[Boyd122]

Anyone know how to code in a high idle for the 335d? I asked on protool Facebook and few other places and some people knew what I was talking about and wanted to know but most didn't know what high idle was. I own a few diesel trucks and have always used the high idle feature to help them warm up or keep cylinder temps high or to perform a regen. Anyway just curious.

If at all possible is it normal like any other truck/car by setting parking brake, engaging cruise control and setting it at 900-1300 rpm?

Would sound sweet on deleted 335d's like mine

[Yozh]

ISTA has idle adjustment just never looked to what level.

[lnxguy]

You need high idle in Texas? lol

[Owen81]

What other "normal" car or truck lets you high idle using the cruise control? Sounds like some custom programming and unnecessary, especially in Texas.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by Owen81

What other "normal" car or truck lets you high idle using the cruise control? Sounds like some custom programming and unnecessary, especially in Texas.

Good for cool down after towing gor a long time.

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by Yozh

ISTA has idle adjustment just never looked to what level.

I think max 850 rpm which makes the transmission pull harder when stopped in D.

[Boyd122]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

You need high idle in Texas? lol

Originally Posted by Owen81

What other "normal" car or truck lets you high idle using the cruise control? Sounds like some custom programming and unnecessary, especially in Texas.

Well I travel to the panhandle frequently also to Denver for work in my 335d and 2500 dodge. So warming up in the morning is what I need it for or when I'm in a store getting parts for equipment I can let it idle and keep a warmer cylinder temp.Most diesel pickups have high idle from the factory. It's not custom programmed though it will have to be with the 335d and that's what I was asking if anyone new who or how to do it. I'll link some videos for it on pickups. Now some people use sticks for high idle because high idle was made on there trucks back in the early nineties, like the first gen dodge etc.

[Boyd122]

Non deleted dodge- high idle from factory.

2011 ford high idle.

Vw tsi high idle

This just isn't for me, I'm betting others would like to have this feature on the 335d. It would sound nice but also helps with warmup and to cool down the car or keep temps high.

[BB_cuda]

People outside of Texas think we all have same weather. Ha. Y’all think of my weather apparently since I’m 20 miles from Galveston. Pan handle of Texas is drastically different than coastal southeast Texas.
To OP, sorry that I’m of no help on the high idle question.

[Boyd122]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

People outside of Texas think we all have same weather. Ha. Y'all think of my weather apparently since I'm 20 miles from Galveston. Pan handle of Texas is drastically different than coastal southeast Texas.
To OP, sorry that I'm of no help on the high idle question.

Exactly, love Galveston too. It's okay eventually I'll have time to find a way or someone will know. I asked dudmd and they said they couldn't. May have to ask Malone or someone across the pond. Protool users don't know either :/

[Yozh]

As robnitro said at least you can bump it to 850 or so with ISTA. May be do that in the interim.

[Boyd122]

Originally Posted by Yozh

As robnitro said at least you can bump it to 850 or so with ISTA. May be do that in the interim.

It's not so much as it always needing to high idle, just I want to be able engage it at times of needs. 🤥

[RL18]

Doesn't the dde already compensate for that? My tune has a more aggressive high idle feature but it's based on outside temp and coolant temp I think. There's really no need to excessively idle your car when it doesn't need it though. I've never had an issue getting my car up to temp or keeping my car up to temp in the winter even on below zero days...

The only issue I was having on really cold days was my inside door handle would go limp until my car heated up lol

[Boyd122]

Originally Posted by RL18

Doesn't the dde already compensate for that? My BRR tune has a more aggressive high idle feature but it's based on outside temp and coolant temp I think. There's really no need to excessively idle your car when it doesn't need it though. I've never had an issue getting my car up to temp or keeping my car up to temp in the winter even on below zero days...

The only issue I was having on really cold days was my inside door handle would go limp until my car heated up lol

I'm not sure, I've had days where my car will spit and sputter trying to keep itself alive so I would have to get a stick or rod of some sort to keep the idle around 900-1000... it may be a tune thing but yeah.... I don't think 800-1200 is excessive but the turbo whistles may get there 😂

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Boyd122

I'm not sure, I've had days where my car will spit and sputter trying to keep itself alive so I would have to get a stick or rod of some sort to keep the idle around 900-1000... it may be a tune thing but yeah.... I don't think 800-1200 is excessive but the turbo whistles may get there 😂

Maybe you should try running an anti gel additive because my 335d is loud on cold start but never spits and sputters and I've started it after a week consistent below zero and it gets loud but never has a sputter. It did do a type of rpm sputter on cold starts when I first bought it but went away after using my opti-lube winter blend after a couple tanks of fuel.

Here's a video at what it would sound like though if your wondering:

That's not a "high idle" but part of the bleeding of the fuel system function on my foxwell scanner that raises the idle to like 1500 rpm.

[Boyd122]

Originally Posted by RL18

Maybe you should try running an anti gel additive because my 335d is loud on cold start but never spits and sputters and I've started it after a week consistent below zero and it gets loud but never has a sputter. It did do a type of rpm sputter on cold starts when I first bought it but went away after using my opti-lube winter blend after a couple tanks of fuel.

Here's a video at what it would sound like though if your wondering:

That's not a "high idle" but part of the bleeding of the fuel system function on my foxwell scanner that raises the idle to like 1500 rpm.

I do, I run hot shots secret and stenadyne depending on what I have around... anyway, all I wanted to know is if anyone new how to code in a high idle feature. Got my answer and will be looking for a way to do it...

[awenthol]

Originally Posted by Boyd122

I'm not sure, I've had days where my car will spit and sputter trying to keep itself alive so I would have to get a stick or rod of some sort to keep the idle around 900-1000... it may be a tune thing but yeah.... I don't think 800-1200 is excessive but the turbo whistles may get there ��

I worked R&Q (Engineering) for a major diesel OEM and now engineering for an EGR Tier 1. Here's my $0.02

1) These cars have electric heating elements in the HVAC, so using the argument that you need to warm up the interior is not really a good argument to make...

2) BMW was a big opponent of remote start in their cars, because of how wasteful it is (fuel consumption, but also more on this below).

3) If, per above, you actually have rough idle, you should be figuring it out--ie, glow plugs? I've cold started my car at -20°F with no issues (rough idle).

4) Idling an engine--any engine--cold is a bad idea. OEMs have implemented strategies to cope, but the simple fact is (again, gas or diesel) you do not have enough load to get good combusion and will ALWAYS end up with some sort of cylinder wash. Yes, even Ram's 1500RPM cruise high idle is not enough load...merely a band-aid, at best

5) EVERY OEM designs their engines to be operated immediately after starting. Avoid lugging/high loading the engine (until oil temps are 170°F+), and try to keep revs up to aid warm-up, but otherwise, just start up and drive relatively "normal."

6) I cannot comment on how BMW is handling it, but most diesel OEMs have a strategy for "Cold Ambient Protection," where the ECM will do it's best to maintain coolant temperatures at LOW idle. Typically, this requires/involves an exhaust throttle valve to drive backpressure (which the BMWs obviously don't have). On the VGT'd light duty trucks you see this with closing the vanes.


I'm not saying I've never low idle my D for extended periods, but best practice for me is; if the engine's on, it's driving. I'm sure someone that's good with coding, could figure something out, but what I'm getting at is, there is no point.....

[Nadir Point]

Here's your change for $.02:

Originally Posted by awenthol

1) These cars have electric heating elements in the HVAC, so using the argument that you need to warm up the interior is not really a good argument to make...

How or why anybody wants to idle their car is their business alone. MInd your own if you don't have any positive advice to give.

Originally Posted by awenthol

2) BMW was a big opponent of remote start in their cars, because of how wasteful it is (fuel consumption, but also more on this below).

Judge your own wastefulness. (see above for more info.)

Originally Posted by awenthol

3) If, per above, you actually have rough idle, you should be figuring it out--ie, glow plugs? I've cold started my car at -20°F with no issues (rough idle).

The issue is not "rough" - it's high. Pay attention. But then again, you're not really interested in helping, so....

Originally Posted by awenthol

4) Idling an engine--any engine--cold is a bad idea. OEMs have implemented strategies to cope, but the simple fact is (again, gas or diesel) you do not have enough load to get good combusion and will ALWAYS end up with some sort of cylinder wash. Yes, even Ram's 1500RPM cruise high idle is not enough load...merely a band-aid, at best

Again, the issue is "high," and a smart idle under certain conditions is a "good" thing.

Originally Posted by awenthol

5) EVERY OEM designs their engines to be operated immediately after starting. Avoid lugging/high loading the engine (until oil temps are 170°F+), and try to keep revs up to aid warm-up, but otherwise, just start up and drive relatively "normal."

Are you one of those people that thinks every OEM designs everything just right? I bet you did in all that engineering work you used to do!

Originally Posted by awenthol

6) I cannot comment on how BMW is handling it, but most diesel OEMs have a strategy for "Cold Ambient Protection," where the ECM will do it's best to maintain coolant temperatures at LOW idle. Typically, this requires/involves an exhaust throttle valve to drive backpressure (which the BMWs obviously don't have). On the VGT'd light duty trucks you see this with closing the vanes.

Do everybody a favor and don't comment on anything unless you have some useful information to share.

Originally Posted by awenthol

I'm not saying I've never low idle my D for extended periods, but best practice for me is; if the engine's on, it's driving. I'm sure someone that's good with coding, could figure something out, but what I'm getting at is, there is no point.....

The point is time wasting. Big score on that point, bud. Thanks a bunch!

[awenthol]

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

Here's your change for $.02:



How or why anybody wants to idle their car is their business alone. MInd your own if you don't have any positive advice to give.


Judge your own wastefulness. (see above for more info.)


The issue is not "rough" - it's high. Pay attention. But then again, you're not really interested in helping, so....


Again, the issue is "high," and a smart idle under certain conditions is a "good" thing.


Are you one of those people that thinks every OEM designs everything just right? I bet you did in all that engineering work you used to do!


Do everybody a favor and don't comment on anything unless you have some useful information to share.



The point is time wasting. Big score on that point, bud. Thanks a bunch!

[C12H24]

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

The issue is not "rough" - it's high. Pay attention. But then again, you're not really interested in helping, so....

Do everybody a favor and don't comment on anything unless you have some useful information to share.

The point is time wasting. Big score on that point, bud. Thanks a bunch!

Please do yourself a favor and read the thread. OP mentioned wanting high idle due to rough cold starts.

Additionally, WTF is your problem? Do yourself a favor and don't comment unless you have some useful information to share. Since you're clearly so much "more smarter than everyone," please provide the details on how YOU would code the cruise control to high idle or GTFO.

[geko29]

If you're getting a rough idle when cold, you may have one or more failing injectors. My experience when they're going bad is the car idles rough--especially when cold--and then smooths out almost perfectly at 1100-1200rpm.

It is not normal for these cars to idle roughly, even in cold temperatures. My car is stored outside in the Chicago suburbs, which I think you'll agree is WAY colder than the Texas panhandle. Hell, we recently went an entire month where the temperature didn't get above freezing even once. That sometimes makes for difficult starts, but the car idles just fine.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by geko29

If you're getting a rough idle when cold, you may have one or more failing injectors. My experience when they're going bad is the car idles rough--especially when cold--and then smooths out almost perfectly at 1100-1200rpm.

It is not normal for these cars to idle roughly, even in cold temperatures. My car is stored outside in the Chicago suburbs, which I think you'll agree is WAY colder than the Texas panhandle. Hell, we recently went an entire month where the temperature didn't get above freezing even once. That sometimes makes for difficult starts, but the car idles just fine.

Literally. These cars do not start hard at all. I start up my 335d after it's been in storage all winter on a single digit day the other day and the glow plugs hit for like two seconds and the car cranks over like It's nothing. A lot of this I owe to using a good additive. Some say they don't do shit, but I've used my fair share of winter additives back when I had my 01 7.3l diesel some really don't do shit but the moment I started using opti-lube winter blend I had zero issues cranking that pig over on below zero days... same thing on both my 335d and x5d I didn't think they needed the additive, then on really cold days they would struggle, starting adding optilube winter blend and they turn over in the cold so much smoother. If you're still struggling even using the additive then you probably have injector issues because of shitty fuel or glow plug/module is bad.