[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

HVAC heating hasn't been an issue other than that one time I have to drive 2 hours in 0F weather to Madison, when the oil temp can't even stay above 170F. But I am not the only guy who noticed this. paradoxical3 reported the same issue with his CSF radiator as well on other forums. And his track prepped X1 (yes, a X1) with N55 is a little too new for thermostat problem. My car isn't exactly high mileage either, it just went over 50k miles last month.

That said, I don't think I ever hit +210F just cruising around on the highway when the temp is below freezing, ever since I installed the radiator last year (I also have the PPK aux radiator, and aftermarket oil cooler).

My theory is that the minimal duty cycle for the waterpump is just a touch too much for the radiator. Even if you are just bleeding 5-10% thermal energy than you are suppose to with these radiator at cold temp, things are gonna add up during a long drive on the highway if the DME doesn't account for it. Not sure what's the best way to prove this though with our limited access to the DME even after all these years.

That's a fair remark. I was more curious then anything else.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Just FYI guys, this radiator works so well my car has problem reaching operating temp crushing on the highway while it is 0F out there. My oil temp barely hits 170F (Dinan single core oil cooler, stock oil thermostat) today for the two hour drive I took today and the heater barely works as well because the engine is so cold.

Gonna tape up the kidney grill and see if this gets better

same here with stock radiator and oil cooler, temps stayed at 170, I was v happy but then I hit traffic jam and they went as high as 190, outside temp was single digit

would vented hood help ? I also have the acoustic engine cover, hood liner, undershield, all removed, not sure what else I can take off.. wanna drive without hood haha

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

same here with stock radiator and oil cooler, temps stayed at 170, I was v happy but then I hit traffic jam and they went as high as 190, outside temp was single digit

would vented hood help ? I also have the acoustic engine cover, hood liner, undershield, all removed, not sure what else I can take off.. wanna drive without hood haha

I guess you can't read...

[007_e350]

[/QUOTE=Cloud9blue;19387001]I guess you can't read...[/QUOTE]

maybe, but my temp also stayed at 170 last week with stock radiator .. so Wtf is your radiator doing that mine isnt

[Cloud9blue]

You are still not reading.

170f for what? Coolant? Oil? If it is coolant 170-190 is within the correct temp range. If it is oil, it is obviously way too cold.

Don't understand why the obsession with running super cold oil or coolant temp for street use. It doesn't benefit the performance of the engine by one bit. All you are doing is making the fuel consumption worse and causing unnecessary wear to the engine.

[007_e350]

[QUOtemploud9blue;19387145]You are still not reading.

170f for what? Coolant? Oil? If it is coolant 170-190 is within the correct temp range. If it is oil, it is obviously way too cold.

Don't understand why the obsession with running super cold oil or coolant temp for street use. It doesn't benefit the performance of the engine by one bit. All you are doing is making the fuel consumption worse and causing unnecessary wear to the engine.[/QUOTE]

oil temp on the dash

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

[QUOtemploud9blue;19387145]You are still not reading.

170f for what? Coolant? Oil? If it is coolant 170-190 is within the correct temp range. If it is oil, it is obviously way too cold.

Don't understand why the obsession with running super cold oil or coolant temp for street use. It doesn't benefit the performance of the engine by one bit. All you are doing is making the fuel consumption worse and causing unnecessary wear to the engine.

oil temp on the dash[/QUOTE]

So you think 190F oil temp is too high...... You do know water doesn't even boil until 212F, right?

[Team503]

So no vendors selling the CSF at this time? Still need to email ravidolwani@csfradiators.com to buy?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Team503

So no vendors selling the CSF at this time? Still need to email ravidolwani@csfradiators.com to buy?

Wee sell them and sold many. In stock and ship same day.

[Team503]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Wee sell them and sold many. In stock and ship same day.

Ordered.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Team503

So no vendors selling the CSF at this time? Still need to email ravidolwani@csfradiators.com to buy?

We offer them as well ... Radiator is on back order
Should be available this Friday

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Well if you are on the highway and can't reach operating water temps (which are somewhere near 212 or 218 on this platform) it's definitely either very efficient or a malfunctioning thermostat.

It should be no surprise it's more efficient, otherwise what was the point of upgrading

I was just curious if you were getting to 212-218 on the highway. You need at least 180F to get some decent heat out of the heating system.

OIL always warms up slower then water. It's thicker and the transfer of heat is much slower.

My C67 has a 160 T Stat but the stock radiator isn't efficient enough to sustain that even in sub zero temps. Lowest I've gone on the highway is 172F. I notice the heat is not as strong on the highway till I get over 170F. The heat does get better if I get the coolant up to 180 or more. I rarely drive it in the winter though because I don't drive it in the salt.

Operating temp is supposed to be near 212? My car never goes above 205 in normal driving.

[dquach93]

Originally Posted by Team503

So no vendors selling the CSF at this time? Still need to email ravidolwani@csfradiators.com to buy?

I got mine from Bimmerworld; speak to Brandon!

I believe all vendors drop ship from CSF

[gruvenon]

Is there a version that will fit an E93 335is?

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by gruvenon

Is there a version that will fit an E93 335is?

They all uses the same radiator. As a matter of fact, the IS model uses a slimmer fitting radiator fan, so you should actually have more room than the standard cars.

[gruvenon]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

They all uses the same radiator. As a matter of fact, the IS model uses a slimmer fitting radiator fan, so you should actually have more room than the standard cars.

Including the DCT? I heard there is some extra/different (than 6MT and AT) plumbing for DCT cooling.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by gruvenon

Including the DCT? I heard there is some extra/different (than 6MT and AT) plumbing for DCT cooling.

You heard wrong. Whoever told you that is probably thinking about the DCT cooling on the M3.

On the 335i and is, all 6AT and 7DCT has the same cooling setup for the transmission.

[limitdown]

Note that I had fitment issues with CSF's 6AT radiator and stock-location inlets. The front inlet was rubbing against the pulleys. Somehow my indy was able to get Hexon's front inlet to work for me.
Most people don't get thicker radiators, so vendors don't design their inlets around that.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by limitdown

Note that I had fitment issues with CSF's 6AT radiator and stock-location inlets. The front inlet was rubbing against the pulleys. Somehow my indy was able to get Hexon's front inlet to work for me.
Most people don't get thicker radiators, so vendors don't design their inlets around that.

Even without an aftermarket radiator, I have seen reports of belt rubbing with these stock style inlets.

You are better off running something like this if you don't want to relocate the coolant tank.

[IMG]http://www.european**********/attach...1&d=1423201623[/IMG]

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Even without an aftermarket radiator, I have seen reports of belt rubbing with these stock style inlets.

You are better off running something like this if you don't want to relocate the coolant tank.

[IMG]http://www.european**********/attach...1&d=1423201623[/IMG]

Pic

[jyeah]

Originally Posted by limitdown

Note that I had fitment issues with CSF's 6AT radiator and stock-location inlets. The front inlet was rubbing against the pulleys. Somehow my indy was able to get Hexon's front inlet to work for me.
Most people don't get thicker radiators, so vendors don't design their inlets around that.

I'm looking to get the radiator, too. I also have the stock location inlets. Would I run into the same problem?

[Team503]

My install is this coming weekend. I have relocated inlets, so I'm not worried, but I'll post updates when I have them.