[UdubBadger]

Originally Posted by RaceBlood

There is a difference between Made to Measure and Custom, MTM is a suit made to your measurements off a set model. Custom (Saville Row UK) is hand cut, sewn to your body, requires 3-6 fittings and has details most tailoring houses are not even capable of.

That said, as MTM specialist for a life time, I have managed the MTM business for the best labels and makes in the luxury sector, with Oxxford, Eremengildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani, I know a thing or two about the offerings out there-

The key to a MTM suit is what you need it for? If you cant fit into Off the Rack or Ready to Wear (RTW) then it makes more sense, but then you have to decide what type of style you want? if your a young guy and wanting a hip and contemporary model, with a roped shoulder, high button stance, slim sleeve, small chest, short coat length, and slim fitting Flat Front (FF) pants, Side vented jackets and working buttons holes, on sleeves, with an Armani/Boss/Dolce/Gucci attitude, Daru or anyone else aint gonna match it, or even come close, as these patterns/styles are not in their inventory of offerings I promise. More than not, you will get a suit thats a big shoulders, large deep armhole, large chest, low button stance, low gorge lapel (fishmouth) and a pant thats baggy and not even modern by todays fashions.

That all said, if you want a business suit thats classic, traditional and will be in style, like say a Brooks Brothers/Polo/Hickey Freeman style, then a MTM tailor can most likely afford you those styles.

But, keep in mind the next thing is longevity and quality, and I am speaking only about construction, not the cloth, thats another subject all together. The construction is paramount for both good fit, and also durability. This includes such factors as the type horsehair/cotton/silk canvas in the front, is it floating, 1/4, 1/2 or full canvas, and is it fused, semi fused or hand stitched? Then other items of importance are the Top Collar, this where the back of the collar on the neck is sewn to the front edge/lapels- another key item is the sleevehead, where the arm is sewn to the shoulder and rear blades (behind the shoulders), is it hand sewn, and is what is the taper or scoop of the armhole? This impacts both the comfort of the jacket, and also the appeal when its on your body. Next is the innerfacings and linings, these should always be the finest threads, canvas, and the jacket lining, is it Bemberg? Then there is the pant, is the waistband have a layer to reinforce to entire band area, are the belt loops tacked on or sewn on, is the zipper metal or a plastic, is the pant lined to the knee, is the inside pocketing for side/rear pockets super soft cotton?

Then you have cloth, which is a endless array of quality and types, from worsted, to crepes, high twist, single, double ply, whats the thread count? Super 80 or super 120? is it a blend or all wool? Is it made in Italy/Engand (best) or Romania/China/Japan/Chile? This is the main factor on quality appeal, drape and also wearability, I suggest only Italian Fabrics, and super 80 or better. Crepes and High Twist/Frescos (Armani) are hard to find not easy to sew nor manipulate like flat worsteds and classic suit finishes. Another factor on the wool, is the origin, New Zealand/Australian and some South American wools are the best, have the most density and lush texture, almost cashmere like, then you have superfine, which is determined by the Microns, the finer the micron, the more finer the wool can be spun, creating a superfine luxury cloth, known as super 150 or better, hard to get a suit in this under $2000, even in Hong Kong.

So, what your looking at depends what you need, and what style desire. What I just said above can be intimidating to say the least, but there is a reason a suit has a certain cost, it depends on origin (EU union wages and import/euro to dollar), also the construction techniques, and also the exclusiveness of the fabric design (Designers have cloth made just for the collection for the season), and also the origin of the cloth, and also the amount of "Make" in the trimmings/innards.

The best way to see and feel what I am talking about, is go to a Nordstrom first, the older top book sellers know their labels and also their very knowledge is decades of selling, and they know all the models on the floor from each maker/designer. So go try on your size in a Joseph Abboud $695, A Hugo Boss $995, a Hickey Freeman $1395, a Canali $1795, and an Armani $2195.

Now all these labels have different cuts, with the youngest and most contemporary being Armani "Giorgio" model and Boss "Jam" model. Hickey Freeman has a new models thats similar to "Giorgio" only FF and Side Vented, but also a classic center vent model and lower button stance. Canali is classic business suit, the Armani has a similar cut thats called "Executive", its for a guy with a slight stomach and needs comfort, but want nice fabrics like the Canali offers too.

The Abboud is basic suit, so so construction, try each on, and see which shoulder/but fits you best, then feel the cloth on all, and you will start to determine the diffences in the same way you would in a Chevy, Honda, Lexus, BMW, Porsche. Some will be plain and look boring on you, some will have attitude and have style.

Now, there are also other great designers/suit collections out there, and I will list my take on them, as I am a brand manager and know the competition well, and have worked for many of the companies, as well as Nieman Marcus, SFA and Barneys.

Starting at the TOP-

Best make and fabric out of Italy, is Brioni. NM/SFA carry it, its a very serious suit, James Bond wore this suit in last movie, its starts about $4000. Its a tad mature for me, and I am 51, but its a statesman suit, world leaders, business honchos wear it, its impeccable.

Next is a new label on the scene but a old Napoli house called Isaia, this is a more contemporary collection, limited in distribution at Barney/SFA/NM top doors. There are know for their more bold patterns and old school personality, super fine cloth, soft shoulders and exquisite tailoring, its the new up and commer in luxury. $2600 and up.

Then you have the HOT Tom Ford collection, this IS hollywood hand made for OTR, and its a very strong 40's shoulder, old school english fabrics like 4 ply cahsmere jackets and navy tuxedos, its not for everyone, but its cool if you want the latest hip NY/London celebrity motif and beautiful tailoring, by E Zegna.

And then you have Ermenegildo Zegna, a power suit for the euro/asian/american businessman, they are know for their respected legacy as fine mills producing the finest fabric from italy, and also as a purveyor of luxury gentlemans clothing/sportswear and now shoes (Partnership w/Ferragammo.) $2400 and up-

Next is the various labels of the house of Giorgio Armani. They have 3 collections that encompass a wide array of lifestyle suitings-

Giorgio Armani- Black Label is only sold at GA Boutiques, NM, Bergdorf Goodman, they start at $3300 and possess some of the lightest and mot technically advanced construction, as Mr A like a light jacket, deconstructed to the bone, but always serious, and with unique, technical and advanced design cloth, its the epitome of Hollywood meets Boardroom.

*All makes above are Full Canvas construction, and usually a 6" drop, meaning a 40" coat/chest comes with a 34" pant.

The you have Armani Collezioni, this suit has 3 models, Executive as mention above, the Giorgio, and the young hip Metropolitan (Big overseas, not US) its a skinny fit suit. These suit models all have a different degree of tailoring, the Exe is 1/4 canvas floating, Goirgio is floating-fused, and Metro is hardly any canvas but fused. They range $1895 to $2500 ish

The Canali suit is a great make thats the bread and butter of business suit wardrobes, great cloth, great tailoring, and is referred to as a Poormans Armani/Zegna, though its nothing to knock, its a great suit, just a tad boring cut/fabrics.

Other nice suits from Italy, is the Corneliani, a classic line well tailored and very traditional but a nice value, Ralph Lauren uses this house for his Blue Label suits at the RL Boutiques. $1595 and you cant go wrong.

Now, this to me is where the quality/designer landscapes gets muddled, but I will break it down by need, business vs social.

The suits below are a younger feel, all are 7" drops, meaning the 40' Coat/chest comes with a 33' waist pant.

In the business spectrum, ZZegna is a great suit for a young man in the new business word. Classic fabrics and a modern style, narrow leg, $1395. Made in Mexico.

Emporio Armani, this collection is very in the moment runway, think Beckham, Ranaldo and Usher. Optical fabrics allow the user to wear to the office and then out at night socially. $1395 Made in Italy.

The inbetween label in the under $1300 suit is the Hickey Freeman, American made, its nice for the classic american business man, not going to impress anyone but its a nice value. $1295

Dolce Gabbana is a designer suit thats seen better days, poor stiff construction and cheap fabrics have the above makers a preferred value.

Hugo Boss has 3 collections and makes of suits like Armani, all different in fabric style and fits, I do like the Jam model, thinks its a very hip model in contemporary fabrics. $895 to $1395

Gucci/Prada are both very nice suits, some are 8" drop 40/32 and are very fitted and well made, pricey and also cool unique fabrics, fine for a 25 year old fashionista. $2295 and up. Made in Italy.

Fringe designers, a new offering on the mens scene is the Valentino collection, I feel its a great value and nice fabrics, but its only been on the market 6 months, so have ni idea how its performing. Made in EU/Maybe Eastern Ukraine. $1295

Theory is a basic suit thats a decent make, best to buy at outlet at 55% off IMO.

Joseph Abboud these days in junk, not what it was 3 years ago and best avoided. $695

Brooks Brothers is a nice value, similar to the Corneliani/RL Polo suit in classic cut and business fabrics, $1295 up.

If you dont need MTM, I highly suggest buying the above at end of season sales, mens clothing for business attire does not go out of style, so why pay full retail when building your suit/work wardrobe? The Outlets for the Designers and NM/SFA/Nord are also good deals, best selections are just after sale, as mainline store send out previous season sale to make room for new season, which is late Jan to Feb, and late June to Aug.

MTM by these independents are never impressive to me, they have outdated models and plain looking fabrics and are not even in the moment. Buy a designer suit on sale and have something that last, and you enjoy wearing and feel good in.

If I was not in the industry and had to pay retail, I would wear Boss Jam, ZZegna, Armani for nice subtle suit attire. If I had gobs of money and could shop till I drop, I would enjoy Hermes, Tom Ford, Isaia and a splash of Etro.

Hope that helps fellas.

Best stores to shop IMO

Classic Business attire- Nordstrom Oakbrook/Mich Ave, Neiman Marcus Northbrook. Syd Jerome in the loop

Contemporary- Barneys/SFA Mich Ave, Nordstrom Mich ave

The following offer MTM, they have trunk show events with a rep from the company normally, Brioni, Isaia, EZegna, Giorgio Armani Black, and Armani Collezioni, Hickey Freeman, HSM (Hart Shaffner Marx Obama wears), Prada, Gucci, Tom Ford. Allow 8 weeks for most. Add 20% to cost of RTW (Ready to wear)

If you want to dress for the moment, Esquire and Details magazine is bang on. GQ is not so much anymore a factor in fashion IMO.

Its all about skinny ties, wrinkled shirts, skinny lapels, slim fit pants, no cuff and hemmed short, no socks and lace up english cap toes or driving shoes. Jackets with wild color linings, working button holes, side vents, and french cuffs for evening/events.

H&M, Zara, J Crew, and soon to open the stellar AllSaints, are great resources for cool washed unconstructed jackets to wear with denim, 5 pockets and khakis.

You're new here so I'll be nice.


DON'T EVER POST ANYTHING THAT FUCKING LONG AGAIN OR YOU WILL DIE!



j/k bro. I'd be surprised if anyone made it through the entire thing - we all have massive A.D.D.

[J BONE]

Originally Posted by UdubBadger

You're new here so I'll be nice.


DON'T EVER POST ANYTHING THAT FUCKING LONG AGAIN OR YOU WILL DIE!



j/k bro. I'd be surprised if anyone made it through the entire thing - we all have massive A.D.D.

Holy balls that was long!

[J BONE]

Originally Posted by UdubBadger

I'm going to be at A&L in like an hour, too bad you're a homo and can't come hang/get your shit from me.

Damn bro. Wish I would have read this earlier, may have had time to shoot out there. Oh well, I get to see your black ass soon in vegas

[J BONE]

Originally Posted by Ricer X

So are these suits custom or made to measure? For example, mens wearhouse is made to measure. You get a suit of a general size and they "customize" it to you. The suits and shirts I get from David are custom....meaning they are from a roll of material that you select. He has made to measure to at a lower price than what I pay. I just find that even made to measure, no matter where I get it from, doesn't fit as well as custom.

As far as quality? I don't know. 100% wool could mean alot of different levels of quality and I've never heard of Sea Island cotton. Not saying that it isn't good, just don't know enough. I've gotten to the point with David, much like where I am with WSTO. If he suggests it, I know he already knows what I generally am looking for (Gene Kelly meets 2011) and its good to go.

Have to say, I have a couple of really nice suits from nordstrom and IMO, they are not worth it. Mens warehouse has a really nice selection and they seem to take care of me better than anyone. Just my personal experience. I will continue to buy my stuff from them

[J BONE]

My Joseph Abboud suit from them was $400 vs the hugo boss one for $1200. The Joseph Abboud suit fits me much better and was a 1/3 of the price. Not a suit expert though

[RaceBlood]

It fit you better as the cut/model was better on you, not the suit was any better made. Thats the key, if the suits looks and fits great, price is a second factor, buy the model that fits you best.

That was a cut n paste I had from another forum on travel and having suits made in Asia (Vietnam). I figured the guys here could use the info, as buying a nice suit is a big outlay for many, and its nice to have the basic info covered.

Its shitty and cold out, bored to death. Time to open the wine, something I need a lesson on as well...

[gary88]

I've always gotten good customer service at mens wearhouse. Speaking of which I need to buy a new suit soon.

[CubanJJ09]

My suits consists of a brightly orange color linen and black serial number emBOSSed.

[BTM]

Originally Posted by RaceBlood

Its shitty and cold out, bored to death. Time to open the wine, something I need a lesson on as well...

Red wine is the shit. The more you drink, the better it gets. Don't run out.

/lesson

[wazup773]

vodka redbullll

[CubanJJ09]

Originally Posted by wazup773

heart attacksssssss

[gary88]

Damn I have a craving for more chex mix now.

[UdubBadger]

Originally Posted by J BONE

Damn bro. Wish I would have read this earlier, may have had time to shoot out there. Oh well, I get to see your black ass soon in vegas

no worries i was gone by noon. new tires are sexx.

[CubanJJ09]

Ryan Burton would of filled your trunk had you asked

[UdubBadger]

Originally Posted by CubanJJ09

"Ricer X" Financial Services woulda filled your ass full of semen and kissed you goodnight when he was done if had you asked.

[Ricer X]

That was good info Riceblood but as Seth said, its way too much for me to know/remember or care about. Its easier for me to say David, I need a suit....thinking 3 button, main use is as my major presentation/closing suit...thinking blue pin...gimme options and off we go. He gives me 3-7 sample swatches and updates measurements and price for each. Boom...all in my office.

Boner/Gary, I hear you guys about MW. You guys don't necessarily have to wear suits or more formal business attire often. Even when I was entry level, believe me MW was a step up. Bachrach and JCP were my clothiers back then. But once you get to a certain level, the game picks up and things like a cheap looking or worn suit (I'm sure RB will confirm that cheaper materials wear faster in addition to general construction issues) are noticed. Ill fitting shirts are noticed too. Remember, if you are in a position to represent the company/firm/or yourself, nobody wants a slob out there pitching for them.

Also, this is a personal thing but doing alot of sales, how I feel about myself shows through in my presentation. If I have to be somewhat concerned about how I look, its one more thing I have to worry about on top of what I am really there for. If I feel I look sharp, I am more confident and that comes through as well.

[Ricer X]

Originally Posted by UdubBadger

even if you don't ask...

[UdubBadger]

exactly....

[Ricer X]

f-ing signal is out on the cable at this th in galena....its raining and we have no snacks. Wife is making NY Strip. She picked up 2 doz oysters from Supreme Lob earlier and two bags of mussels...but she hasn't started yet.

Good news is the boy is on his way, which means there will be drinking tonite, oh yes there will. Either me and the wife go out or me and the boy go out...

[Ricer X]

also, if I remember, JBone's family is a bunch of waps so anything better than a track suit is a step up, no?

[UdubBadger]

oh yeah... HUGE dego clan dem Graf's are. I mean he's practically black.

[Ricer X]

Bottle of Duckhorn...open...

JBone...got to try the 08 Caymus Cab last weekend...smooth