[overdrivex]

I've been searching around about these extractor pumps, and there seems to be a lot of people who say that they work great. Does anyone here use one or have used one, and would you recommend purchasing one for oil changes? The one I'm looking at is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-L...=oil+extractor

[Wolf 335]

Where do you plan on inserting it?

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Where do you plan on inserting it?

I would say through where the 7 quarts of oil is filled would be the place. On other forums for other carmakers people stick it down where the dipstick is, and since our car has an electronic dipstick (unfortunately) I would assume thats where the dipstick SHOULD be, if we had one.

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

I would say through where the 7 quarts of oil is filled would be the place. On other forums for other carmakers people stick it down where the dipstick is, and since our car has an electronic dipstick (unfortunately) I would assume thats where the dipstick SHOULD be, if we had one.

I used it on my E46 and it worked great, but it won't work on the E90. The oil fill doesn't lead down to the pan.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by kkasson

I used it on my E46 and it worked great, but it won't work on the E90. The oil fill doesn't lead down to the pan.

Oh, I didn't know that. Thanks for letting me know! Looks like if I want to do an oil change I'll have to crawl under the car with jackstands...which scares the hell out of me! I'm afraid of the car falling on me...that would be a painful death.

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

Oh, I didn't know that. Thanks for letting me know! Looks like if I want to do an oil change I'll have to crawl under the car with jackstands...which scares the hell out of me! I'm afraid of the car falling on me...that would be a painful death.

I mean it leads back to the oil pan eventually because the oil has to get there somehow, but where you pour the oil is right on to the camshafts and it drains back through the small drain passages. The tube would never make it through.

The drain bolt is pretty accessible...you should be able to reach it without having to put too much of your body underneath the car. I always try to stay as far out as I can just to be safe, and you can still reach it pretty well once the car is in the air.

[Efthreeoh]

Just pay someone to change the oil for you. Most dealers charge $80, which is about $25 more than just the oil and filter part cost. You do not have enough knowledge about cars to be performing maintenance on them. So for $25 just get it changed at a local BMW dealer or BMW shop.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by kkasson

I mean it leads back to the oil pan eventually because the oil has to get there somehow, but where you pour the oil is right on to the camshafts and it drains back through the small drain passages. The tube would never make it through.

The drain bolt is pretty accessible...you should be able to reach it without having to put too much of your body underneath the car. I always try to stay as far out as I can just to be safe, and you can still reach it pretty well once the car is in the air.

Thanks! Yeah I have the bentley service manual, and I've watched some videos on changing the oil in the E92, and it looks like the drain plug is pretty close to the front. I'll just have to get over my fear of working under the car.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just pay someone to change the oil for you. Most dealers charge $80, which is about $25 more than just the oil and filter part cost. You do not have enough knowledge about cars to be performing maintenance on them. So for $25 just get it changed at a local BMW dealer or BMW shop.

We all gotta start somewhere...I don't know about you, but I wasn't born with engine diagrams in my head.

[Efthreeoh]

Okay, if you've bought the Bentley then it seems you are serious about doing some DIY. I was not trying to be offensive before, but you asked a question that really shows you have no idea what is inside of an engine, which indicates your level of mechanical knowledge is pretty low. I was merely trying to prevent you from damaging the car or hurting yourself. It is not worth trying to save $25 on an oil change by working on the car yourself if you have no mechanical aptitude. There are professional mechanics not trained on BMW that can screw BMWs up royal. Being you are apprehensive of getting underneath the car to work on it indicates you are a novice, so having a novice working on a BMW usually doesn't turn out well.

To answer your question, no I wasn't born with engine schematics in my head, no one is, but here's what you did... You discovered that there is a device called an oil extractor that is used to suck oil out of the engine oil sump via the dipstick tube. You also know the N52 engine in your car doesn't have a dipstick, so you question whether you can use the oil extractor in some other manner than it is designed for. Someone questions you on that point and you reply that maybe the oil extractor tube can be used in the oil fill opening in the valve cover. But you could have answered your own question just looking into the oil fill hole with a flashlight and see that the valve train is in the way (with no knowledge that the cylinder head is bolted atop the cylinders and there is no direct path to the oil sump). All this tells us here on the Forum that your level of mechanical knowledge and experience at this point is not at a level where you should attempt an oil change.

But to help out, here's my suggestion. If you are serious about doing some DIY on your car, first get the proper tools. Working under the car is completely safe if the car is properly lifted and supported with jackstands. All modern BMWs have "lift points" on the side sills of the chassis just before and aft of the rear and front wheels. This is where jackstands are placed once the car is lifted. To lift the car using a floor jack, there is a center-front and center-rear "jacking point", which are used to lift the entire front of the car, where then jackstands are placed under the lifting points (lift blocks) I mentioned. Then the rear can be lifted in the same manner and jackstands placed under the rear lifting blocks. You can search the DIY section on how to correctly lift the E90 chassis. If you search on "trolly" you'll find my DIY from years ago.

If the car is supported on 4 jackstands with the wheels off the ground it will not fall on you. However, get the correct stands. Most jackstands sold at the common auto parts stores are known as "axle" stands and are meant for being placed under car axles. For BMWs you need a jackstand with a flat top. The ESCO (brand) 10498 stand is perfect for supporting BMWs. Further, you need a special floor jack with a long-reach, low saddle, so it can reach under the front end and reach the center jack point. There are several suitable jacks you can get. Google "long reach floor jack", or "low saddle long reach floor jack", and you'll find some to buy.

Good luck with learning how to DIY. It might be a good idea to have someone work with you who knows how to work on cars in the beginning.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, if you've bought the Bentley then it seems you are serious about doing some DIY. I was not trying to be offensive before, but you asked a question that really shows you have no idea what is inside of an engine, which indicates your level of mechanical knowledge is pretty low. I was merely trying to prevent you from damaging the car or hurting yourself. It is not worth trying to save $25 on an oil change by working on the car yourself if you have no mechanical aptitude. There are professional mechanics not trained on BMW that can screw BMWs up royal. Being you are apprehensive of getting underneath the car to work on it indicates you are a novice, so having a novice working on a BMW usually doesn't turn out well.

To answer your question, no I wasn't born with engine schematics in my head, no one is, but here's what you did... You discovered that there is a device called an oil extractor that is used to suck oil out of the engine oil sump via the dipstick tube. You also know the N52 engine in your car doesn't have a dipstick, so you question whether you can use the oil extractor in some other manner than it is designed for. Someone questions you on that point and you reply that maybe the oil extractor tube can be used in the oil fill opening in the valve cover. But you could have answered your own question just looking into the oil fill hole with a flashlight and see that the valve train is in the way (with no knowledge that the cylinder head is bolted atop the cylinders and there is no direct path to the oil sump). All this tells us here on the Forum that your level of mechanical knowledge and experience at this point is not at a level where you should attempt an oil change.

But to help out, here's my suggestion. If you are serious about doing some DIY on your car, first get the proper tools. Working under the car is completely safe if the car is properly lifted and supported with jackstands. All modern BMWs have "lift points" on the side sills of the chassis just before and aft of the rear and front wheels. This is where jackstands are placed once the car is lifted. To lift the car using a floor jack, there is a center-front and center-rear "jacking point", which are used to lift the entire front of the car, where then jackstands are placed under the lifting points (lift blocks) I mentioned. Then the rear can be lifted in the same manner and jackstands placed under the rear lifting blocks. You can search the DIY section on how to correctly lift the E90 chassis. If you search on "trolly" you'll find my DIY from years ago.

If the car is supported on 4 jackstands with the wheels off the ground it will not fall on you. However, get the correct stands. Most jackstands sold at the common auto parts stores are known as "axle" stands and are meant for being placed under car axles. For BMWs you need a jackstand with a flat top. The ESCO (brand) 10498 stand is perfect for supporting BMWs. Further, you need a special floor jack with a long-reach, low saddle, so it can reach under the front end and reach the center jack point. There are several suitable jacks you can get. Google "long reach floor jack", or "low saddle long reach floor jack", and you'll find some to buy.

Good luck with learning how to DIY. It might be a good idea to have someone work with you who knows how to work on cars in the beginning.

Thank you! Yeah, I'm new to the whole DIY scene, and am interested in starting to do some simple DIY things myself and then hopefully move on to some bigger things with time and more knowledge. I have a low profile floor jack which is rated at 1.5 tons. Its not long reach, so I'll have to look into that. As for jack stands, I've researched the ESCO and they seem to look like very nice jack stands. I looked under the car and see the lifting points, so I can understand why the flat top ESCO would be the best choice for the BMW. Also, rubber wheel chocks would be needed too if only two wheels are off the ground right? I've also been researching and people say to have some kind of backup mechanism under the car while its on jackstands so that in case they do fail, theres less chance of the car falling on top of you.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

Thank you! Yeah, I'm new to the whole DIY scene, and am interested in starting to do some simple DIY things myself and then hopefully move on to some bigger things with time and more knowledge. I have a low profile floor jack which is rated at 1.5 tons. Its not long reach, so I'll have to look into that. As for jack stands, I've researched the ESCO and they seem to look like very nice jack stands. I looked under the car and see the lifting points, so I can understand why the flat top ESCO would be the best choice for the BMW. Also, rubber wheel chocks would be needed too if only two wheels are off the ground right? I've also been researching and people say to have some kind of backup mechanism under the car while its on jackstands so that in case they do fail, theres less chance of the car falling on top of you.

I've written this many times on the Forum. Every time you work on the car just put it on four (4) jackstands so that all 4 wheels are off the ground. The car can not roll if all 4 wheels are off the ground. Additionally, there is not one thing you could work on that would knock a car off 4 jackstands if the jacksands are the correct type like the ESCO stands are. It seems like extra work to put the car on 4 stands just for an oil change but it's really only 5 - 10 minutes extra work, which is a small time to pay for your safety.

I use a lift in my garage, which is no different than using 4 stands to support the car. I don't even think twice about it, like even torqueing down a crankshaft bolt to 230 ft/lb. Just get 4 good stands and a good floor jack, you'll pay back the cost of them with in a year of DIYing maintenance and repairs.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I've written this many times on the Forum. Every time you work on the car just put it on four (4) jackstands so that all 4 wheels are off the ground. The car can not roll if all 4 wheels are off the ground. Additionally, there is not one thing you could work on that would knock a car off 4 jackstands if the jacksands are the correct type like the ESCO stands are. It seems like extra work to put the car on 4 stands just for an oil change but it's really only 5 - 10 minutes extra work, which is a small time to pay for your safety.

I use a lift in my garage, which is no different than using 4 stands to support the car. I don't even think twice about it, like even torqueing down a crankshaft bolt to 230 ft/lb. Just get 4 good stands and a good floor jack, you'll pay back the cost of them with in a year of DIYing maintenance and repairs.

Thanks! I'll invest in the ESCO jackstands and a good floor jack. I'll also buy some wheel chocks though, just in case I decide to keep two wheels on the ground instead of having all four off the ground; wouldn't hurt to buy something extra just in case.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

Thanks! I'll invest in the ESCO jackstands and a good floor jack. I'll also buy some wheel chocks though, just in case I decide to keep two wheels on the ground instead of having all four off the ground; wouldn't hurt to buy something extra just in case.

You are seriously missing my point. BMW has designed in safety when supporting the car by providing four (4) lift points that are supposed to all be used at the same time. If you have the car only up on two (2) stands under the lift points and the other end wheels are on the ground there is now a component of a side loading on the stands. If the wheel chocks fail (move out of place) the car can roll off the stands because the side load force can push the stands over. If the car is on top of 4 stands, one under each lifting block, the car weight (force) is only in one direction, which is straight down over the stands, so there is no side load on the stands and therefore the car can not fall off the stands.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

You are seriously missing my point. BMW has designed in safety when supporting the car by providing four (4) lift points that are supposed to all be used at the same time. If you have the car only up on two (2) stands under the lift points and the other end wheels are on the ground there is now a component of a side loading on the stands. If the wheel chocks fail (move out of place) the car can roll off the stands because the side load force can push the stands over. If the car is on top of 4 stands, one under each lifting block, the car weight (force) is only in one direction, which is straight down over the stands, so there is no side load on the stands and therefore the car can not fall off the stands.

I've seen many people with BMWs lifting them on only two jack stands with the rear wheels still on the ground though? I mean, everywhere else I've researched, I'm getting the contrary to what you're saying. At other places, its stated that "No matter if the vehicle is on four jack stands or two, you should still always have a backup mechanism in place, because things can fail." I've even seen here on this forum, of people only lifting with two jack stands, and some people even using only ramps.

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

I've seen many people with BMWs lifting them on only two jack stands with the rear wheels still on the ground though? I mean, everywhere else I've researched, I'm getting the contrary to what you're saying. At other places, its stated that "No matter if the vehicle is on four jack stands or two, you should still always have a backup mechanism in place, because things can fail." I've even seen here on this forum, of people only lifting with two jack stands, and some people even using only ramps.

I believe he is getting you to do things the correct and safe way to mitigate a point of failure. Do people do it with only two jack stands (Including me)?? Heck yes!

Point is since you are now learning how to do things, you should learn the correct way and safe way before cutting corners or try to save time. It is worth saving a life or yours.

Quick Side Note: I use a pair of Rhino ramps to do oil changes.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

I believe he is getting you to do things the correct and safe way to mitigate a point of failure. Do people do it with only two jack stands (Including me)?? Heck yes!

Point is since you are now learning how to do things, you should learn the correct way and safe way before cutting corners or try to save time. It is worth saving a life or yours.

Quick Side Note: I use a pair of Rhino ramps to do oil changes.

Thanks. I've just read that sometimes putting the car up on four jack stands isn't as safe as putting it up on two, but seems like its different then for BMWs. I'm still learning and researching, sorry if anything comes off as a dumb thing to say...because well, I am still not knowledgable yet about the DIY side of BMWs (or any car, really).

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

Thanks. I've just read that sometimes putting the car up on four jack stands isn't as safe as putting it up on two, but seems like its different then for BMWs. I'm still learning and researching, sorry if anything comes off as a dumb thing to say...because well, I am still not knowledgable yet about the DIY side of BMWs (or any car, really).

Hey, it's better to ask than to just assume. We are only trying to guide you in the right direction.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by overdrivex

Thanks. I've just read that sometimes putting the car up on four jack stands isn't as safe as putting it up on two, but seems like its different then for BMWs. I'm still learning and researching, sorry if anything comes off as a dumb thing to say...because well, I am still not knowledgable yet about the DIY side of BMWs (or any car, really).

What I explained to you is just physics and has nothing to do with what people think they know is the correct technique. Having the car placed on 4 jack stands places the load on the jack stand in the proper direction the stand was designed for (i.e. straight down). You have to understand engineering principles. Most structural products such as jackstands are designed with a 4:1 rating built into the design, meaning the stand can take a load of 4 times the weight rating before it would structurally fail. The ESCO stand is not going to collapse. Now if the car is only on two stands and a component (force vector) of the load is not straight down on the stand, it could fall over. If the car is on 4 stands on a solid, level surface, and all 4 stands are at an even height, the car can't fall off without some high amount of sideways force applied to the body (i.e. like another car running into it). It is not a difficult concept to grasp that if one of the wheels of the car is on the ground the car can roll (because the wheel is round and designed to roll). It is also easy to understand that if none of the wheels are on the ground the car can't roll (off the stand).

The last thing you'd ever want to do is only put 2 ESCO stands under the car since the lifting block surface would not be parallel with the flat top of the stand.

This all goes for any car, not just BMWs. All cars chassis are marked where the lifting points (for an automotive lift) are on the frame. Generally the frame has a triangle mark stamped into the metal indicating where to put the lift arm foot to engage the frame. With most German brands, they use some sort of plastic lifting block similar to what BMW uses.

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

Hey, it's better to ask than to just assume. We are only trying to guide you in the right direction.

Thank you! Yeah I want to start some DIY so I'm going with the advice that has been said here. I'm going to get 4 ESCO Jack stands; those look to be like one of the best available. I'm going to see if my jack will reach under the car to the jack point, and if not, I'll get a long range jack. What about any backup safety items/procedures do you guys recommend?

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

What I explained to you is just physics and has nothing to do with what people think they know is the correct technique. Having the car placed on 4 jack stands places the load on the jack stand in the proper direction the stand was designed for (i.e. straight down). You have to understand engineering principles. Most structural products such as jackstands are designed with a 4:1 rating built into the design, meaning the stand can take a load of 4 times the weight rating before it would structurally fail. The ESCO stand is not going to collapse. Now if the car is only on two stands and a component (force vector) of the load is not straight down on the stand, it could fall over. If the car is on 4 stands on a solid, level surface, and all 4 stands are at an even height, the car can't fall off without some high amount of sideways force applied to the body (i.e. like another car running into it).

The last thing you'd ever want to do is only put 2 ESCO stands under the car since the lifting block surface would not be parallel with the flat top of the stand.

Oh okay that makes sense thank you! Yeah, I can see how two jack stands wouldn't be as safe then. I'll have to get four ESCO stands so that I can do this safely. Now, as for jacking up the car, the central jack point on the front is what I should use, and for the back, I should place it on the center of the rear differential?

[Dhillon92]

Rhino ramps are pretty solid for a beginner, u simply drive onto them (have someone guide you so you dont just drive over them LOL, it does happen). Pull the handbrake(and put it in gear if manual trans), and u can crawl under the car and learn a lot by just looking.

On my xdrive with stock suspension, I can literally reach my drain plug without lifting the car at all LOL (I'm 6'2 and my arms got quite the reach). Drain, let it drain for a bit, hand thread drain bolt, ratchet it in, pour from engine cap. Although sometimes I do jack up a corner just a bit if I want to be more comfortable, but jack stands are the way to go!

[overdrivex]

Originally Posted by Dhillon92

Rhino ramps are pretty solid for a beginner, u simply drive onto them (have someone guide you so you dont just drive over them LOL, it does happen). Pull the handbrake(and put it in gear if manual trans), and u can crawl under the car and learn a lot by just looking.

On my xdrive with stock suspension, I can literally reach my drain plug without lifting the car at all LOL (I'm 6'2 and my arms got quite the reach). Drain, let it drain for a bit, hand thread drain bolt, ratchet it in, pour from engine cap. Although sometimes I do jack up a corner just a bit if I want to be more comfortable, but jack stands are the way to go!

Thanks! I'm thinking I'll go with the jack stands though just to be safe. I didn't know you could reach the drain plug without lifting the car on your stock suspension! I can't seem to do that, and I also have a xi. But then again, I'm quite a bit shorter (5' 10")!