[dustinsterk]

I am installing stainless steel brake lines and have reached my limit. Anyone have a final suggestion on how to brake the seized hard lines on the underside of the e92? These two lines are not only impossible to access, they are completely seized in rust. I have already snapped one of the lines, luckily it was the short replaceable one. Literally 3 days of soaking in PB blaster and nothing but twisting of the hardline while trying to break them loose. Should I just give up?

[feuer]

Try Kroil and torch.

[King Rudi]

Originally Posted by feuer

Try Kroil and torch.

Good stuff! "the oil that creeps"

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by feuer

Try Kroil and torch.

Thanks. Just ordered a can, expensive stuff. I'll give it a whirl.

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by dustinsterk

Thanks. Just ordered a can, expensive stuff. I'll give it a whirl.

Stupid question....is that oil flammable? A little nervous with the torch since the fuel tank is right above the location of the connections.

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by dustinsterk

Stupid question....is that oil flammable? A little nervous with the torch since the fuel tank is right above the location of the connections.

According to their SDS sheet it is flammable.

http://www.kanolabs.com/MSDS2015/AER...5-15%20(1).pdf

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

According to their SDS sheet it is flammable.

http://www.kanolabs.com/MSDS2015/AEROKROIL%206-15-15%20(1).pdf

Hmmm. I was afraid of that. Will try the liquid first and report back.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by dustinsterk

Hmmm. I was afraid of that. Will try the liquid first and report back.

It is flammable but you can spray brake cleaner first, let it dry and go with the torch, but yes, first try if it breaks loose without torch.

[000ooo000]

I feel like a torch always helps more than any penetrating oil. Also I think the oil will just smoke and won't actually catch on fire, at least thats been my experience.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

You need to use a torch, it will come loose right away. $15 for a torch vs $50 for hardline. Wipe those oil off before you torch it

[000ooo000]

Also don't get the cheap torch. Opt for the benzomatic 4000 or 8000 one. Works great for those hard to get out things.

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by 000ooo000

Also don't get the cheap torch. Opt for the benzomatic 4000 or 8000 one. Works great for those hard to get out things.

Thanks all, liquid arrives tomorrow. How long do I need to heat these bad boys up with the torch?

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda

You need to use a torch, it will come loose right away. $15 for a torch vs $50 for hardline. Wipe those oil off before you torch it

And yeah, already snapped the hardline so $50 mistake arrives tomorrow as well.

[Emilime75]

I'd heat for about 30 seconds and try it. Adjust to taste from there. Try to move the flame around to distribute the heat as evenly as you can around the fitting. Also, try to focus the heat on the fitting, not the line.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

I'd heat for about 30 seconds and try it. Adjust to taste from there. Try to move the flame around to distribute the heat as evenly as you can around the fitting. Also, try to focus the heat on the fitting, not the line.

30 sec would melt the line. Ironically the hardline is actually pretty soft. Around 10 sec and slowly move it, then if it still doesnt move so another 10sec. Agree with what you said focus on the fitting

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by dustinsterk

And yeah, already snapped the hardline so $50 mistake arrives tomorrow as well.

Which one did you snap?

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda

Which one did you snap?

I snapped the hardline that goes from the underside connection the the driver side rear wheel. $45 plus shipping from FCP.

[Emilime75]

No, it wouldn't melt it, not with straight propane...been there.

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda

30 sec would melt the line. Ironically the hardline is actually pretty soft. Around 10 sec and slowly move it, then if it still doesnt move so another 10sec. Agree with what you said focus on the fitting

Thank you. I will give it a try. Do you know what the white line/hose that is running next to these connections are? Just want to ensure it is not a fuel line.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

No, it wouldn't melt it, not with straight propane...been there.

Been there too, melted it

[dustinsterk]

Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda

Been there too, melted it

Well after 3 hours of torching, oil, and cutting my hands the nuts broke free......BUT for the life of me I am unable to spin those bolts more than one maybe two rotations a 1/10 of a turn at a time. I have given up and retightened the existing lines back down. I thank everyone who explained the tricks of rusted brake lines and commend anyone who has actually replaced those two lines. Yes, I also bought the pivoting line wrenches just for this job as others suggested - but with my big hands and the tight space it just is not happening. If anyone lives in northern NJ who had success in swapping them out, I would gladly pay you to finish these final two.

[Volasko]

Been there done that trying to swap my rear flex lines between the chassis hard lines and rear subframe hardlines. Nothing worked and gave up and handed to my trusted indy. He tried every trick he knew and ended up cutting them off and re-flare'ing the hardlines. I understand the frustration my friend, sometimes there is nothing you can do.