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      05-18-2014, 09:03 AM   #1
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Can wires or Fiber optic wires for relocation?

Silly question. When relocating the stick unit to trunk or glove box, is it the can wires or the fiber optic cables that is required for the dealer to connect to the car? Or do I need both? I have a Hifi system and my Amp is not using any fiber optic cables (I confirmed this). So is it just the bluetooth that is in the MOST loop? I dont have PDC or CD Changer in my car.
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      05-18-2014, 10:20 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
Silly question. When relocating the stick unit to trunk or glove box, is it the can wires or the fiber optic cables that is required for the dealer to connect to the car? Or do I need both? I have a Hifi system and my Amp is not using any fiber optic cables (I confirmed this). So is it just the bluetooth that is in the MOST loop? I dont have PDC or CD Changer in my car.
Both. I believe the head unit converts the most bus into the can bus somehow. I'd use the most cables from the Bluetooth and put a most termination loop in in the dash.
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      05-18-2014, 11:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by bmw325i
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Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
Silly question. When relocating the stick unit to trunk or glove box, is it the can wires or the fiber optic cables that is required for the dealer to connect to the car? Or do I need both? I have a Hifi system and my Amp is not using any fiber optic cables (I confirmed this). So is it just the bluetooth that is in the MOST loop? I dont have PDC or CD Changer in my car.
Both. I believe the head unit converts the most bus into the can bus somehow. I'd use the most cables from the Bluetooth and put a most termination loop in in the dash.
Routing the can wirs to trunk is a pain. I will just extend he fiber optic cable to the glove box or under the seat. Do I need to keep the head unit connected at all times?
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      05-18-2014, 12:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
Routing the can wirs to trunk is a pain. I will just extend he fiber optic cable to the glove box or under the seat. Do I need to keep the head unit connected at all times?
I would splice into the can wires on the connects2 harness using speaker wire or any 2 conductor wire. Steal power, ground, and most from the factory Bluetooth(you can sell the Bluetooth module if you want since you won't be needing it). Use a most termination loop in the dash.

Your way would work too and the headunit doesn't have to be connected all the time, but it can be. You'll have to order some parts from the dealer to extend the most cables. Whichever way works best for you.
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      05-18-2014, 10:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i
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Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
Routing the can wirs to trunk is a pain. I will just extend he fiber optic cable to the glove box or under the seat. Do I need to keep the head unit connected at all times?
I would splice into the can wires on the connects2 harness using speaker wire or any 2 conductor wire. Steal power, ground, and most from the factory Bluetooth(you can sell the Bluetooth module if you want since you won't be needing it). Use a most termination loop in the dash.

Your way would work too and the headunit doesn't have to be connected all the time, but it can be. You'll have to order some parts from the dealer to extend the most cables. Whichever way works best for you.
True. The glove box is too small to fit the factory radio. So it would have to be outside under the seat or in the trunk like you mentioned.

My connect2 harness has been in transit for over a week and the Royal Mail track says it's reached Chicago last Monday. No updates beyond that. Getting impatient here .
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      05-20-2014, 10:23 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
I would splice into the can wires on the connects2 harness using speaker wire or any 2 conductor wire. Steal power, ground, and most from the factory Bluetooth(you can sell the Bluetooth module if you want since you won't be needing it). Use a most termination loop in the dash.

Your way would work too and the headunit doesn't have to be connected all the time, but it can be. You'll have to order some parts from the dealer to extend the most cables. Whichever way works best for you.
As for the termination loop (No. 7 in http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...78&hg=61&fg=15) is all that is needed? or do I need any more connectors along with it? Once the bluetooth unit is removed, do I need code to code out any errors due to bluetooth unit missing? I found the product number on an another posting by Technic (61136917541).

I might keep the bluetooth head unit as when the time comes to sell the car, I can revert my changes completely.
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      05-20-2014, 10:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
As for the termination loop (No. 7 in http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...78&hg=61&fg=15) is all that is needed? or do I need any more connectors along with it? Once the bluetooth unit is removed, do I need code to code out any errors due to bluetooth unit missing? I found the product number on an another posting by Technic (61136917541).

I might keep the bluetooth head unit as when the time comes to sell the car, I can revert my changes completely.
You need part numbers 61136917978 and 61136917541.

Remove $644 from the VO and reset 2urad to code out bluetooth.

You could even leave the bluetooth in place. You should have extra unused most cables in the trunk. You just have to move them around in the MOST distribution block to so they are in the loop.
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      05-20-2014, 12:37 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
You need part numbers 61136917978 and 61136917541.

Remove $644 from the VO and reset 2urad to code out bluetooth.

You could even leave the bluetooth in place. You should have extra unused most cables in the trunk. You just have to move them around in the MOST distribution block to so they are in the loop.
That seems like a lot of trouble. Do you know if makes a fiber optic extension like the attached image? I just ordered the parts to extend MOST bus from Tischer. I only ordered 1 fiber-optic cable but 2 of connectors. I was thinking of splicing the long cable in the middle and make 2 fiberoptic cables out of it using the connectors.. Do you think this would work or should I have ordered 2 separate cables (Just trying to save the $30 for a second cable )?
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      05-20-2014, 07:31 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
That seems like a lot of trouble. Do you know if makes a fiber optic extension like the attached image? I just ordered the parts to extend MOST bus from Tischer. I only ordered 1 fiber-optic cable but 2 of connectors. I was thinking of splicing the long cable in the middle and make 2 fiberoptic cables out of it using the connectors.. Do you think this would work or should I have ordered 2 separate cables (Just trying to save the $30 for a second cable )?
There is a way to cut fiber optic cables, but it has to be done right or it won't work.

Another option is to put the head unit next to the Bluetooth module and move 1 of the fiber optic cables from the bluetooth module to the headunit. Use another fiber optic cable to go from the Bluetooth to the headunit and use a most loop in the dash. I can draw this out for you if you need me to
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      05-21-2014, 10:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
There is a way to cut fiber optic cables, but it has to be done right or it won't work.

Another option is to put the head unit next to the Bluetooth module and move 1 of the fiber optic cables from the bluetooth module to the headunit. Use another fiber optic cable to go from the Bluetooth to the headunit and use a most loop in the dash. I can draw this out for you if you need me to
That is a good option too. I will try this approach instead. I finally did the install last night with connect2 harness and everything. The pioneer headunit is really good. Very fast bootup and responsive.

Although I should say my connect2 harness was a PITA to fit inside the car. There isnt enough room back there and I had to wiggle it a lot to get it in. Also the metra kit is really cheap quality (you were right about this too). It is still not fitting well on the car. I need to find a way to fix it though.

Thanks for all your help. You are AWESOME!!
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      05-21-2014, 11:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metblack328i View Post
That is a good option too. I will try this approach instead. I finally did the install last night with connect2 harness and everything. The pioneer headunit is really good. Very fast bootup and responsive.

Although I should say my connect2 harness was a PITA to fit inside the car. There isnt enough room back there and I had to wiggle it a lot to get it in. Also the metra kit is really cheap quality (you were right about this too). It is still not fitting well on the car. I need to find a way to fix it though.

Thanks for all your help. You are AWESOME!!
I had to do some trimming to get it to fit better. I sanded down a little bit from the top of the dash so I can put the headunit higher up. Also on the bottom of the dash kit where it screws in, it seems like the metra kit is a little too wide for the dash. I'm going to try sanding that down some more.

I'm happy to help I know this can be difficult and there isn't a lot of info on this site, but hopefully it can help others as well.
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