[runwild]

So I decided to replace my vanos solenoids on my 2007 328xi coupe.
Car didn't show any check engine lights but from driving, I noticed a bunch of odd symptoms. My cold starts seemed somewhat rough, very rough idle upon start up, car would shake, and the car seemed to be lacking power when driving. When accelerating after a stop, the car would kind of hesitate when in the 1,800-2,000 rpm range. It seemed to not respond quickly enough when accelerating in the low rpm range.

So I figured what the hell, let me change the vanos solenoids, see what happens. I was thinking it could be either the vanos or maybe my spark plugs and coils were the problem. But changing plugs and coils at 36k miles didn't seem necessary.

So after I changed the vanos solenoids, the car seems to be driving incredible. That hesitation at the 2,000 rpm range is gone. The acceleration seems to be much better. Also, the cold start immediately after the install was almost perfect, didn't notice any shaking and fluctuating rpms. The car didn't shake not even the slightest bit. I made sure to do the vanos replacement first thing in the morning before I started the car up, just so I could see how it started with the new solenoids.

So after I replaced the vanos, I noticed one of the two old solenoids looked discolored on the top. I took some pictures, someone with knowledge of the vanos solenoids chime in and let me know what you think after looking at the old solenoid.
I'm posting pictures of both the old solenoids, just so you can see the difference.

[Efthreeoh]

You can clean and swap positions with them and save the $200 on replacement costs.

[runwild]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

You can clean and swap positions with them and save the $200 on replacement costs.

I didn't want to waste time cleaning them, the cars a 2007 it's over 6 years old already, I figured what the hell just put new ones in for $200.

[nate5ks]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

You can clean and swap positions with them and save the $200 on replacement costs.

Did you clean them using the compressed air method? Did you notice improvement after doing this? I am having some of the same symptoms as op and I either want to clean or replace mine.

[Bishopbiz]

My vanos intake is jammed inside the engine any info on this?? I change both solenoids. After a week same problem and they said it is the vanos inside the engine

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by nate5ks

Did you clean them using the compressed air method? Did you notice improvement after doing this? I am having some of the same symptoms as op and I either want to clean or replace mine.

I cleaned mine with CRC Electro cleaner and compressed air, then swapped places of them. It cleared the codes and made the car run better. Also there are filters for each solenoid in the head that can get clogged and may cause drivability problems.

[Three_thirty_I]

Usually the exhaust side gets dirtier than the intake side, so this might be why there is a difference in colour. I cleaned both Vanos solenoids by just soaking the ends (one at a time) in some unleaded petrol and then once dry, dipped them in some fresh engine oil before returning. I didn't swap them around though but did notice an improvement afterwards! That was last year, so might do it again soon and try swapping them around this time.

[UncleWede]

I wish mine were that easy. I had them replaced because I had the p0015 error codes. Drove fine for about 500 miles, now it's back. The Indy doesn't know what else to do. When I had it in to the dealer, they can't find the error. . .

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

I wish mine were that easy. I had them replaced because I had the p0015 error codes. Drove fine for about 500 miles, now it's back. The Indy doesn't know what else to do. When I had it in to the dealer, they can't find the error. . .

When last was the oil and filter changed? These solenoids seem to be somewhat critical on oil condition and flow... But 500 miles is crazy for things to deteriorate!

[GoRomeo]

I cleaned and swapped mine about a year ago just as preventive maintenance. I did not have any issues prior so its hard to notice the differnce. All is smooth and acceleration is good as before. I wonder what the diffence would be with a new set. I rather spend 200.00 in new coils instead if its not going to make any difference.

Runwild thanks for sharing your story and pics...

[runwild]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I cleaned and swapped mine about a year ago just as preventive maintenance. I did not have any issues prior so its hard to notice the differnce. All is smooth and acceleration is good as before. I wonder what the diffence would be with a new set. I rather spend 200.00 in new coils instead if its not going to make any difference.

Runwild thanks for sharing your story and pics...

Anytime! I actually found out that the original vanos solenoids on e90/92s were problematic and BMW made a new solenoid. Not sure if it's that much better, but according to tischer, they made an improvement on the part. They stopped producing the original vanos solenoids on 07/2008. So anyone with a car that has a production date prior to 07/2008 take a peak under the hood and try to see what part number you have. The original part number I had on my car was stamped 11367516293, and the new solenoid part number is 11367585425. You can even reference this yourself if you look up your car on realoem.com .
I did a fair share of research before ordering and replacing the solenoids. So rather than cleaning them, check out what part number your car has. You might be better off replacing them, especially if you have the old part that was discontinued.
Between the vanos replacement and switching to german castrol 0w-30 oil, I feel like I'm driving a brand new car! It's like I'm in love all over again lol

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I cleaned and swapped mine about a year ago just as preventive maintenance. I did not have any issues prior so its hard to notice the differnce. All is smooth and acceleration is good as before. I wonder what the diffence would be with a new set. I rather spend 200.00 in new coils instead if its not going to make any difference.

Runwild thanks for sharing your story and pics...

Yep, my car still has the original first generation coils, so I reckon I would be more inclined to replace those at some point. Maybe later on I will think about replacing the solenoids...

[UncleWede]

Mine is a first year model (4/05 production, IIRC). With the Indy we did the multiple oil changes as well as a really strong oil clensing additive we would put in a day or two before the oil change and drive for 50 miles.

I'm worried that my car will need to be smogged this next May, and I'm going to have to decide if I am getting a new 328d or spending the money on a new vanos ;( Is it still cold in Germany in May?

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by runwild

Anytime! I actually found out that the original vanos solenoids on e90/92s were problematic and BMW made a new solenoid. Not sure if it's that much better, but according to tischer, they made an improvement on the part. They stopped producing the original vanos solenoids on 07/2008. So anyone with a car that has a production date prior to 07/2008 take a peak under the hood and try to see what part number you have. The original part number I had on my car was stamped 11367516293, and the new solenoid part number is 11367585425. You can even reference this yourself if you look up your car on realoem.com .
I did a fair share of research before ordering and replacing the solenoids. So rather than cleaning them, check out what part number your car has. You might be better off replacing them, especially if you have the old part that was discontinued.
Between the vanos replacement and switching to german castrol 0w-30 oil, I feel like I'm driving a brand new car! It's like I'm in love all over again lol

Cool bro...thanks for this info. I did not know this. I will get a new set along new with coils, but first I need to fix my VCG since is leaking.

So far this is what im planning to spend the below based on prices quoted:

VCG part with new bolts: $70.00
Labor: $100.00 since I have my buddy who is a BMW tech.
coils: 186.00 Bosch
Vanos Solenoids: I guess they are $100 a piece? Correct me if I am wrong. I have not checked prices on these yet.

Total: 556.00

Next big project I guess will be the water pump as preventive maintenance...before is too late...

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Cool bro...thanks for this info. I did not know this. I will get a new set along new with coils, but first I need to fix my VCG since is leaking.

So far this is what im planning to spend the below based on prices quoted:

VCG part with new bolts: $70.00
Labor: $100.00 since I have my buddy who is a BMW tech.
coils: 186.00 Bosch
Vanos Solenoids: I guess they are $100 a piece? Correct me if I am wrong. I have not checked prices on these yet.

Total: 556.00

Next big project I guess will be the water pump as preventive maintenance...before is too late...

May as well throw in a new thermostat when you do the water pump...

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

May as well throw in a new thermostat when you do the water pump...

Yeah for sure. I am planning to do so. Actually my thersmotat is stuck open since last year..., but have no issues at all, its just takes longer for engine to get normal temps but thanks for reminding me...

[runwild]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Cool bro...thanks for this info. I did not know this. I will get a new set along new with coils, but first I need to fix my VCG since is leaking.

So far this is what im planning to spend the below based on prices quoted:

VCG part with new bolts: $70.00
Labor: $100.00 since I have my buddy who is a BMW tech.
coils: 186.00 Bosch
Vanos Solenoids: I guess they are $100 a piece? Correct me if I am wrong. I have not checked prices on these yet.

Total: 556.00

Next big project I guess will be the water pump as preventive maintenance...before is too late...

No problem! It's always good to keep on top of the maintenance, you won't regret it later. I'm trying to do as much preventative maintenance as i can, step by step. It all pays off in the long run. The coils and plugs are going to be my next job. I'll prob end up doing it myself, doesn't seem very difficult when you have the right tools, and the e90/92 Bentley repair manual to refer to! But not for nothing, it must be nice to have a friend who's a BMW tech!

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Yeah for sure. I am planning to do so. Actually my thersmotat is stuck open since last year..., but have no issues at all, its just takes longer for engine to get normal temps but thanks for reminding me...

What does yours show in the hidden menu for the typical temperature range? Mine sits between 79 and 84 degrees Celsius no matter how I drive and/or the outside temperature. But no error codes... My car seems to have a blind fold when it comes to error codes and so on! LOL

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

What does yours show in the hidden menu for the typical temperature range? Mine sits between 79 and 84 degrees Celsius no matter how I drive and/or the outside temperature. But no error codes... My car seems to have a blind fold when it comes to error codes and so on! LOL

To be honest I havent looked in the hidden menu for temperature. but ill check it out now that you mentioned and compare with your readings. Is your thermostat stuck open as well?

But I guess we are 2 now, mine too, blind fold when it comes to error codes

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

To be honest I havent looked in the hidden menu for temperature. but ill check it out now that you mentioned and compare with your readings. Is your thermostat stuck open as well?

But I guess we are 2 now, mine too, blind fold when it comes to error codes

I have no error codes to confirm this, but I presume that it is either stuck open, or not closing properly. I took a vid some months back of the instrument cluster with the hidden menu showing the coolant temperature and most of the time it sat in the 79 - 84 degrees Celsius range, but on two occasions and with no reason the temperature climbed to the high 90's, then in both cases dropped down very quickly to the low 80's again. And this was a mix of town and open road driving, and some WOT. Last year when I was made aware of this issue it was suggested at first to be the thermostat, then suggested that it might be a temperature sensor issue, so earlier this year I replaced both temperature sensors and coolant with fresh since I had to drain, but no change of course - so nothing wrong with those sensors. So it can only be the thermostat that is misbehaving...

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

I have no error codes to confirm this, but I presume that it is either stuck open, or not closing properly. I took a vid some months back of the instrument cluster with the hidden menu showing the coolant temperature and most of the time it sat in the 79 - 84 degrees Celsius range, but on two occasions and with no reason the temperature climbed to the high 90's, then in both cases dropped down very quickly to the low 80's again. And this was a mix of town and open road driving, and some WOT. Last year when I was made aware of this issue it was suggested at first to be the thermostat, then suggested that it might be a temperature sensor issue, so earlier this year I replaced both temperature sensors and coolant with fresh since I had to drain, but no change of course - so nothing wrong with those sensors. So it can only be the thermostat that is misbehaving...

Interesting thakns for the tip...

About a year ago I had my CEL on and read it with TORQUE app and was able to read P0128 i believe which is due to a bad thermostat. I went ahead and cleared it and left it alone since it does not cause any harm. Maybe my MPG is affected but not noticeable. No issues until today. Im planning to change thermostat whenever i replace my WP. Cheers!

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Interesting thakns for the tip...

About a year ago I had my CEL on and read it with TORQUE app and was able to read P0128 i believe which is due to a bad thermostat. I went ahead and cleared it and left it alone since it does not cause any harm. Maybe my MPG is affected but not noticeable. No issues until today. Im planning to change thermostat whenever i replace my WP. Cheers!

Yep, I reckon your fuel consumption might, like mine, be slightly worse on colder days than in summer, but not massively worse. I think your car also has the older MSV70 ECU - LCI got the newer MSV80, just out of interest.

My main and ongoing problem is this pinging rattling noise, but the jury is still out as to whether it is indeed pinging. I am have done a lot to rule out a fuelling issue from injector cleaner to octane booster, different fuel brands (we only have 95 octane unleaded here) most recently I have had a tweaked ECU software running which increases the fuel mixture up until 2500 rpm with no change other than even more fuel consumption of course. I have just had a different software flashed that is more optimised performance and some economy, so will have to see how it goes with the adaptations. I am now leaning more to my original idea that it is a simple rattle somewhere underneath the car caused by engine vibrations. So will have to get it on a lift and examine the entire exhaust system and cats etc for any rattles, heat shields as well since they are usually the cause for typical rattles. It's the not knowing what is causing this noise that has been killing me for so long now! LOL