[hayyim]

Hi all
So i just want to hear some ideas from the community about how get my tune working with out sinking unnecessary money into my car that works fine when stock.

I have a cobbAP tune that was working great at first when running sport, drive and aggressive stage 1 maps. Then I got DCI and catback. Now, not matter what map I use, i get the p30ff error. I had an indy shop check it out and they found the waste gates to be loose with the vac test. So they dont hold boost beyond stock levels. They can inspect and adjust for about 1100 bucks, but Id rather have BMWNA cover the adjustment/replacement.
Problem is, I cant get an error code on stock maps, so my SA said they cant do anything until there is a code thrown. Has anyone else dealt with this and are there any creative ways of getting BMW to look at the wastegates without revealing that its a tuned issue? Is there a sure fire way to get the car to throw the code without blowing it up ie; loosen a vac hose or something while parked and revving? I know Ill also have to set intake back to stock, which will make it even tougher to get the boost error.
The car is a 2007 with 63k on it, FWIW.

Thanks in advance.
Hayyim

[marv85]

Throwing the code is easy. you can loosen up the FMIC connections, or charge pipe to throttle body. you can remove the DV just to get that code... make sure you don't ingest something though...

My car started throwing that code a month ago. After going crazy trying to debug leaks, it turned out my Boost solenoids need replacing. If you know someone with an N54, swap him solenoids just to test the theory.

[._.]

Originally Posted by marv85

Throwing the code is easy. you can loosen up the FMIC connections, or charge pipe to throttle body. you can remove the DV just to get that code... make sure you don't ingest something though...

My car started throwing that code a month ago. After going crazy trying to debug leaks, it turned out my Boost solenoids need replacing. If you know someone with an N54, swap him solenoids just to test the theory.

+1 I re-installed my chargepipe, fmic, dv multiple times, replaced all vacuum hose and in the end it ended up being bad solenoids.

[BobS]

Might want to get a second opinion before you go to crazy...

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by marv85

Throwing the code is easy. you can loosen up the FMIC connections, or charge pipe to throttle body. you can remove the DV just to get that code... make sure you don't ingest something though...

My car started throwing that code a month ago. After going crazy trying to debug leaks, it turned out my Boost solenoids need replacing. If you know someone with an N54, swap him solenoids just to test the theory.

I like this idea.

Just pop off the c clip at the throttle body and throw an underboost code.

I believe it takes 3-4 seconds for for the DME to recognize underboost. Just floor it in 3rd from a low RPM, that should work.




***

To the OP, I dont know if your wastegates are exactly the problem just yet. Did the do a pressurized boost leak test? or just a smoke test with no pressure? I would definitely not go spending $1100 for them to try playing with your wastegates either, especially if you have a warranty.

James' usually has some pretty good info on diagnosing. He's the expert! I'm sure he will chime in.

[marv85]

Yup pretty easy...

[JamesM3M5]

If you try any of the tricks to get it to set a code, they will still want to drive it and verify.

Do you have the wastegate rattle? If you grab the rear WG shaft (engine COOL!), is there a lot of play? Will they cover new turbos under the extended 82k mile warranty? If so, then get that done! If not, adjusting worn out turbos will buy enough time for you to end up past the 82k limit, which means you pay for turbos on your dime when the time comes.

I'd try to fight for warranty turbo replacement from the dealer. If they don't make increased boost now, it will be a short time before they don't make stock boost.

Another trick - try boosting hard from say 1500-1800 RPM, stock tune, full throttle, high gear such as 4th or 5th. If the wastegates are shot, it will throw a 30FF code trying to make boost from a very low RPM under high load. If you can get it to do that, the dealer should definitely replace the turbos.

[hayyim]

Thanks guys, this all helps a ton.

Im going to take the advice to give good low rpm pull in a high gear. That was exactly
what caused the instant error with tune in. If that doesnt work, ill try the self inflicted leak approach. Do you guys think they'll say anything about a catback?

the test they preformed was a vacuum test. he applied like 20psi of vacuum and the
wast gate still didn't close all the way. lots of play when wiggling the adjustment rod by hand. Does that mean I qualify for at least an inspection by the dealer? If im really insistent? I wasnt sure if that looseness meant there was something truly "wrong" with the turbos or if it was just a sign of wear. If it means something is "wrong", Ill use that as my "in" for service I guess.

Also, slightly off topic. For you guys with lots of mods, how often do you find yourself sweating this kind of stuff? If you dont work on cars, do you just need to be ready to drop a little more cash now and then to restore to stock for dealer assistance?
thanks again all!
h

[JamesM3M5]

The WGs need to be closed at 5.9 inches of mercury (inHg) vacuum, or 200 kiloPascals (kPa). Sloppy WGs should still close at 7inHg or so.

If you can show the dealer that the WGs don't shut anywhere close to that spec, AND the WG shaft on the rear turbo is fairly loose/sloppy, that should definitely qualify for turbo replacement under the 82k mile extended warranty. I say rear turbo because you can easily grab it with your hand and feel the play, while the front is buried against the engine. Make sure the engine is COLD, though, or you will end up with severe burns! Those turbos stay hot for a very long time after shutdown.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by marv85

Throwing the code is easy. you can loosen up the FMIC connections, or charge pipe to throttle body. you can remove the DV just to get that code... make sure you don't ingest something though...

My car started throwing that code a month ago. After going crazy trying to debug leaks, it turned out my Boost solenoids need replacing. If you know someone with an N54, swap him solenoids just to test the theory.

I like your thinking,

Anyway to get a misfire with out a tune and get the dealer to pay for SP and Coils? LOL

Sorry off topic.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

The WGs need to be closed at 5.9 inches of mercury (inHg) vacuum, or 200 kiloPascals (kPa). Sloppy WGs should still close at 7inHg or so.

If you can show the dealer that the WGs don't shut anywhere close to that spec, AND the WG shaft on the rear turbo is fairly loose/sloppy, that should definitely qualify for turbo replacement under the 82k mile extended warranty. I say rear turbo because you can easily grab it with your hand and feel the play, while the front is buried against the engine. Make sure the engine is COLD, though, or you will end up with severe burns! Those turbos stay hot for a very long time after shutdown.

Nice post!