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Dreaded Waste Gate Pivot Rattle
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07-12-2015, 03:27 PM | #1 |
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Dreaded Waste Gate Pivot Rattle
So I just bought a 2008 Arctic Metallic BMW 335xi about a week ago from a car auction, but I did not realize the snake-like rattle noise coming from the engine until a few days ago. The car is at 92k miles so I just missed the extended warranty on the turbos . Besides replacing the turbos or upgrading to better turbos, are there any other options for me? Maybe purchasing an extended warranty from a third party company just in case the turbos do fail?
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07-12-2015, 04:51 PM | #2 |
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If the only symptom is rattle and they boost ok, you can redo your vacuum lines, check your boost solenoids for proper operation or replace, then try to tighten the wg arm. I would do all these before getting new turbos.
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07-13-2015, 02:00 AM | #3 |
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The turbos seem to boost ok, the cars pulls nice even stock. Thanks for your input ill definitely look into those asap!
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07-13-2015, 09:14 AM | #4 |
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Mine has being rattling ever since I got my mods done, I believe they were rattling already before, but the stock tune and downpipes masks the rattles very well.
Well it has being almos a year and I've since put ~16,000km on the car with them rattling away and so far no issues (got the dreaded boost too low error code at one point but that was caused by a frayed vacum line below one of the vacum can things). Now I think the rattle gives the car character!
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07 BMW E90 335i |JB4 + MHD Backend Flash (Pump) |AR Catless DPs|ER CP + Forge DVs|BMS DCIs + OCC|RB PCV valve + cap|
93 R33 Skyline GTS-T |SAFC-II piggyback|3" Turbo Back Exhaust + Highflow Cat|FMIC|Boost Tee|Apexi POD| Shitty Chinese spec tires = sideways action everywhere |
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07-13-2015, 03:41 PM | #6 |
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07-13-2015, 04:33 PM | #7 |
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Welcome to the club man. Call around your local area. I've found a few Indy shops that can fix it (a temporary fix at best) for you.
Rattling tin cans adding character?? > lol wow
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava |
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07-13-2015, 04:50 PM | #8 | |
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It's do able from the top the first time is kinda a pain but now I can do it in like 5 minutes. The biggest thing is finding a tool to turn the arm technically it's like a 4.5-5mm wrench and it's got to only be like an 1.5" long. I made my own with a drimmel tool and a scrap piece of metal. Otherwise you use a 10mm wrench to loosen the hold down nut by turning towards the engine. Then turn the rod away to tighten till most of the slack is out. You can giggle it and it will still have a tiny bit of play in the pin connection point on the lever but still most rattle will be gone. Most people say it takes 1-2 turns. Oh and use a light to see where you need to put your tools cause you will be working blind. And do it when car is completely cold |
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07-14-2015, 02:03 AM | #9 | |
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07-14-2015, 11:04 AM | #11 |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176269
Other members have said you can't reach the front turbo but it helps immensely. I've found Indy shops that are able to do this procedure if vacuum lines don't fix it first
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava Last edited by Jaronbwall; 07-14-2015 at 11:10 AM.. |
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