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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Metal Amp Rack underneath Parcel Shelf



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      05-21-2012, 07:12 PM   #1
kaigoss69
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Metal Amp Rack underneath Parcel Shelf

I think I have given up on the idea of mounting my HD amps under the CD changer trim as there is not enough space due to OEM amp and I also don't like some of the controls being blocked off by the CD changer trim.

I curently have them mounted upside down underneath the rear parcel shelf and do like that location since it gives me easy access and does not take away much space.

I recently came across this install by mattex and I really like the idea of having a hanging amp rack where the amps can be mounted right side up and have a little bit of air above them to "breathe".



I also like the metal construction as it is thin & sleek looking, and I'm sure it will help absorb some heat from the amp bodies. Question is, does anyone have any experience with such an install and what material is best used, what thickness, and how to make the bends? Also, is there some sort of commercially available sheet metal with perforations, as it would allow a bit more airflow around the amps?

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      05-21-2012, 07:35 PM   #2
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Give me 2 more days and you will see wondrous install of your amps in the CD changer area with full control accessibility :-)
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      05-21-2012, 07:39 PM   #3
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But you don't have a L7 OEM amp underneath...
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      05-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #4
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I've done several similar to this in different types of cars. I usually use tube stock, though. I've never used sheet stock like that, but I like the way it looks. Very clean. As for heat, I'm not sure that it would do anything for dissipation, as it's not connected to the heat sink, nor did they use lithium grease to properly transfer the heat. I think that would be quite messy.

That's a really tidy install, though. I must give credit for that one, as long as it's properly attached to the car.
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      05-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
But you don't have a L7 OEM amp underneath...
Nope, I do have an MS-8 down there...YOU have space where I don't (under the center area, aft end of the trunk)....for MS-8...works out!

Delete L7 amp...even better!
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      05-21-2012, 07:49 PM   #6
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Thanks for the input, Jay.
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      05-21-2012, 07:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Nope, I do have an MS-8 down there...YOU have space where I don't (under the center area, aft end of the trunk)....for MS-8...works out!

Delete L7 amp...even better!
OK, let's see it!
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      05-21-2012, 07:54 PM   #8
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Why don't you do this, except put the MS-8 under the trunk floor, where his 3rd HD is.

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      05-21-2012, 07:57 PM   #9
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I will be adding something unique to mine though!
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      05-21-2012, 08:07 PM   #10
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Yeah I remember seeing that, hmmmm. I know I do not have enough height clearance in there with the L7 amp where it is (I measured it). And moving it (L7 amp) to the floor is fraught with danger.

The MS-8 is already in that spot now. I'm gonna wait for your install pics. Also curious about temps in that compartment on a hot summer day and after cranking the tunes for a little while.

Now that I look at that pic again I can't help wonder....why is the inline fuse 12" away from the amp and not the battery terminal???
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      05-21-2012, 08:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Yeah I remember seeing that, hmmmm. I know I do not have enough height clearance in there with the L7 amp where it is (I measured it). And moving it to the floor is fraught with danger.

The MS-8 is already in that spot now. I'm gonna wait for your install pics. Also curious about temps in that compartment on a hot summer day and after cranking the tunes for a little while.

Now that I look at that pic again I can't help wonder....why is the inline fuse 12" away from the amp and not the battery terminal???
Sadly my fuses are going to be on the amp side...I do have the benefit of the OEM distribution block fuses though, which I am going to use also.

For some reason XD amps want the fuses on the amp side, while HD want them on the battery side.
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      05-21-2012, 08:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Why don't you do this, except put the MS-8 under the trunk floor, where his 3rd HD is.

have you cleaned up the wiring since this pic?
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      05-21-2012, 08:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Sadly my fuses are going to be on the amp side...I do have the benefit of the OEM distribution block fuses though, which I am going to use also.

For some reason XD amps want the fuses on the amp side, while HD want them on the battery side.
All fuses should be within 12" of the battery. The closer, the better. Fuses are to protect the car, not the amp. If the amp blows a fuse it's already shot. MOSFETs will be damaged long before a fuse can protect it
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      05-21-2012, 08:15 PM   #14
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Thats not my pic.
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      05-21-2012, 08:16 PM   #15
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good...the wiring in that install is scary. The wire management looks like a high school kid did it.
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      05-21-2012, 08:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superjay View Post
good...the wiring in that install is scary. The wire management looks like a high school kid did it.
Please don't look at my old build thread!
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      05-21-2012, 08:24 PM   #17
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There is a reason why I have not shown any wiring pics here at all!
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      05-21-2012, 08:31 PM   #18
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LOL. If the wiring on an audio install doesn't look as good as, or better than, the factory wire then you're doing it wrong. If a BMW technician were to get into that car and see the wiring I am certain they would do their best to void some part of the electrical warranty. That install is dangerous. Nothing should ever rest on the fuses, power wire, signal wire, or connectors. Ever. All wire should be secured to the vehicle every 18", and secured to the bundle every 5". I will post some pics of a very basic 2 amp install in a cargo van later tonight to show what I mean.
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      05-22-2012, 10:17 AM   #19
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This is with the cover panel off, as I was finishing.

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      05-22-2012, 12:15 PM   #20
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This is my install. Ignore the wires as im in the middle of re-routing them and havent had time.

My first amp (JL450/4) I mounted directly to the underbody by using Riv nuts and then screwing into them with allen key bolts.

Then I purchsed the second Jl Amp which gave me just about enough room to mount it next to it. This was not planned so I was lucky.

With this one I actually made a 'H' bracket first then mounted the amp on top by drilling and tapping the corresponding amp holes. I mounted the bracket up first with Riv nuts, then Mounted the Amp to the bracket. I used some fuel pipe inbetween the 'H' bracket and the body so that I got a tight fit with no vibrations and could adjust the level of the bracket against the rubber

This took alot of time but I am well chuffed with the space saved and stealthyness of it.
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      05-22-2012, 12:34 PM   #21
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nice fit on the Slash. Looks decent with the heat sink facing out. Have you considered a cover panel for the forward portion to completely cover the wires? Little stuff makes a big difference.
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      05-22-2012, 12:40 PM   #22
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You can have neat install if you have luxury of space. Most of BMW owners want their car to look stock but sound better then stock, hence the complication.

I see E90 has plenty of space to put a few amp and dsp but check E60, despite being so big they have virtually no space you have space saver wheel. Fitting two items is a big challenge there, let alone wiring neatly.

I take the board in above picture is going in a truck/SUV, imagine fitting that in E9x/E6x.

I would have loved to pay slightly higher price if MS-8 provided 100w each channel with 150-200 in two channel in double its size. Just a dream.

Most challenging part of my audio retrofit has always been keeping it clean and I am nowhere near it. Even now I am struggling to fit MS-8 and kenwood amp in the boot and it is a nightmare.
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