[alextremo]

So I spent a while last night searching the forum for details on this, and thought it might make sense to put this info into one thread (if one exists I apologize, but I could not find it) Can you guys post your opinions of the top maintenance tips and additional bolt on mods that help extend the life or our tuned engines, in order of importance?

It might also help newcomers to turbo cars/tuning (like me) if we list why these are important. If there’s enough feedback I’ll consolidate this into one list. I don’t know if these are correct, or in the right order, but here’s an idea of what I had in mind…

Maintenance Suggestions:

1) Change oil every 5k to 7.5k miles as higher boost leads to hotter engine temperatures which breaks down oil more quickly. This will insure the turbos stay properly lubricated as they spin at higher than stock RPMs.
2) Change spark plugs every 25k mile as adjustments to the air/fuel mix and hotter operating temps can cause premature wear on the plugs. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=spark+plugs
3) Clean/change air filter every 10k to 15k miles to allow for maximum air flow. For those with red filters, K&N sell a recharge kit for cleaning and oiling. For those with blue, AFE sells a similar kit. The oil is colored so get the type that matches your intake.
4) Drain/clean any oil accumulated in oil catch can, if applicable, at each oil change or when oil is visible in catch can.
5) Clean intake valves to remove carbon buildup every 5k to 10k miles: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=sea+foam
6) Grease aftermarket diverter valves at each oil change: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=12

Additional mods:

1) Boost gauge to monitor boost, insure that tune is producing expected results in relation to boost targets.
2) Scan/ data log with Bavarian Technic Diagnostic Tool to view codes/ shadow codes and view ECU values to understand impact of tune on engine operation.
3) Upgraded air intake(s) to allow greater air flow into the turbos which will reduce the load on the turbos during high boost.
4) Upgraded FMIC to reduce the inlet air temperature which reduces the amount of boost needed to make the same power. Colder air is denser, therefore turbos don't need to spin as hard to make power.
5) Add/ upgrade oil cooler as the N54 runs hot, even stock. Adding an oil cooler will reduce the heat and therefore the stress on the engine internals and turbos.
6) Better flowing down pipes will reduce restriction on the exhaust gas thereby reducing stress on the turbines.
7) Better flowing exhaust (see 6 above)
8) Add an oil catch can to reduce excess oil from building up in IC and charge pipes.
9) Upgrade diverter valves to support higher boost pressure

Care/Other:

1) Allow engine to warm up prior to applying excessive throttle/ inducing boost. Recommendation seems to be allow car to warm up between 5-10 mins before driving and/or prevent RPMs from exceeding 2500 for 5-10 mins in cold weather to allow engine and oil to reach proper operating temperature.
2) Refrain from WOT runs within a few minutes of turning car off. Keeping the car running prior to shut down does not seem necessary as the turbos are also water cooled, and the water pump will continue to run after car is off. This should keep the oil from coking in the turbos, but no harm in taking it easy prior to shutting down.
3) Bentley Service Manual has detailed repair instructions, specs and maintenance requirements: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-E90-E91-Se...8453394&sr=8-4

[Alessandro]

The best would be return it in 36 months and take a new one

But i would agree with your points if you want to keep the car longer.

[munters]

Downpipes for better flow as well.
You're coopying my own list

[spyahoo]

Originally Posted by Alessandro

The best would be return it in 36 months and take a new one

But i would agree with your points if you want to keep the car longer.

Amen, I have owned many BMWs and my 1 rule is never own them after warranty is gone. You will get raped

[5soko]

Letting the car cool down a bit after a spirted drive, before shutting her down.

[inthemiddle]

Originally Posted by spyahoo

Amen, I have owned many BMWs and my 1 rule is never own them after warranty is gone. You will get raped

yea.. but you already took a huge depreciation hit to start with.... so why not keep it a little longer.... hard to stomach maybe ... but really... if you do the math... i'm at like 65K with the car/oem aero kit.. all the mods... sure i could sell some of them..... but in the first 3 years.. i lose like 30k in depreciation... that's 10K a year.... jump into another one you are surely giving that away...

you really think repair bills are gonna be 10K a year after that ?? (or 10k minus depreciation for that year ?)

[jpsimon]

Originally Posted by 5soko335i

Letting the car cool down a bit after a spirted drive, before shutting her down.

That isn't necessary on this car. No one makes a turbo timer for this car because it is not needed. If you want to convince yourself that you're being extra safe.. you can always just drive the car easy for a mile or so before you get back.... but really it isn't necessary

[joec500]

Also realize as the N54 gets older and more and more get out of warranty, independent shops will gain more and more familarity with the motor and the repair costs should go down quite a bit...It won't be cheap, but more reasonable....The 2.7T Audi motor is a great Example.

[XPO186]

Catch can

Also, draining/cleaning any accumulated oil in the IC and charge pipe.
How about greasing your diverter valves?

[OneBad335XI]

Originally Posted by XPO186

Catch can

Also, draining/cleaning any accumulated oil in the IC and charge pipe.
How about greasing your diverter valves?

Overkill.....

[XPO186]

Originally Posted by OneBad335XI

Overkill.....

I suppose some would think that... but I was surprised at the accumulation in my IC after just 10k miles.

[Sniz]

Originally Posted by XPO186

I suppose some would think that... but I was surprised at the accumulation in my IC after just 10k miles.

+1, there is plenty of oil in there. Good to clean it out.

[DC5ITR88]

its simple dont crank up the boost so high that the stock turbos cant handle

[per]

Originally Posted by Alessandro

The best would be return it in 36 months and take a new one

But i would agree with your points if you want to keep the car longer.

Followed your advice and ordered a new one today, white with DCT tranny

[Alessandro]

Originally Posted by per

Followed your advice and ordered a new one today, white with DCT tranny

this is also what i gonna do as well enjoy

stay safe

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

That isn't necessary on this car. No one makes a turbo timer for this car because it is not needed. If you want to convince yourself that you're being extra safe.. you can always just drive the car easy for a mile or so before you get back.... but really it isn't necessary

That's correct, I remember having read in the specs of the N54 that its turbos continue to spool and thus cool down for some time after the engine itself is shut down. A "cooling down drive" is therefore not necessary, as it was for older FI cars.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

I would also replace the stock diverter valves by aftermarket ones made by Forge or Riss Racing. Helps support the higher boost pressure without pressure loss by ripped stock valves.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[5soko]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

That isn't necessary on this car. No one makes a turbo timer for this car because it is not needed. If you want to convince yourself that you're being extra safe.. you can always just drive the car easy for a mile or so before you get back.... but really it isn't necessary

Yup, you are correct, it is not necessary since the coolant continues to circulate if necessary. But just for my own piece of mind, i would as you mentioned drive the car like a grandmom the last mile to my house, or (what i should have mentioned) if i drive my car hard before shutting her down, let it idle for a bit, 30sec or so.

One reason i do the following is, usually you want the oil to circulate to get that extra cooling, which is not done when the car is shut off. I guess just a EXTRA safe caution since i have a tuned car.Then again i rarely drive my car right before i shut it down.

[Septro]

I would of thought an FMIC would be just below the boost gauge in terms of importance of mods. The resultant lowering of the boost as a byproduct of an upgraded FMIC would do much to staying away from high boost values, especially at speed.

Then again, the way we drive, we'd just negate the lowered boost value by driving the car harder..

[stressdoc]

Originally Posted by per

Followed your advice and ordered a new one today, white with DCT tranny

Wait for new BMW Performance 330 HP tune (Euro) / ZMP for USA 2010?

[per]

Originally Posted by stressdoc

Wait for new BMW Performance 330 HP tune (Euro) / ZMP for USA 2010?

I have ordered catless dp,fmic, and since i already have v3,dci and exhaust i believe this baby will make a lot more whp.

[absix]

Good thread