[Alex@Alpine]

It is exactly the same, inside every ballast there is a low to high converter just like Camaross, your just doubling, turning off error message so you'll never know if something goes wrong.

Also you should google DC vs AC ballast, each one of my ballast cost me more then both of those, you should be getting massive heat inside the lamps, at least do not place the ballast inside the headlight. You should pay attention to the wires coming from the car, they are so thin, they will dry up and crack over time and should not be holding this much power, do trust if I could make a direct plug ballast my sales would triple, people always complain about wiring. It is not amp you should worry about at all, it is voltage, I know everyone has a "I know I'm right" personality, so do I, and I wish someone else would chime in so it doesnt look like I'm doing it for my own good.

Keep in mind, your force coding the car, in no way did BMW ever map the FRM to reach those voltages, changing the netto is a forum of passing the safety on coding so you do not code anything wrong.

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

The method that my solution uses is completely different then how Camaross HID kits worked. His kits did not increase the duty cycle and therefore ran at a (effective) lower voltage. The lower the voltage, the higher the current draw on the FRM.

I did before and after current measurements to make sure that the HIDs would not draw excess current.*

Stock: 3.8 amps per side at 9 volts
DDM HID: 3.3 amps per side at 13 volts*

The HIDs draw 0.5 amps less after coding.

I guess only time will tell. So far there have been ZERO failures, because believe me, if there was one, it would be posted here.

[Rotary Rasp]

I'm also changing the duty cycle, which Camaross kit does not. That is where the difference is (and matters).

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

It is exactly the same, inside every ballast there is a low to high converter just like Camaross, your just doubling, turning off error message so you'll never know if something goes wrong.

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

I'm also changing the duty cycle, which Camaross kit does not. That is where the difference is (and matters).

That makes it worst, those wires can not handle that type of power, once again your force coding the car, please do me a favor, take your heat gun, test the heat on the FRM module stock and not stock. At the end of the day the FRM module is a very tiny module.

We can go back and forth forever, just do me one favor, keep the ballast outside of the headlamp, if it falls and hits the Adaptive Motor, and all the heat your producing can cause major problems.

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

That makes it worst, those wires can not handle that type of power, once again your force coding the car, please do me a favor, take your heat gun, test the heat on the FRM module stock and not stock. At the end of the day the FRM module is a very tiny module.

We can go back and forth forever, just do me one favor, keep the ballast outside of the headlamp, if it falls and hits the Adaptive Motor, and all the heat your producing can cause major problems.

The wires going to the angel eyes are 18 awg, while that may seem small, they are more then adequate to handle 3.3 amps. 18 awg wire is rated up to 9.2 amps.

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

The wires going to the angel eyes are 18 awg, while that may seem small, they are more then adequate to handle 3.3 amps. 18 awg wire is rated up to 9.2 amps.

18 gauge? Are you serious? They are 22s. I wish they where 18s. Those ballast spike well over 9amps at start up, that is the buzzing noise you hear. Let's just leave the back and forth, I knew this would happen, facts come out of no where, like I said before, if you have to use your method, please one use AC ballast and two keep the ballast outside of the headlights. This will prolong any problems.

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

18 gauge? Are you serious? They are 22s. I wish they where 18s. Those ballast spike well over 9amps at start up, that is the buzzing noise you hear. Let's just leave the back and forth, I knew this would happen, facts come out of no where, like I said before, if you have to use your method, please one use AC ballast and two keep the ballast outside of the headlights. This will prolong any problems.

The ballasts draw 6 amps at startup.

Honestly, I feel like you're getting a bit too defensive. So far, there have been ZERO failures - that should speak for itself. You're just shitting on my thread because you want to make money.

I understand you're upset, you are a HID vendor. My thread title kind of says it all. Don't take it personal buddy.

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

The ballasts draw 6 amps at startup.

Honestly, I feel like you're getting a bit too defensive. So far, there have been ZERO failures - that should speak for itself. You're just shitting on my thread because you want to make money.

I understand you're upset, you are a HID vendor. My thread title kind of says it all. Don't take it personal buddy.

Buddy I understand. Money is the root of all evil, but do trust this is not the case here, your reading what it says on the ballast, they do not draw 6amps at start up. I'm not upset at all for the thread, these come and go, seen it happen twice. The fact is people start having serious problems and the thread falls off. So it's not the fact the thread is effecting my pockets, it's the fact your stating some facts wrong, I will bet my business your FRM will give out in months. But hey, I'm the evil vendor so my words do not count, correct?

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

Buddy I understand. Money is the root of all evil, but do trust this is not the case here, your reading what it says on the ballast, they do not draw 6amps at start up. I'm not upset at all for the thread, these come and go, seen it happen twice. The fact is people start having serious problems and the thread falls off. So it's not the fact the thread is effecting my pockets, it's the fact your stating some facts wrong, I will bet my business your FRM will give out in months. But hey, I'm the evil vendor so my words do not count, correct?

It's already been 6 months, how many more do I have to wait until I get your business?

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

It's already been 6 months, how many more do I have to wait until I get your business?

Okay man you win

[E90Company]

[franzzz]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

It's already been 6 months, how many more do I have to wait until I get your business?

Great!
Any idea in order to coding my 2007 E92 FRM Unit ?
Angel eye dimming switch off is necessary

[franzzz]

Originally Posted by franzzz

Great!
Any idea in order to coding my 2007 E92 FRM Unit ?
Angel eye dimming switch off is necessary

This is my frm

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B3k...zBobWNFdGFOZkE

[E92ML]

I did everything in this thread but my angel eyes still flicker slightly when they're on as DRL's. When the headlights are on too, they look perfect and don't flicker but for some dang reason they won't stop flickering when they're on by them selves. I have a 2008 E92 335xi. Help?

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by E92ML

I did everything in this thread but my angel eyes still flicker slightly when they're on as DRL's. When the headlights are on too, they look perfect and don't flicker but for some dang reason they won't stop flickering when they're on by them selves. I have a 2008 E92 335xi. Help?

Take another look at step 9. It sounds like you're not doing it correctly. Any changes to the trc file (basic coding) will remove your changes to the NETTODAT file, which means you'll have to redo step 9.

[rentonrider]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

Take another look at step 9. It sounds like you're not doing it correctly. Any changes to the trc file (basic coding) will remove your changes to the NETTODAT file, which means you'll have to redo step 9.

Well we can't seem to get this to work properly. Been working with e92ml. Here's what we've done. I've renamed the steps to avoid confusion. Thanks in advance for your help.

1) Launched NCS, read NFRM and changed the following:

• a) disable soft illumination - change WL_SL_1 to hart_einschalten
  b) disable angel eye bulb check - change CC_MELD_RL_BL_1_ALS_TFL to nicht_aktiv
  c) disable angel eye dimming- Change PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL to wert_01

2) Saved trace file as .man & coded car

3) Read the NFRM module. Then take the NETTODAT file and make a copy to compare.

4) Changed PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL wert_01 to wert_06 and recode the car.

5) Read the module again and compare this NETTODAT file to the last. 2 bytes (values) that changed found and noted.

6) Changed the the last (most recent read) nettodat file to 38,0E and saved as NETTODAT.MAN

7) Go back to NCS, basic options --> coapiCodeSqByNettoData and typed in NETTODAT.MAN when the popup appears

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by rentonrider

Well we can't seem to get this to work properly. Been working with e92ml. Here's what we've done. I've renamed the steps to avoid confusion. Thanks in advance for your help.

1) Launched NCS, read NFRM and changed the following:

• a) disable soft illumination - change WL_SL_1 to hart_einschalten
  b) disable angel eye bulb check - change CC_MELD_RL_BL_1_ALS_TFL to nicht_aktiv
  c) disable angel eye dimming- Change PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL to wert_01

2) Saved trace file as .man coded car

3) Read the NFRM module. Then take the NETTODAT file and make a copy to compare.

4) Changed PWM_RL_BL_1_FKT_SL wert_01 to wert_06 and recode the car.

5) Read the module again and compare this NETTODAT file to the last. 2 bytes (values) that changed found and noted.

6) Changed the the last (most recent read) nettodat file to 38,0E and saved as NETTODAT.MAN

7) Go back to NCS, basic options --> coapiCodeSqByNettoData and typed in NETTODAT.MAN when the popup appears

That sounds exactly right.

So they only flicker with the head lights are off? Does it make a difference if the engine is on or off?

[rentonrider]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

That sounds exactly right.

So they only flicker with the head lights are off? Does it make a difference if the engine is on or off?

When the exact steps are performed, the passenger side AE turns off. If I skip step 4 and do all other steps: When the car is running and low beams on, the AEs are okay and look amazing. When the car is running and low beams off (angel eyes only), they flicker/flutter. Btw, the HIDs we got aren't DDM. We bought them from some local shop for $45 bucks. Would this matter? They are 35W HID H8s I think (E92ML correct me if I'm wrong).

Thanks.

[Rotary Rasp]

Originally Posted by rentonrider

When the exact steps are performed, the passenger side AE turns off. If I skip step 4 and do all other steps: When the car is running and low beams on, the AEs are okay and look amazing. When the car is running and low beams off (angel eyes only), they flicker/flutter. Btw, the HIDs we got aren't DDM. We bought them from some local shop for $45 bucks. Would this matter? They are 35W HID H8s I think (E92ML correct me if I'm wrong).

Thanks.

I can't say for sure if the problem is with HID kit or not, but I've done it with other brands without issues.

If you have a multimeter that will compute duty cycle, that would be very useful. It would allow you to see if you've disabled PWM. If not, take a voltmeter and check the voltage going to the ballast with the lights on and off, it won't be as accurate, but should still work.

[rentonrider]

Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp

I can't say for sure if the problem is with HID kit or not, but I've done it with other brands without issues.

If you have a multimeter that will compute duty cycle, that would be very useful. It would allow you to see if you've disabled PWM. If not, take a voltmeter and check the voltage going to the ballast with the lights on and off, it won't be as accurate, but should still work.

Thanks for your help. Will give that a shot.

[JustinGTP]

Has anyone tried these in a E90 LCI? Do the ballasts fit in the housing?

Thanks,

[sohcpunk]

Originally Posted by JustinGTP

Has anyone tried these in a E90 LCI? Do the ballasts fit in the housing?

Thanks,

Doubt it will fit. We have a tiny circle compartment on the back of our headlights. Don't think it will fit a ballast inside. What you can do it just install the bulbs and let the ballast hang outside. You do need to drill a 1 inch hole on the caps to run the wires through and fit the rubber grommet where the hole is. Fortunately the caps are about $10 from BMW so drilling shouldn't be a big deal if you ever want to go back to stock.

[BOBKUR]

Why Do The Angel Eyes Need To Be So Bright. If You Need To Be Seen Put A Red Light On The Roof.