[Chrisbkk]

Hi guys,

I had shell bearing issues on a 2007 335i (N54). the engine was stripped down and luckily all it needed was new bearings. The engine was rebuilt by a race engine builder than doesnt usually build BMW engines. He builds 2JZGTE and RB26DETT engines usually (Drag/Circuit/Drift track cars).

The engine was rebuilt and has gone back in the car but the car wont start? The mechanic is confused and noone knows what to do?

The car started before the engine was taken out. Since its gone back in it just turns over and doesnt fire?

Is it possible that the engine builder could have done something incorrectly on the build? I cant see how but thought i would ask?

The last time I was at the garage we checked for fuel going to the fuel rail which it was. But there was no spark? The mechanic plugged in a diagnostic computer but it didnt seem to throw up and faults?

I know this is vague, but has anyone got any ideas what we should check or test?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

[tisdrew]

No spark = sensor/wiring

[Chrisbkk]

what sensors should i check? where are they located? and do you know how i can check them?

Im in Thailand and there are less than 50 n54 vehicles here so spares are a nightmare. scrap yards dont have any n54 spares and new parts need to be ordered from UK or USA.

[9krpmrx8]

I mean you have to check every sensor for voltage and continuity. I would start with the crank sensor but this can get very complicated. The crank sensor is on the same circuit as the rail pressure sensor and TMAP on my N55, so a bad ground on any of them can cause a no spark issue. Double check the wiring on an N54 though. But really everything needs a good going thru.

[Rob09msport]

Check dme connections and what mods are done to car ?

[Chrisbkk]

no mods done to the car. completely stock.

I was guessing maybe we damanged a sensor or plug or pulled a wire from a plug when putting the engine back in. But how can we check this?

We have a diagnostic box but its not throwing any error messages up? if a sensor wasnt connected (due to damage/lose wire or damaged plug) wouldnt it tell us it cant read or connect to a sensor?

any thoughts?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Chrisbkk

Hi guys,

The last time I was at the garage we checked for fuel going to the fuel rail which it was. But there was no spark? The mechanic plugged in a diagnostic computer but it didnt seem to throw up and faults?

Chris

"But there was no spark?" Are you asking the question if it was possible you don't have a spark or did you ascertain that there was no spark? If so, how did you make that determination.

To answer your earlier question, a fault in any relevant sensor would throw a code. What "diagnostic computer" are you using to read the codes?

[Chrisbkk]

we too one of the coil packs off and plugged a spark plug into it and tried starting the engine with the plug near the strut mount bolts. there was no spark.

not sure what diag box it was. just one that plugs into the ODB plug on the drivers footwell.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Chrisbkk

we too one of the coil packs off and plugged a spark plug into it and tried starting the engine with the plug near the strut mount bolts. there was no spark.

not sure what diag box it was. just one that plugs into the ODB plug on the drivers footwell.

Check the grounds near the coils - there are three wires with round terminal coming off the wire harness that are bolted onto three studs arranged along the centerline of the valve cover - they also serve as valve cover bolts

[nissubaru]

I chased around a no start issue for a while after my engine swap, battery was fine but what wasn't fine was the negative battery cable/ground strap. The underside of it was green and corroded to the point I was only getting 5V to the starter which is way too low for starting the car. I took a brush to the corrosion on the terminal and it fired right up

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

I chased around a no start issue for a while after my engine swap, battery was fine but what wasn't fine was the negative battery cable/ground strap. The underside of it was green and corroded to the point I was only getting 5V to the starter which is way too low for starting the car. I took a brush to the corrosion on the terminal and it fired right up

That doesn't appear to be the issue here.

The engine cranks but doesn't start

[Chrisbkk]

Hi again,

Checked all the grounds and still no spark.

Is it possible that the engine builder did something wrong? are there any internal sensors or pickups that could have possibly be installed incorrectly to cause this issue?

The engine builder is saying he did it right and passed the problem to the mechanic who is installing the engine. The guy installing the engine says everything is correct and is blaming the engine builder. We have been at this stalemate for just over a month now. Im bored of the whole thing but dont have any way to get it resolved?

Again, let me know what you think.

Many thanks again...

[turbohugh]

Connect INPA and live data . I think grounds or DME issue . You said 07? Maybe mosfets?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by turbohugh

Connect INPA and live data . I think grounds or DME issue . You said 07? Maybe mosfets?

He doesn't have any codes, or he says he doesn't have any codes. So it cannot be MOSFETs.

However, the suggestion to install some diagnostic software on your laptop and read the DME for yourself is a very good idea. Particularly since you cannot identify what "diagnostic box" was used by your installer. BTW, seems very unlikely for this problem to be the fault of the builder.

Bimmergeeks.net. Download BMW standard tools for free, also download ISTA-D (aka Rheingold). Buy their cable for $40. Iinstall BST first, make sure it works and can connect to the car. Then install ISTA-D. There are plenty of threads on how to use these tools.

Read the codes and report back.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by dpaul

He doesn't have any codes, or he says he doesn't have any codes. So it cannot be MOSFETs.

However, the suggestion to install some diagnostic software on your laptop and read the DME for yourself is a very good idea. Particularly since you cannot identify what "diagnostic box" was used by your installer. BTW, seems very unlikely for this problem to be the fault of the builder.

Bimmergeeks.com. Download BMW standard tools for free, also download ISTA-D (aka Rheingold). Buy their cable for $40. Iinstall BST first, make sure it works and can connect to the car. Then install ISTA-D. There are plenty of threads on how to use these tools.

Read the codes and report back.

Scan the car with ISTA.. it will tell you more.

[Nismo G]

Originally Posted by Chrisbkk

Hi again,

Checked all the grounds and still no spark.

Is it possible that the engine builder did something wrong? are there any internal sensors or pickups that could have possibly be installed incorrectly to cause this issue?

The engine builder is saying he did it right and passed the problem to the mechanic who is installing the engine. The guy installing the engine says everything is correct and is blaming the engine builder. We have been at this stalemate for just over a month now. Im bored of the whole thing but dont have any way to get it resolved?

Again, let me know what you think.

Many thanks again...

If the engine is turning, then the builder is more than likely not at fault. If something was wrong with the build, the engine would start and then a bearing would slip or whatever the failure may be. So I'll ask the obvious, is the engine actually turning?

It sounds like something on the wire harness isn't plugged in correctly and or a connector/s has been damaged/broken.

I'd almost start over by unplugging the whole harness and plugging everything in again.

Good luck

[Jaronbwall]

I can't answer the wiring question but why did you go through all this work and leave the car completely stock??
There's a lot of aftermarket parts and inexpensive mods that could have been done to improve reliability and power. Hopefully you figure out the issue. I'm sure it's something stupid. Good luck man.

[Nismo G]

Happened to run across this post and remembered your thread from earlier. Hopefully it helps...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1639623

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by Nismo G

Happened to run across this post and remembered your thread from earlier. Hopefully it helps...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1639623

I wonder what happened that that guy/thread. I pointed out where that one wire was supposed to plug in but it didn't seem to solve his issue & then he hasn't posted since. Tbh, I gave up on an issue like that and had a BMW shop do a few hours of diagnosis. For $400 they cleaned up some wiring the previous owner fucked with (I have no idea why) and diagnosed my no boost issue (the wires to the boost solenoids were spliced).

I'm all for DIYing as much as you can on these cars but there comes a point when you need to step back and let an expert diagnosis it for you. In this case it seems the guy has an engine builder & a mechanic on the case, but nobody is an "expert" on the N54 platform.

[Chrisbkk]

Hi guys,

Ive already downloaded the BMW standard tool and downloaded ISTA-D (aka Rheingold). I already have their Pro K+DCAN cable as i had planned to use MHD to flash the ECU once id run the engine in and installed the exhaust and FMIC etc.

problem is I dont have a PC laptop. I only have a MAC book? does anyone know how i can run these apps on a MAC?

THanks,

[Chrisbkk]

Originally Posted by Jaronbwall

I can't answer the wiring question but why did you go through all this work and leave the car completely stock??
There's a lot of aftermarket parts and inexpensive mods that could have been done to improve reliability and power. Hopefully you figure out the issue. I'm sure it's something stupid. Good luck man.

I will be modding the car after the run in. but I just want to get it running first.

I had planned to get a turbo back full exhaust system made and custom FMIC with hard pipes. THe car already had a K&N panel filter on it.

What other mods would you recommend? I was guessing the K&N panel filter might be better than any of the others as its uses the stock airbox which looks like it will be cooler than having two cone filters sitting on top of the engine?

[CarAbuser]

You could create a virtual machine and install windows on it then install Rheingold on that. It may be quicker to just download the premade BMW software virtual machine from the coding forum here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1220039

It would also be a good time to just buy MHD and use that to read codes from the DME. It won't read other modules but it'll be quick and you already said you plan to buy it in future.