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2C7C and 2C2E error codes, few questions..
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08-22-2015, 10:21 PM | #1 |
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2C7C and 2C2E error codes, few questions..
Ok so I used my OTG cable and MHD to read the code and it says 27C7, 2C2E, and 29D1.
27C7 - Lambda probe behind catalytic converter 2, signal 2C2E - Lambda probe in front of catalytic converter 2, control failure or cable transmission failure? 29D1 Misfirings, cylinder 5 And I know that 29D1 can be diagnosed rather simply by swapping the coil around but for the other two, is there a chance that it could be something else causing these codes to trigger..?? For instance, I just drove 250 miles and burned through a quart of oil, topped my oil off when I got to my destination and just drove home and burned through another quart of oil.. It smokes upon cold start and sometimes when I'm at a stop sign or red light just idling.. I'm thinking valve seals or turbos, however 3 different BMW dealerships all diagnosed my car and said the turbos are fine but I have a leaking oil pan gasket, and I need a carbon cleaning.. Could these two make my car smoke and burn that much oil..? Also could my car smoking as bad as it is and burning through oil trigger the first two codes to go off..?? Any input is greatly appreciated..
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08-23-2015, 12:54 AM | #3 |
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Since I just replaced all 6 injectors last week and changed my oil should I reset my adaptations?
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08-24-2015, 06:43 AM | #5 |
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Just curious, if one or more rings were shot wouldn't I be losing compression and throw a check engine light for that..?
Thanks!
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08-24-2015, 08:15 PM | #6 | |
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http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32981 |
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08-25-2015, 12:01 AM | #8 |
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I felt the same way when I read it . I bought a $20 borescope, removed injectors/plugs and checked for oil. Granted, it's not as in depth as removing everything and looking at it directly but it's something.
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08-25-2015, 10:43 AM | #9 |
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I think maybe i'll attend to these items first before I rip the head off and keep my fingers crossed the entire time..
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08-25-2015, 07:57 PM | #10 |
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Oil pan gasket it easy enough to check, but a real bitch to replace. Did one about 18 months ago - you have to drop the front subframe to get to it. Big $$ repair at a shop.
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08-25-2015, 08:29 PM | #12 |
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Yup, about $60 in parts and the rest labor. I did it in my garage - it was fun :-)
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03-06-2017, 03:38 PM | #13 |
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Just to update this thread, it ended up being a clogged drain on my rear turbo.. New turbos fixed the issue, the codes, smoking, etc.. Car's been running fine ever since..
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03-06-2017, 04:41 PM | #14 | |
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This is one of the reasons why I'm going to put some Berryman B-12 into the crankcase a couple hundred miles before my next oil change. CarFax showed the first 4 or 5 oil changes on my previously-owned 134k miler as being done every 15k miles or so. That's way more miles than I would've done it at, especially on a turbo-charged vehicle.
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03-06-2017, 04:51 PM | #15 | |
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03-06-2017, 05:22 PM | #16 | |
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Exaggeration I knew, but still good advice to be weary of anyone when money and job security are involved. There are a LOT of unscrupulous types in the automotive industry, especially some independent shops. I've seen what happens first hand on unmaintained vehicles so I try to take excellent care of mine, both from a preventative, but also a performance, perspective.
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03-07-2017, 09:11 AM | #17 | |
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03-07-2017, 01:33 PM | #18 | |
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I was worried that the 2C2E was wiring or DME related since I just replaced the O2 sensors, and I still get the failure, which made me think it wasn't reading anything. When I removed that sensor, it was solid black, so I'm hoping its a similar situation as yours since I have new turbos coming soon, and not something internal. |
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03-07-2017, 02:15 PM | #19 | |
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I wonder just how much of a difference putting some Berryman, or Seafoam, or similar crankcase treatments will help break down this sludge build up in the nooks and crannies N54s have. PCV system on these is a perfect example. How effective might it be, or not be, if left cleaners were left to circulate awhile? I've put Seafoam in the crankcase on some older cars that I'd just purchased and changed the oil in, and I was amazed at how thick and goopy that new oil was after just a few dozen miles of driving. Apparently it broke down that sludge well enough to liquefy it, mix it, and allow me to drain it. Subsequent oil changes with more Seafoam appeared much cleaner, and since the cars ran smoother I figure it had to be doing something good.
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03-07-2017, 03:58 PM | #20 | |||
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03-07-2017, 04:00 PM | #21 | |
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03-07-2017, 04:50 PM | #22 | |
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