[BOSSBEIMER]

I am trying to install one or 2 15 woofers in my e92 coupe. I am curious if anyone has pics of their 15's mounted in there e92 or if a single/double 15 would even fit ?

Second question because I wanna hookup the largest single class d amp I can without causing any electrical issues would be that our alternators are 180 amp ? So it would be smart to get an amp with 180 or smaller fuse rating correct?....

[VP Electricity]

I suggest more research before buying a Class D amp with a 180A fuse. I can't help because what you're doing isn't "music car", it's loud sensation in car, and I suck at that. But before you do anything, reading and searching will help you limit the effects of any mistakes. Good luck. You don't live near me, do you? I mean, I already have a WRX owner whose exhaust wakes up my kid...

[BOSSBEIMER]

Will 15's fit ?....any pictures....

So it would be smart to get an amp with 180 or smaller fuse rating correct?....

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

Will 15's fit ?....any pictures....

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=10

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

So it would be smart to get an amp with 180 or smaller fuse rating correct?....

If you still want some of the original electrical systems in the car to function, you should go a LOT smaller than 180 amp.

[BOSSBEIMER]

Nice that is exactly what i am looking for my e92 coupe, custom box or pre fab where did you get it done ? I am looking for an efficient amp that is over 1500wrms and lower than 180 amp

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

Nice that is exactly what i am looking for my e92 coupe, custom box or pre fab where did you get it done ? I am looking for an efficient amp that is over 1500wrms and lower than 180 amp

Ask TMR, I think he was even talking about selling his box.

[BOSSBEIMER]

who is tmr...? So was that a pre fabricated box or custom built ?

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

who is tmr...? So was that a pre fabricated box or custom built ?

Dude! You need to calm down and read the posts more carefully. TMR is the guy who posted the pictures of the ID 15s (which is linked in the thread above) and he said they were free air which means it had to have been custom. If you are not familiar with the term free air its is also known as an infinite baffle application. Essentially, there is no box. The woofers use the trunk space as a box. Its not as easy as it sounds to make it work correctly.

[TMR]

My box was completely custom built. I already am in the process of building another one for 2 IDQ 12's for the M3 but im almost sure i'll end up with the 15's again. I weighed the box with the subs and it was 54lbs which is not bad at all for 2 15's and box! You dont need anything more than 1000-1200 watts for a pair of 15's. Look into the Image Dynamics amps. I am using 2 of the larger Zapco amps and have had NO batt or electrical system issues.

If you are interested in buying the box setup like what i have PM me and i will tell you how much.

Also, if you do anything with SQ, stay away from digital amps.

[BOSSBEIMER]

DUDE i will try to "calm down" lol . I asked who tmr is because his screename is different. I do know what free air system is as I have competed in numerous classes with numerous cars in numerous sq and spl competitions. I want a fully sealed enclosure. I am looking for an amp that draws less than 180 and is class d and over 1500w rms

[oca123]

MTX TA7801 is advertised as 1200W but they are all overrated and mine came with a CEA cert card putting it at ~2000W @ 1ohm. I believe the fuses add up to 140 amps.

[BOSSBEIMER]

thats good information....anyone else know an amp like that ?

[kaigoss69]

So you used to compete but you need the help of this forum to find an amp that draws less than 180 amps at over 1500W? Seriously...ever heard of google?

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

DUDE i will try to "calm down" lol . I asked who tmr is because his screename is different. I do know what free air system is as I have competed in numerous classes with numerous cars in numerous sq and spl competitions. I want a fully sealed enclosure. I am looking for an amp that draws less than 180 and is class d and over 1500w rms

I would be looking for an amp with much lower current draw than 180A if you want your car to run. Also, if you are going to try to copy that free-air application, power handling is significatnly reduced in that application because the stability of the driver is dependent solely on the driver's suspension.

[BOSSBEIMER]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

So you used to compete but you need the help of this forum to find an amp that draws less than 180 amps at over 1500W? Seriously...ever heard of google?

Yes I have competed in numerous competitions but I do not own a stereo shop so I choose to come on this forum and ask people what Amps they have knowledge of that require less than 180a that they have had experience with instead of jumping on google for hours on end smart ass. I can tell that you have a lot of free time, honestly if you dont have any helpful information drop ur one cent of information somewhere else

[BOSSBEIMER]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

I would be looking for an amp with much lower current draw than 180A if you want your car to run. Also, if you are going to try to copy that free-air application, power handling is significatnly reduced in that application because the stability of the driver is dependent solely on the driver's suspension.

As I have said in previous posts I will be running a fully sealed enclosure. anyone else know of a quality amplifier that will draw less current than 160a over 1500w rms ?

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

As I have said in previous posts I will be running a fully sealed enclosure. anyone else know of a quality amplifier that will draw less current than 160a over 1500w rms ?

There are a lot out there. I used to run a 1500W class AB which required a 125A fuse. Can you give more specific information? How much power do you really need? What is it going to power? Budget? Your question is too general to make a meaningful suggestion.

IMO, I still think your current draw requirement is too high. With all the electronics in the car for various systems, I probably wouldn't even want to approach 120A.

[kaigoss69]

3 minutes on Crutchfield yielded the following list of mono amps with a minimum output of 1500W. Only one of them has a fuse rating below 160 amps.....can you find it?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...=01|57525001CP

Oh, I never competed so I am by no means an expert.

[kaigoss69]

This one didn't quite make the cut but the fuse rating looks great!

http://www.crutchfield.com/s_065GT23....html?tp=35757

[kaigoss69]

But I think you should really buy this one...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-NX3000.4.html

Fits the bill all around. 75 amps fuse rating at 1500W. One for each sub!!! Bending the laws of physics!

[vipervin]

Originally Posted by BOSSBEIMER

anyone else know of a quality amplifier that will draw less current than 160a over 1500w rms ?

You might want to do some research first for yourself because it honestly doesn't seem like you know what you are doing (even if you competed) by asking your question of 160a/1500w RMS. That is not how you select amplifiers.

Here is a starting point...

Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands.

Anyways, read up @ http://www.diymobileaudio.com/ and http://www.caraudio.com/ instead of this forum.

[kaigoss69]

This guy doesn't need to ne educated - he used to compete! He just needs help from the BMW SPL crowd to find the amp he spec'd. And forget about dividing the fuse rating by anything to adjust for music, I think we are talking about nothing but sine waves here.