[Billit335]

+1 Ravi is the shit, I installed my radiator thus weekend. Perfect fit. One note on the auto , when removing the two small lines going to the tranny cooler , disconnect them by removing the torx bolts, not from the quick release tabs, much easier and you may break something.

[dlbrooks18]

Just read entire thread, any updates OP, still working out good for you at the track?

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by dlbrooks18

Just read entire thread, any updates OP, still working out good for you at the track?

A little preoccupied by work and vacation this summer, so haven't been to the track since June. But the radiator is working just fine the last time I was there. No limp mode despite having me beating on the car non stop during the entire day at 75F ambient temperature.

[dlbrooks18]

Cool thanks, looks solid.

[_ink]

Great review, glad I found this thread!!

Copy of questions:

Would it make sense to also upgrade the fan?

The Mishimoto is definitely not AT compatitable?

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by _ink

Great review, glad I found this thread!!

Copy of questions:

Would it make sense to also upgrade the fan?

The Mishimoto is definitely not AT compatitable?

Fans are useless once you are moving faster than 30-40mph

[_ink]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Fans are useless once you are moving faster than 30-40mph

Agreed, however with the TFT styled inlets (which i have) that relocate filters to the hot side of the engine, i was wondering if this would help with idling temps as well as in traffic driving.

[sk55]

Originally Posted by _ink

Agreed, however with the TFT styled inlets (which i have) that relocate filters to the hot side of the engine, i was wondering if this would help with idling temps as well as in traffic driving.

i think the engine bay hot all over i got inlets myself... why worry about idle? are your temps climbing during stop in go? make sure your coolant is 50/50 ....
better heat capacity.. i know my last idiot mechanic put 100% coolant i was over heating...

get a good FMIC.... thats what i did when my temps were climbing too much during PULLS.... so i dunno about idle... but if u have a JB4 you can just run the max coolant flow option.

[2fast4]

Originally Posted by sk55

i think the engine bay hot all over i got inlets myself... why worry about idle? are your temps climbing during stop in go? make sure your coolant is 50/50 ....
better heat capacity.. i know my last idiot mechanic put 100% coolant i was over heating...

get a good FMIC.... thats what i did when my temps were climbing too much during PULLS.... so i dunno about idle... but if u have a JB4 you can just run the max coolant flow option.

So then both fan and pump will be running max even at idle with the JB4/INPA/OFT etc? Not cut out over 30mph? If so, wouldn't this fix our infamous overheating problem at the track or heavy runs?

[=C=]

Originally Posted by The Convert

You won't see lower temps with the aftermarket radiators, just so you know.

As I predicted when mishimoto was designing theirs, the DME will just cycle the water pump less frequently because it is programmed to keep the water temp within a certain range.

If you guys want to run the coolant cooler, you really need to find the water pump logic and figure out how to adjust it.

This is the first car I have owned that does this with the water pump

[sk55]

Originally Posted by 2fast4

So then both fan and pump will be running max even at idle with the JB4/INPA/OFT etc? Not cut out over 30mph? If so, wouldn't this fix our infamous overheating problem at the track or heavy runs?

I was speaking strictly IAT temps and power... turbo compressor going to heat it up the air when it compresses.... and a really good FMIC will cool it down before it goes into the engine....

i think if IAT >125 you start engine will start pulling timing.. i notice when i had stock FMIC and inlets my temps were getting higher .... so i got a new FMIC...

[_ink]

Installing shortly

[Flex68]

Originally Posted by _ink

Installing shortly

Let us know how the install went I'm very keen to get one of these

[Cloud9blue]

Just FYI guys, this radiator works so well my car has problem reaching operating temp crushing on the highway while it is 0F out there. My oil temp barely hits 170F (Dinan single core oil cooler, stock oil thermostat) today for the two hour drive I took today and the heater barely works as well because the engine is so cold.

Gonna tape up the kidney grill and see if this gets better

[limitdown]

I also get great temps on extended stretches on the freeway with my CSF radiator. However, most of the time I'm driving in inner-city stop and go traffic in 90F+ ambient, so my temps still get higher than I'd like.
I'm hoping that Ken, Jake and others will crack the XDF tables for setting target temps.

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Got some pictures from CSF. Looks pretty good to me; it retained all the right connections for the auto transmission heat exchanger like stock AT radiator.

Just read through the whole thread.
Emailed Rave.

I need a radiator.
My expansion tank last week. Pinhole leak in the radiator seam of the top plastic on the drivers side.

Go aluminum and you'll never go back.
I had an aluminum radiator in my e36 M3. One of the best mosts I could have done.

[davidwarren]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Just FYI guys, this radiator works so well my car has problem reaching operating temp crushing on the highway while it is 0F out there. My oil temp barely hits 170F (Dinan single core oil cooler, stock oil thermostat) today for the two hour drive I took today and the heater barely works as well because the engine is so cold.

Gonna tape up the kidney grill and see if this gets better

When was the last time you replaced your thermostat? Sounds like it might be failing.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

When was the last time you replaced your thermostat? Sounds like it might be failing.

I can guarantee you it is not the thermostat. The coolant warms up very quickly in city driving with not much airflow over the radiator. Quite of few others has reported this issue as well.

Since these cars have electric water pump and thermostat instead of traditional mechanical ones, my bet is the software. The duty cycle for the water pump is too aggressive for extreme cold weather for cars with more efficient radiator.

Not much of solution for now unless someone finds the water pump and thermostat tables in the DME. Taping up the grilles work very well though. Lol.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

I can guarantee you it is not the thermostat. The coolant warms up very quickly in city driving with not much airflow over the radiator. Quite of few others has reported this issue as well.

Since these cars have electric water pump and thermostat instead of traditional mechanical ones, my bet is the software. The duty cycle for the water pump is too aggressive for extreme cold weather for cars with more efficient radiator.

Not much of solution for now unless someone finds the water pump and thermostat tables in the DME. Taping up the grilles work very well though. Lol.

Could you get a datalog of your coolant temp? Or do you know what coolant temps you are achieving on the highway? Simply curious what you get up to on a normal driving route.

Pretty impressive if the core is that efficient. Usually the only people you see you closing up their front grills is big rigs haha

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Could you get a datalog of your coolant temp? Or do you know what coolant temps you are achieving on the highway? Simply curious what you get up to on a normal driving route.

Pretty impressive if the core is that efficient. Usually the only people you see you closing up their front grills is big rigs haha

Well, the ambient temp is around 10-20F these days over here. The coolant temp is anywhere between 170F to 200F during normal driving in the city and highway. It takes about 5-10 mins of city driving for the coolant to get up to +160F, which I think is normal. Oil temp takes a bit longer when the weather gets cold, since I believe the stock oil thermostat still allow some bypass flow even in closed position.

IMO, a datalog of the coolant temp under normal driving is pretty pointless because you will have no way of knowing which cooling mode/target temp. the DME is requesting at the moment. But a warmup log might help, I will see what I can do, since we are suppose to see single digit weather again this weekend.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Well, the ambient temp is around 10-20F these days over here. The coolant temp is anywhere between 170F to 200F during normal driving in the city and highway. It takes about 5-10 mins of city driving for the coolant to get up to +160F, which I think is normal. Oil temp takes a bit longer when the weather gets cold, since I believe the stock oil thermostat still allow some bypass flow even in closed position.

IMO, a datalog of the coolant temp under normal driving is pretty pointless because you will have no way of knowing which cooling mode/target temp. the DME is requesting at the moment. But a warmup log might help, I will see what I can do, since we are suppose to see single digit weather again this weekend.

Well if you are on the highway and can't reach operating water temps (which are somewhere near 212 or 218 on this platform) it's definitely either very efficient or a malfunctioning thermostat.

It should be no surprise it's more efficient, otherwise what was the point of upgrading

I was just curious if you were getting to 212-218 on the highway. You need at least 180F to get some decent heat out of the heating system.

OIL always warms up slower then water. It's thicker and the transfer of heat is much slower.

My C67 has a 160 T Stat but the stock radiator isn't efficient enough to sustain that even in sub zero temps. Lowest I've gone on the highway is 172F. I notice the heat is not as strong on the highway till I get over 170F. The heat does get better if I get the coolant up to 180 or more. I rarely drive it in the winter though because I don't drive it in the salt.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Well if you are on the highway and can't reach operating water temps (which are somewhere near 212 or 218 on this platform) it's definitely either very efficient or a malfunctioning thermostat.

It should be no surprise it's more efficient, otherwise what was the point of upgrading

I was just curious if you were getting to 212-218 on the highway. You need at least 180F to get some decent heat out of the heating system.

OIL always warms up slower then water. It's thicker and the transfer of heat is much slower.

My C67 has a 160 T Stat but the stock radiator isn't efficient enough to sustain that even in sub zero temps. Lowest I've gone on the highway is 172F. I notice the heat is not as strong on the highway till I get over 170F. The heat does get better if I get the coolant up to 180 or more. I rarely drive it in the winter though because I don't drive it in the salt.

HVAC heating hasn't been an issue other than that one time I have to drive 2 hours in 0F weather to Madison, when the oil temp can't even stay above 170F. But I am not the only guy who noticed this. paradoxical3 reported the same issue with his CSF radiator as well on other forums. And his track prepped X1 (yes, a X1) with N55 is a little too new for thermostat problem. My car isn't exactly high mileage either, it just went over 50k miles last month.

That said, I don't think I ever hit +210F just cruising around on the highway when the temp is below freezing, ever since I installed the radiator last year (I also have the PPK aux radiator, and aftermarket oil cooler).

My theory is that the minimal duty cycle for the waterpump is just a touch too much for the radiator. Even if you are just bleeding 5-10% thermal energy than you are suppose to with these radiator at cold temp, things are gonna add up during a long drive on the highway if the DME doesn't account for it. Not sure what's the best way to prove this though with our limited access to the DME even after all these years.