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      08-21-2014, 11:17 AM   #1
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How to tell when AT transmission is slipping?

So obviously I have a 6AT and just want to know what the symptoms of a 'slipping' transmission?

TIA
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      08-21-2014, 11:55 AM   #2
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Kinda like a slipping clutch.
For the AT I think it usually happens right after a shift. Your rpm's rise but you don't accelerate like you should. Can also be accompanied by a jerk as it stops slipping and engages finally.
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      08-21-2014, 12:07 PM   #3
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The most common is a 3-4 or 4-5 shift in which the AT basically misses the next gear and over-revs.

Otherwise a lazy shift that sounds like slipping and not a clean engagement could be a sign of a weakening AT.

It's best to keep that AT fluid fresh. For those with a lot of power I would probably change it every 30,000 miles or even sooner. It will definitely improve the life of the transmission.

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      08-21-2014, 12:26 PM   #4
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I waited 50K to do the first proper fluid and pan swap, and that was clearly too long. OP look at any of my logs on datazap and you'll see what slip looks like.

My AT has never failed to engage the next gear or slipped the current gear, but it does not like the 3-4 shift. Not one bit.
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      08-21-2014, 01:44 PM   #5
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Jeff,

My transmission didn't do what's shown in the video, but I've noticed that during up-shifts, and especially during down-shifts it isn't as 'snappy', and kinda takes a bit longer than before to change gears (all of this is done using the paddles).....Is this also a sign?

So it commonly slips during 3-4 shift, is it because that's when we put down the most torque, therefore causing the transmission to slip?

Mo mods, Mo problems......smh.

TIA
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      08-21-2014, 01:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder View Post
Jeff,

My transmission didn't do what's shown in the video, but I've noticed that during up-shifts, and especially during down-shifts it isn't as 'snappy', and kinda takes a bit longer than before to change gears (all of this is done using the paddles).....Is this also a sign?

So it commonly slips during 3-4 shift, is it because that's when we put down the most torque, therefore causing the transmission to slip?

Mo mods, Mo problems......smh.

TIA
Torque eats transmissions. Well heat to be specific, but that comes from the twist. With how violently it comes on using stock frame turbos, things can get gnarly when you near or exceed 500WTQ or so.

TBH the only thing that really bothers me is that when the gear slips, the "noise" that results destroys my timing post-shift.

http://datazap.me/u/135pats/3rd-shif...=22&mark=69-76
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      08-21-2014, 02:06 PM   #7
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I'm about 400+ torque, not anywhere near 500 torque.....Just trying to get all these problems fixed before switching to COBB and possibly running E mixes....
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      08-21-2014, 02:16 PM   #8
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Read for any shadow codes. Also, have you changed your Fluid and filter/pan? Whats ur mileage?
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      08-21-2014, 02:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Read for any shadow codes. Also, have you changed your Fluid and filter/pan? Whats ur mileage?
I'm at 87k miles, and haven't changed the transmission fluid....

Filter and pan? Oil filter and oil pan? or?

So the only fluid I haven't changed is the transmission fluid. I've done brake fluid, oil, coolant.
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      08-21-2014, 02:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder View Post
I'm at 87k miles, and haven't changed the transmission fluid....

Filter and pan? Oil filter and oil pan? or?

So the only fluid I haven't changed is the transmission fluid. I've done brake fluid, oil, coolant.
OK, If I were you I will change the fluid and pan soon and next step. The filter is inside the pan. I recently changed mine and my shifting is overall smoother than before since I was having same symptoms as you. Do some reading on this subject. Even though BMW says is a lifetime fluid, The transmission ZF manufacturer recommends to change fluid at 100K. Good luck!
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      08-21-2014, 03:43 PM   #11
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So I read the DIY on the transmission fluid change. Didn't sound too difficult.

But I do have one question though. Is the Redline ATF listed on ECS Tuning inferior to OEM ATF? Because the difference in price is $100+.....I thought Redline is equal or better than OEM?
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      08-21-2014, 04:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder View Post
So I read the DIY on the transmission fluid change. Didn't sound too difficult.

But I do have one question though. Is the Redline ATF listed on ECS Tuning inferior to OEM ATF? Because the difference in price is $100+.....I thought Redline is equal or better than OEM?
Assuming it's D4, no that is an excellent fluid. For a car that is driven hard, objectively superior and more shear resistant than OE lifeguard. Run it with confidence.
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      08-21-2014, 05:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135Pats View Post
Assuming it's D4, no that is an excellent fluid. For a car that is driven hard, objectively superior and more shear resistant than OE lifeguard. Run it with confidence.
Yes, it is D4. Although I don't track my car, but if Redline is equal or better, and comes with a cheaper price tag, then why not, right?

TIA
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      08-21-2014, 05:24 PM   #14
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Red line is good stuff. The OEM stuff simply costs more cause, well, it's "OEM".

With nearly 90K miles you are way past due on fluid. You should change it ASAP and you mine as well go with changing the pan too.

If you need redline fluid we have it available also.
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      08-21-2014, 05:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
Red line is good stuff. The OEM stuff simply costs more cause, well, it's "OEM".

With nearly 90K miles you are way past due on fluid. You should change it ASAP and you mine as well go with changing the pan too.

If you need redline fluid we have it available also.
HI Jeff,

Question, I used the Castrol IMPORT MULTIVEHICLE Automatic Transmission FluidPart # 06814 SKU: 9583197 on my tranny few months ago based on users here saying it its good and meets with OE specs. How do you compare Castrol to RedLine and ZF OEM fluid?
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      08-21-2014, 05:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
Red line is good stuff. The OEM stuff simply costs more cause, well, it's "OEM".

With nearly 90K miles you are way past due on fluid. You should change it ASAP and you mine as well go with changing the pan too.

If you need redline fluid we have it available also.
Yes, I'm probably just going to buy the Redline kit....It's $220 + shipping at ECS Tuning.

I looked on your website Jeff, and it didn't show that you guys sell the service kit? Or do you?

TIA
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