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Rear tyres need replacing - run flats or not???
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12-17-2012, 03:23 AM | #1 |
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Rear tyres need replacing - run flats or not???
I know this question has been covered a million times but im still unsure.
My rears need replacing and soon. I know a lot of you here have said that non run flats lead to better handling, less wheel spin pulling away etc and they are cheaper of course. The thing is, i'd obviously have to carry around tyre weld / mobility kit and just dread the thought of having to use it at the side of a motorway in the wind and rain. I know it might never happen but if it does, how easy are those things to use and do they always work? I guess my main question is run flats or non run flats? I'd just like a few more opinions. Also, it would mean id have run flats on the front and nons on the back. Would that be a problem? If I do go for non run flats, which are best? Thanks in advance! |
12-17-2012, 03:34 AM | #2 |
Ben
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Their are limits with run flats too like a max of 50 miles and 50mph, tyreweld gives similar limits I believe. Run flats are no good with rips or blow outs either.
Not used my tyreweld yet but it fills the tyre by squirting the liquid foam into the valve, you will need a compressor too to re-inflate the tyre. The manufacturer provided stuff has had poor reviews in the past, the liquid stuff you mix, I think holts is different. Holts gets good reviews. Conti 5p tyres are the best. Many like falken 452s for a cheaper alternative. Don't mix non run flats with run flats. They behave differently, different levels of side wall stability, grip, break points and temperatures fronm the different rubber compounds. You may find mixing leads to unpredictable results such as under steer/oversteer as you load the tyres. Last edited by briers; 12-17-2012 at 03:49 AM.. |
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12-17-2012, 03:44 AM | #3 |
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If you are thinking about non run flats then you should probably speak to your insurance company first as some can be a bit picky about you swapping out.
I'm a non run flats person. I just feel that the ride isn't as harsh and also found that tramlining was pretty much cut out once the run flats were off. I carry a couple of cans of tyre weld and a pump in the boot. I've never had to use tyre weld on a car but I have on a motorbike and it worked great with that. I rode it for about a month before getting the tyre changed!!! I wouldn't do that now though. Also as far as I'm aware run flats are a safety feature so you can't carry on driving as normal, they just allow you to either pull over in a more controlled manner or drive a few slow miles to get a replacement. I might be wrong though and I'm sure others will tell you if I am. As for which tyres, Vredesteins always seem to get great reviews and are a reasonable price too. I went for the Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 2 and I'm happy with them. I personally wouldn't mix and match run flats and regulars but that's just me and I don't know if there's any science involved in that!! |
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12-17-2012, 05:36 AM | #4 |
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If you must have RFT (which seems like you do) then I suggest to investigate the difference by brand.
From what I read in last few years, spectrum of price and comfort looks smth like this: Michelin RFT (almost like non-RFT) >> Pirelli RFT >> Dunlop etc runflats >> Bridgestone RFT (crap). SO if money is not an option (I believe when buying tyres you should buy the best you can afford) - then Michelin RFT are the way to go. If budget is in place - don't get Bridgestones based on lots of crap reviews of them. PS. Space saver from 5er, deflated tyre, jack, compressor. That's all you need for an alternative that takes up virtually no space in trunk and gives you a piece of mind. Do quick match - you pay what, 60 EUR per tyre extra for RFT, so at 240 EUR you can find a space saver and jack may be and compressor? I dunno. Worth a look. That way you get the security plus you get better ride etc. Kinda win win in my book. That's what I had and I can keep the set up for new cars too, while expensive RFT are worn out. Plus you can't repair a RFT...
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F30.F11.E86.E90.E90.E36 Last edited by Tallest; 12-17-2012 at 05:43 AM.. |
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12-17-2012, 06:39 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for those answers. Very helpful.
Just called around. Cheapest I have found so far is Elite tyres in Rainham, Essex. Always used them when I had my s2000. Thing is only run flats showing are the Bridgestone potenzas. £172.80 fitted. On Black circles they come up at £211 fitted. Obviously I can get non run flats cheaper but its x4 rather than x2. I dont mind spending the extra if its going to make that much of a difference. How much are the tyre weld kits btw? |
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12-17-2012, 06:45 AM | #6 |
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Right, just called and prices up for all 4 tyres in non run flat.
Continentals and Goodyears both £510 fitted Vredesteins £500 fitted. Opinions please? |
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12-17-2012, 07:56 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I rate the Vredesteins,but as the other two brands are perceived as a more premium price tyre,the consensus will go with the Conti's.
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12-17-2012, 08:04 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I've heard a lot of good things about the Vreds as well as the other 2. Did read a couple of people saying the conti's were quite soft tho and more of a summer tyre? |
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12-17-2012, 11:31 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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12-17-2012, 11:36 AM | #10 |
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BMW one comes in a bag and is fitted like this.
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12-17-2012, 11:37 AM | #11 |
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12-17-2012, 01:10 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
http://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/opt...are_wheel_kits
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12-17-2012, 01:27 PM | #14 |
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just changed mine to non-RTF Hancock Ventus V12...So far i'm contented..just my personal opinion.
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12-17-2012, 01:28 PM | #15 |
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I ran run flat rears and non run flat fronts for about 4 months. The car felt fine at all speeds and handling conditions. I've just swapped the rears to non run flats.
I'm not saying its ok to do it but I didn't have any issues. |
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