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To all the lighting/electrical whizes
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02-07-2010, 08:14 AM | #1 |
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To all the lighting/electrical whizes
I have a 07 tahoe and installed an HID kit, i'm still getting like a glittery effect. I would say its slight flickering. It doesn't strobe though or turn off. I installed a relay to get power from the battery, tried the capacitor trick, removed the DRL fuses, everything. I'm still getting the glitter effect. Is there anything else i can do? maybe try a resistor? Has anyone else have this problem? I even replaced the ballast, still nothing.
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02-07-2010, 07:30 PM | #2 | |
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didn't know BMW made Tahoes.....and Tahoes with an E9X model designation either...
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02-08-2010, 01:01 AM | #3 | |
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Lets not limit ourselves please, electrical is electrical... all cars have the same 12V battery.
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02-08-2010, 02:31 AM | #4 |
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no idea. good luck. you might want to check out the diy section and see if there is anything there on HID's
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02-08-2010, 11:21 AM | #5 |
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you have to check the bulb! it might be a defective bulb. just get it replaced! i have an eclipse and it happened to that car too! that should solve your problem
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02-08-2010, 12:00 PM | #6 |
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the other option you can try is to throw a 4700uf capacitor in there as well, that will help regulate small power fluctuations.
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02-08-2010, 09:11 PM | #8 |
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I am not a hater but PLEASE!!!!! Not another truck with HID conversion that blinds oncoming traffic right at eye level!!
If the light housings are not design for HID, DO NOT CONVERT THEM TO HID, expecially if your headlights are at other people's eye level. The optics for a halogen light is totally different from an HID light, doing HID conversion using halogen housing causes excessive high intensity light scattering to blind oncoming traffic and causes accidents at night. Please read this article from an automotive lighting expert: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html
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02-08-2010, 09:34 PM | #9 |
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sounds like the bulb has a shakey connection in the filatment or at the ground
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02-08-2010, 11:55 PM | #10 | |
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02-08-2010, 11:57 PM | #11 |
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Thanks for all the responses, so i've changed both bulbs, installed a capacitor to each bulbs and still nothing. I'm convinced that its the ballasts. I'm going to order some digital ballasts with inline ignitors. I will see if this does it.
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02-09-2010, 12:30 AM | #12 | |
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Regular lights blind sometimes anyways. Thats what I have dark tints for and a auto-dimming rear view mirror that all BMW's come with.
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02-09-2010, 10:40 AM | #13 |
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Not much so for the people that you are following, it is the ONCOMING TRAFFIC that is blinded by high intensity light that spills over to their lanes and hit people in their eye.
OEM HIDs have to pass strict federal standards for proper light patterns. Aftermarket conversion using halogen housing is the problem. They are designed to project proper light patterns for halogen bulbs that use filaments, not HID bulbs that use discharge capsules.
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02-09-2010, 11:35 AM | #14 |
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They may have to pass federal laws buy it's the same thing really. Have you ever been in front of an escalade? There hids blind because of the height of the car and those are OEM hids. Same thing goes for a range rover , when I drive my moms people are always flashing me with there high beams. It's mostly the height of the suv not OEM to aftermarket hids. Don't get me wrong I understand where you are coming from. Aftermarket hids scatter all over the place and are worst than factory hids. But they are both more or less the same.
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02-09-2010, 03:41 PM | #15 |
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FYI smart guy, i don't have halogen headlights, they are projectors, bosch to be exact. And they have been adjusted to not blind anyone.
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02-09-2010, 04:12 PM | #16 | |
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Projector refers to the style of light housing. Halogen refers to the type of bulb used inside. Not the same thing.
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02-09-2010, 10:30 PM | #17 | |
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![]() a resistor is just going to limit current/voltage, so you don't want that.. I'd take a volt meter in line with your lights and see if you see fluctuations. If you don't...then somethings up with your bulbs/sockets. If you do, you can try sticking a capacitor or resistor/capacitor combo in there. The RC forms sort of a timer, the resistor limits the ammount of voltage going into the cap, thus taking longer to charge up, but the cap will definately smooth out any incoming fluctuations. I'd start with the volt meter and go from there.
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02-10-2010, 11:18 AM | #18 | |
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Going back to the topic at hand, I have the DDM kit in my e90 with the slim digital ballast. I went out and swapped the ballast out, and vioala!! that solved the problem. I'm assuming that the ignitor inline with the digital ballast gives it a steady 12v current. The ones i have now are not pushing a clean 12v, it sort of fluctuates. Digital ballast are ordered and on the way here. I will update.
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02-10-2010, 11:21 AM | #19 | |
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I guess i'm kinda sensative or "defensive" as my wife say's. I tried the caps, i actually tried a slew of things before going out and buy new ballasts. I tried running the cap between the ballast and the factory plug, no love there.. then i tried the cap between the relay power to the ballast, still nothing.. the ballast are the problem, so lets see if the new digital ballast will solve the case. if not, then i guess i'll get some better lighting halogens. ![]()
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