[A990]

Hi Guys,

Did a Xenon retrofit to a halo car the Hid's turn on but as soon as you turn the engine on they flicker the right side will shut off and the driver side flicker ....

The High beam seem to work okay with engine running...

Any Ideas what could be wrong here....

Thanks,
/A

[Kev]

You need a new footwell module and get it reprogrammed, OR you can get the Vista retrofit kit from Andy on E90Post. I recommend the easy route of finding Andy and getting his harness.

[A990]

Hi,

I'm using the Andy's Harness which worked fine during test but when installed it is flickering....

I've double checked all connections....

/A

Originally Posted by Kev

You need a new footwell module and get it reprogrammed, OR you can get the Vista retrofit kit from Andy on E90Post. I recommend the easy route of finding Andy and getting his harness.

[jzchen]

You need a 10mF capacitor or equivalent capacitance. A friend is using two 4700uF , 9.4mF total, from Radio Shack per bulb and errors for ~15sec and then everything is fine. (Thank or PM JonLerd for more info...)

When looking for the capacitors be sure they are rated higher than 15V, (more specifically higher than output Vmax from the alternator.)

[A990]

Thanks but do you still need them if you are getting power from the battery directly ?

Originally Posted by jzchen

You need a 10mF capacitor or equivalent capacitance. A friend is using two 4700uF , 9.4mF total, from Radio Shack per bulb and errors for ~15sec and then everything is fine. (Thank or PM JonLerd for more info...)

When looking for the capacitors be sure they are rated higher than 15V, (more specifically higher than output Vmax from the alternator.)

[thefox456]

To help you out i did the same mod on my e90 and i had the same problem with the xenon light flickering when the engine is on but to help you i went on ebay and got me the anti-error kit or error remover it cost about 30 bucks and that 's it, simple installation and you're xenon will work.

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by A990

Thanks but do you still need them if you are getting power from the battery directly ?

I am assuming you are using a relay and the trigger to the relay is the original output for the old bulbs.

Jon put an oscilloscope onto the outputs and found a 95% duty cycle. This could translate through the trigger...

[A990]

That's true & the relay is buzzing all the time when the engine is running.

Do you think 2x 4700 will have the same effect ?

I saw a post from the charger guys where he added the capacitor in the same plug as where you put relay in i:e +ve on 85 and -ve on 86 will that help in my case as well ?

Many Thanks,
/a

Originally Posted by jzchen

I am assuming you are using a relay and the trigger to the relay is the original output for the old bulbs.

Jon put an oscilloscope onto the outputs and found a 95% duty cycle. This could translate through the trigger...

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by A990

That's true & the relay is buzzing all the time when the engine is running.

Do you think 2x 4700 will have the same effect ?

I saw a post from the charger guys where he added the capacitor in the same plug as where you put relay in i:e +ve on 85 and -ve on 86 will that help in my case as well ?

Many Thanks,
/a

I do believe that is the solution for flickering. I do not personally have an oscilloscope to measure and I'm afraid my car came with HIDs so it would be futile for me to go and buy one to check for you...

The capacitor should stabilize the voltage/current to the circuit. Exactly how much/large of one you need is not an easy question to answer. My friend did put one 4700uF at first, but lost a radio station in the process. After adding the second the radio station came back. Noise I'm assuming....

[jzchen]

Yes, 85 and 86. Now here is some nice info. on relays:

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

If the original halogen was 55W and the HID is 35W I'm not sure you even need a relay, but since you've already hooked them up...

You can add one capacitor if you can find a large enough one. The 4700uF ones are readily available at Radio Shack which is found all over the place here... That being said he did the conversion without using a relay, so that capacitance applies to a direct replacement without relay.

You should try a smaller capacitor in your case because you are using a relay. I'm not exactly sure what size uF wise but just make sure to keep it above that 15V. When you turn off the lights the capacitor will effectively keep your lights on.

It might be better to try without the relays altogether...

[jzchen]

Last note, please be careful when adding capacitors. If you add them the wrong way they pop/explode.

[A990]

Thanks Mate,

Would you know anything about diodes so that i dont back feed the system when i switchoff the car.

Many Thanks,
/A

Originally Posted by jzchen

Yes, 85 and 86. Now here is some nice info. on relays:

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

If the original halogen was 55W and the HID is 35W I'm not sure you even need a relay, but since you've already hooked them up...

You can add one capacitor if you can find a large enough one. The 4700uF ones are readily available at Radio Shack which is found all over the place here... That being said he did the conversion without using a relay, so that capacitance applies to a direct replacement without relay.

You should try a smaller capacitor in your case because you are using a relay. I'm not exactly sure what size uF wise but just make sure to keep it above that 15V. When you turn off the lights the capacitor will effectively keep your lights on.

It might be better to try without the relays altogether...

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by A990

Thanks Mate,

Would you know anything about diodes so that i dont back feed the system when i switchoff the car.

Many Thanks,
/A

What do you mean by back feed?

[A990]

Diodes are most often used across the coil to provide a path for current when the current path to the relay is interrupted (i.e. switched off, coil no longer energized). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may be sensitive to voltage spikes.

Originally Posted by jzchen

What do you mean by back feed?

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by A990

Diodes are most often used across the coil to provide a path for current when the current path to the relay is interrupted (i.e. switched off, coil no longer energized). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may be sensitive to voltage spikes.

Ahh. Direct from the information I provided a link to. (Can you tell I have no experience with regards to them in this situation?) You want to connect it as stated. (I think it is very clear with regards to how to connect it? If not just ask. That I can definitely understand. You don't want it the other way otherwise chaos.) As to which one to pick, I want to assume a 1N4001 should be more than enough, with a peak of 50V and 1A when the circuit is 12V and less than 0.2A. More higher of both values is of course safer, but could definitely be overkill, and inconvenient to connect, (read a large diode.) Again, I haven't used a diode with a relay though. Sorry, you got me there!!! Maybe someone else can chime in on that one.

[jzchen]

Never mind. You should be okay with the diode.

[A990]

Thanks for the info...i've spent some time thinking about what you said before that the capacitor will keep the relay open & thus no back feed will occur.

do you think a diode is still a good idea or not if yes then which pins on the relay same 85 86 or what ?

Originally Posted by jzchen

Never mind. You should be okay with the diode.

[kmarei]

does anyone know how to stablise the buzzing relays?
i am using relays to power my angel eyes so they always get 14v not 10.75 stock
but when they are triggered they buzz
i know its because the voltage is PWM so its constantly being switched on and off to get the 10.75 average

[A990]

As jzchen said try adding a capacitor to fix the problem....

Just had a look at the charger guys they use 470uF 35V capacitor to fix the problem. have a go and let us know if it works i'll test mine next week...

Originally Posted by kmarei

does anyone know how to stablise the buzzing relays?
i am using relays to power my angel eyes so they always get 14v not 10.75 stock
but when they are triggered they buzz
i know its because the voltage is PWM so its constantly being switched on and off to get the 10.75 average

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by A990

Thanks for the info...i've spent some time thinking about what you said before that the capacitor will keep the relay open & thus no back feed will occur.

do you think a diode is still a good idea or not if yes then which pins on the relay same 85 86 or what ?

Well, the info. says the diode protects the surrounding and the relay. While the 35V capacitor definitely has some room for a voltage spike, I am concerned about this buzzing/humming sound from the relay, so I guess you could protect the relay as well. Yup, 85 and 86, same as the capacitor, and BE SURE you connect that as directed as well!!! If you do the diode protection you can connect a 15V Capacitor, read smaller component and easier to install, since you are protecting for voltage spikes.

The capacitor may help against back feed. That is a novel thought I'm not sure about.

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by A990

As jzchen said try adding a capacitor to fix the problem....

Just had a look at the charger guys they use 470uF 35V capacitor to fix the problem. have a go and let us know if it works i'll test mine next week...

Thanks for sharing the capacitor size! Also, is this setup giving no errors with the car? If so did you use a load resistor in parallel to acheive this? (I will have to report to my friend since he's getting that 15 sec. error and would love to give him a solution.)

Good point, it may well solve the buzzing sound and a diode may not be necessary at all...

[jzchen]

While this relay may just do the trick with regards to errors, I'm afraid it probably defeats the bulb out error when the bulb does go out. But then you can "see" that the light is out...