[GeorgeR]

How can I get the highest quality, Highest resolution audio, from a source perspective, in my 2009 335i - E92 without changing too much on my S677 (HiFi system Professional DSP)?

Currently I use an old iPhone 3 and a BMW APPLE IPHONE CONNECT VERSION SNAP IN ADAPTER. The old iPhone is used exclusively for iTunes music playback. My songs are saved with Apple Lossless Encoder. I use an iPhone 11 Pro Max for my Bluetooth phone connection.

I also have the 30-pin version of the iPhone Y cable. There is the DVD/CD player but who wants to deal with CD’s. There is also the USB and Hard Drive options that I have never tried.

I read on what I think was the Musicar Facebook page that someone was using an Oppo Dac. I have a Oppo HA-2SE (Portable Headphone Amplifier and DAC, High-resolution USB DAC for Apple/Android/PC/Mac, ESS Sabre32 Reference ES9028-Q2M DAC chip), I could use if it is possible and would provide better results.

I am looking at a couple Musicar Northwest options including at least the full bass option.


S6FL USB/audio interface
S6NF Connection, MP3 player in mobile phone
S8SP Control unit COP
S570 Reinforced power supply
S609 Navigation system, Professional
S615 Extended BMW Online Information
S620 Voice control
S639 Preparation for mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN
S645 BMW US Radio
S653 High Definition Radio
S677 HiFi system Professional DSP
S693 Preparation BMW satellite radio

[ctuna]

High bit rate mp3 or wav files played from the usb.
The aux Input is a Hi Fi bottleneck and noted to be crap.
Ycable uses the aux for the music so it's no better than the aux.
(only uses the usb for track and title info)

The Dac's can improve the Aux but it's still not as good as USB
you are doing a double digital conversion.

There is a long thread on this.
see end of thread for link

If you are getting one of the newer DSP/amps some of those have
direct aux / bluetooth or wi fi Inputs to bypass the BMW Head unit
entirely.

MusicarNW no's about this stuff you might consult them.

Also this is a cheap out if you don't have usb I have this and musicarnw
system it works pretty well sounds the same as anything I put on a cd.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post23244354

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1002984

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by ctuna

High bit rate mp3 or wav files played from the usb.
The aux Input is a Hi Fi bottleneck and noted to be crap.
Ycable uses the aux for the music so it's no better than the aux.
(only uses the usb for track and title info)

The Dac's can improve the Aux but it's still not as good as USB
you are doing a double digital conversion.

There is a long thread on this.
see end of thread for link

Also this is a cheap out if you don't have usb I have this and musicarnw
system it works pretty well sounds the same as anything I put on a cd.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post23244354

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1002984

Does the snap in adapter (84-21-2-158-683) use the AUX input or is it digital to the head unit?

What is the cleanest, easiest way to convert my Apple Lossless encoded files to MP3 files on a USB? I don't want duplicate MP3 versions in iTunes and I would prefer to keep the Apple Lossless in iTunes.

Thank you.

Edit: I found a conversion program and am converting now but still open to recommended programs and MP3 output settings. Thanks.

[ctuna]

I have no idea what the snap in adapter does.
But as far as as I know the only way to get direct digital into
BMW head units is by usb stick or copying to the hard drive in
the idrive if it has one of the newer idrives that have the hardrive.

[ptpending]

you can also try to retrofit combox since you have CIC and then you can play music from iphone over digital (usb) connection, without connect to AUX

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by ptpending

you can also try to retrofit combox since you have CIC and then you can play music from iPhone over digital (usb) connection, without connect to AUX

Thanks. Looking in to combox but want to confirm if my existing options offer comparable or even better quality. Seems like an expensive option just to connect an iPhone for a higher quality audio connection.

I'll keep searching but haven't found out how my snap in adapter connects my iPhone 3. Is it a digital connection or is it breaking out an analog signal similar to what the Y-Cable does?

Curious to test my Oppo HA-2SE's DAC and analog line out as well.

I will ask Musicar NW but they aren't the timeliest group to get ahold of.

Thanks again.

[ctuna]

Bluetooth is not Hi Fi by definition its not terrible either

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Bluetooth is not Hi Fi by definition its not terrible either

I'm not concerned about connecting audio via Bluetooth. A wired connection is preferred. Thanks.

[GeorgeR]

I want to test converting iTunes Apple Lossless to WAV for playback via USB. I assume I’ll just stay with MP3, 44100Hz, 320kbps but want to test how WAV conversion works. I doubt I will hear a difference, just curious.

There are a number of WAV setting options, which one do I use?

I assume the standard WAV option is 16 bit and I should select stereo, 44100HZ. But there are also options for 48000Hz, 32000Hz and custom.

There are also options for WAV 24bit, 32bit and 8bit, the higher bit rates adding a 96000Hz option. The converter also supports WAV/A-law, WAV/mu-law and most other types of output formats including FLAC, AAC, etc.

Thanks.

[ctuna]

Likely only standard Wave and Mp3's at any bit rate will be supported.
I did the test of putting the same Wave and 320 mp2's on a disk
and playing it through the phone. Definitely not as good from the phone
over aux with a mini stereo jack line.

I can't really tell the difference between high bit rate MP3's and Wave files.

What really made my system outstanding was the MusicarNW system.

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Likely only standard Wave and Mp3's at any bit rate will be supported.
I did the test of putting the same Wave and 320 mp2's on a disk
and playing it through the phone. Definitely not as good from the phone
over aux with a mini stereo jack line.

I can't really tell the difference between high bit rage MP3's and Wave files.

What really made my system outstanding was the MusicarNW system.

Thanks but what is standard WAV? Is is 16 bit stereo, 44100HZ?

I have a full base upgrade install scheduled for Nov 14th. I am driving down to Portland and letting Musicar NW do the install.

Thanks again.

[ctuna]

I believe you are correct.
For ultra hi res go vist Neil Youngs Site and read up on his Pono Device.
Of course it means replacing your entire music collection.

Are you getting or do you have a full range upgrade from MusicarNW?

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by ctuna

I believe you are correct.
For ultra hi res go vist Neil Youngs Site and read up on his Pono Device.
Of course it means replacing your entire music collection.

Are you getting or do you have a full range upgrade from MusicarNW?

I will look into Neil Young’s Pono Device. I am just doing the full base upgrade for now. It adds the corner loaded, OEM style 12” sub-woofer, adds a couple amp channels for the under seat woofers in a 4-way where they just handle mid-bass. I considered a full upgrade but was told the existing S677 speakers are comparable to what Bavsound offers and if I want to do the full Monty later, I lose nothing; I just add and spend more and higher quality mids and tweeters.

I also what to keep as much stock as possible. After all it is a 2009, but I have less than 55,000 miles on it.

I have a number of high res music files, plus a collection of SACD and DVD Audio discs I sometimes play on my home systems and on headphones. I have an Oppo UDP-203, a couple 103’s, an HA -1, an HA - 2SE and a PM2 headset. Unfortunately they dropped out of the Player, Headphone and DAC business but they still work great.

I still need to test my HA-2SE via the AUX input. For me it is as much the hobby
as the music.

Thanks.

Edit: This isn't promising.

http://www.noise11.com/news/r-i-p-po...layer-20170423

[ctuna]

I looked up the Pono its dead.

[GeorgeR]

I plan on waiting until I get my Musicar NW Full Bass System installed next week for full testing but did a quick comparison of USB playback and AUX Playback. I'm hopping Musicar NW can optimize my system for each input.

While I thought all my iTunes songs were saved as Apple Lossless, I found most of them were AAC so I replaced all the AAC saved songs with Apple Lossless. I converted the iTunes AAC saved songs to MP3, 44100Hz, 320kbps on the USB. I plan on deleting those and replacing them with Apple Lossless converted to MP3, 44100Hz, 320kbps on the USB and possibly do a WAV test but I think I lose some tagging.

The AUX was connected to the Line Out of my Oppo HA-2SE Portable Headphone Amplifier DAC and my iPhone was connected to the DAC's USB input with an Apple Lightning to USB cable.

My iPhone 11 Pro Max was playing songs saved as Apple Lossless.

It was not close, the AUX input was much better. The sound was crystal clear with no background noise, hiss or distortion of any kind and the USB didn't sound nearly as clear.

I still want to compare the CD player, the snap in adapter with the iPhone 3 if it has enough room for Apple Lossless files and possibly the HD but I was very impressed with the quality of the AUX off my DAC, especially after all the posts claiming it was the worst possible option. One negative is I lose all CIC control but if all I need to do is play an album or Play list in shuffle, I love the sound.

[GeorgeR]

I had the Musicar Northwest Full Bass upgrade installed yesterday and 5 and a half hours of windshield time allowed me to test the source connection options. The main realization is that with road noise, they all sound pretty much the same.

When parked, the AUX to Oppo DAC with my iPhone 11 playing Apple Lossless files is the best but I lose CIC control.

The iPhone 3 in the Snap in Adapter and iPhone 11 Pro Max with the Y-Connector and lightning Adapter sound the same. Advantage to the Y-Adapter is my 11 Pro has enough memory to hold my entire lossless Library, disadvantage is the hassle with connecting cables though it will charge my phone. Disadvantage to the iPhone 3 is 32GB memory, not even enough to hold my standard playlist and none of my albums but still enough to hold a decent sized while cut down playlist.

The USB keeps having strange issues. Latest is a brief hiss when tracks change. I’ll play a bit with it but not happy with that option as of now even though the WAV file playback seems comparable to the iPhone’s. The only connection that really stands out is when using the portable Oppo DAC.

Now that I am enjoying the trunk mounted sub and externally powered under seat woofers in a 4-way, I am looking in to some cabin speaker upgrade options.

Regards

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by GeorgeR

I had the Musicar Northwest Full Bass upgrade installed yesterday and 5 and a half hours of windshield time allowed me to test the source connection options. The main realization is that with road noise, they all sound pretty much the same.

When parked, the AUX to Oppo DAC with my iPhone 11 playing Apple Lossless files is the best but I lose CIC control.

The iPhone 3 in the Snap in Adapter and iPhone 11 Pro Max with the Y-Connector and lightning Adapter sound the same. Advantage to the Y-Adapter is my 11 Pro has enough memory to hold my entire lossless Library, disadvantage is the hassle with connecting cables though it will charge my phone. Disadvantage to the iPhone 3 is 32GB memory, not even enough to hold my standard playlist and none of my albums but still enough to hold a decent sized while cut down playlist.

The USB keeps having strange issues. Latest is a brief hiss when tracks change. I’ll play a bit with it but not happy with that option as of now even though the WAV file playback seems comparable to the iPhone’s. The only connection that really stands out is when using the portable Oppo DAC.

Now that I am enjoying the trunk mounted sub and externally powered under seat woofers in a 4-way, I am looking in to some cabin speaker upgrade options.

Regards

How much did you pay for the 12" sub & box?

I'd just get a BMW IA speakers with the tweeters for the rear doors

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

How much did you pay for the 12" sub & box?

I'd just get a BMW IA speakers with the tweeters for the rear doors

Musicar lists pricing on their website for a number of options, including the sub enclosure I believe.

I have no idea what your second sentence is about or how it is relates.

Regards

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by GeorgeR

Musicar lists pricing on their website for a number of options, including the sub enclosure I believe.

I have no idea what your second sentence is about or how it is relates.

Regards

You said, "I am looking in to some cabin speaker upgrade options"

I said, you should just get a set of BMW IA speakers for the cabin.

IA means Individual Audio. They are their highest level of speakers BMW puts into their cars and they are a direct fit.

I have them paired with a JL Audio 600/ 6 v2 75w per channel amp, and they sound amazing.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233409684555

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You said, "I am looking in to some cabin speaker upgrade options"

I said, you should just get a set of BMW IA speakers for the cabin.

IA means Individual Audio. They are their highest level of speakers BMW puts into their cars and they are a direct fit.

I have them paired with a JL Audio 600/ 6 v2 75w per channel amp, and they sound amazing.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233409684555

I'm sure adding the JL amp helps a lot, it would help the speakers in my S677A (HiFi System Professional DSP) system as well. The speakers in the HiFi System are pretty good but if I am going to do it I am going with better under seats and FR/FL aftermarket speakers Musicar carries and will install along with some sound installation. I would like the road noise controlled a bit better.

Even though there are plenty of things I am willing to DIY, I don't want to be pulling apart door panels.

I have built at least 13 home speakers and a home theater room but plan on leaving the car install to others.

Thanks.

Thanks.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by GeorgeR

I'm sure adding the JL amp helps a lot, it would help the speakers in my S677A (HiFi System Professional DSP) system as well. The speakers in the HiFi System are pretty good but if I am going to do it I am going with better under seats and FR/FL aftermarket speakers Musicar carries and will install along with some sound installation. I would like the road noise controlled a bit better.

Even though there are plenty of things I am willing to DIY, I don't want to be pulling apart door panels.

I have built at least 13 home speakers and a home theater room but plan on leaving the car install to others.

Thanks.

Thanks.

I'd consider pulling a door panel off and installing speakers to be like 1/10. 10 being high, but that's just me. I wouldn't use the subs that the BMW IA set sometimes come with. That's why I gave you a link for a set that doesn't have those included.

You should consider buying the set I sent you a link and have it installed. You can't go wrong with the BMW IA speakers. Call the guys MUSIC NW and ask them their opinion on the BMW IA speakers. If they are being honest, they can't give them a bad or average review. No way.

Door insulation is a good idea. I did that for my car. Super easy.

If you haven't, I'd get a better DSP. Alpine makes a really nice one. However, you can kill two birds with one stone if you get the one that JL Audio makes because it cones with 100w per channel. Almost every DSP is around 25w per channel.

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'd consider pulling a door panel off and installing speakers to be like 1/10. 10 being high, but that's just me. I wouldn't use the subs that the BMW IA set sometimes come with. That's why I gave you a link for a set that doesn't have those included.

You should consider buying the set I sent you a link and have it installed. You can't go wrong with the BMW IA speakers. Call the guys MUSIC NW and ask them their opinion on the BMW IA speakers. If they are being honest, they can't give them a bad or average review. No way.

Door insulation is a good idea. I did that for my car. Super easy.

If you haven't, I'd get a better DSP. Alpine makes a really nice one. However, you can kill two birds with one stone if you get the one that JL Audio makes because it cones with 100w per channel. Almost every DSP is around 25w per channel.

I have my plan and equipment decision made and ordered. Not sure why you are adamant on pushing your choices. Glad you like them but happy with the direction I have chosen.