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      10-08-2014, 12:41 PM   #1
DieselD
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Warranty question

Guys I have a 2011 335d and have 49,970 miles on it here in NY. It is in the shop now getting a Diesel Exhaust Fluid pump changed which is on back order from Germany. So who knows when its coming in. I have never ever had an issue with the car yet but I am nervous that the trouble could be coming down the road. I have 3 years left in payments so I was trying to figure out if I should get the Powertrain or the Gold warranty or am I wasting my time and money. They are very expensive for 3 years and another 50k in mileage its like 3700 plus tax for the gold warranty. From what I am reading a whole bunch of you have had the DDE replaced and many fuel injectors and carbon clean outs.. I don't baby the car at all and have the JBD chip at 80% since the first 1000 miles on the car.. What should I do and what are the chances that nothing breaks in the next 50k miles??
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      10-08-2014, 12:57 PM   #2
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I'd have the car scoped now to check for CBU. Have it blasted proactively before it gets too bad. I see three options:

1) get the warranty and keep it stock (other than JDB)
2) take the $$$ you'd spend on warranty to do an emissions system delete
3) sell once it's out of warranty
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      10-08-2014, 01:01 PM   #3
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Another guy from Suffolk, that makes 3 of us, lol. I live in Sayville.

Considering 6 injectors cost around $2800, the DDE runs $1500 and the CBU cleaning from a dealer can run $1000. I'd say it's slightly cheaper to get the warranty. The CBU will happen. I drive like a dick and had a JBD for a while. My car got CBU around 72,000 miles.
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      10-08-2014, 01:01 PM   #4
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Get rid of the DPF EGR coded out buy the dpipe from Jess in New York viola you have a new car!!
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      10-08-2014, 01:16 PM   #5
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From a long term perspective go for the warranty. I am in the same boat as you 2 years of payment left. Purchased Gold 3yr/100k So far 4k out of 50k original warranty UREA tank replaced, Injectors all six, CBU cleaning and miscellaneous stuff. I planning to keep it stock with the exception of JBD/ M3 steering rack, and such while i spend the next two years gathering after market mods to do once payment or warranty is up. EGR Block and Meth will def be first. I dont have the DDE yet but im hoping for a code soon. Right now i just have EGR cool/ Throttle code which ill take it in soon for.

Be aware of the 50$ deductible and shop around if possible if not bite the bullet and go for the 3700.

If you can try to contact JEFF.STEEL@passportauto.com and see if he can cook something up for you. I got lets just say a decent amount less than what youre being offered without tax since it was a cross state line sale. So it falls under online purchase in a sense so no tax.
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      10-08-2014, 01:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d
Get rid of the DPF EGR coded out buy the dpipe from Jess in New York viola you have a new car!!
How do I get rid of the EGR.. and will the downpipe do anything for the amount t of money spent. or help prevent any of these other things from going bad?
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      10-08-2014, 01:45 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by DieselD View Post
How do I get rid of the EGR.. and will the downpipe do anything for the amount t of money spent. or help prevent any of these other things from going bad?
You dont really per se get rid of the EGR, you block the pipe so nothing flows. Theres a post within the forum that has the details I think iaknown has the EGR block thread containing the how to. This will prevent or at least slow the effects of carbon build up in the intake. The downpipe will delete the emissions in the rear of the car which will in turn disable the urea system and so on.

Immediate benefit of EGR block are not noticable since you havnt had CBU cleaning yet but if you get a methanol system thats where the big benefit comes from and combine the EGR block you dont really need CBU cleaning as the methanol is doing it for you as you drive. Deleting the DPF with the downpipe will allow a free flowing exhaust and less worry about the emissions failing since its not there to begin with once you get a downpipe and also more POWAAAAAAA with a tune or JBD(Not sure).

Im sure someone that has all the deletes can chime in for better detail. But note if youre doing the delete yourself its a bit of a time consuming ordeal and could lead to further problems if youre not inclined to this type of work. So factor in the pipe + delete + labor + tune the cost runs about the same as warranty (+ or -). You will also have codes being displayed as in "Service Engine Soon" which you will need a tune to remove which TDI, iaknown,2deer or Puerto Rican can help you out with.
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      10-08-2014, 01:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TadBoy
I'd have the car scoped now to check for CBU. Have it blasted proactively before it gets too bad. I see three options:

1) get the warranty and keep it stock (other than JDB)
2) take the $$$ you'd spend on warranty to do an emissions system delete
3) sell once it's out of warranty
Yeah how do I deleted the emissions system. and will I have inspection issues each year when it's time for the car to get an inspection? Does it actually help the car at all?
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      10-08-2014, 01:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselD View Post
How do I get rid of the EGR.. and will the downpipe do anything for the amount t of money spent. or help prevent any of these other things from going bad?
You can completely remove, or block. Either way it will eliminate the recirculating of exaust into your intake,(this is where cbu comes from).
Removing all other items,(dpf, scr, def) will only save you money in the long run, as all of these parts WILL fail. Added bennifits, better performance, better mpg's, and IMO better sound
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      10-08-2014, 02:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselD View Post
Yeah how do I deleted the emissions system. and will I have inspection issues each year when it's time for the car to get an inspection? Does it actually help the car at all?
You have to have a mechanic remove it for you and install the aftermarket stuff. You may also have to sign a liability waiver etc etc.(Unless you can do it yourself which is difficult)

BUT since you have inspections do not consider the delete options. You will FAIL emissions inspection. As for does it help the car yes it does in performance, and reliability depending on the perspective. But since you live in an inspection state consider the warranty because again you will fail the inspection and the cost to have it re-speced each year will negate the benefits cost.
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      10-08-2014, 02:13 PM   #11
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This is a good thread thanks for starting it DieselD. I'm kind of in the same boat w/ recently acquired 335D car currently has 70k miles and I've visually checked the EGR body for CBU but all looks well. I plan to remove the intake covers and have a look at the valves this weekend. Car has done mostly highway miles which should help because the EGR valve is mostly in the closed position under those conditions

I want to do the DPF delete + tune and tune out the EGR at the same time but am not exactly sure where to start. Axel, you mentioned that a downpipe can be had from Jess in NY? I'm sorry but I was reading the 102 odd pages of the DPF delete thread you started but it seems that the downpipe is in short demand for our US spec cars. If I can have a downpipe that would be awesome just point me in the right direction. I love my car and want to do all I can to prevent the dreaded CBU.
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      10-08-2014, 02:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyninja87 View Post
This is a good thread thanks for starting it DieselD. I'm kind of in the same boat w/ recently acquired 335D car currently has 70k miles and I've visually checked the EGR body for CBU but all looks well. I plan to remove the intake covers and have a look at the valves this weekend. Car has done mostly highway miles which should help because the EGR valve is mostly in the closed position under those conditions

I want to do the DPF delete + tune and tune out the EGR at the same time but am not exactly sure where to start. Axel, you mentioned that a downpipe can be had from Jess in NY? I'm sorry but I was reading the 102 odd pages of the DPF delete thread you started but it seems that the downpipe is in short demand for our US spec cars. If I can have a downpipe that would be awesome just point me in the right direction. I love my car and want to do all I can to prevent the dreaded CBU.
The downpipe doesnt really prevent CBU. It just deletes your emissions as well as the headache that comes along with repairs but added performance increase. The EGR block(THIS will throw a code so you have to remove it for warranty) + Methanol will provide a better way of CBU prevention. But if you want one there on back order lol youre going to be in line for a bit but its worth. Note in a previous post anyone in inspection states unless you got a friend on the inside you are going to fail the inspections. NY being one of them they have both OBD2 and visual inspection.

This is a exact choice of your options if you want to continue owning the car(minor edit)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TadBoy View Post
I'd have the car scoped now to check for CBU. Have it blasted proactively before it gets too bad. I see three options:

1) get the warranty and keep it stock (other than JDB)
2) take the $$$ you'd spend on warranty to do an emissions system delete
3) sell once it's out of warranty
Option one you could probably get away with and EGR block+meth
Option two applys to everyone not in an inspection state(or someone with a friend in inspections)
Option three is well the last resort.
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      10-08-2014, 02:39 PM   #13
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lazyninja i sent you a PM contact Jess and let me know if you want the programming so I can give you the guys number ok
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      10-08-2014, 02:55 PM   #14
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So in the end of the day if I could block the EGR or put a downpipe it will help me all around. But I'm in NY which means I will fail Inspection so I am screwed.. Those days of having an inside guy are getting harder and harder. So basically I should get a warranty. Or do some upgrades and roll the dice..
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      10-08-2014, 02:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d View Post
lazyninja i sent you a PM contact Jess and let me know if you want the programming so I can give you the guys number ok

Can you send me the info for Jess also. So I can ask some questions too..
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      10-08-2014, 03:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d View Post
lazyninja i sent you a PM contact Jess and let me know if you want the programming so I can give you the guys number ok

Can you send me the info for Jess also. So I can ask some questions too..
Hey I'm jess.. **********************
Shoot me an email with any questions
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      10-08-2014, 03:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 2deerwhistlers View Post
Hey I'm jess.. **********************
Shoot me an email with any questions
Jess I just sent you an email from my office. Make sure it didn't go to Spam..
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      10-09-2014, 10:27 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=Nushibo;16750610]
So factor in the pipe + delete + labor + tune the cost runs about the same as warranty (+ or -). QUOTE]

Disagree with this. Granted i did the work myself but i'm betting it would have been about $300 for an indy to do it instead. $1200 (Eucotune) up front in costs for pipe and tune and then DIY or pay indy my guestimate of $300. This versus $3700 somebody else says for gold warranty.

A couple of us that did Ecotune route completely removed EGR cooler and blocked EGR inlet. All other used the block kit sold by user on this forum. I used the front plug from same kit on exhaust manifold side but at first used the metal disc from same kit. I eventually got a leak where boost pressure was coming OUT OF the EGR's inlet port. As we have completely beaten to death in discussion on DPF delete thread, my EGR is still opening and closing. I fabbed up a better way of blocking EGR inlet and no more boost leak.

I'm not faulting the block kit. I will point to guy i'm looking at in mirror.
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      10-09-2014, 12:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrecker335d View Post
Another guy from Suffolk, that makes 3 of us, lol. I live in Sayville.

Considering 6 injectors cost around $2800, the DDE runs $1500 and the CBU cleaning from a dealer can run $1000. I'd say it's slightly cheaper to get the warranty. The CBU will happen. I drive like a dick and had a JBD for a while. My car got CBU around 72,000 miles.
Think we need a Suffolk meet to talk about all the emissions bs and Beast stories.
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      10-09-2014, 01:23 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 135i_vs_ View Post
Think we need a Suffolk meet to talk about all the emissions bs and Beast stories.
after february and i'll see you there..

@DieselD

I would get OEM warranty for CBU coverage alone.
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      10-09-2014, 03:51 PM   #21
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[QUOTE=BB_cuda;16754915]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nushibo View Post
So factor in the pipe + delete + labor + tune the cost runs about the same as warranty (+ or -). QUOTE]

Disagree with this. Granted i did the work myself but i'm betting it would have been about $300 for an indy to do it instead. $1200 (Eucotune) up front in costs for pipe and tune and then DIY or pay indy my guestimate of $300. This versus $3700 somebody else says for gold warranty.

A couple of us that did Ecotune route completely removed EGR cooler and blocked EGR inlet. All other used the block kit sold by user on this forum. I used the front plug from same kit on exhaust manifold side but at first used the metal disc from same kit. I eventually got a leak where boost pressure was coming OUT OF the EGR's inlet port. As we have completely beaten to death in discussion on DPF delete thread, my EGR is still opening and closing. I fabbed up a better way of blocking EGR inlet and no more boost leak.

I'm not faulting the block kit. I will point to guy i'm looking at in mirror.
I don't disagree with you. My pricing is purely on what people would probably charge locally if I just went into a random shop here in West Palm. IF he could get a good deal I can say maybe 2000$ or less for everything tune+ labor and parts? on the upper end? But the fact is the safer route is OEM Warranty for those who don't have the ability to do the DIY or the tools.

Sure you save yourself 1.7-2k but what happens when CBU hits? Cleaning is around 800-1500$ depending on places even 2k at most. Then comes other problems such as the injectors which 1 alone cost anywhere between 300-500$ + labor on your own dime. I'm not saying the deletes arnt worth it they totally are.

I plan to have them done when the car is closer to 100k or payment is done and the car is mine. The gold warranty is an insurance policy for the likely hood of failures and from personal experience and from the members who dont have the mods such as meth,egr and delete. Its pretty high and so the warranty gives piece of mind as well. I dont have to worry for another 3 years/50k just take care of the oil changes, belts and fluids. While i prep the car for mods because i really want them but I dont have the tools necessary.
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      10-09-2014, 08:11 PM   #22
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I hear you guys. everyone makes sense in what they are saying. I was just trying to justify the expense of it and trying to have some peace of mind cause I drive the car Hard at all times.. my girl wants to throw up from the feeling of the torque when I has it all the time. I am just worried about laying out stupid money down the road for something that breaks and then wonder why I didn't just get the warranty. And from what I am told the Carbon Build Up isn't a warranty covered item. It's a Service item that we need to still pay for.
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