[AlpineSwift]

Forgot to mention I picked up a Turner Motorsport Vent Boost Gauge kit from ar design yesterday. Installed it tonight. Pretty happy with how it turned out despite how much of a pain in the ass it was to install.






The gauge verified what I had feared about the walnut blasting. The white spring in my Tial BOV is now too weak for the vacuum the car is pulling at this altitude and with my plans to go to Vegas for Wuste this year, I definitely need to get the unpainted spring to ensure the valve stays closed at idle. It's staying closed right now, but it's not a reassuring thought looking at the tech chart on the Tial website. Anyone that doesn't have a gauge that has a Tial valve, I highly recommend getting some kind of gauge to make sure you have the proper spring for your vacuum and for tuning purposes.

[135Pats]

What was such a pain about it? Seems like you'd just tap a T to the intake mani for your boost/vac reading, then route it through the fire wall? I'm probably missing something obvious here.

[C.Pop]

Yeah, taking apart the dash, etc etc. It is a PITA. Nice though. I have the ECS version, love it.

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

What was such a pain about it? Seems like you'd just tap a T to the intake mani for your boost/vac reading, then route it through the fire wall? I'm probably missing something obvious here.

Originally Posted by C.Pop

Yeah, taking apart the dash, etc etc. It is a PITA. Nice though. I have the ECS version, love it.

/\ What he said. The pulling apart the trim, routing and tapping the power lines. It really is a headache. The P3 Gauge is probably easier because it's a little less involved. The hardest part was getting the damn lines behind the radio, into the cigarette lighter and up to the center vents. I'm 6'3" and have some pretty large hands so it was a tight squeeze back in there for me. So worth it though in the end. Need to get a mount for my AP next so I don't have to keep fumbling around for it. Had the same problem with my OFT trying to hold it and read the data in real time. At least this gives me a more accurate reading on boost and vacuum without needing to have the AP plugged in.

[e90Mark]

Any drilling involved to get the vacuum hose from the tee to the gauge?

[stanlalee]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

What was such a pain about it? Seems like you'd just tap a T to the intake mani for your boost/vac reading, then route it through the fire wall? I'm probably missing something obvious here.

I read the instructions (see instructions on ECS website) and it scared me from purchasing it lol. Radio, climate control, Nav DVD (2007), lower/shifter console all come out.

[SSW]

I get that the single purpose boost vent gauge is cheaper and probably easier to see/read than the P3 but I'd prefer the P3's more integrated/OEM look, additional readings and easier installation/removal.

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by e90Mark

Any drilling involved to get the vacuum hose from the tee to the gauge?

Yeah. Two 3/8" holes in the left side of the vent channel. Pretty easy.

I remember reading one of the major single turbo guys a while back talking about how he trusts the mechanical gauge more than the digital ones. I can see why he does and it's what makes the most sense to me. It's very accurate and won't be prone to electrical failure.

Pulling everything apart is probably the most time consuming part since you want to be sure you don't break anything. I still think the fishing of the wires behind the radio is the hardest part though.

[Raptor04]

why not just use the boost guage in your cobb AP?

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by Raptor001

why not just use the boost guage in your cobb AP?

Wanted something more permanent and fixed in an easily readable location.

[Raptor04]

would be interesting to see if there's any difference between the cobb and analog boost readings

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Raptor001

would be interesting to see if there's any difference between the cobb and analog boost readings

There would be, of course.

All tuners read boost pressure pre throttle body at the TMAP, which is never accurate unless the throttle blade is open 100% fully.

Therefore the most accurate boost gauge reading would be a vacuum line connected to the intake manifold, post throttle body.

Under partial boost under 5 PSI i noticed about ~2 PSI difference where the tune would say 5 and actually boost was 2-3 in the intake manifold. AT Wide open throttle they should be fairly spot on assuming the throttle blade is open fully but that depends on which tune you run and if you have any throttle closure.

[AlpineSwift]

I know there are differences in boost readings but the vacuum is reading about 19inhg which seems pretty accurate for the altitude after getting the walnut blasting done. Not sure if the vacuum line is to blame here or the spring in the BOV. I bought an unpainted one to swap out with my white one today to see if that makes a difference. Made a quick gopro vid to try show what's going on. Any ideas?

[oshusttoley]

Wow, my bov is open during idle... Uh oh.....lol

[AlpineSwift]

Originally Posted by oshusttoley

Wow, my bov is open during idle... Uh oh.....lol

Your spring isn't strong enough if it's open at idle.

[bigdaddycane]

I bought a used P3 Vent gauge and it couldn't have been easier to install....looks awesome as well.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by bigdaddycane

I bought a used P3 Vent gauge and it couldn't have been easier to install....looks awesome as well.

Damn, I wish I knew. I bought the ecs gauge and have had it sitting around for over a year bc of the relative pia install, I probobly should have just paid more for the p3. Problem is I like analog gauges better.

[SSW]

Originally Posted by bigdaddycane

I bought a used P3 Vent gauge and it couldn't have been easier to install....looks awesome as well.

Have been thinking about buying/installing the P3 for awhile.

The basic install for the P3 looked easy BUT installing the boost gauge line through the firewall into the engine compartment and tapping the charge pipe didn't look too easy to do from the instructions.

Did you consider that easy too?

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by SSW

Have been thinking about buying/installing the P3 for awhile.

The basic install for the P3 looked easy BUT installing the boost gauge line through the firewall into the engine compartment and tapping the charge pipe didn't look too easy to do from the instructions.

Did you consider that easy too?

It's a simple 10-minute job.

Neil