[Shadow007]

Well tonight I finally tried to flash my car using the Jb4 backend flash, after receiving my bt cable earlier this week, and now my car wont start The solution to my problem is that I didn't use a 30-40 amp battery charger, but instead, I used a battery tender which I thought would be suffice, since it's a constant trickle and that I didn't have a strong enough charger. I thought using that would allow me to my original ecu/ write the pump or race AT flash, but it didn't. I ran the bb flash program and everything went smoothly. I didn't received any errors or anything during the write process, even while using the battery tender. So after the initial write process, which took 1 hour 45 minutes, I uploaded the pump gas flash and once everything was completed I attempted to start my car and nothing happened. So I at this point I was like wtf, it's always something . So then since that didn't work I attempted to use the race flash, in which then my head lights turned off, the panel lights all started to flash, and everything else became very dim, which I thought was part of the whole write process. So after that write, the car wouldn't start again. I went back to the BB flash program and clicked on ID ECU and the module was found but my voltage reading was on around 6v, which then became clear why nothing was working. So my questions are, can I use jumper cables to jump my car since the module is there and hopefully wait until I get full power, or would I need to do a completely new write once I get a strong enough battery charger? I still have my original bin file saved so hopefully that isn't corrupted since I didn't have to proper voltage, even though it did a complete read. Now I'm sitting here saying to myself...If it's not broken don't fix it, which is a very true statement but I've been reading about all the open source flashes and everything else so I wanted to jump on the bandwagon to try it out, but now I'm stuck in this situation. FML

[Miller335]

Not trying to be a dbag just trying to help, did you by chance read the entire Flash sticky from start to finish.

It's alot of reading but I did that the other day and I was surprised how people had issues with flash due to battery/charge issues.

Esp if you have a 2007.
I would read through that again and see where maybe things went wrong and it will have all the answers. There's alot of info with the back and forth replies with people that had issues.

GL

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Get a good battery charger, no point in screwing around when working with the ECU. Then just reload the flash

[Shadow007]

Originally Posted by Miller335

Not trying to be a dbag just trying to help, did you by chance read the entire Flash sticky from start to finish.

It's alot of reading but I did that the other day and I was surprised how people had issues with flash due to battery/charge issues.

Esp if you have a 2007.
I would read through that again and see where maybe things went wrong and it will have all the answers. There's alot of info with the back and forth replies with people that had issues.

GL

I did read it and like I said, I was hoping the battery tender would work since the charger I had wasn't strong enough. It was more of a trial and error type of ordeal and now that I know it doesnt work, its a lesson for someone else Ill buy a stronger battery charger tomorrow and see what happens.

[Miller335]

When I read through the thread I found you need at least 40amps.

How many amps was the battery tender you used?

[Shadow007]

The battery tender was 1.5 amps. I'm going to charge my battery over night and have a friend use his jumper cables as I do a write tomorrow, hopefully everything will work out.

[WedgePerformance]

Hopefully you backed up your original before flashing. If not, you might need to flash it back to stock with WinKFP and a K+DCAN cable. I can hook you up with the software and help you get it restored.

Also, if you're using the BB flash from BB, you need to download the BMS version from N54 Tech before you try to reload it again. I have had nothing but issues with the BB version and where the BB version fails, the BMS version of the BB flash works.

[Shadow007]

I did back up my original file. I'm just hoping that it isn't corrupted or anything due to the voltage drop. I downloaded the n54 tech version which routed me to the BB website where it had the official and tweaked versions.

[CHECKERED]

-Update the JB4 to newest ISO. make sure to set to map 0

-Use the BMS modified BB flash program.

First, hookup the trickle charger(directly to the battery not the leads in the engine bay) do so until the battery is fully charged, (if your trickle charger does not have the capability to indicate if battery is fully charged your charger is complete crap, get a decent/better one) if it takes a very long time to charger your battery (or battery doesn’t fully charge) you need a new battery.

Hook up your laptop to an AC outlet, (NOT using an inverter at the cigarette lighter).
Try flashing your original file (you might have to change the file extension that was saves from .org to .bin).

After flashing remove key from ignition, wait one minute then start the car.
I have a decent battery charger but I’m only using the 2amp setting and haven’t had an issue.

[Shadow007]

Well I'm back in action, after a 15 hour battery charge Click here to enlarge but it was worth it. The car is back and running. I didn't upload a new flash or anything it still held the flash that I put on even during its low battery write, which is why it took 22 minuets. I did notice once I cranked the car up the idle was going ape sh**s, that was until I changed the settings on the jb4 and everything worked smoothly. I don't think I will be messing with any more flashes any time soon. I swear I've been sh**ting bricks the last few days thinking that my car is ruined and all of that mess.

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by Shadow007

Well I'm back in action, after a 15 hour battery charge Click here to enlarge but it was worth it. The car is back and running. I didn't upload a new flash or anything it still held the flash that I put on even during its low battery write, which is why it took 22 minuets. I did notice once I cranked the car up the idle was going ape sh**s, that was until I changed the settings on the jb4 and everything worked smoothly. I don't think I will be messing with any more flashes any time soon. I swear I've been sh**ting bricks the last few days thinking that my car is ruined and all of that mess.

I know the feeling, the good news is you have amazing resources between all of these n54 forums with a wealth of knowledge on this topic. There are even kind fellows who will personally help you through the process! I love forums.

[SaviorXi]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

I know the feeling, the good news is you have amazing resources between all of these n54 forums with a wealth of knowledge on this topic. There are even kind fellows who will personally help you through the process! I love forums.

Agreed. The help and experience i have received on these forums is staggering. I have saved thousands of dollars and I am so grateful. The only thing I owe is to help others with what I have learned.

On a side note about 3 years ago when Cobb first released I tried to flash my car and my ROM was not supported and my care was not operable for 3 days. I feel your pain because I was shitting bricks and really depressed. I'm glad it worked out for you.

[kennyray712]

Having this problem !

[Nitrousbird]

I borrowed a charger when I did mine that was crap. I ended up just using jumper cables to my truck, which worked fine.

[msjt]

Why don't you just flash with MHD? Much easier and faster.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by msjt

Why don't you just flash with MHD? Much easier and faster.

+1

Side question: Is a 3A battery charger/tender enough to for the 38 minute process to flash to a pump flash on MHD? I mean, I already used it and my DME is flashed but my battery is also relatively new. Anyone know if I should return this batter tender that is only rated at 3A?

Thanks

[msjt]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

+1

Side question: Is a 3A battery charger/tender enough to for the 38 minute process to flash to a pump flash on MHD? I mean, I already used it and my DME is flashed but my battery is also relatively new. Anyone know if I should return this batter tender that is only rated at 3A?

Thanks

Just pull the fuel pump fuse and turn off all lights. You'll be fine unless your battery is really on its way out.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Get a good battery charger, no point in screwing around when working with the ECU. Then just reload the flash

And you need an inverter charger. A regular truncated sine wave charger will not be good enough.

We bricked several gauge modules here at work before we figured that out.

We use 35 A inverter maintainers (constant 13.5 V) when doing software updates.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

And you need an inverter charger. A regular truncated sine wave charger will not be good enough.

We bricked several gauge modules here at work before we figured that out.

We use 35 A inverter maintainers (constant 13.5 V) when doing software updates.

Can you link us the one that you recommend, please? Thanks

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

Can you link us the one that you recommend, please? Thanks

Well, the one we use is a commercial unit, avg Joe is not going to buy one. We have s cheap one that is $2k, and the full version which is $15k.

[MightyMouseTech]

Actually using the cheaper one as we speak.

[MightyMouseTech]

http://www.midtronics.com/shop/produ...ttery-chargers