[kavadarci]

Hi,
As many others, my car has the dreaded waste gate rattles,
I bought it like that because I didn't know any better.
No warranty.

It makes the car sound like garbage, there is no other way of saying it.

My question is:

* Has anyone done DIY of removing the turbos and fixing the rattle permanently?

I'm also open to any other suggestion.
I have another car to drive so I can work on the bmw for an extended period of time.

Thank you.

[007_e350]

Do you get a code ? A vaccum leak can cause this too - there's DIY on it
If its not vaccum related, and u're under 82k, you've a pretty good shot at BMW replacing ur turbos under turbo extended warranty

[maxwell600]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

Do you get a code ? A vaccum leak can cause this too - there's DIY on it
If its not vaccum related, and u're under 82k, you've a pretty good shot at BMW replacing ur turbos under turbo extended warranty

I disagree. I went to my dealer and they did a vacuum tests on both wastegates and found that they seal properly, hence no replacement.

[kavadarci]

I am in Canada, so the recall in the US is not valid in Canada.
I HAVE ASKED.
Same car same issue, we just get shafted because we like it a lot.

No vacuum leaks, all the lines have been checked.
I tried the vacuum adjustment on the rear turbo but the sound is more pronounced from the front and i just can't get to the front.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

I am in Canada, so the recall in the US is not valid in Canada.
I HAVE ASKED.
Same car same issue, we just get shafted because we like it a lot.

No vacuum leaks, all the lines have been checked.
I tried the vacuum adjustment on the rear turbo but the sound is more pronounced from the front and i just can't get to the front.

there's a DIY posted here, sometimes the WG actuator rod gets loose, after closing WG u need to tighten the bolt just a bit more - ITS A PAIN TO DO THE FRONT

Here's the DIY:
( Originally Posted by Vroom
If there is an approved procedure, I don't know about it. See post #52. I pull vaccum to fully move the actuator and adjust rod to fully close WG and add another 1/2 turn for good measure.
Worked for me to...I just made sure the wastegates where closed at 5.9 Hg" and gave 1/4 turn after that.....this tutorial is spot on, I have it booked marked lol!!)

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by maxwell600

I disagree. I went to my dealer and they did a vacuum tests on both wastegates and found that they seal properly, hence no replacement.

If u still rattle they need to replace it, and u gotta place cat and mouse with them before they do it, v few dealerships do it without giving hassle what I hear

[TexE90]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

I am in Canada, so the recall in the US is not valid in Canada.
I HAVE ASKED.
Same car same issue, we just get shafted because we like it a lot.

No vacuum leaks, all the lines have been checked.
I tried the vacuum adjustment on the rear turbo but the sound is more pronounced from the front and i just can't get to the front.

You have to drop the subframe to get to the front turbo rod. Honestly, at that point, you should just replace both turbos.

I've seen a couple people here DIY. Feedback was that it's a TON of work but it's all fairly straightforward assuming you have the tools (engine lift, for example). Just takes a long long long time and tons of places where you could forget something.

Edit: Are you throwing a 30FF code? If not, leave it all alone. You may have a rattle, but your wastegates are still sealing so no need to go and mess with them yet.

Do you have one of the tunes so you can post some data logs?

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

there's a DIY posted here, sometimes the WG actuator rod gets loose, after closing WG u need to tighten the bolt just a bit more - ITS A PAIN TO DO THE FRONT

Here's the DIY:
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

Thank you.
I did for the rear but again the noise on mine is from the front.
you say it's pain to do the front, I think it's not possible at all.
Can you let me know how to get to the front to try the adjustment?

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by TexE90

You have to drop the subframe to get to the front turbo rod. Honestly, at that point, you should just replace both turbos.

I've seen a couple people here DIY. Feedback was that it's a TON of work but it's all fairly straightforward assuming you have the tools (engine lift, for example). Just takes a long long long time and tons of places where you could forget something.

Edit: Are you throwing a 30FF code? If not, leave it all alone. You may have a rattle, but your wastegates are still sealing so no need to go and mess with them yet.

Do you have one of the tunes so you can post some data logs?

I have no errors and no tunes,
Just one nasty annoying rattle that I'm trying to get rid off.
I can't drive the car with the windows down, it is so pronounced.
I have the mid resonator removed so the engine noise is pronounced but the rattle is louder than that, :-(

[USAF Rick]

I just had mine replaced last week at 81.5k miles at the dealership, I got lucky with that one haha. Another suggestion is taking it to a shop to have them reprogram your software?

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

I have no errors and no tunes,
Just one nasty annoying rattle that I'm trying to get rid off.
I can't drive the car with the windows down, it is so pronounced.
I have the mid resonator removed so the engine noise is pronounced but the rattle is louder than that, :-(

WG rattel should only be heard when u lift the foot off the pedal, can u post a video ? Also check if the vaccum line is connected to the front actuator (when the car is cool) .. It is do-able but if u have that many pieces taken out might as well put in a new turbo, tomkinson sells for $554 a piece if u return ur old

[kavadarci]

The rattle noise is heard when i lift the foot of the gas but can also be heard when idling on cold start.

I will post a video and check for front vacuum line.

Thank you.

[Brett335i]

How many miles on your car? If its less than 82k....take it to the dealership. They will replace the turbos under the extended turbo warranty.

[TexE90]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

I have no errors and no tunes,
Just one nasty annoying rattle that I'm trying to get rid off.
I can't drive the car with the windows down, it is so pronounced.
I have the mid resonator removed so the engine noise is pronounced but the rattle is louder than that, :-(

That doesn't sound like a wastegate rattle. The WG's rattle when they are close to being closed and the gate is hitting the actual turbo body. When you are just cruising and the turbos aren't building pressure, the WG is far enough away from the turbo body that it won't rattle.

When you start the car, listen carefully to your engine. You should hear one small rattle that goes away followed by another that goes away. This is the sound of the rear then the front (or vis versa, I forget) WG's closing. If that rattle doesn't go away, you have a case for WG rattle.

Another check is what 007_e350 mentioned. With your car in park (or neutral), rev your engine to 4-5k and let off the gas. If you hear a rattle all the way down the RPM range back to 1.5k, you have WG rattle.

Youtube of this sound:

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

Thank you.
I did for the rear but again the noise on mine is from the front.
you say it's pain to do the front, I think it's not possible at all.
Can you let me know how to get to the front to try the adjustment?

Here :: Dont give up dude worth a shot!
--------
The front was a real challenge. Had to remove the c-clip (that's on the WG arm pin) to pull off the adjusting rod end. Removing the rod end was tricky because you have to move the actuator to a spot where there is just enough clearance between the turbo & engine to remove the rod end. Once the rod end is off the WG arm, you can lower it to get a wrench on the adjusting nut. Shorten rod, reinstall rod end on WG arm, check, repeat till you are happy with it or till your fingers won't stop cramping.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

The rattle noise is heard when i lift the foot of the gas but can also be heard when idling on cold start.

I will post a video and check for front vacuum line.

Thank you.

just out of curiosity, is ur front turbo inlet hose all the way in .. u'll be surprized there are no clamps on that thing ... my turbo was hissing way too loud and turned out my rear turbo inlet hose was half way out, its really a crappy design, I had to pull of the downpipes and put a clamp there not sure if its helping but its better than before

[kenmasters]

1. Out of curiosity.. can you replace/fix Waste Gates, if its just the waste gate VS replacing the entire turbo?

2. How can you diagnosis if just by tightening the actuator arm will it reduce the noise? Some mechanics seem to know just by looking...

-K

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

Here :: Dont give up dude worth a shot!
--------
The front was a real challenge. Had to remove the c-clip (that's on the WG arm pin) to pull off the adjusting rod end. Removing the rod end was tricky because you have to move the actuator to a spot where there is just enough clearance between the turbo & engine to remove the rod end. Once the rod end is off the WG arm, you can lower it to get a wrench on the adjusting nut. Shorten rod, reinstall rod end on WG arm, check, repeat till you are happy with it or till your fingers won't stop cramping.

I really don't see how to get there, I will investigate further.
Yes, the rattles starts when I turn on the engine and then rattles all the way down as the rpms go down.
I have no doubts it is the waste gate\s just have to check for the few things you have mentioned.

Will post video tonight.
Thank you.

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by Brett335i

How many miles on your car? If its less than 82k....take it to the dealership. They will replace the turbos under the extended turbo warranty.

119.000 km and the US extended warranty doesn't apply in Canada.

[kenmasters]

I have a CDN 335 too and I have the same/similar problem. It rattles on startup, but it becomes less annoying once the actuator arm closes the waste gate.. This usually takes 1-2mins on startup. Afterwards, it's less noticable during low rpms.

Dealership and independent mechanic told me I needed new turbos. But until they blow up ~ white smoke, I should be fine.

Where are you located? I would take it to an independent shop to provide a proper diagnosis. Everyone here is just guessing. I've been researching for quite some time now, and I was willing to try certain hacks to fix it...

Some band-aid fixes..

1. MR5 rattle fix. Tightening/loosening the actuator arm.

2. Spring fix.

3. JB4 wastegate fix. More expensive, but may be ok if you plan on tuning it anyways.

4. Dealership sw 29. They have a fix for the rattle, but people experience lower performance/turbo lag afterwards.

None of these fixes are guaranteed to fix the problem; thosewho tried experienced reduced noise, but it doesn't always go away. The waste gate design is flawed. Some folks have installed brand new turbos and the rattle is still present.

I bought my 335 used and I knew of the problems. I negotiated the price down accordingly so that was the fix for me.

Good luck,
K

[TexE90]

Originally Posted by kenmasters

1. Out of curiosity.. can you replace/fix Waste Gates, if its just the waste gate VS replacing the entire turbo?

2. How can you diagnosis if just by tightening the actuator arm will it reduce the noise? Some mechanics seem to know just by looking...

-K

I don't think you can just replace the wastegate and even if you could, you have to take the turbos off the car to even look at the wastegate. At that point, just replace the whole turbo.

[nsx_modified]

Reviving an old thread...

I'm actually getting my turbo's replaced at the moment RIGHT NOW. Just called a call from Serpa, as they are working on the car now.

Complained wastegates rattled. No check engine lights or anything. They determined waste gate problem and there will be replacing it under CPO -$50 deductible.