[E91_AKD]

All done. How she sits. 17x8 225/45/R17 25mm spacers.

[StuKatz]

Originally Posted by E91_AKD

All done. How she sits. 17x8 225/45/R17 25mm spacers.

soo beautiful!

[CoreyWebster]

Removed the saggy nets on the back of the seats. Took the plastic back off of the seat to see if the net can be tightened up first. The frame that holds the net is plastic welded on the back side. I ended up just cutting the nets off.

[E91_AKD]

Originally Posted by CoreyWebster

Removed the saggy nets on the back of the seats. Took the plastic back off of the seat to see if the net can be tightened up first. The frame that holds the net is plastic welded on the back side. I ended up just cutting the nets off.

Crazy how annoying those can be and they are behind us lol

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by CoreyWebster

Removed the saggy nets on the back of the seats. Took the plastic back off of the seat to see if the net can be tightened up first. The frame that holds the net is plastic welded on the back side. I ended up just cutting the nets off.

I remember seeing a thread where someone was able to tighten them.
I like the look of them, just don’t like anyone using them, LOL.

[Serf27]

Replaced the voltage regulator on the N54. Easier than replacing the whole alternator.

[Brian86]

Annual visual, nut/bolt, and fluid checks.

The extra 'underbody strut' that triangulates rockers to diff on on wagons has some serious rust. Like... gonna split and fall off the car this winter rust. Rear subframe welds are starting to look a little rough these days as well.

Perhaps two or three more northeast winters before I start to worry about something serious breaking. It's really bonkers to see how clean the exhaust and unibody is compared to the subframe and a few other odds and ends.

Seriously considering a new AC compressor as preventative maintenance. Mine has a very healthy pump whine it's one of the few things I worry might leave me stranded when traveling for work.

Looks like my T-case is leaking from the rear output. That sucks. Of all the things on the car that can leak the T-case is the most inconvenient to top up. It's also the youngest assembly on the car. ~120k on the t-case vs. 340k on everything else.

Holy crap the T-case fluid does a number on my epoxy garage floor. Dunno what's in there but it's the only car fluid that damages it. Starts eating away at the top coat in a matter of minutes.

Also installed spacers on my downstream O2 sensors. Car has a lot of miles. It burns a moderate amount of oil and the cat's were severely contaminated with liquid oil some 40k miles ago when my PCV system went out.

Now the CAT's don't light off quickly enough on intermediate 1-2 hour stops. Been driving it down one gear on 'warm startups' to prevent the MIL but I still slip up now and then. We'll see if the spacers nip my CAT efficiency codes.

I'll almost certainly buy another one of these things. Doubt I'll find another wagon since they are so rare but I'll definitely overpay for a moderate mileage southern 325/8xi sedan when the time comes. It's a wonderful car to drive and I know it'll resist rusting for a decade and purr like a sewing machine forever.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Brian86

Annual visual, nut/bolt, and fluid checks.

The extra 'underbody strut' that triangulates rockers to diff on on wagons has some serious rust. Like... gonna split and fall off the car this winter rust. Rear subframe welds are starting to look a little rough these days as well.

Perhaps two or three more northeast winters before I start to worry about something serious breaking. It's really bonkers to see how clean the exhaust and unibody is compared to the subframe and a few other odds and ends.

Seriously considering a new AC compressor as preventative maintenance. Mine has a very healthy pump whine it's one of the few things I worry might leave me stranded when traveling for work.

Looks like my T-case is leaking from the rear output. That sucks. Of all the things on the car that can leak the T-case is the most inconvenient to top up. It's also the youngest assembly on the car. ~120k on the t-case vs. 340k on everything else.

Holy crap the T-case fluid does a number on my epoxy garage floor. Dunno what's in there but it's the only car fluid that damages it. Starts eating away at the top coat in a matter of minutes.

Also installed spacers on my downstream O2 sensors. Car has a lot of miles. It burns a moderate amount of oil and the cat's were severely contaminated with liquid oil some 40k miles ago when my PCV system went out.

Now the CAT's don't light off quickly enough on intermediate 1-2 hour stops. Been driving it down one gear on 'warm startups' to prevent the MIL but I still slip up now and then. We'll see if the spacers nip my CAT efficiency codes.

I'll almost certainly buy another one of these things. Doubt I'll find another wagon since they are so rare but I'll definitely overpay for a moderate mileage southern 325/8xi sedan when the time comes. It's a wonderful car to drive and I know it'll resist rusting for a decade and purr like a sewing machine forever.

Swap out the compressor... that's what left me stranded. Hope you can avoid the rust monster for a while longer...

[oVeRdOsE.]

any experience with that kit. For 5k$ is a ok deal?

elling my ON3 Single Turbo kit
Fits rwd n54 cars and comes with :

Manifolds
Dowpipe
External PCV Dump
Turbo to intercooler alluminium inlet + clamp + coupler
ON3 block offs
Mac solenoid with stainless steel 4an lines
Turbo oil feed and oil drain
Turbo blanket and screen
Hardware
Pulsar GTX 3584rs 67mm Turbo with dual ceramic ball bearings , billet compressor and t51r mode
Tial MVR 44mm external wastegate
Bosch OEM o2 sensors
V-Bands

5000kms on the kit
Manifold and dowpipe modified to take a bigger turbo and be a perfect fit

[vilord]

Are you trying to code specific items or are you changing the Vehicle Order and doing "default"/factory coding?
I'd recommend the latter... make sure you have S676 in the VO and that you don't have S837.

My experience with HIFI audio with aftermarket components was that it always sounded like carp though... even with the special 'technic' cable. the HIFI output is differential/balanced audio (gnd, +, -) and the input on all aftermarket amps is not (just +/-)...
Reminds me I've been meaning to wire in my S677 H/K system. Maybe I'll get to that in the next few weeks.

Originally Posted by wrongmark

Been trying to code it all weekend with a DCAN cable and NCS Expert. I've tried everything I can think of in NCS Expert. The annoying thing is that when I bought the head unit used from ebay (bought it for the built-in in Bluetooth), it was already set to 'Hifi' and I somehow coded it back to 'Stereo'. I've read so many forum posts on it now, I've given up.

[vilord]

Gotta love the salt up here!

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by vilord

Gotta love the salt up here!

Must be those lowering springs I've heard about!

[Silnismo]

Finally paired my 3 stage intake with the bimmerlabs tune, took some trouble shooting but got the flash to work with a decent battery charger.

Love the way it drives, finally satisfied with the power output on the 325i.

[Dirtleg]

Today I used INPA to turn off my FTM warning since my idrive has failed. 2006 325i.

FTM was set when a wheel sensor went bad. So digging around INPA I went to F3, then selected Chassis/ Dynamic Stability Control.
If you go to F5, which is what the earlier instructions I had found said to do, you will find and RPA status option but you cannot reset it from there.
Instead F6 took me to another screen where I selected F9. From there I selected F1 to reset the FTM monitor.

So hellz yeah. Finally turned that off.

Next try to get the AHL working again. So close to having every warning light off on this thing now. Replaced a leaking left side headlight with a used one a couple weeks ago.. Now I only have a warning when the headlight is actually on, not all the time like before. Hoping adding the vin to the module corrects it. We'll see.

[aexlm]

Painted the wheels and calipers

[Dirtleg]

Well another update.

I finally got rid of the AHL warning. Put a new SCM on the drivers side headlight and problem solved. Pushed the coding on it with NCS Expert and when the lights come on right and left are even now. Didn't update the VIN on the module however.. Even after updating WinKFP with the BMW Coding tool it fails to launch.

Now my only issue is a little tringle on the cluster because I have a CC-ID 131, Left parking light failure. This is accurate as the angel eye bulb on my used headlight was broken and the one from my headlight was corrroded from sitting in water so I need to replace it.

Easy fix. I can only hope this will be the last thing for a minute.

Well except my passenger rear window won't calibrate. Even using INPA to set the operation didn't work. It goes to the bottom and stays down. I can nurse it up a couple inches at a time but cannot get it to take. And is says it's taught on the INPA status screen. I'll keep playing with it. The left rear did this too and I eventually got it to work.

My son should have his license in the next month so getting these things done needs to happen soon.

[E91_AKD]

Round 2!
Coil overs Friday, today camber and adjustable toe arms on the E91

[Dirtleg]

Well I played with the headlight some more yesterday.

Drivers side bulb was pointing down, badly. Level adjuster would not bring it up but would make it go down further.

So I opened the headlight and inspected the adjuster mechanism. No obvious issue but I am thinking there's a detent or something missing to raise the light carriage. Need to look at a functioning one to verify.

So I set it at the height I wanted by hand and then turned the lights on. It did it's up down movement and stopped where I had aimed it manually.

Cut to the chase it stayed where I set it on a test drive yesterday evening. I am not sure if it will stay there permanently but time will tell.

[vilord]

Dirtleg if you open the back cover of the headlight, grab the back end of the xenon bulb and just pull or push on it, how attached does it feel? On my '07 housings, one of the bulb mounts was just loose and bouncing around in there because it had disconnected from the servo motors... the little balls just needed to be snapped back in.
On my '09 housings the manual adjuster had completely broken off/disconnected.

[Dirtleg]

Originally Posted by vilord

Dirtleg if you open the back cover of the headlight, grab the back end of the xenon bulb and just pull or push on it, how attached does it feel? On my '07 housings, one of the bulb mounts was just loose and bouncing around in there because it had disconnected from the servo motors... the little balls just needed to be snapped back in.
On my '09 housings the manual adjuster had completely broken off/disconnected.

So I had to swap my existing xenon bulb into this housing when I got it as it was way brighter. Bulb is in correctly. I also checked the servo motor connection. All was good. I believe my manual adjuster is the issue. I just haven't actually seen what a good one is like. The old headlight is at my shop on my property. I'll grab it next time I'm there and compare the 2.

[vilord]

Waiting for the new spring spacers before reassembling the rear suspension...

Might as well fix the sunroof!

[CoreyWebster]

Took the car to get smogged and the tech informed me the check engine light had been tampered with. I never noticed it didn't flash on start up. All the other lights work. Took the cluster apart and sure enough there was tape over the LED. Took the tape off and the knucklehead removed the LED from the board. Did a little research and discovered hot air soldering and solder paste. I ended up buying this and a cluster off of Ebay for $25. Did a couple of practice runs on the Ebay cluster and went for it. Used the hot air and tweezers to remove the LED from the Ebay cluster. Placed the LED on my cluster and squeezed a little solder paste on the edges. Nice and easy effort and it just melted right in place. Not as hard as you might think. I have to say, I don't ever remember being this excited for a check engine light.