[captainslow]

hello, ok so my car has about 65,000 miles on it and I did some logs and my timing sucks. someone told me that my LPFP needs to be replaced. is this just a wear and tear item that needs to be replaced every 65,000 miles or so, or if i get a new OEM LPFP will my timing still be bad because its not an upgraded pump? my other option would be to get this

http://www.fuel-it.biz/e-series-stag...grade-options/

If i never run E85 would this pump be benefitial at all? it says it flows up to 100% more flow over stock, but I don't know if that matters for regular 93 octane fuel. thanks

[135Pats]

Why did they tell you that timing was being pulled out due to LPFP issues? Can you log it and upload it to datazap for us? Need more info before telling you where to throw money.

And regardless on pump gas, the car can provide plenty of fuel for stock frames. If you plan on doing a single turbo down the road it would be strongly advisable, but otherwise I see no reason to add a secondary pump inline.

[Blaster400]

The upgraded LPFP is only needed if you are running over 40% mixtures of E85. Otherwise you don't need it.

Just replace your stock LPFP if it is underperforming if you are not running E85.

[captainslow]

the link I posted is not for an inline pump its for a replacement pump if that makes a difference because you said in line pump. I logged it and sent it to BMS so that was the reply I got. Is the LPFP a wear and tear item that generally gives out? the reason I want to make sure this is true is because I want to make sure that the problem actually that mine is dead from old age and not dying because it can't handle the tune etc. because if thats the case I would rather just upgrade it instead of having to replace it every few thousand miles. any guidance would be greatly appreciated. thanks

[Seymour Boost]

Post the log.

[captainslow]

I deleted it once I thought I figured out the problem. I would like to think BMS tech support would be pretty knolwedgeable.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by captainslow

I deleted it once I thought I figured out the problem. I would like to think BMS tech support would be pretty knolwedgeable.

If Terry informed you then yea, def. go with what he says.

Regardless i'd just replace the bucket with new OE unit. Not particularly expensive IIRC, it's been a few thousand miles since I replaced the entire fuel system lol.

[Seymour Boost]

Originally Posted by captainslow

I deleted it once I thought I figured out the problem. I would like to think BMS tech support would be pretty knolwedgeable.

They might know their stuff, but it also helps the community when you can provide logs with your questions/solutions.

I've learned quite a bit just by browsing through other peoples issues and logs.

[captainslow]

alright thanks guys I really appreciate it. is ECS the cheapest route? aside from something like ebay.

[chepy24]

guy guys quick questions on the psi for the pump... what is an ideal psi for the pump during WOT and what is the red flag psi... reason i ask im currently on an e30 map would like to bump it to e40 but want to make sure im not already pushing my pump too hard thanks

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by chepy24

guy guys quick questions on the psi for the pump... what is an ideal psi for the pump during WOT and what is the red flag psi... reason i ask im currently on an e30 map would like to bump it to e40 but want to make sure im not already pushing my pump too hard thanks

It's more complicated than that. A lot goes into "too aggressive", far more than just boost. In really, really, frankly over-simplified terms; i wouldn't want to see the stock snails pushing more than 19 pounds down low if we're talking longevity and relative safety. They need an aggressive taper downwards up top to keep the turbos remotely within their efficiency island.

If octane is your limit, timing is where you'll really need to be careful. You don't see many folks smoking motors due to "too much" boost.

[Digitalism]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

It's more complicated than that. A lot goes into "too aggressive", far more than just boost. In really, really, frankly over-simplified terms; i wouldn't want to see the stock snails pushing more than 19 pounds down low if we're talking longevity and relative safety. They need an aggressive taper downwards up top to keep the turbos remotely within their efficiency island.

If octane is your limit, timing is where you'll really need to be careful. You don't see many folks smoking motors due to "too much" boost.

I think he is referring to the LPFP psi not the turbo psi.

[Digitalism]

Originally Posted by chepy24

guy guys quick questions on the psi for the pump... what is an ideal psi for the pump during WOT and what is the red flag psi... reason i ask im currently on an e30 map would like to bump it to e40 but want to make sure im not already pushing my pump too hard thanks

Correct me if I am wrong but I think ideal during WOT would be ~60-70psi without any sudden drops in pressure.

I would be concern if pump pressure is less than <50psi or there is a sudden drop in pressure.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Digitalism

I think he is referring to the LPFP psi not the turbo psi.

Lol you are so right. I thought it read "Psi from pump" as in pump gas. Uupz


The DME targets 72.5PSI flat always. Any type of sustained pressure dropouts below 50PSI are cause for concern.

[chepy24]

awesome thanks guys!!