posted.

Also count me in for someone who's about to take off his euro cover just to hear if it makes it that much more fun :P

[E92William]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

Maybe.

There's just enough build plate area on my printer to print an enclosure for it.

I really just want to hear the induction noise of the euro intake with the lid off, just to see how good it sounds. The euro airbox can be run with the lid off as it doesn't impact the filter retention, unlike the USA spec box.

I may just begin by printing a housing to hold the filter so it seals and is secure, but have it open, and then later come back and design a box for it.

Once the part on the printer now is done ( a paddle shifter housing for a fsae car ) ill send a picture of the euro filter on the build plate.

Also, school classes are about to begin so I may end up MIA again once things get hectic, so we'll see if this materializes into anything.

Jon

Definitely if you're gonna make one from scratch I would consider having a hole that can be covered or opened if desired if one would want to go for the Dinan intake mod. Is there even a file already available for it?

[freakystyly]

Driving without the euro cover does make some interesting howl but I don't recommend it long term. You can probably guess why, but it's worth fooling around with once in a blue moon.

[colorado.e9x]

Nice work on the subframe Jake! And sounds like a plan for Telly

I'd imagine it'd be safer to run the no lid in winter over anything, hard to have a lot of heat soak when its below freezing

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

Driving without the euro cover does make some interesting howl but I don't recommend it long term. You can probably guess why, but it's worth fooling around with once in a blue moon.

Oh absolutely, I definitely don't plan to leave it off but for the sprited drives I definitely want to hear it. Of course iats will take a beating though. The n52 absolutely rips when iats are below 40f.

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by E92William

Definitely if you're gonna make one from scratch I would consider having a hole that can be covered or opened if desired if one would want to go for the Dinan intake mod. Is there even a file already available for it?

There's not a file as far as I know, I'm just working on making one. I have the maf to filter section made already, just working on the retention mechanism.

[JonOhh]

Progress so far. Still not sure if this is gonna work our or if i'm gonna go through with it but we'll see how it goes!

I do not want to risk ruining my engine by having it ingest bits of plastic so I'll have to do some testing before I trust it for any extended amount of time. Hopefully my actual airbox will be here before too long.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Did some repairs of small things that individually don't doom a car but cumulatively add up to a trip to the crusher. Rusty brake line bracket, replacing the lines with copper-nickel. The threaded inserts on the bottom of the trunk liner that unscrewed along with their rusted bolts, got a assortment of those for $8 on ebay and replaced the corroded muffler heat shield.

Why not just go SS lines?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Got all the bushings out of my low-miles Cali subframe. There are 11 in all, of 6 different part numbers. 2 front body mounts, 2 rear body mounts, 2 control arm bushings, 2 trailing arm bushings, 2 front differential bushings and 1 rear differential bushing. The body mounts and front diff bushings are getting replaced with M3 bushings, the rest gets new OEM Lemforders.

They were all fairly easy as this subframe is almost pristine with no rust, they really didn't need to be replaced except for the M3 upgrade and I had already bought the rest. All but the front body mounts could have been done with DIY hardware store threaded rods and pipe couplers and the like. The front body mount really needs the special tool, I read threads about ppl burning them out with torches and beating them with hammers and stuff, which is about your only options without this gizmo. The subframe only exposes a tiny sliver of the flange to give the receiver cup a place to push against. I got a tool from a ebay seller that has a ring with little notches cut to grab that area and push the bushing out. It was $60 and worth every penny. Now to get them cleaned up and press the new ones in,,,

If you don't mind sharing the links to both tools you used, that would be awesome 😎

[Karlos20945]

In for a service and MOT today. Passed the MOT but the car will need two new rear shocks. Bilsteins ordered for next week.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you don't mind sharing the links to both tools you used, that would be awesome ��

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Why not just go SS lines?

I went with the "4LIFETIMES" copper-nickel because it's completely corrosion resistant but also much easier to bend and flare than SS, it's just easier to work with.

This is the special tool for the front subframe bushing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E82-E90...4/333158778716

I also used various adapters from these 2 kits, kind of mix and match as to which pieces worked best with which bushing, but could have found a way to DIY most of these if I didn't have the tools (glad I did it was easier).

Diff bushing tools: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIFFERENTIA...w/353306667518

Trailing and control arm tools: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...ian-autosport/

[Stephenj007]

Nothing major just did a fun start button install

[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by Karlos20945

In for a service and MOT today. Passed the MOT but the car will need two new rear shocks. Bilsteins ordered for next week.

Which Bilsteins? I put B4s on the back of the E46 and hated them so much I replaced them with B6s, much better. The B6s were lovely and not at all harsh. B4s far too soft, not what the reviews had been saying.

[Karlos20945]

Originally Posted by unixnerd

Which Bilsteins? I put B4s on the back of the E46 and hated them so much I replaced them with B6s, much better. The B6s were lovely and not at all harsh. B4s far too soft, not what the reviews had been saying.

The OEM spec ones, so I'm assuming the B4s? Anything will be better than the factory ones on there now. They're leaking oil, and bumps in the road cause the whole rear end to shimmy around. It's quite terrifying

[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by Karlos20945

The OEM spec ones, so I'm assuming the B4s? Anything will be better than the factory ones on there now. They're leaking oil, and bumps in the road cause the whole rear end to shimmy around. It's quite terrifying

B4s are black, B6 and above are yellow. Worth checking the anti-roll bar links while you're at it.