[Mik325tds]

Hello, I'm trying to help a friend who has rebuild his engine (E90 335d) and now gets a DTC in his CAS: A0 C1 64 - KL50L faulty. The starter just clicks but barely moves the engine before being disengaged. We check CAS - DDE allignment and that seems to be okay. Obviously, there is enough battery, checked fuses, crankshaft sensor, etc.
We tried flashing with WinKFP from 9278746 to 9395656 or 9389116 but I always get "conditions not correct or sequence error", "failed to enter programming mode". Reading other post with bricked CAS, I learned this probably was because we left the keys in the ignition. We probably should refrain from flashing with a USB cable.
Sensible_, you speak of a backup plan - is there a way to recover a CAS with bench flashing?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

...Hello, I'm trying to help a friend who has rebuild his engine (E90 335d) and now gets a DTC in his CAS: A0 C1 64 - KL50L faulty. The starter just clicks but barely moves the engine before being disengaged...

Not sure what you read that code with, but Terminal 50 (Kl.50) is active during the Start signal to the Starter Solenoid from the CAS. In this TIS circuit diagram, that signal goes from CAS to Starter Solenoid as 12V+ via the Black wire from Pin #22 of Connector X13376 at the CAS to the Starter Solenoid at the Starter Motor, M6510a; NOTE that the wire passes through Connector X6011 in the E-box (2nd link) where you can test it if you can't get to the Solenoid itself (INPA can also test Kl.50 voltage).

It may simply be a failure to properly reconnect wiring between the E-box and Starter Solenoid. Ground Strap??:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335d-lim/RY9Z1BC

George

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Not sure what you read that code with, but Terminal 50 (Kl.50) is active during the Start signal to the Starter Solenoid from the CAS. In this TIS circuit diagram, that signal goes from CAS to Starter Solenoid as 12V+ via the Black wire from Pin #22 of Connector X13376 at the CAS to the Starter Solenoid at the Starter Motor, M6510a; NOTE that the wire passes through Connector X6011 in the E-box (2nd link) where you can test it if you can't get to the Solenoid itself (INPA can also test Kl.50 voltage).

It may simply be a failure to properly reconnect wiring between the E-box and Starter Solenoid. Ground Strap??:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335d-lim/RY9Z1BC

George

Thanks for your feedback, George. I read the faults remotely with Ediabas and didn't copy the full text just the code.
The Ground strap is connected and the wiring to the solenoid tests fine. The starter does activate for a split second and we can hear it click in the CAS.
Any other suggestions?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

...The Ground strap is connected and the wiring to the solenoid tests fine. The starter does activate for a split second and we can hear it click in the CAS. Any other suggestions?

I've never done a CAS autopsy, but I'm NOT aware of anything in the CAS that should "click", so I would first want to identify the source of any "click" associated with starter cutout after initial engagement of the Starter Solenoid when START is pressed. Is the sound possibly that of the Solenoid engaging/ disengaging, or possibly a relay elsewhere than the CAS (NO relays there AFAIK)?

I wonder HOW exactly the wire from the E-box to Starter Solenoid was tested for continuity, and if one were able to properly do that, whether voltage can be applied to that wire to engage the starter to rule out problem with Starter Solenoid, Motor or associated wiring. The fact that you appear to be focusing on a CAS issue suggests that you are WAAY ahead of me on this, but I'm just trying to make sure no one has "assumed" something incorrectly.

I'm NOT familiar with HOW the START button actually works to automatically continue to crank the starter until the engine fires (at least on non-diesel models) but you might try BOTH the standard method of pressing & releasing the Start button, and ALSO HOLDING the button in to see if that prolongs cranking.

George

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I've never done a CAS autopsy, but I'm NOT aware of anything in the CAS that should "click", so I would first want to identify the source of any "click" associated with starter cutout after initial engagement of the Starter Solenoid when START is pressed. Is the sound possibly that of the Solenoid engaging/ disengaging, or possibly a relay elsewhere than the CAS (NO relays there AFAIK)?

I wonder HOW exactly the wire from the E-box to Starter Solenoid was tested for continuity, and if one were able to properly do that, whether voltage can be applied to that wire to engage the starter to rule out problem with Starter Solenoid, Motor or associated wiring. The fact that you appear to be focusing on a CAS issue suggests that you are WAAY ahead of me on this, but I'm just trying to make sure no one has "assumed" something incorrectly.

I'm NOT familiar with HOW the START button actually works to automatically continue to crank the starter until the engine fires (at least on non-diesel models) but you might try BOTH the standard method of pressing & releasing the Start button, and ALSO HOLDING the button in to see if that prolongs cranking.

George

To be honest I didn't hear it click myself. I'm going off of what my friend tells me. But you're right - the CAS shouldn't click. I asked him to take X13376 off and apply 12 Volt to Pin 22. That should engage the starter.

[Mik325tds]

I was wondering - would it be possible to transfer the DDE, CAS from one car to another and start with that cars keys? Would KOMBI and FRM be needed, too in order not to mess up the Odometer?

[Mik325tds]

What other precautions should be taken other than using an ICOM, ISTA P and taking the key out when flashing a CAS? I'm a bit confused about taking the key out - wouldn't that stop KL15 and inhibit any flashing as the modules all go to sleep?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

To be honest I didn't hear it click myself. I'm going off of what my friend tells me. But you're right - the CAS shouldn't click. I asked him to take X13376 off and apply 12 Volt to Pin 22. That should engage the starter.

Update: This CAS does have a relay and it does click. But in the attached picture we can see a burnt trace to what I think could be the flyback diode of the relay coil.
Long shot: Is anyone willing to share that section of the schematic of the CAS3 so we can investigate if it is repairable?

Or can anyone point me to some reading on how to mate a used CAS to this car (E90 335d)?

[Mik325tds]

Does anyone now if I can get a dump from this CAS with Xprog and flash it to a used one? Wouldn't that transfer the ISN as well? What is the EEprom configuration on the MC9S12XDP512CAL and are there any lock bits to be worried about?

[Mik325tds]

The simple solution to this problem is to just replace the diode and fix the blown trace. CAS is fully functional afterwards. The original seems to be a Vishay EGF1D (device code ED 43). I replaced it with a little stronger Vishay S1J that has a peak forward surge current of 40A instead of 30A.

[kolhozbrothers]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Does anyone now if I can get a dump from this CAS with Xprog and flash it to a used one? Wouldn't that transfer the ISN as well? What is the EEprom configuration on the MC9S12XDP512CAL and are there any lock bits to be worried about?

Yes. You need to write eeprom and it will work. Just make sure you get the right CAS for a 4 door.

[9mmkungfu]

I am having this same issue as well. Mine was due to the CAS cable being connected to the incorrect terminal on the starter (13mm), which fried the diode pictured. I'll post an update here once this is resolved. Big thanks to Mik325tds for help with this and creating this thread.

[Chaulklet]

Thanks for the photos supplied here. It appears the same issue has happened to me. Either a poor engine ground, or attempting to charge the vehicle at the posts up front caused this malfunction. I cannot attach a photo so here is a imgur link showing the same exact failure.

View post on imgur.com

Besides replacing the diode, how did you verify the trace was good?

Also do you have a link to the diode you purchased? It seems there are so many variations and I dont know which one is right.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Chaulklet

Thanks for the photos supplied here. It appears the same issue has happened to me. Either a poor engine ground, or attempting to charge the vehicle at the posts up front caused this malfunction. I cannot attach a photo so here is a imgur link showing the same exact failure.

View post on imgur.com

Besides replacing the diode, how did you verify the trace was good?

Also do you have a link to the diode you purchased? It seems there are so many variations and I dont know which one is right.

Any Vishay EGF1D (device code ED 43) or Vishay S1J would do. Try digikey.
Your trace looks like burnt well. You have to find a part of the trace that still has some copper to attach solder to. You can use an ohmmeter or diode checker to see if you solder connections worked.