[Belarus]

Brand________DOT Rating__Dry Boiling/Wet Boiling

AP Racing 551 - DOT 3 - 527°F (275°C) / 302ºF (145ºC)

AP Racing 600 - DOT 3 - 590°F (310°C) / 410°F (210°C)

AP PRF Racing - DOT 4 - 608°F (320ºC) / 311°F (155ºC)

ATE Super Blue - DOT 4 - 536ºF (280ºC) / 396ºF (194ºC)

ATE Super 200 - DOT 4 - 536ºF (280ºC) / 382ºF (194ºC)

Bosch - DOT 3 - 491ºF (255ºC) / 288ºF (142ºC)

Bosch - DOT 4 - 509ºF (265ºC) / 329ºF (165ºC)

Bosch - DOT 4+ - 536ºF (280ºC) / 356ºF (180ºC)

Brembo LCF 600+ - DOT 4 - 601ºF (316ºC) / 399ºF (204ºC)

Brembo EVO 500+ - DOT 4 - 520ºF (271ºC) / 336ºF (169ºC)

Castrol GT LMA - DOT 4 - 509ºF (265ºC) / 311ºF (155ºC)

Castrol SRF - DOT 4 - 590ºF (310ºC) / 518ºF (270ºC)

GS610 - DOT 4 - 610°F (321°C) / 421°F (216°C)

Gunk(Berryman)HD - DOT 4 - 510ºF (266ºC) / 311ºF (155ºC)

Motul DOT 5.1 - DOT 5.1 - 509ºF (265ºC) / 365ºF (185ºC)

Motul RBF 600 - DOT 4 - 594ºF (312ºC) / 421ºF (216ºC)

Motul RBF 660 - DOT 4 - 617ºF (325ºC) / 400ºF (204ºC)

Neo Super DOT16 - DOT 4 - 610°F (322°C) / 421°F (216°C)

Pentosin Super - DOT 4 - 500°F (260°C) / 338°F (170°C)

Prospeed RS683 - DOT 4 - 683°F (360°C) / 439°F (224°C)

Pentosin RBF - DOT 5.1 - 572°F (300°C) / 392ºF (200°C)

ValvolineProSyn - DOT 3/4 - 527ºF (275ºC) / 347ºF (175ºC)

Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 - DOT 3 - 570ºF (299ºC) / 284ºF (140ºC)

Wilwood EXP600 Plus - DOT 4 - 633ºF (330ºC) / 417ºF (213ºC)

[Mr. 5]

This is some great info.
I'm going to sticky this!

[Bimmer325]

Just a quick one:

Do we change the Brake Fluid based on 'Time' or 'Mileage'?

My last change was done in Nov 2007 at approx. 8000km. The OBC prompted its due Nov 2009 for another change, now at 14000km.
Judging from the OBC date, the interval is 2 yrs since my last change in Nov 2007.

Do i need to change it since my car is under usage in 3.5 yrs.

Thanks all.

[Belarus]

Every two years is a recommended time interval for Brake Fluid flush and change if you don't track your car.

[driftdriven]

So if I autocross once a month how often should I change and what fluid should I get?

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by driftdriven

So if I autocross once a month how often should I change and what fluid should I get?

Don't quote me on this, but I read some where rule of thumb after two track days if you're hard on the breaks.

Can't go wrong with any of this, all have high boiling point to reduce brake fading effect:

ATE Super Blue - DOT 4 - 536ºF (280ºC) / 396ºF (194ºC)/ATE Super 200 - DOT 4 - 536ºF (280ºC) / 382ºF (194ºC) .... Both same brake fluid just different color. Rotating between two color helps to see the old fluid was completely flushed out.

Castrol SRF - DOT 4 - 590ºF (310ºC) / 518ºF (270ºC) .... VERY EXPENSIVE around $70/bottle

Motul RBF 600 - DOT 4 - 594ºF (312ºC) / 421ºF (216ºC)

Wilwood EXP600 Plus - DOT 4 - 633ºF (330ºC) / 417ºF (213ºC)

[WaarrEagle]

What is the OEM fluid and how does it compare? Any issues using non-OEM fluid on a car still under warranty?

[Belarus]

BMW OEM DOT 4 Boiling Point (Dry) 446*F / (Wet) 311*F

If you don't track your car and haven't upgraded your brake system why would you want to use another brand if your car is under warranty Considering BMW US covers regular brake system service including brake fluid flush as per their 2 year schedule if I'm not mistaken.

[v4voodoo]

Originally Posted by Belarus

If you don't track your car and haven't upgraded your brake system why would you want to use another brand if your car is under warranty Considering BMW US covers regular brake system service including brake fluid flush as per their 2 year schedule if I'm not mistaken.

Because you will boil the stock fluid in 2 laps on the track and have to nurse the car for the rest of the session with faded brakes. It doesn't have much to do with upgrading your brake system. In fact, a stock brake system stresses your fluid more because it gets hotter.
A fluid flush with Motul 600 is not expensive when done yourself. And no, there are no warranty issues, just use any DOT 4 fluid you like.

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by v4voodoo

Because you will boil the stock fluid in 2 laps on the track and have to nurse the car for the rest of the session with faded brakes. It doesn't have much to do with upgrading your brake system. In fact, a stock brake system stresses your fluid more because it gets hotter.
A fluid flush with Motul 600 is not expensive when done yourself. And no, there are no warranty issues, just use any DOT 4 fluid you like.

Did you read my post... "If you don't track your car...."
...

[v4voodoo]

Originally Posted by Belarus

Did you read my post... "If you don't track your car...."
...

Even if you don't track your car, it's very cheap insurance to have good brake fluid in your system. Even ATE Superblue is vastly superior to the rubbish stock fluid.

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by v4voodoo

Even if you don't track your car, it's very cheap insurance to have good brake fluid in your system. Even ATE Superblue is vastly superior to the rubbish stock fluid.

It certainly won't hurt... however if all you do is drive your car even spiritedly the brake fluid used by BMW is more than good enough and it doesn't cost you a dollar while the car is under warranty...

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by TrackRat

There is nothing rubbish about the BMW DOT 4 OE brake fluid. It functions just fine like any other DOT 4 fluid. ATE is fine as are others including Castrol LMA which is a low moisture absorption brake fluid which is inexpensive and excellent for street use.

+1 to Castrol LMA, I've been using it with my BBK with no complaint...

[v4voodoo]

Originally Posted by TrackRat

There is nothing rubbish about the BMW DOT 4 OE brake fluid. It functions just fine like any other DOT 4 fluid. ATE is fine as are others including Castrol LMA which is a low moisture absorption brake fluid which is inexpensive and excellent for street use.

If 446F/311F dry/wet boiling point* is not rubbish, what is? Between an E36 M3, an E46 M3, an 05 Z4 and an 07 335i I have never driven a BMW with OEM fluid whose brake pedal didn't get mushy after a couple of hard high speed stops.

*Belarus stats, not verified by me. I actually think it may be even worse than that.

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by v4voodoo

If 446F/311F dry/wet boiling point* is not rubbish, what is? Between an E36 M3, an E46 M3, an 05 Z4 and an 07 335i I have never driven a BMW with OEM fluid whose brake pedal didn't get mushy after a couple of hard high speed stops.

*Belarus stats, not verified by me. I actually think it may be even worse than that.

Sine you've been having mushy brake pedal with all of your cars (I'm assuming during your daily drive) after only slamming few times on the brakes (surprised you din't put that brake pedal through the floor... cough..cough) just use Castrol SRF - DOT 4 - 590ºF (310ºC) / 518ºF (270ºC), if that doesn't help, then you're SOL until a special brand comes out for your heavy brake pedal foot. While you're at it also upgrade to StopTech or Brembo GT at least 6 pitson front and 4 piston rear BBK.

BTW I'm interested how often you change your brake pads and rotors... hmmm every 10K miles...

[v4voodoo]

Originally Posted by TrackRat

The temps listed above for various brake fluids appear correct and they work as advertised in my experience. There is similar/same data on various websites. Use whatever brake fluid makes you happy but I would not make broad based disparaging comments about BMW brake fluid or Castrol LMA without objective test data to support your opinion.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...pID=BRAKEFLUID

Hmm, where do you see me saying anything about Castrol LMA? I am only speaking to what I have experience with.
According to the temps listed above, the OEM fluid has the lowest boiling point of the fluids mentioned here (SuperBlue, Motul 600, SRF). How is that not objective data supporting my opinion?


My issues with the stock fluid definitely stemmed from track use, but we're talking about an annual fluid flush with $25 worth of fluid (if you use SuperBlue, or $50 if you use Motul 600). Like I mentioned, I regard that as very cheap insurance even on a street car worth thousands of dollars. I don't know what kind of emergency stop I might need it for.

[v4voodoo]

Originally Posted by Belarus

Sine you've been having mushy brake pedal with all of your cars (I'm assuming during your daily drive) after only slamming few times on the brakes (surprised you din't put that brake pedal through the floor... cough..cough) just use Castrol SRF - DOT 4 - 590ºF (310ºC) / 518ºF (270ºC), if that doesn't help, then you're SOL until a special brand comes out for your heavy brake pedal foot. While you're at it also upgrade to StopTech or Brembo GT at least 6 pitson front and 4 piston rear BBK.

BTW I'm interested how often you change your brake pads and rotors... hmmm every 10K miles...

I use Motul 600 and I'm very happy with it.
Only had the E92 for a little over a month, so I don't know how long the rotors and and pads will last. Last summer I wore a set of HP+ pads on the E36 in ~5 track days, half a dozen autocrosses and 6K miles of street driving. Now with it completely retired to track use it's getting Pagid Yellows and a brake cooling kit, we'll see how long those last.
Not sure how any of that is relevant, but you asked
And thanks for the specs anyway

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by v4voodoo

I use Motul 600 and I'm very happy with it.
Only had the E92 for a little over a month, so I don't know how long the rotors and and pads will last. Last summer I wore a set of HP+ pads on the E36 in ~5 track days, half a dozen autocrosses and 6K miles of street driving. Now with it completely retired to track use it's getting Pagid Yellows and a brake cooling kit, we'll see how long those last.
Not sure how any of that is relevant, but you asked

....After reading this post from you, I came to understanding your advise and reference is based on using a car to TRACK beside daily drive.... Based on that I think most of the OPs will agree with you to upgrade to a higher Dry Boiling/Wet Boiling of brake fluid (e.g. Motul RBF 600, ATE Super Blue or 200, Wilwood EXP600 Plus, Brembo LCF, Neo Super OR Castrol SRF for $70/bottle) vs using BMW OEM brake fluid. NOW what my posts were advising OP who ONLY uses his car for daily drive and the reasons why some one would upgrade to a higher Dry Boiling/Wet Boiling brake fluid....

So I have no clue the reason of your debate with TrackRat and me unless by being new OP you're trying to demonstrate your technical knowledge on this subject on this forum and/or increase your POST # score and/or having reading comprehensive challenges....

[v4voodoo]

Sorry, I care neither for demonstrating knowledge nor for post count (nor for starting a debate/argument).
I just don't advise people to save $20 on (a clearly inferior) brake fluid, that is all. You don't know when it'll come in handy (are you sure you're advising someone who will never go on a hot Sunday spirited drive?)

Oh and hey, let me demonstrate my superiority, they even let the noobs use it:

[Belarus]

Originally Posted by v4voodoo

Sorry, I care neither for demonstrating knowledge nor for post count (nor for starting a debate/argument).
I just don't advise people to save $20 on (a clearly inferior) brake fluid, that is all. You don't know when it'll come in handy (are you sure you're advising someone who will never go on a hot Sunday spirited drive?)

Oh and hey, let me demonstrate my superiority, they even let the noobs use it:

Happy to see you've got a good sense of humor

[v4voodoo]

It's all good man. Thanks again for the stats

[Blue Liquid]

Does anyone know how many bottles of Motul 600 it takes for a full flush on the 335i? I'm removing the stock brakes and doing a full BBK on all four corners. Thank you!