[ontopofm]

anyone know where to get those now? i searched and contacted many sellers but seem like they're on back order right now. ty

[ubern00b]

when you find out, let me know. lol.

[ontopofm]

i even contacted earthquake corp. in san jose, they said it will be available at the end of June

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

anyone know where to get those now? i searched and contacted many sellers but seem like they're on back order right now. ty

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-EARTHQUAKE-S...QQcmdZViewItem

[ontopofm]

THANKS

[ontopofm]

is this amp as good as alpine mrd m500 which is on back order right now? enough to power earthquake sws-8?
Rockford Fosgate Punch P325.1

325 Watt Mono Amplifier
Our Price: $135.00
MSRP: $299.00
You Save: $164.00 (54%)
Condition: Brand New, Factory Sealed
Avg. Rating:
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Rate and read reviews.
Technical Specification
RMS Power Range : 175 Watts
Number Of Channels: 1
Maximum Power: 325 Watts
Low Frequency response: 20 Hz
High Frequency Response: 20000 Hz
Built In Crossovers: Yes
Channel Separation: Yes

Features
Rated Power: 175W x 1 @ 4-Ohms RMS
continuous power: 325W x 1 @ 2-Ohms RMS
Total Power: 325 Watts
4 Gauge power/ground connections with built-in ATC fusing
Aux Ouputs
Connector Cover
Focused mass heatsink design
Stealth Connections
Thermal Sensing
Top Mounted LED Indicators
Crossover Controls: High-Pass (HP): 40-400Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 40-400Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Tone Controls Bass: 0dB to +18dB @ 45Hz
Signal Input Low level: 1 RCA pair
Signal Output Low level: 1 RCA pair
Block Power Input Connector
4 AWG Power Wire Gauge
Screw terminal barrier strip Speaker Output Connector
8 AWG to 18 AWG Speaker Wire Gauge
Cast aluminum Heat Sink
Convection Cooling
Punch Bass EQ (included with cable) Remote Controls
Visual Indicators: Power On, Signal Level, Thermal Status, Speaker protection
Class-bd Circuit Topology
Frequency Response: 20Hz to 20kHz +/- 0.5 dB
Dimensions (HxWxL): 2.1 x 11 x 11.7 (in), 5.3 x 27.9 x 29.7 (cm)

[LaYzEe]

that amp looks pretty good. it'll power the SWS subs nicely.

[sageashton]

Ummmm... while I am certainly not a pro, if you have 175w rms, on one channel and 150 rms over two speakers shouldn't you be aiming for closer to 300w rms?

[imaznumkay]

Originally Posted by sageashton

Ummmm... while I am certainly not a pro, if you have 175w rms, on one channel and 150 rms over two speakers shouldn't you be aiming for closer to 300w rms?

i think it will power them fine when you run it in parellel....not sure though

[ontopofm]

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~75836~PN~1

3. Efficiency. Here's where you will be able to tell a decent manufacturer from the crap. Let's say you are looking at an 250 watt (RMS) amplifier. The first physical thing I look at, is how big a fuse do they recommend (or what size fuse is in the end of the amp)? I know right now that 250 watts OUT will demand (and I use 50% efficiency to keep it simple) 500 watts in. 500 watts in, divided by the (car running) battery voltage (14.4v) is about 35A. If I look at the end of the amp, and see a 20A fuse, I'm walking away, as there is no way that amp can make 250 REAL watts, continuously. 14.4v times 20A, equals 280 watts in. 250 watts out, divided by 280 watts in, translates to an 89% efficiency. In a class A/B amp, this is an impossible number, and it even stretches the imagination for digital amps, as well. The theoretical MAXIMUM efficiency for class A/B is 66%, (95% for digital) so someone is lying. I don't care WHO the manufacturer is, if these numbers don't add up, I will start looking elsewhere... Now, if all the other specification look good, AND I can get in the vicinity of the RMS power I am looking for, I will buy an amp that's efficiency number might be stretching the truth a bit. My old Nak 160 watt monoblocks had 40A (that's 480 watts in - a 33% efficiency, people!) fuses in each one, and they ran hotter than a firecracker, even loaded at over 8 ohms. I liked that.

that amp has a 40A fuse, according to the above it make 480 watts, 33% efficiency, i dont know anything about car audio system or what brands are good, if you guys have to choose, which brand would you pick? here are a few options: alpine, rockford fosgate, kicker, mxt, can't afford jl,

[Technic]

Originally Posted by sageashton

Ummmm... while I am certainly not a pro, if you have 175w rms, on one channel and 150 rms over two speakers shouldn't you be aiming for closer to 300w rms?

That amp will put out 325W RMS into 2 ohms so a pair of SWS-8 in parallel will be set with that kind of power.

[VP Electricity]

I'm struggling with whether I want to run those in mono...

[ontopofm]

you mean those sws-8 sub? why dont you want to run them in mono? cant handle the power?

[LaYzEe]

Im using an MTX mono amp for my sws' subs (my avatar)

[VP Electricity]

Not worried about the power. But I am worried that I would lose directional mid-bass information if I changed those from running in stereo to running in mono. I get that tonally they are an improvement, but anyone do any testing to see if they are in stereo from the factory?

We know that the human ear doesn't discern direction well from sub-bass - which is 50 Hz and down. We have ongoing debate about the region from 50 to 300 Hz. Bass musically starts at 300 Hz. Some folks don't hear any directional info below 300, some seem to. I know that I seem to.

It's useful to remember that we hear sounds on both sides of the crossover point - both from within the passband at full volume, and from within the stopband, at a reduced volume. So even if a speaker has a crossover of 90 Hz, we hear sound coming from it well above 90 hz.

So if I have a woofer 4" under my ass, and another one on the other side of the car, how much directional information do I have available to me? I don't know. I don't know for certain if the BMW system runs those in full mono - worth a test using the AUX in jack one of these days - or not.

It would simplify my life mightily if they are run in mono, when I install the DSP-6 and the rest of my system this summer. But in that system I am planning on forcing these to play higher than they seem to in the OEM configuration.

[ontopofm]

do you guys think it's a good idea to replace the oem subs and add another sub in the trunk? and will i need another amp to power the the sub in the trunk? will the sound be ideal since diff subs may produce diff sound? sorry for too much questions. ty guys

[sageashton]

VP, I ran the SWS's in stereo and mono. I now run them mono and honestly can only tell a little bit. Still sounds great to me.

Ontopofm, I think running power to the subs under the seat is the smartest thing to do, first. Then if you want more you can always put something in the trunk. Personally, I don't think you need it if you power some SWS-8s under there.

[Technic]

The OEM amp runs the OEM subs in stereo: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...82&postcount=1

[LaYzEe]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

do you guys think it's a good idea to replace the oem subs and add another sub in the trunk? and will i need another amp to power the the sub in the trunk? will the sound be ideal since diff subs may produce diff sound? sorry for too much questions. ty guys

If you really really want super low bass, then you're stuck getting larger subs like two 10s or a 12 in the trunk because the 8 inch subs wont cut it that well. Don't get me wrong though, replacing the OEM subs under the seats were my best mods I've done in the car becuase the OEM ones were so crappy .

IMO, the 2 SWS' are very good replacements to get that extra thump the Logic7 really needed. I know these subs can do better but i think either the enclosure or something is preventing it from getting "bassier"

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by Technic

The OEM amp runs the OEM subs in stereo: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...82&postcount=1

Maybe I'm missing something... but this only seems to indicate that the subs have individual wire taps for L and R, which I would expect. I would also expect each sub to have its own channel - but they could be paralleled internal to the amp. But what I don't know - and can't see from these diagrams - is if the L and R channels driving the L and R subs are a summed mono signal.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

do you guys think it's a good idea to replace the oem subs and add another sub in the trunk? and will i need another amp to power the the sub in the trunk? will the sound be ideal since diff subs may produce diff sound? sorry for too much questions. ty guys

I have had great results using the underseat for midbass only - not expecting sub bass from them - and running a single 10" in the trunk for actual sub bass. Not looking for a ton of bass, but like it to play most freqs accurately.

[ontopofm]

how many subs can 1 mono amp power?