[Abaker11]

I’m thinking of doing an oil change on my 2011 328i xdrive for the first time. The engine is an n51. I’ve done oil changes on other makes of cars but I’m wondering if there’s anything I should know about doing one on this car. I know bmws are sometimes tough to work on so I want to ensure I don’t mess anything up. Really I’m just looking for some helpful tips or important things to know. Thanks!!

[ro881e]

No different to any other car really.

Assuming it's similar to my N52, Remove oil filter, let drain back into the filter housing and then head under to release the sump plug. It shoots out sideways so watch out. Cleaner to remove the under tray than use via the flap but up to you. Whilst draining, remove the oil filter and replace the 2 o-rings and be careful NOT to remove or damage the cage structure in the filter cap as these are critical for oil drain and vanos function. Chuck in the new filter OEM is best - I use Mann - lube the o-rings to prevent tearing or folding and tighten up by hand. There is a torque setting but forget it as you need a massive tool. Replace the sump plug and a new crush washer and do torque this to spec - or 'guten-tight' of you don't have a torque wrench. Refill with new oil 5W-30 Castrol edge or similar, fill same amount as you got out as there is no dip stick. Start her up and let run until the i-drive will show the oil level, or access via the stalk computer thingy. Top up and you are done!

Someone will no doubt point out something I missed but it's pretty easy really, quick DIY job on the drive way.

[JB20DGM]

It's a painless job for the most part, depending on who did the last oil change you might need something to remove the oil filter cap...either the correct wrench/socket or a strap wrench will work. As noted above if the oil drain faces sideways out of the pan after you open the access flap the oil will get all over the place...if you don't feel like messing with all of the screws that hold the lower engine cover/shield on I have found you can kind of make a guard/funnel out of aluminum foil to redirect the oil flow right through the access flap area and keep things clean(er).

[Efthreeoh]

ro881e has it close enough, but I'd like to augment his procedure.

For safety sake it's best to lift the E90 chassis up on all four of its lift points so the car (a) has all 4 wheels are off the ground, so there is no risk of the car rolling off whatever apparatus it is on when lifted, and (b) it is level for a complete oil drain out of the engine. In the DIY section there are numerous threads on how to properly and safely lift the E90. Attached is BMW's official procedure; lift from the center jack points and place a jackstand at each of the four lifting points. The xi E90 has a different front center jacking point than the non-AWD chassis.

Once the car is lifted properly, the steps are:

(1) open the oil filter housing by removing the oil filter cap. It is best to get the correct 86MM, 16-point fluted BMW oil cap removal tool to get good purchase on the plastic oil filter cap (just Google BMW E90 oil filter cap removal tool to find one - get an aluminum version, the stamped steel ones suck).

Here I leave the unscrewed cap assembly sitting cockeyed in the housing until the engine has drained for three reasons (a) it opens the vacuum in the engine block for better draining from the drain plug opening and (b) lessens the amount of residual oil that doesn't drain from the housing, and (c) lets oil drain from the filter element so it less messy. * You will need a turkey baster or a mechanics baster (found at auto part stores) to suck out the few ounces of oil that does not drain from the oil filter housing.

(2) remove the oil drain access panel on the engine belly pan to access the drain bolt.

(3) open the drain bolt on the oil pan and let the oil drain into a container. The drain bolt is 17MM.

(4) * back up top side, remove the oil filter cap/oil filter element and suck out the residual oil in the oil filter housing.

(5) pull the oil filter element from the filter cap and remove the two old o-rings. One is a small green o-ring on the stem of the oil filter cap, the second one is the large black o-ring on the perimeter of the oil cap. The new oil filter element should have new o-rings and a copper crush washer with it.

(6) wipe out the oil cap and oil filter housing with a shop rag.

(7) lube the two o-rings with fresh oil and replace them on the oil cap assembly in the correct places. Make specific note of where the large o-ring sits on the cap, it is above the threaded section but a about 2 MM below the lip of the cap in a square-grooved channel. Not placing the large o-ring correctly will lead to oil spewing from the cap once the oil pressure builds up.

Then slide the new filter element up on the cage part of the oil filter cap and press it into the cap until it snaps into place. ro881e is correct, buy either a original equipment oil filter element from BMW or the OEM version from MANN. It is a HU-816x. Most Advanced Auto or O'Reily's store carry the MANN oil filter.

(8) reinstall the oil filter cap assembly. Make sure the o-rings are pre-lubricated with oil. The correct torque is 18 pound-foot. Basically just turn the cap until it stops. More tight does not make the o-ring seal better. Don't use Ape torque on it (i.e. a simian - gorilla).

(9) back down under the car, reinstall the oil drain plug with the new copper crush washer. The torque is also 18 pound-foot. Again, no need to Ape torque it. I usually screw the plug in until it stops, then use a light hit with my fist to set the torque.

(10) refill the engine with oil. Here is where people screw up. The N51 takes 6.9 (7) quarts of oil or the equivalent of 6.5 liters. Like ro881e said there is no mechanical dipstick, so the refill procedure is different than using a mechanical dipstick. Just fill the engine with 7 quarts (or just over 6.5L of oil - I found 6.7 liters is best). Read the link below so you understand how the e-dipstick works. This will prevent you from under or over filling the engine with oil. The N51/N52 is not very sensitive to oil level; it just needs to be 7 quarts, no need to second guess it - seven (7) quarts.



https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1533444

[edycol]

It is less complicated than my Toyota minivan was. Most important part is oil filter cage. Make sure you replace that small o-ring on the cage. Check if you put o-ring on the cage before fitting filter back and screw it into OFH.
Don’t use just any synthetic oil. In N51/52 you don’t necessarily need LL01 oil with newest update. But use oil that has at lest MB229.5 approval. Mobil1 0W40 is excellent choice readily available at Wal Mart.

[CTinline-six]

I would say using a MANN HU816X filter is probably the way to go. They are the OEM filter and fit the filter housing the best. I've seen other filters get crushed and cause issues since they are spec'd slightly different.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

I would say using a MANN HU816X filter is probably the way to go. They are the OEM filter and fit the filter housing the best. I've seen other filters get crushed and cause issues since they are spec'd slightly different.

MANN, Hengst or Mahle. I used all of them. No issues. I tracked vehicle and changed oil after 5k with some 700-1000 miles of track time, no problems.

[wizardfingers2020]

castrol edge european formula?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by wizardfingers2020

castrol edge european formula?

5W30 and 5W40 are mediocre gfor it category.
0W30 and 0W40 are way to go.