[LAE92]

As I am going FBO PTF e40 protune, as well as upgrading my brakes, I would like to improve my suspension a bit. I already purchased 19" 220m wheels so I will be getting those mounted and balanced too. I am switching to 220ms because they are lightweight, and forged. I am coming from m6 reps and hate how fragile those wheels are. The easiest and cheapest way to get to 19" forged wheels was for me to buy 220m's. I am getting the fenders pulled/ shaved to account for the offsets. I was thinking about installing m3 front upper and lower control arms to help my turn in, plus a for corner alignment to get everything synced up and to get the power onto the road and get the steering dialed in.

Do you guys think I should also up the rear toe links to m3 links? Will I feel the difference? I don't want to get an LSD because it is too much money, and worry the m3 subframe bushings will cause the chassis to translate too much from the rear. Thanks for the input!

[The HACK]

1. What does this have to do with Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques?

2. Once you figure out what this has to do with Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques, then it'll be much easier to figure out what you need to do.

[LAE92]

Autocross, I do not drag at all. I am also going to enroll at willow springs for driving classes.

[will.c]

Originally Posted by The HACK

1. What does this have to do with Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques?

2. Once you figure out what this has to do with Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques, then it'll be much easier to figure out what you need to do.

lol.. rough day Hack?

Originally Posted by LAE92

Autocross, I do not drag at all. I am also going to enroll at willow springs for driving classes.

Honestly, those (or any other mods, for that matter) probably won't make any difference for you - at least not for now. Just attend one of those events, and you'll very quickly realize that either:
1) None of those are what you need, and you just need to practice a LOT more before you can even comfortably push your car as is; or
2) Something very particular is CLEARLY recognizable even to you that it needs to be improved - most likely brakes and/or tires.

If you hit #2 above, upgrade that item only. Then you go out again to find out what is limiting you next, and upgrade THAT. Then --- oh, this step is very VERY crucial in terms of your pursuit of happiness --- prepare to say good bye to any sort of financial savings or freedom for the rest of your life; you will be in the deep end in no time.

[CPWINCH]

Originally Posted by will.c

lol.. rough day Hack?



Honestly, those (or any other mods, for that matter) probably won't make any difference for you - at least not for now. Just attend one of those events, and you'll very quickly realize that either:
1) None of those are what you need, and you just need to practice a LOT more before you can even comfortably push your car as is; or
2) Something very particular is CLEARLY recognizable even to you that it needs to be improved - most likely brakes and/or tires.

If you hit #2 above, upgrade that item only. Then you go out again to find out what is limiting you next, and upgrade THAT. On and on and on.

+100
I dont mod my cars until I have at least 1 track day on them stock. And if you never have tracked before, mods are absolutely useless (maybe not absolutely) but figure out correct form. Learn the lines of the track and start modding when you reach a limitation in your car.

[LAE92]

CPwinch, While i know a lot of people subscribe to this theory on this sub forum, but I am like the other 95% of the e90post members where having the car's extra performance for the occasional brisk drive is nice. However, I am not 19 anymore so I wanted to get the most out of the driving experience with my car while not jeopardizing my own safety nor the safety of others around me. the Hack was right, I should have clarified my purposes for even proposing the upgrade. I just figured since the toe links are pretty cheap and I am going to install the front control arms, I might as well get in the rear and add the toe links too. MY driving skills are far from needing them, so I will omit the upgrade until my skills get to that level. Thanks for the feedback!

[Mavus]

Originally Posted by LAE92

As I am going FBO PTF e40 protune, as well as upgrading my brakes, I would like to improve my suspension a bit. I already purchased 19" 220m wheels so I will be getting those mounted and balanced too. I am switching to 220ms because they are lightweight, and forged. I am coming from m6 reps and hate how fragile those wheels are. The easiest and cheapest way to get to 19" forged wheels was for me to buy 220m's. I am getting the fenders pulled/ shaved to account for the offsets. I was thinking about installing m3 front upper and lower control arms to help my turn in, plus a for corner alignment to get everything synced up and to get the power onto the road and get the steering dialed in.

Do you guys think I should also up the rear toe links to m3 links? Will I feel the difference? I don't want to get an LSD because it is too much money, and worry the m3 subframe bushings will cause the chassis to translate too much from the rear. Thanks for the input!

DSC/DTC off + LSD + tires + driver mod = power on the ground

You can add suspension once you decide what is your intent and budget.

GL

[LAE92]

Thanks for all of the feedback!

[EJ_3]

Originally Posted by LAE92

Autocross, I do not drag at all. I am also going to enroll at willow springs for driving classes.

Let me know when you head to Willow. Might join you.

[whyzee125]

I found the M3 front control arms to be a worthwhile upgrade but it's not really night and day. If my stockers had been in good shape I wouldn't have done it. Honestly, an LSD is an excellent upgrade for these cars and well worth the money if you're looking to take it to the next level.

[shirtpants_]

Changing the Rear shock mounts to monroe ones is like 20 bucks, and greatly decreases the wallowing feeling from the rear. The stock RSM is literally foam.
Changing out the subframe bushings makes the rear feel much more solid as well. No additional NVH from the RSFB's that I can tell, and I have solids. That's around 3-400 if you can DIY. It's cheaper and easier to DIY if you go with the subframe inserts, but I have no idea how effective they are vs a full bushing.
The m3's rear toe arm's wont fit our non-M's. You have to go aftermarket like the ones from RE HPA Bimmerworld, or Fall line. most are around 250 or 300 bucks. You also want to replace the eccentric bolts on the toe arms if you do this.
Pulling the alignment pins in the front is a good way to get an extra half degree or so of free negative camber. although you'll need an alignment afterwards.
Depending on whether your cars a AT or MT and the build date, the LSD upgrade might be more attainable than you thought, if your ring gear is bolted not welded.