[ro881e]

So after seeing a little bubbling on my rear arches, I sanded it back to metal, rust treated the metal and did a prime coat to seal. I was waiting for the titan silver rattle cans to be back in stock and during this time the rust came back 1000x worse!

Going to tackle it again, maybe I left some moisture there before. Any tips before I make a second mess of it?

Thanks!

[cpie168]

Nice low profile tire you got there. Is that a 19”? 😄

[ro881e]

Unfortunately not! Just the stock MV3 18s on Goodyear eagle asymmetric 5s. I think the angle is a bit flattering ;p

[cpie168]

18's are nothing to scoff at.

[JonOhh]

Give it a good scrub with a wire brush, and then apply OSPHO or something similar, basically a rust converter. Rust should turn black, or at least dark brown. Avoid the cheap auto parts store rust converters. A lot of these turn black regardless of if they've done anything with rust or not- and what you really want is for the rust itself to be black.

Make sure you do the same with the metal on the other side as well, or it'll just come back through again. Let it dry for 30h, in a low moisture environment if at all possible. If it doesn't turn black, wait for it to dry, and put another coat on, but much lighter.

Once that's done, put two coats of POR15 Self Etching Primer, and give it PLENTY of time to dry. Finally, follow up with your topcoat. Don't leave the POR or anything else without a top coat of paint- you want to be sure that it's completely sealed in. If you can't get a good top coat on the backside of it, you can look into rust encapsulator from Eastwood- that should seal it up well.


Yes, there are many redundant steps in there, and yes, it's likely unnecessary, but this will essentially ensure you have no issues in the future...it's a shame to see these cars rust. Just a bit of advice. This is the process I'm using for my Bertone x1/9 and 65' Impala SS. Seems to be holding up well so far, although both are very much in the project car state.

[ro881e]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

Give it a good scrub with a wire brush, and then apply OSPHO or something similar, basically a rust converter. Rust should turn black, or at least dark brown. Avoid the cheap auto parts store rust converters. A lot of these turn black regardless of if they've done anything with rust or not- and what you really want is for the rust itself to be black.

Make sure you do the same with the metal on the other side as well, or it'll just come back through again. Let it dry for 30h, in a low moisture environment if at all possible. If it doesn't turn black, wait for it to dry, and put another coat on, but much lighter.

Once that's done, put two coats of POR15 Self Etching Primer, and give it PLENTY of time to dry. Finally, follow up with your topcoat. Don't leave the POR or anything else without a top coat of paint- you want to be sure that it's completely sealed in. If you can't get a good top coat on the backside of it, you can look into rust encapsulator from Eastwood- that should seal it up well.


Yes, there are many redundant steps in there, and yes, it's likely unnecessary, but this will essentially ensure you have no issues in the future...it's a shame to see these cars rust. Just a bit of advice. This is the process I'm using for my Bertone 1/9 and 65' Impala SS. Seems to be holding up well so far, although both are very much in the project car state.

Thanks for the thorough advice, yes I agree I think my problem last time was leaving it primed only, and not treating the back side of the arch. Do it properly do it once I guess! I'll look at some proper rust treatment too as you say. Will wait for a good time opportunity and then give it a go, will update results!