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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > How To Re-Paint Chips?



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      04-26-2007, 09:47 AM   #1
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How To Re-Paint Chips?

So i have my first chip on the car from a truck in the left lane deciding to shoot one into my lane at a very moderate 100km/h highway driving ...

i just wanted to know if maybe someone here follows some special procedure when painting/fixing chips on their car ...

I usually tape around the chip area and then very slowly and with as little paint as possible touch the chipped area up, i have never applied the clear lacquer as im not too sure on how to really use this ...

How do you guys fix your chips up ?... btw like has been said before these new E9x BMW paintwork chips very easily ...
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      04-26-2007, 11:19 AM   #2
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S/B in the detailing section... I'd like to see a nice DIY on this too. There may be one, I've never searched for it.
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      04-26-2007, 11:39 AM   #3
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The very best would be if one could tape up everything around the chip very well, and then airbrushed the chip with the correct color.
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      04-26-2007, 11:40 AM   #4
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A little late, but congrats on the car

I havent seen one on the road here in JHB yet
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      04-26-2007, 11:43 AM   #5
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Something like this?

http://www.toolprice.com/product/133...FSMKGgod-xcocw
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      04-26-2007, 11:49 AM   #6
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You think BMW paint is bad, try an Audi.
Not bashing Audis because I love their cars too, but I must say the paint on my BMW is superior.
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      04-26-2007, 11:51 AM   #7
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I wrote this a long time ago; it works well, but I'd advise caution tanking sandpaper to your paint if you've never polished before.

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/...hlight=unigrit
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      04-26-2007, 12:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90Fleet View Post
A little late, but congrats on the car

I havent seen one on the road here in JHB yet
Neither have i ... besides my one, and I have driven around the fourways and Sandton areas quite often and expected to see one at least in these areas... but no ...

BTW: Here is the chip ... guess cause it the first one its kinda heartsore and when i passed the truck i saw the stone being tossed up and the car driving into it... ah well it happens ...

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      04-26-2007, 12:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus View Post
I wrote this a long time ago; it works well, but I'd advise caution tanking sandpaper to your paint if you've never polished before.

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/...hlight=unigrit
wow .. that came out awesome, but at the moment i am extremely scared to take a sander to the car ...
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      04-26-2007, 01:42 PM   #10
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      04-26-2007, 02:05 PM   #11
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You don't sand via machine, you sand via hand then polish via machine. But yes, if you're unfamiliar with polishing/wetsanding it should be avoided, just thought I'd offer it up as a solution. Good luck.
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      04-26-2007, 02:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus View Post
You don't sand via machine, you sand via hand then polish via machine. But yes, if you're unfamiliar with polishing/wetsanding it should be avoided, just thought I'd offer it up as a solution. Good luck.
no Thanks ... it is apprecited ... was really thinking of it ... if i were to follow this route, is it easy for a first time user of this method? ...
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      04-26-2007, 03:46 PM   #13
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I'm going to be trying picus's method on my car soon, as my car got keyed for the second time. I figure if it doesnt come out well I would have had to repaint anyway.
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      04-26-2007, 03:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamr View Post
no Thanks ... it is apprecited ... was really thinking of it ... if i were to follow this route, is it easy for a first time user of this method? ...
I don't know if I would say it's easy. It is hard to screw up if you're careful and patient. It isn't easy to get a perfect match the first time, but in almost all cases what you end up with will be better than what you started with. There are some things to keep in mind though; you will almost definitely need a machine to polish after sanding, you will need the right products (good, high grit sandpaper, good polishes, etc...), and there *IS* a danger of going through your clear whenever working on paint...

I'd try to touch it up carefully with a toothpick first, and see how it goes. If you're unhappy with the results you can think about sanding.
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      04-26-2007, 04:46 PM   #15
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I have a question for you, picus. As you know, a BMW touch up paint kit comes with base coat and clear coat. If one does a good job with applying the base coat, would you wet sand after the clear coat?
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      04-26-2007, 04:59 PM   #16
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Good question; generally the clear coat is only used if you have a problem matching the paint after the base coat. This is normally more likely with flat colors, like black and red. 90% of the time when I apply a touchup/sand/polish I use base coat only, and the scratch disappears when I am done, sort of like this:

http://****************/pics/s2000040507/a.html
http://****************/pics/s2000040507/b.html
http://****************/pics/s2000040507/c.html

However if I do sand and polish and notice I have a paint match problem I will lightly apply some clear then sand and polish again.

If I am *not* sanding/polishing I always apply a little clear last. Cheers.
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      04-26-2007, 11:27 PM   #17
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Picus, my car is jet black and I am currently waiting for my basecoat and clear to arrive from paintscratch.com, would I wet sand after the black and then apply clear? or wet sand after black and clear are applied? I'll be using unigrit 3000 paper along with 4 inch ccs orange and white 4"inch Porter Cable spot pads with Menzerna IP and FP2. Do you think this should be enough to remove the 3000 sanding marks? As a sanding lube I'll use quick detailer or ONR quick detailer mix, does this sound good?
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      04-27-2007, 02:25 AM   #18
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Thanks Picus ... I will try and touch up first. Think if i touch up and then rub the tocuh up part abit and then polish it, think that will work ?
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      04-27-2007, 07:13 AM   #19
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On flat black I'd add a little clear as the last touchup step, then sand.

IP on a 4" pad is way more than enough to remove 3k grit marks. Be careful when you first polish over the chip not to bear down on the spot too hard, or you might pop the paint out.

Remember, it's important to have the touchup totally flat before polishing. Lube the hell out of the spot and paper and make sure no little bits of paint get caught under it, when it's flat polish away, but like I said start on a slow speed and move the PC around a lot until you're sure the chip won't pop out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 328i View Post
Picus, my car is jet black and I am currently waiting for my basecoat and clear to arrive from paintscratch.com, would I wet sand after the black and then apply clear? or wet sand after black and clear are applied? I'll be using unigrit 3000 paper along with 4 inch ccs orange and white 4"inch Porter Cable spot pads with Menzerna IP and FP2. Do you think this should be enough to remove the 3000 sanding marks? As a sanding lube I'll use quick detailer or ONR quick detailer mix, does this sound good?
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      04-27-2007, 07:14 AM   #20
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It might, I've never tried that. Just make sure to let it dry fully before polishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adamr View Post
Thanks Picus ... I will try and touch up first. Think if i touch up and then rub the tocuh up part abit and then polish it, think that will work ?
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      04-27-2007, 10:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamr View Post
So i have my first chip on the car from a truck in the left lane deciding to shoot one into my lane at a very moderate 100km/h highway driving ...

i just wanted to know if maybe someone here follows some special procedure when painting/fixing chips on their car ...

I usually tape around the chip area and then very slowly and with as little paint as possible touch the chipped area up, i have never applied the clear lacquer as im not too sure on how to really use this ...

How do you guys fix your chips up ?... btw like has been said before these new E9x BMW paintwork chips very easily ...
Sorry to hear that.

It's time for a clear bra.
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      05-01-2007, 08:16 AM   #22
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can you see it .. i dont see it .. not photoshopped ... just with metallic paint i had to stir and stir and while stirring dip the match stick into the paint ... cause the paint quicly clumps up and looks darker ... suppose with an air gun the paint is spread out ... but just in the bottle its all clumped up ...




Even though you cant see it in the picture, it is not a 100% gone ... still is there is you look for it ...

I just used touch-up paint and a tooth pick ... thats it ... key was t make sure the paint was "aired" out before dipping my toothpick in the paint ...
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