[BM3Rrrr]

Planning for the future I've started to think about when my turbos go what to replace them with. I definitely want to stick with twins over a single and by doing this have looked at each of the major players in aftermarket twins.

With the bad rap some vendors get on here with regards to reliability its making me think, should I just stick with new OEM twins when its time to replace?

My power goals aren't anything crazy, 300rwkw would do just fine.
I believe this would be achievable with OEM's, plus the right bolt-ons which I mostly have already. The plan is to run MHD E30 once I do some necessary maintenance.

Just looking for some input from people who have or previously had aftermarket twins.

[Brule]

Keep oem. 250kw is enough on the street.

Im biased and would get a basic rb setup if going aftermarket.

If you want 3- 4-500kw get a Barra. These are bloody expensive chasing 300kw+.

[jzx_andy]

Stock twins, downpipes, fmic, inlets and a custom e50 tune will get you past 300rwkw


Those new dynamic autowerx twins look like great value. ~$2.5k landed, made in the US and good for 5-600 USA whp. You'll need upgraded inlets/outlets and a hpfp upgrade if you want to run some ethanol - budget another ~$1.5k for the new spool performance helix 3x hpfp overdrive kit. Both of these products are yet to stand the test of time, but they look like seriously promising bang for buck upgrades, especially considering you don't have to fiddle around with an ST setup on a RHD car or deal with PI in general (even though ST is plain awesome and PI has some benefits).

[kookie]

Originally Posted by Brule

Keep oem. 250kw is enough on the street.

Im biased and would get a basic rb setup if going aftermarket.

If you want 3- 4-500kw get a Barra. These are bloody expensive chasing 300kw+.

This.

you can get close to 300 with some corn juice. I struggle to get traction wtih around 250 atw

[Socket]

Check out the recent results of the dyno day further down the Aussie forum. Will give you a idea of what KW people were doing with different set ups

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by Socket

Check out the recent results of the dyno day further down the Aussie forum. Will give you a idea of what KW people were doing with different set ups

Yeah I was having a look there and saw BM335M make 280kw on stock twins with MHD E30 which is impressive.

I was reading another thread with regards to inlets on stock turbos, Socks you posted that you experienced warbling after installing them and had a lot of headaches sorting the issue out.

[E85 335]

I had RB turbos and they smoked after 1200km so got them repaired and sold them. Then went pure stage 2 and they smoked and sent back and vendor said I had oil contamination which is a load of shit as they went on a brand new built motor. I would suggest speaking with Dan form Simply Tuning as he has some great twin setups that he has tweaked and stopped the turbos from smoking. He's your man.

[Hoper]

I've got a set of the Dynamics Autoworks on mine, can't speak for longevity yet, I've put about 1500ks on them to date with no issues

I'm running e40 and the HPFP is pretty close to its limit, have changed a couple to find a good one, so yes the helix is probably the next step if I want to keep running an E mix

T1M tells me that the DAWs flow pretty good, they're not working too hard and although I missed the dyno day due to my stuff up, Tim's estimate for power is high 200's on 98 and low 300's on the e40

Agree with the above comments, with the e40 tune it's undriveable on the street in 1st or 2nd, it just won't grip with anything past 1/2 throttle, when I fix my mess I'll probably see if Tim can bring the torque on a bit slower to make it quicker, spinning tyres is fun but slow

My understanding is that you could make the same power as I am on stock turbos, but you would be working them harder, not sure if that would impact longevity, also not sure if stocks would maintain flow to the top of the rev range if you get up to 300kw at the wheels, maybe someone else knows for sure (disclaimer I'm no expert, just a punter)

Good luck whatever direction you decide, people on here are good guys and happy to provide you with their experiences which is always a good thing

[jzx_andy]

Originally Posted by Hoper

I've got a set of the Dynamics Autoworks on mine, can't speak for longevity yet, I've put about 1500ks on them to date with no issues

I'm running e40 and the HPFP is pretty close to its limit, have changed a couple to find a good one, so yes the helix is probably the next step if I want to keep running an E mix

T1M tells me that the DAWs flow pretty good, they're not working too hard and although I missed the dyno day due to my stuff up, Tim's estimate for power is high 200's on 98 and low 300's on the e40

Agree with the above comments, with the e40 tune it's undriveable on the street in 1st or 2nd, it just won't grip with anything past 1/2 throttle, when I fix my mess I'll probably see if Tim can bring the torque on a bit slower to make it quicker, spinning tyres is fun but slow

My understanding is that you could make the same power as I am on stock turbos, but you would be working them harder, not sure if that would impact longevity, also not sure if stocks would maintain flow to the top of the rev range if you get up to 300kw at the wheels, maybe someone else knows for sure (disclaimer I'm no expert, just a punter)

Good luck whatever direction you decide, people on here are good guys and happy to provide you with their experiences which is always a good thing

Yeah, the stockers definitely die off after 6k, even with upgraded inlets. Having more top end is definitely a reason for going aftermarket twins!

[BM3Rrrr]

Thanks gents for the tips, like I said my turbos are healthy for now but this information is very useful.

Hoper,

I was reading through a post about RHD RB outlets a few years back where Rob was gauging interest to start making these. I noticed yourself and quite a few other Aus members signed up for this. Did these outlets work out well?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

Yeah I was having a look there and saw BM335M make 280kw on stock twins with MHD E30 which is impressive.

I was reading another thread with regards to inlets on stock turbos, Socks you posted that you experienced warbling after installing them and had a lot of headaches sorting the issue out.

Yep was something to do with the silicon inlets flexing with changes in pressure.
Had to switch to a fully adjustable GFB BOV to allow me to set the BOV so it would be closed at idle and stop the warbling problem

[DR-JEKL]

yeah oem are best for reliability but they have their downsides also.

With aftermarket turbos you compromise on reliability, but my setup has oem like reponse and on a low boost 98 map mid range is 19 psi tapering down to 18 psi at redline. Based on virtual dyno its making ~ 330rwkw and is a lot nicer to drive compared to oem twins on 98.

At the end of the day it depends on your budget and be realistic with your budget, to be frank most guys are best to just do fresh oem turbos and spread their cash out on a complete package (LSD, coilovers, maintenance, tyres, rims) rather than make 400rwkw on oem suspension, driveline and crap tyres. But if you have the $ to splurge go for it

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by Socket

Yep was something to do with the silicon inlets flexing with changes in pressure.
Had to switch to a fully adjustable GFB BOV to allow me to set the BOV so it would be closed at idle and stop the warbling problem

I have the turbosmart dual plumback BOV's which are adjustable, so if I do end up getting inlets I shouldn't have to worry about it I guess

[King Rudi]

-1 for this thread having nothing to do with breast augmentation.

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

yeah oem are best for reliability but they have their downsides also.

With aftermarket turbos you compromise on reliability, but my setup has oem like reponse and on a low boost 98 map mid range is 19 psi tapering down to 18 psi at redline. Based on virtual dyno its making ~ 330rwkw and is a lot nicer to drive compared to oem twins on 98.

At the end of the day it depends on your budget and be realistic with your budget, to be frank most guys are best to just do fresh oem turbos and spread their cash out on a complete package (LSD, coilovers, maintenance, tyres, rims) rather than make 400rwkw on oem suspension, driveline and crap tyres. But if you have the $ to splurge go for it

I'm definitely more about reliability then big power as this is my DD. 300rwkw seems like a nice number as it would still be manageable to drive on the street. I guess there is a line between pushing OEM's to make this power or going with a basic RB setup or similar.

[rev210]

Power goals, ok you could get some st2 turbos and keep the boost down. Till the time you want more power and an empty wallet ,which will eventually happen 😄
Ive got pure stage2s and one of my tunes makes more than 400rwkw on the dyno. I wouldnt want less on the street or otherwise. TIMYOYO mode + fear of impending death for the win. 😆

[BM3Rrrr]

Been looking at TD03 RB 1's or RB billets as an option. Seems billets are just slightly upgraded OEM's, 1's being slightly more upgraded.

Inlets install looks like a PITA!

Wondering if adding inlets requires a custom MHD tune? Or can you run OTS maps?

Pure's look nice but they are pricey compared to RB's

[Coupes33]

I ran a set of RB Classic turbos for 30,000kms with no issues or smoke. There was plenty of wear in the shafts when I replaced them and they required a rebuild but on BP Ultimate 98 , they produced 289kw and ran 12.1s. I only ran OEM outlets and got down to 11.2s so I wouldn't recommend wasting money on outlets unless you are going large turbos and want to produce 400+kw. Rob Beck has stated on a number of forums that larger outlets give no advantage over OEM outlets up to 600hp. OEM turbos with some percentage of E85 will give you 300kw but you would be better having a set of slightly larger turbos running 98 as Dr Jekyl has installed. At low boost levels of around 20psi, these will last a long period if installed correctly and running on 98 avoids the fueling issues associated with E85 i.e. larger LPFP, mixing fuels, stress on HPFP.

[jzx_andy]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

Been looking at TD03 RB 1's or RB billets as an option. Seems billets are just slightly upgraded OEM's, 1's being slightly more upgraded.

Inlets install looks like a PITA!

Wondering if adding inlets requires a custom MHD tune? Or can you run OTS maps?

Pure's look nice but they are pricey compared to RB's

Running stock location 1.75" inlets here on mhd v8 stg 2+ flex fuel map with no issues. You would definitely benefit more by pairing everything with a custom tune, especially after all that effort put into fitting the inlets lol.

If you're in Perth, we could suss out booking some dyno time and getting one of the tuners from over East to sort out a car or two

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

I ran a set of RB Classic turbos for 30,000kms with no issues or smoke. There was plenty of wear in the shafts when I replaced them and they required a rebuild but on BP Ultimate 98 , they produced 289kw and ran 12.1s. I only ran OEM outlets and got down to 11.2s so I wouldn't recommend wasting money on outlets unless you are going large turbos and want to produce 400+kw. Rob Beck has stated on a number of forums that larger outlets give no advantage over OEM outlets up to 600hp. OEM turbos with some percentage of E85 will give you 300kw but you would be better having a set of slightly larger turbos running 98 as Dr Jekyl has installed. At low boost levels of around 20psi, these will last a long period if installed correctly and running on 98 avoids the fueling issues associated with E85 i.e. larger LPFP, mixing fuels, stress on HPFP.

All valid points Coupes,
Was leaning towards the billets as they had improvements made to them over OEM but still spooled like OEM. I would be buying a LPFP if I went this route and run some E85, there is a United 5 mins from my place that sells it so its wouldn't be inconvenient. I guess with a low enough concentration (E30) the HPFP wouldn't be that stressed. I've read that a lot that guys run E30 without upgraded LPFP and seem to be ok, though obviously over time things will wear out eventually.

[BM3Rrrr]

Originally Posted by jzx_andy

Running stock location 1.75" inlets here on mhd v8 stg 2+ flex fuel map with no issues. You would definitely benefit more by pairing everything with a custom tune, especially after all that effort put into fitting the inlets lol.

If you're in Perth, we could suss out booking some dyno time and getting one of the tuners from over East to sort out a car or two

Yep I'm in Perth and would be keen to get some dyno time in the future, hit me with a PM

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

All valid points Coupes,
Was leaning towards the billets as they had improvements made to them over OEM but still spooled like OEM. I would be buying a LPFP if I went this route and run some E85, there is a United 5 mins from my place that sells it so its wouldn't be inconvenient. I guess with a low enough concentration (E30) the HPFP wouldn't be that stressed. I've read that a lot that guys run E30 without upgraded LPFP and seem to be ok, though obviously over time things will wear out eventually.

I had to get a Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP when I went to E50.